VW_OwneR_85

get some pics up,

the way I see the cooling system is its similar to a house heating system with flow and return pipes, check for kinks in the pipes, I don't have an aux water pump as the wiring isn't there for it , instead I used a piece of 22mm copper to join the pipes together, my cooling temps are really good! from what I belive the aux pump only works after the engine is switched off to help circulate and dissipate the heat quicker? not entirely sure but you deffo don't need an aux pump, yea your need to connect the blue/white vss wire from pin 54 up and then it will lift the rev limit, just make sure its not the blue/white pedal wire which is directly above it ;) well I drove my car for quite some time today with plenty of stop offs and the pedal didn't fail on me once!! still early days but its looking like there was a wiring problem in the harness with the pedal wires, as i didn't strip out the harness completely i will never know! maybe the blue/white vss got crossed with blue/white pedal wire back when the loom was getting made for the swap, i know these wires got made longer so theres a chance it could be that...

ill get some for you but it sounds like you need to do exactly as what 20vtvw did otherwise it will mess up your alignment of the down pipe to the rest of the exhaust system,

yea try your old vr6 temp sensor, the 24v oil temp sender might not be compatable with the 12v clocks? not sure though, I used 12v stuff on mine also when I fitted my engine I didn't touch the mounts, I looked at what needed to be done to the bonnet and I decided it was easier to cut a 45 degree wedge out of the inner bonnet brace , it actually looks quite neat, it doesn't need much removing as its just the drivers side front corner of the inlet manifold that hits, so were talking a piece not even 5" long, if the bonnet ever needs a repaint then to make it look oem ill weld a plate on the end of the wedge and smooth it/paint it, I had a play with my DBW pedal fault, I opened up the harness and re routed the 6 pedal wires from the main harness and ran them separate from the ecu plug through the accelerator cable hole, also re connected the vss wire back to w-1 as it wasn't rev limited when previously connected, so now I know 100% there is no breaks or crossed wires in the dbw circuit, new dbw pedal in the post so im going to drive it like it is and see if the dbw fault appears and if it does switch to the new pedal!!! and then hopefully carry on where I left off sorting out the rest of the car :)

possibly the oil temp sender is telling porky pies , either that or its wired up wrong, hesitation could be coil pack? also what was it like starting from cold or hot? possibly coolant temp sender for ecu causing a running issue? get vcds from ebay and your be able to scan for logged faults from your laptop and your also see what temp reading the ecu is receiving in relation to what your temp gauge is saying,

I used vr6 oil pressure sensors, not sure if theres a compatability problem, good to hear your vss is ok, just pulled the dbw pedal out and now noticed that the number from etka doesn't match the pedal I was given! I specifically told the breakers that I brought my BDE wiring harness from that I want the same pedal from the same car as my wiring harness! the number I have on this dbw is 1J27 215 03C ,I cannot find this exact pedal on etka under golf4motion, its not listed here either http://seekpart24.com/vw/golf-iv-variant-1j5-99/2-8-v6-4motion-10718/accelerator-pedal-102801 if anybody can confirm that theres a compatability issue please let me know, otherwise im going to assume its the pedal at fault all this time! strange why its taken so long to appear at fault though. well according to one of the compatability drop down menus on an ebay listing for my pedal , it is not compatable with the 2.8 v6 4motion!!

cheers but sadly its not my problem, I double checked the wires today and I made no mistakes with the pedal wire or vss wire, although that would explain how 20vtvw lost his pedal as the blue/white pedal wire is directly above the blue/white vss wire so could be easily mistaken, only thing different is the vss has a slightly thicker blue strip, so my problem is either a duff pedal or the wiring from ecu to pedal has been crossed at some point, I would like to remove my harness and run through the pedal wires but I think to save time its easier to identify them at the T121 ecu plug and then chop them there and rejoin them routing them through the old accelerator cable hole, that way I know wire for wire is 100% sound even though I was sure they were in the first place, thanks guys looking through etka on the dbw pedals the difference between the mk4 models seems to be automatic,diesel and petrol, the pedal for manual petrol is 1J2 721 503 J

