VW_OwneR_85

yea it would be the same as vac leak , shoddy idling, rough running, depends on how much air is getting past the maf sesnor without being measured

iv got mine to do again, and yes about the glue! over the months my seal has shrunk back on itself leaving me with a nice 1/4" gap at the join, so will be refitting it and glueing it in place this time, thanks for posting up on how to remove the just the panel , the only way I knew how was to drop the whole sun roof from the car , right pita by yourself and completely unnecessary ;)

im going to be repairing both of mine fairly soon, I think the best way to approach this would be to repair both the ones you currently have rather then buy another set of wings which will probably need paint attention anyway, "is a rusted arch easy to repair?" it all depends on how bad the rust is, is it all visible from the outside? i.e needs to be painted body colour again, can the rust be sanded out back to clean metal without effecting the strength of the metal? does it need a patch welding in? , all these factors effect how hard or how much time/money it takes to repair it. best bet would be to remove both wings and go to a few local bodyshops and get quotes , prices vary from place to place so don't just go with the first quote you get unless your happy with that.

I don't get how this problem would only happen on hot starts, surely it would happen from every start, more so first thing in the morning/when the cars been idle for long enough for the pressure in the line to back into the tank..

try cleaning the MAF sensor or using someone else's that you know works 100%

complete stab in the dark here but maybe temp sender related causing over fueling?/flooding when going slow? hence why it wont start after for 5mins, I wonder if un plugging the temp sender might get you out of this temporarily? worth a shot... was it fine when starting and running from cold? only started happening when up to temp?

yea that bearing thing wasn't there on my BDE 2.8 either,

I had the same problem awhile back , I bled everything! inc abs & master cyl bleed nipples, with two different pressure bleeders, vacum and a regular pressure bleeder off a tyre {the best one imo} in the end I gave up on trying to make it feel better and just drove it, gotten used to it with the brakes working fine, I also had a noise which came from the ABS pump upon initial start up {kinda like a starter motor noise} which didn't occur if I held down the brake when starting, so every time I started up I would hold down the brake pedal, doesn't do that noise anymore, im assuming air was trapped in abs pump which has now been slowly pushed out? not sure but my brakes work fine, pedal isn't rock solid but im sure that's how these are...

rubjonny http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?234432-Rubtechwerke-wiring-services!

im currently half way through doing mine in black faux leather, its looking really good although im having problems with the adhesive im using , need to peel it back and use something else as its peeling around the curves in the sun visor areas,

idd say that's normal but deffo check your fans are working, don't just start the car and wait though, your be there for ages, go for a drive get the car up to temp and pull over into a car park then you can stand by the car and wait, iv got the lower temp rad fan so my fans kick in abit sooner then standard, ignore the aux water , I don't have one.

mic vr, I do have a wiring diagram but its not with me and I don't know when Im gona be there , iv just looked on the wiring page for 1.8T's {should be the same for us} and there tach signal wire is green/red T121/81 ,T121 is the bigger ecu plug of the two , 81 refers to pin number 81 on that plug, so unplug the plug and snip the cable tie on the plug and unwrap some of the loom tape to expose the wires and pin locations on the backside of the plug, use this pic to find pin 81 and find out what colour yours is, if its green and red then snip it leaving enough to play with so you can extend it and re route this wire from the ecu plug into the cabin {also mark with masking tape the other end of that wire that you snipped so you can re connect it easily if needed, you now need to connect this wire to one of the white fusebox plugs G1 PIN 12 , use this link to help find plug G1, its of the fusebox and its plug locations/pinouts, if you scroll down to G1/12 your see ..http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

as in 2.8? or 3.2? if its the 2.8 same as mine then its just a case of connecting a wire from the ecu to the fusebox plug {g1/12 I think it was, as my loom guy made that connection} , pretty sure all 2.8's are the same in that respect possibly the mk4 3.2's aswell, maybe someone can confirm

which 24v you got? my 2.8 BDE is wired in the same as 12v vr6..

