aide

flusted have you had the WUR mod done/ redone? as more air is good but i reckon you'll need to reset up your fuel side of things to get full benefit from the firebreather.

ahhhh so the cynic is converted yeh?!

personally i wouldn't use it, it's not like the damage is off the profile, it's right on the end where valve spring resistance is greatest!

sweet spec and motor.. and sexy looking grille you have their 8)

NG i have both a 2l bottom end and polished cylinder head for sale, if your interested have a look at valver performance parts thread in parts for sale :D

you can try resetting the idle, do a serch on here, but basically get to warm up temp, then disconnect the white spade connector with red and black wire at coil, adjust tickover with brass screw on throttle body to 1000... then reconnect spade connector and idle should even out at that level.

yeh your right should be 1000 +- 50 me thinks, but they do rev high at cold and then drop after few moments.

could be overun valve which opens to provide more air when cold, but closes when warm. it's the roundish thing which forms corner between box and inlet tract plastic thing to throttle. apparently you can test em by putting them in the freezer and valve should open, and taken em out and valve should shut

mine use to do this, it just needed slight adjustment of the back hangers. i've used a big tie wrap before to provide additional support to rubber hangers - works a treat

nope, that is the warm air pick up round the exhaust nice sketch LOL

there's two big pipes into the air box: - 1. a warm air feed as mentioned by coolrado for ducting air from around exhaust to assist with atomizing fuel on warm up - this shouldn't affect running too much 2. the second is an overun valve - on warm up this lets more air past the metering flap and then closes when warm (this forms the characterstic drop in revs after few minutes on 16vs) Depending which bit you drilled will depend what effect it has.

if you did it yourself, have you checked the control pressure and mixture - as these will need to be set up too. re the MFA readings, they're usually pretty balls anyway!

distributor is mounted on the right hand top edge of the block, it should be a brownish cap with four black leads coming out round the edge and one going in the middle - you need to make sure this is not loose, if it is your timing will be out and igniting mixture in your manifold as said above. There is also a small black connector fixed to the bottom of the distributor, check this is not loose too. If the timing is way out then it won't start.

There's a guy on ebay selling them, forget his tag but the company name is lowtension ltd - can vouch for him as bought genuine VDO stuff off him before

AFAIK, and please correct but I think backfires are caused by mixture being too weak (not having enough fuel to burn properly) or too rich (too much fuel to burn air) net result being unburnt mixture gets passsed to your exhaust manifood where burns instead.... as steve said above a hole in manifold would cause idle to vary and make mixture weaker and cause a backfire. I don't know the 2 litre engine at all, but seeings it only does it at idle i'd look at that side of thinks to see what it's doing to the mixture

nah your absolutely right! was assuming bugie would notice something like that when under the hood :D if sticky throttle cable prob wouldn't slip free slowly tho

the revs are supposed to drop quite slowly! ok so throttle is closed, and revs drop really slowly. besides the throttle body idle valve the only other 'correct' way air should bypass the throttle is via your ISV. Though you might have cleaned the ISV, yours could not be working properly. The ISV should buzz/ vibrate when the throttle is closed and the micro switch on the throttle is depressed, if not either the switch, or ISV is knackered - but if the ISV is knackered this would generally result in the engine completely dieing!? The other possibility is your over fuelling, either through bust injector or due to a sticky metering head plunger. unfortunately idle problems are difficult to dignose on valvers - especially on a forum! i'd suggest you get yourself a haynes which describes procedure for testing the systems, and there is other books too which go into detail about bosch kjet systems

sounds like your alternators on its way out, does the light go off when you rev and on at lower revs, did you have lights on at the time? and have you been getting shocks when leaving the vehicle?! but yeh, on dark roads you need lights so needs to be sorted

IIRC the haynes is pretty good, but doesn't mention the fact you have to remove the power steering pump in the thermostat section - you'll need to read two sections to do the job.

could have different causes, you'll need to be a bit more specific! i.e high all the time, don't drop after you rev, drop really slowly etc

basic question, but you did put the leads back on correctly when messin with the dizzy, and didn't mess with the hall sender or timing? assuming its a 16v?

yeh sorry - stupid post of mine, point being it's easier to measure the bigger flywheel/ crank than little awkward dizzy for 1 degree - but then of course you can't get access to do this easily! came accross a post on vortex recently where the guy had lined it up to TDC, counted the number of teeth on his cam belt, divided by 360degs, to get number of teeth to 1 deg, then moved belt by 6xnumber of teeth!!!!! needless to say it didn't work!

NICE similar specs then, how do those cams perform, and have you had it rolling road yet, must feel a shade quicker :D the VSAM unit alters the exact spark timing for running unleaded and acts like a chip in normal sense, it can be upgraded to control a 5th injector to richen mixture depending upon manifold vacuum pressure - apparently valvers run lean at top end

isn't timing measured off the crank, not the dizzy? learning here

beaten again :D