16885 -P0501 = Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance., although when the vss was connected up and the pedal died the 2 fault codes logged then were 18047= pedal pos sensor 1+2 range/performance 16990= ecm/pcm processor im going to stop clogging up the 24v thread now ;) , any admins feel free to delete my vss saga ,unless you think it may help others, ok I think I know what I have done!! im just looking at the wiring diagrams for the throttle pedal that go to the ecu plug , one of the 6 pedal wires is coloured WHITE AND BLUE! the same as the vss wire!! I did triple check that it was pin54 when I snipped the vss wire but you know stranger and stupider mistakes have been made! before, im really hopeing that's the problem!!!

it was the other way around bud , his throttle wouldn't work with the vss connected { to w-1} I just double checked with my inbox messages to confirm, heres one of the messages from 20vtvw "Hi I'm good thanks,,when I connected that wire I lost the pedal completely,,I spoke to united Motorsport and they said that as part of there re map they raise the rev limiter to get around the vss problem,I was going to do it that way "

cheers taks and dil, today the throttle started playing up without the vss connected!! its the first time its done it, so im seeing this as a good thing , atleast we can now throw the vss out the window and start again, although its strange how 20vtvws throttle went dead after connecting his vss, im going to scan the ecu either tonight or tomo and hopefully there be something to work off, im guessing it will go like this > replace pedal-or trace throttle wires back to ecu and see if anything was bodged/misplaced. thanks....

"so my assumption would be that w1 is fed from an output of the clocks" - could your clocks be causing you issues? " yea I belive your assumption to be right, not sure with my clocks though, only evidence I have to know that they are working ok is the old 12v vr6 was fine in that department, also thinking about that relay 109 , I think I can rule that out because if it was relay related stuff would of happened regardless of me connecting up the vss, cheers for your time... edit just noticed - "One of us will report back on the exact impact of this if any after Weds, but on out initial testing it hasn't shown any faults" ok cool , would appreciate that, on initial testing of my vss everything was fine , idle'd and drove beautifully, like I mentioned in my posts above I needed to stop off some where mid journey for 20-30mins and only then does the pedal act up, I could straight drive the car fine {max time of about 40mins straight no engine off stops, this fault never appeared on a straight drive}, at first I thought it wasn't related to the vss as it was some time after I had made that connection but then I realised it only happens if I stop off somewhere for a period of time, hasn't happened since cutting vss wire I put in..

your insurance policys will allways have cover to pay for damages against someone else's car or to some one walking on the street or the gates of Buckingham palace weather its 3rd party or fully comp that's what insurance is for...

Yea that's how I understand the vss to be aswell,so on early mk2 golfs that w-1 wont actually be there as the early clocks don't have a vss feed for it, also on the original vr6 engine harness you have the blue/white wire for the vss to ecu on w-1 on a single plug, thing is when my 24v vss is hooked up to w-1 it sorts out the rev limit, so it works as it should its just in return it gives my throttle pedal an intermittent fault after a stop off anywhere mid journey so its almost like a temperature related fault? as its fine if started from cold, without the vss hooked up I can drive it 24/7 happy as larry with just the 5.5k rev limit, seeing as another forum member also had this on his AUE im starting to think that on some 24v models that it expects a different kind of vss signal? not sure , ill view the vss signal on vcds measuring blocks and see what it says in relation to my actual vehicle speed :) im wandering if relay 109 could be to blame? iv since renewed it for the newer updated version so I might have to reconnect the vss lol I think ill put it on a switch haha saves me snipping it everytime cheers..

in regards to the "how much does he charge for a blow over /respray" posts, in car body and paint there is never a set price list, its not like a Chinese take away, it all depends on what condition your paint is in and where you go, in which case anybody giving you an accurate quote would have to inspect the car in person, if you send pics it may help your cause, but if your serious about wanting a real quote and not just a time waster let them see the car in person....

