aide

Phil, yep the 16v has a thermotime, but this only controls the cold start valve on start up, usually for 8 secs from below 35degs. If either fails it *can* make starting difficult, but as you note it *can* make mixture over rich too.. And yep, the fuel pump has a built in accumulator to maintain pressure, rest pressure can be tested, but you need the right brass fittings on pressure meter. Ad2408 - getting a 16v to start/ idle can be a real pain, i'd start with the basics, plugs, leads, dizzy and then get onto the injectors, metering head, pressures, cold start valves, thermotime etc... if your a bit of a nerd like me then you can buy books explaining the entire KJet system :) dull but useful

isv is a cylindrical silver thing mounted on the right hand side of the inlet manifold, if you do a serach you should find a few threads re removing and cleaning. the microswitch looks like a small black piece of plastic mounted on an L shape bracket to the throttle body, the small ball bearing should be depressed when the throttle cable is fully slack. there is a test to determine whether this switch is bust, but this requires a haynes manual and a test meter :)

another suggestion for you! no-ones mentioned the ISV yet - give it a clean and check the connections as it could be sticking/ failing intermittently, also check the micro switch on the throttle switch is quietly clicking when throttle is at closed position... if not then you may be occasionally idleing of the idle screw alone which gavin mentions above.

this is my first post in about 6 months but rileys right, co2 is adjusted by a 3mm allan key through a small hole between the metering head and inlet elbow. ideally you should get the incoming fuel pressure set as well, the metering head can be temperemental bit of kit if not set up right!

as has been said above try cleaning the isv first. however, given the problem is occuring when your already warm the problem could lie elswhere... it's a reliable but pretty sensetive injection system on 16v', particularly the 1800, so all has to be set up right

So long as you don't mind waiting a couple of weeks, you can have it for £30 plus P&P as above, my current head is being dismantled at end of month you see!! I've got positive feedback in good saleman thread if that's any comfort :)

you'll pick up a kr cam for £30!! max i'd say, in fact i've got a spare on :) re tuners do a serch on here as never used one myself!! 16vg60 off here does em too i think if you PM him

my local was going to charge £500 for an overhaul as it's pretty involved work for them if i was you i'd find an old 16v head, get it sent to tuners for rebuilding, porting and flowing £4/500 ish, then get your local vdub specialist to fit with new cams, belt etc £200ish IMHO as yours is a two litre you may as well go for the KR inlet cam instead of expense of shrick cams

carpy's dead on, there's three temp senders and the thermotime, it's one of the smaller ones (one halo head other two fish tails) but I don't know which :)

are you certain your radiator fan isn't running all the time?

i'd only put semi sythetic in at most mate, at 125k your valver is going to pretty loose anyway! so, yeh change the oil to thicker stuff, particularly now it is summer (nearly :) The whole top section of the inlet manifold unbolts pretty easily, then you can remove the cam cover and take a look - you'll have it done in a couple of hours.

My 16v has leccy sunroof, but no leccy windows as standard... and the central locking is kapput - got the window kit now tho!

if yours is knackered, then there's one going on ebay..... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 92702&rd=1

i think it's behind the dash... am told they don't go wrong often tho

off topic but, i'm modding a manifold and throttle body at home and was wondering what colour to paint it .. After seeing that pic it's going to be black, looks really well cheers henny!!

sorry, but if you are talking about the blue connector which is fixed to a small cylinder on the side of the inlet manifold?? then all i'm saying is to check it works - disconnect it, and it should squirt fuel for about 8 seconds when you start engine from COLD! if it doesn't work, then the fault could either be the injector (blue thingy) or the thermotime (brown thingy on side of block) which controls blue thingy! If your talking about some other blue thingy then ignore me!!

If your talking about the blue (cold start) connector on the side of the inlet manifold on a 1800 valver, then this is not necessarily mean the injector is bust. It's controlled by the thermotime switch on the side of your cylinder head which has a brown connector plug, it may be this is bust and not allowing current to flow to the cold start when turning from cold. I checked mine last year by bypassing current to it, and seeing if it squirted, I then checked the thermotime by simply loosening the injector from the manifold to see if it suirted for the 8 secs from cold!! Would definitely go to GSF or other as above tho

sorry if this is a little obvious, but you have checked the arm on your throttle is activating the throttle switch when throttle is closed?!

oh right didn't know they had potentiometer jobby, good job ID'ing it tho

by 5th injector do you mean cold start? if so either pull off the blue connector to actual injector, or the brown connector to the thermotime switch on side of block - both should stop it providing fuel. i don't know how the metering head works in a 2 liter am afraid...

your idling of the bypass valve which is why idle is steady... if idle continues to falter with ISV disconnected then it is likely to be a fuelling issue - howsoever caused?!?!

Do 2 litres have ISV micro switch, this controls signal to ISV on a 1800... it's tiny switch on trottle body, with throttle open try depressing the switch - a slight alter in engine pitch will tell you it's operating (should vibrate too) First of all i'd try cleaning the ISV with carb cleaner or similar tho, dirt plays havoc with them Worth noting revs do alter a bit on valvers to help when they're warming up...

Oh, i thought the WUR was on side of block with an electrothermostatic bar in, as engine heats voltage is sent to bar which bends and alters pressure of a thin piston onto a flow plate... the flow plate adjusts pressure to the plunger on top of the fuel distributor leaning of when warm, it also has a vacuum pipe which 'sucks' flow plate back further increasing pressure to plunger and assisting with decreasing fuel flow as engine overuns on vacuum - you can alter these pressure rates by turning allan key and that's all i'm saying!

Thanks Stevemac & Exup Man - it was a pleasure taking your readies :D

yep sorry, what i meant was I'd try to drop the WUR pressure slightly so air flap rises bit easier to reflect better airflow through throttle, with obvious fueling benefits of course :D