VW_OwneR_85

TY ;) , luckily no other wireing looms were affected by this , just the main section that comes out behind the servo to ecu then to the starter motor etc etc , but yea seems like this whole thing was started by that blue alternator wire years ago, when i was unplugging the engine wireing plugs i noticed one of the wires {blue} being elecy taped up and then being ran seperatly across over the steering coloumn and out through the bulk head , so i traced this back to the alternator, double checked the plug pin out with ce2 wireing diagrams and thats fine, pulled apart the rest of the harness and its clear to see blue melted plastic from that old wire which has burnt through the other wires which wernt fixed at the time and gotten slowly worse. so im putting that down as the cause of this, thing is that new alternator wire they put it had signs of melting/getting hot aswell!!!! so im inclined to say that what ever fault that caused it may stil be there, but with most electrics working fine its hard to say, but atleast you have the headlight fault to start from...

failed clutch? watch this from 31.30 secs

thanks sean!!! it wont be untill monday that i can check it out though,

ah right! cheers

if your door card is off put your hand up inside and pull the latch down , cant remember how tight it is as when i did my door handles {changed to audi a6} i cut out a massive section for access , but atleast then you should be able to open the door. if you open your drivers door on the side your see the box with the latch mechanism in thats where you want to be feeling but on the passenger side, theres two tabs which poke into the door space one tab opens the door and one tab locks/unlocks , thats the tab you want to be fiddling with..

so on the block it would have dots and then numbers?.. , jim ill have another butchers tomo but just to the right of alternator above the crack pipe thats where it has 2.8-2.9 theres also a number in rust but im fairly certain it isnt the engine number as it doesnt match the number thats written down on my log book for my old engine , my old engine according to zee logbook is ABV007793 , this number is none existant on my 12v unless its been changed but i dont think it has as my 12v still has the sticker on the cam cover , guess i better get myself under the corrado and hope theres enough blady room to search for that number on the 24v

Nope its not there either!! wtf! theres a nice flat bit of metal which looks like the perfect place to put it but nothing! im starting to think this engine number on the block is a myth for some production vr6's, i know you have the sticker on the cam cover above the aux belt tensioner with the number on but thats no longer there, i need the engine number to put into the log book as i swaped the engine over, im tempted to just put BDE ... edit - i also phoned a vw dealer and gave them the chassis numbe of the car it came from but all they can get from that is the engine code...

thanks matt, deffo not there on either of the vr6's i have though, thats actualy the first place i looked aswell :( just saw an image on google of it being below the chain tensioner bolt, will have a look tomo!!

ok bud , if you want to scratch your itch to piant something,then consider this , flash red is a solid colour so you dont have to do it with basecoat paint {basecoat requires a clearcoat} , if you have an old panel or an old wing or bonnet just to test this out i recomend you watch paint videos on youtube on "colour sanding"} then wash down your wing/bonnet with warm soapy water , dry it then panel wipe, then sand the wing /bonnet down with 600 wet or green scotch pad just to get a good key , and then use this stuff , mix it up to what it says 2:1? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-2K-ACRYLIC-CAR-PAINT-COLOUR-FLASH-RED-CODE-G3E-1-LITRE-/390385641138?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item5ae4cc26b2#ht_2164wt_801 and roll it on, let it dry for about 2hours then roll another coat on, then same again , then wait 24hrs or more and flat the whole lot back with 1500 wet with a nice block then buff back to gloss , if you do it right it should come out prety damn good!! its worth trying , especialy on a bonnet , you wont be spraying it into the air so health wise you can use a cheap spray mask , and you wouldnt need to splash out on spray guns or air supply , you just have to work alot harder with sanding, when i did my first spray job it had so much orange peel that i might aswell of used a roller but i wetsanded it all back and it looked prety damn sweet!! it wouldnt cost you to much to test it out, ill post up some pics in a min of my first spray job this is metalic black basecoat with a 2k clearcoat, look on the left side , see how blury it is, thats orange peel , prety much the same texture you would get from a roller, and it still flatted out good, buffed with g3 compound ps i have since learnt not to use diy power tools when finishing clear coats also mask the car up when doing buffing like that , its much easier to keep clean :)

need some help on this , i cant find it for love nor money!!, iv looked all over my old vr6 and i can the 2.8-2.9 stamping/ moulding above the crack pipe but cannot find the engine number, i actualy need the one from my 24v but im going to assume there in the same location..

what colour is your car?, is it metalic?

is there anyway you can safely drive it to try and wear in the pads? maybe early early morning when nobodys about? i had this problem when i replaced my rear mk4 calipers+pads, it slowly went away in a couple of days , im putting it down to the disc pads needing to wear flat to the disc's ...

if the rust is soft then theres deffo a hole, you want to get this cut out in the shape of a sqaure then a new sqaure welded in its place then painted, if you just leave it then the hole and rust will get bigger and maybe even cause electrical problems when the water starts comming in and start causing your inside to get damp etc etc

that carbon bonnay looks very noice!! i might have to treat myself to one of those later on ;) good luck with mot..