I did mine with copper and new flexys, was an absolute pig of a job but its easy enough to flair and bend the copper,you pretty much just have to cut the pipes going to the bias valve flush with the fittings and then push the pipes out the way, this allows you to use a socket on the fittings rather then a brake pipe spanner, slide new fitting on the 2 pipes from the engine bay and flair them,

scanned ecu today, im happy to say no faults were found :) so happy about that, so looks like the wiring is now 100% complete. that ecm processor intermittent/no communication fault Im 99.9% sure was because the brake/clutch switch wasn't connected , I belive if you don't hook up the vss and you havnt already hooked up the clutch/brake switch then it wont throw up the processor fault for the brake/clutch switch, your only have the fault for vss until you connect it up then the ecu searchs for other info A.K.A the brake/clutch switch, without the vss connected the ecu thinks it isn't moving so as soon as its connected up it needs info from clutch/brake switch makes sense to me .....

good info J.C , Yea its deffinatley a smoother gear change changing up, before it wasn't to noticeable but it was a tiny bit {wouldn't say jerky as such} pokey! in up to 2nd , up to 3rd ,4th was normal though, still need to scan it for faults but iv been driving it everyday and its still sweet, no throttle pedal problems or anything , Im hopeing now its 100% fault free , the only thing i want to sort out soon is the PAS fluid, my pump whines like mad once its warmed up, it was 100% sound before i drained it for the conversion, replaced it for genuine vw/audi stuff , iv looked at the fluid and it had red stuff in it originally, but looking at the fluid now its nether green nor red lol,

its been more then a few days since I hooked up the clutch switch and brake switch,1st into 2nd gear does feel slightly smoother, other then that it kind feels the same as it did before which is a good thing, going to scan it when I get a chance and hopefully its fault free :)

scanned the ecu this evening before wiring up the clutch and brake switch, one fault found 16990 p0606 -004 {ecm processor ?} no signal/communication intermittent, im guessing this is because of no brake & clutch switch. just need to swap over the actual brake switch and plug it in and reconnect the battery + test drive which I will hopefully do tomo if its not raining, now I had that fault {or one exactly like it} when my pedal went funny. also since re routing my pedal wires + changing the pedal wiring plug my pedal hasn't given me any problems what so ever, so all is good with that :)

pull one of them off and measure the ID, you can then get the equivalent size braided brake fluid/fuel rated hose + clamps from ebay,

ah mine does this, well the mfa resets itself when you switch engine off , thought that was normal lol , the only info I use off it is for oil temp , would be nice to not have to scroll through the others every time ;) will check fuse 21 and report back

its easy to check top mount bearings, whilst stationary with engine running {for PAS} just turn left and right full lock , if its the bearings then you will know as they couldn't care less weather you are moving forward or backward, may help to have a person stand by the top mounts/suspension at the time listening out, if it only clunks when your on the move then report back...

nothing else , vw built the gutter/drains so your interior wouldn't get wet they knew a seal alone wouldn't be enough to keep the water out, as long as these are working as it should then just replace your seal as it sounds pretty shiddy, the only way I know how to replace that seal is by removing the headliner and dropping the sun roof assembly from the car and then you have all the room you need, I think you can get away with removing just the sunroof panel though not sure on that , either way I would recommend dropping the headliner and after you replace that seal don't fit the headliner until you have given it a good water/rain test as it will allow you to pin point any leaks...

yep the seal just finish's it off it does add some water proofing but its the gutter & drains which keeps your interior dry , if you want to know 100% exactly where its leaking from then remove the headliner and sit in the car while its raining or have some one with a hose running water on the roof or pour water from a cup/pint glass etc etc! I recently found mine to be leaking from the plastic gutter into the sunroof mechanism track and then onto the headliner which is rare...

if it hasn't been coded out would the ecu recognise this as a fault?