aide

it's a 2 litre 9a block with custom throttle body and inlet manifold, polished inlet tract and cylinder head, modded inlet cam with vernier, vsam and possibly 5th injector (possibly NOS too) :twisted: .... i'm going old skool...until i save up for the turbo hope for some decent power in conjunction with other mods

don't you just use an adjustable timing light and set it to 7degs, then time in

sounds quite tinny without the wrap, i'll be wrapping mine once i've got new engine in, am hoping the wrap will dampen vibrations between the down pipe and front silencer :D

yep, your absolutely right! this is my main issue with substituting the OE version for another version, as the manifold plate remains same size. my plans involve modding this section!

nice one, did you wrap it or not?

red 16v, being polished in a lay bye on bangor road on Sunday afternoon... looked nice

Back from hols! Never undid subframe on mine, managed to wiggle it in!

This is not easy, but if your prepared then go for it. Having said that £100 seems fair ish given the hassle it *can* cause! Your right there isn't much room to feed the 4 branch in (assuming it's an all in one jobby?), biggest hassle is removing the old manifold and down pipe - make sure you have spare nuts and the studs because you'll definitely strip some.... be prepared to give em a good soak first too. You'll have to jack the motor to get access from underneath too, and the inlet manifold coming off makes it easier. You might want to consider wrapping the manifold, it removes the tinniness, some pro's say you MUST, others say you MUST NOT wrap..... mine isn't wrappped, but will be soon :D I found the actual fitting a doddle, it was the removal that was a killer... if you want to do the job properly you'll also have to mod the warm air pickup plate to the air box. Feel free to PM me and i'll forward my mobile, tonnes easier than going through it on here :D

even better to give it a bit of a stir :D

yeh henny you got me worried here, i'm rebuilding+ a bit a 2 litre in the garage, and it certainly ain't too warm..... :?: :cry: am assuming you can do the prepwork in the cold and then acclimatise/ assemble in a *warmer* area

There's 3 spade sockets on the connector, get a bit of thickish wire, put a spade on each end and plug and play :D should be two speeds, make sure your fingers are out the way....

thermostat? don't think so mate. As was said above, think you need to get yourself to a dub speciailist, or at least mechanic familiar with kjet.

they'll need to plumb in a pressure guage to check the warm up reg :wink:

Scotts, absolutely right - this reg can cause stuttering acceleration. try and disconnect the gray connector to the warm up reg and see if it happens when warm - this will make it run rich tho - and not a permanent fix. other possibilities is the metering air flap or metering head is sticking, give it a good clean

id' say you have to diagnose as it happens.... why don't you run it till warm in your garage as soon as it happens take a look :D check the basics first - air, fuel spark BE VERY CAREFUL with fuel on a hot engine tho :onfire:

awesome, think the 16vg60 conversion is absolutely wired.... :twisted:

some awesome engines there :shock:

In terms of systems magnex seem to lead on this forum, with miltek and supersprint highly praised too I've got a TSR manifold on my valver with a full miltek behind - sounds pretty sweet, not toooo loud and boomy but good grumble. JMR does a porting job on the OE manifold which have heard work pretty good too. Need to know your car for proper views

All sounds good... :D so you've either enabled fuel to get to the cold start valve, or stopped it over fuelling on start up :D

yeh Henny that's the way i read it too!

i rather like a thick bit of cable than a poxy little strap :oops:

errr yeh that's the one i meant when i said 'engine to the bonnet' :D

hats of mate, that looks ace 8)

you mean the earth strap from the engine to the bonnet then yes, this would cause problems with grounding, and hence sparking

thermostat is on bottom of water pump, you'll need to move the power steering pump which is a pain bridge the thermoswitch with two spade connectors, there's three spade sockets - two speed supply and one earth.