haha this took me quite awhile to figure out when i was doing my conversion , i was like "fk these plugs are tight!!" then i had a closer look and seen the locking tab/bar :)

na that wouldnt be considered prolonged use, but deosnt mean your safe for that one time deal ! theres so many variables for example "extraction and ventilation" without them you "probably" would be over exposed on the first spray job useing cartridge filters depending on how much your spraying, for example a full size van in a small room with little ventilation is no good!! a small bumper in that same room wont be anywhere near as bad. the better the ventilation the better air flow means your mask filters dont have to work as hard, the vapours and overspray would get pulled straight out introduceing clean fresh air into your area , is your mask tight fitting around face? might want to consider haveing your beard chopped for a better seal, if you treat this stuff like its actualy going to kill you then your be fine for that one paint job , for diy if you want to do it, tackle it in stages, dont bite it all off at once, do the wings one day then the bonnet seperate, do the bumpers on another day , do the doors on another , and do the shell in one go on another , this way your keeping chemical exposure down, and any problems that may occur will be easier to fix on the go..

also painting isnt as easy as it might sound, fact is unless you give it ago you will never truley understand it, people just think oh yea quick car wash a quick sand down and spray some paint job done! , so so wrong! every imperfection has to be removed before paint with sand papers,fillers and primers, this itself is time consumeing you also need to use the right grit sand papers with a nice hard straight sanding block, look down the side of your car , you might see slight waves or slight dents, these would be straightend out dureing the filler/primer stage useing guidecoat with a sanding block if you just keyed the paint and sprayed your colour ontop then them waves or stonechips/imperfections would still be there probably look even worse, even after paint you still have work to do, not so much for the body shop guys as the spray booths do more then just keep the area clean, they remove overspray {also paint vapours} with large extraction fans so there exposure to the chemicals would be less then the diy'er, this overspray in a diy enviroment might settle on top of your newly laid down clear, also dust nibs are a nightmare but they all can be fixed by wetsanding and buffing,you just need to apply enough material to allow for wetsanding afterwards, just means the diy guy has to work harder,

from what i gather you can safely use a filter mask with 2kpaints and alot of the yanks which have been in the trade 15+ years still do, the problem is isocyanates are odourless and cartridge filters dont last forever so theres no way in knowing when the filter is fully saturated with the chemicals, so manufacturers protect you and themselfs by saying air fed is the only way wiht 2k paints, which is true becuase it will protect you! if the filters fully saturated you will never know you could be breathing it in, its not like breathing smoke where you will have an automatic reaction to it, and from what iv read the damage is irreversable to your lungs! , if your going to use a cartridge mask use nothing less then 3m's full face! the amount of overspray that i get on my mask lense which would of otherwise gone into my eyes is quite alot! and isocyanates can be absorbed through the skin and eyes!!, do your home work on this! and make your own judgement,

yea what david said, read up alot! materials and sundries are expensive so you dont want to be doing it twice!, dont waste your time with rustoleum stuff, ebay = how to paint car dvd, youtube = how to spray car, how to blend car paint, how to block sand filler/primer, it isnt the colour which determines if it needs a clearcoat, its the type of paint you are useing, if its a "single stage" paint then it doesnt require a clearcoat for its gloss and u.v protection, however single stage paints only come in solid colours not metalics so your limited with colours if useing this type of piant, { Also the word 2k/ 2pack means two componant or two part , it means the paint needs two parts for it to work , 1st part is the paint 2nd part is the hardner, you have 2k clearcoats,primers,and topcoats,fillers, glue etc etc, the single stage paint will be 2k} if your useing the modern "two stage" basecoat/clearcoat then you need to have a clearcoat on top of the basecoat {basecoat = the colour coat} for its gloss,UV protection and durability/hardness, basecoat can be made up in what ever colours you want! solid colours metalic pearls etc etc , if your car has been in for body repair they more then likely would of used this type of system to repair it, your clearcoat on this could be 1k {doesnt require a hardner} or 2k but i highly recomend you use a 2k clearcoat as its more durable and your get better gloss,

g11 isnt made anymore , g12 was the new g11 but its been updated to g13, {g12 and g13 are compatable}, think the update to it is just its more friendly to the enviroment?

just use the genuine vw/audi g12/13 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-1-5-LITRE-BOTTLE-VW-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-G12-G13-COOLANT-ANTIFREEZE-/200924304099?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item2ec80592e3#ht_1042wt_1088 seeing as its prety much the same price as that comma stuff,

dont walk away , i can offer help, but im not exaclty an electrical expert, what exact problems do you have? by the sounds of it the wireing harness on that side is just an absolute mess? have a look here @ A1/05 on the left, i think thats your red wire, A1 is one of the yellow fusebox plugs, the 05 means its pin number 5 on that plug, http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html i would say dont get another wireing loom, if you did get another loom you would still have to remove your old one, so if you want to go down that road you might aswell remove it and remove all the old loom tape {black wrapp} and check the wires indivdualy and repair them as and when,

just had a crazy thought, hang that up on the garage wall!! not that exact one but ,like with the door and the rest of the pillar intact, tail light, front wing, wheels, bonnet and bumper section etc etc ! you could actualy make it look like its sunk into the wall! i would sooo do this! best thing is it wouldnt take up much space and would look absolutley Sick!!!

sweet cheers for that,