mk1/2 golf fit straight in, mk3 seat rails need to be moved by cutting and re welding, imho don't waste your money and time with seats from other models, I fitted mk3 golf leather front seats and it completely changed the way the car felt for the worse, took away the sporty low feel , not to mention my head was almost touching the roof liner! the corrado seats are lower then your normal seats so fitting any other seat is like sitting on a booster seat!,

thanks for your reply, which 24v have you got?, so you basically just cut into one of the three wires from the speed sensor of the gearbox? seeing as my car runs without fault {only 5.5k rev limit} without the vss wire hooked up that's telling me things like throttle body,pedal etc is working correctly? , if anything was at fault surely it would appear with the vss disconnected or connected ?, I think my next step would be to reconnect the vss wire back to W-1 {as my wires right there} and view the vss via vcds and see what it says there, thanks.. yea I posted up in my thread awhile ago explaining that I was connecting up the vss and the guy who you brought your loom from {20vtvw} did the same as me, although it stopped his pedal dead! but it didn't stop mine dead, at the time I could drive my car for a straight 40min drive with it working fine the whole journey which is why I didn't notice any faults after I connected that wire up, I didn't think it was related to the vss wire I put in, but then I realised the pedal will only act up if I stop off some where mid journey with like a 20-30min stop off, after that the pedals intermittent as buggery!, the reason im thinking this is rare/un heard of, is because everyone else that does this sort of conversion uses the help of tuning companys after its installed and has a remap, if mine had a remap to raise the rev limit I wouldn't have throttle issues as I wouldn't need the vss signal which is killing my pedal, I have the BDE 2.8 and im pretty sure 20vtvw's is AUE ? so these two models have throttle issues when vss is connected to w-1 , we know that much! ,

I have gotten abit further with my throttle pedal issue and I can safely say its 100% related to the vss wire I tapped in, as the pedal has been absolutely faultless with the vss wire I put in disconnected, iv been using the car almost everyday. I cant find any solid reasons as to why the pedal plays up when this wire is connected up though, has anybody viewed the vehicle speed signal through measureing blocks on vcds? does it just say your current speed? , I asked the company that makes the mk4 ce2 plug n play harness about this and this doesn't seem like a common problem, although they did tell me that I can switch the ecu from manual transmission to auto transmission via vagcom and that removes the 5.5k vss fault!!! anybody know about this little trick? , one theory is when I connect the vss wire up , my ecu is then working as it should! and its detecting a fault with my pedal, I don't like that theory!! lol, although that is a cheap and easy fix if it is!

any questions inbox me as I may not return here, http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=81421

if you slowly ease the brake pedal down and keep it down ,{I mean very slowly applying light pressure pushing abit harder the further it goes} if the master cylinder seals are going then the pedal will eventually hit the floor as the fluid wil pass the seals, if it doesn't hit the floor then the seals are sound, I thought my master cylinder was on its way out but my pedal wont hit the floor....

they both need pressing in, I used a 30mm socket that's slightly shaved to press the smaller one in and to press the bigger one in I used a piece of 1 1/2" steel pipe ,

I have a miltek catback with decat pipe, not to loud but it does liven up under full throttle ,

its far better then the 12v imo, I wouldn't want to swap back :) the first drive you will notice straight away how it makes the car feel more alive, you slowly get used to it though. the exhaust note is awesome! havent got board of that yet ;)

looking good sean!!! keep it up..

I remember a few months back helping a m8 swap his over to my old one, had the same problem but it either just pulled out or twisted out? cant quite remember but we deffo didn't remove the cam cover or inlet manifold or anything like that, getting it back in how ever it needs to locate on a lug i think and only goes on one way , sorry I cant be of anymore use , hopefully someone will clarify

Yo! I know some one that should be interested in this, going to let him know, any rust issues with this panel?