VW_OwneR_85

I got p1553d with mine a few weeks back , I thought idd spend a week sorting out the rust on my wing , at the same time found an oil leak coming from the chain caseing , then spotted grease all around the inside of the drivers side wheel! {cv boot split} ah! I wasn't happy!! as the wing repair took a lot longer then expected , plus then had to strip the front end +inlet manilfold to find this oil leak, then order new seals n stuff from vw, then spent a day sorting out cv joint , had to remove the driveshaft as I couldnt get the room to hammer off the cv joint, covered in grease :( wasn't the funnest part of corrado ownership that's for sure!!

ah sux buddy, come back to it , iv never really had a problem like this but I would say its worth replacing the temp sender for ecu as that does influence fueling and you did say it back fire once upon start up then died? over fueling/flooding? , might be worth unwrapping the wiring harness in the bay {maybe remove inlet manifold to aid this} and look for breaks/problems in any wires, or remove it from the car completely and then re wrap it with nice new loom tape. good luck!!

im 98% sure he can but he will need to use his inlet manifold + throttle body on your engine, the other thing to notice does his engine have a distributer or coil pack? , if he has a dizzy then that will need sorting to run coil pack or swap his dizzy on to your motor , never done it so cant comment on if or how .

air pressure is what holds the tyre in place, if you had a wider tyre then it probably wouldn't of popped off the bead the way it has there, unless im missing something here like the side wall has blown out? ,

you put in new brake lines, copper? , make sure fluid can pass through them, a flared joint might not be finished properly causing a blocked pipe????

awesome work timbo ;) upol gravitex , you need to apply it using a stone chip gun via air compressor at around 50psi

I made mine out of an old mk1 golf bonnet for metal, removed the old cassette holder and used that as a template then cut holes using a holesaw and trimmed it in faux black leather , used sticky Velcro that holds it in place,

engine conversion isn't straight forward as such and I wouldn't recommend you paying someone to do it for you unless your happy with the price they say they can do it for, your better off just replacing the engine like for like and renewing things like timing chains and guides, thermostat housings/distribution pipe, clutch etc etc which you should also do if you went ahead with an engine conversion, I done the 24v swap myself last year its not overly hard especialy with the help of this forum and the internet but I would not pay some one to do it, I think the Passat v6 isn't a vr6 like in the golf/bora , its mounted the other way in the engine bay ,anyone confirm??

the filter is housed on the front of the engine above the sump to the right of the dipstick , you have to go from under the car to access it , the housing is plastic and also has an allen head screw bolt at the bottom of it , this is a drain plug so you can remove the fluid from the filter housing before removal of it if you wanted to , you need a fairly big socket to undo the filter housing {your see the spanner flats at the bottom} also make sure the filter goes the right way around , just go under the car and look and all will become clear.. edit : didn't see your post fendervg

if it is stuck open that just means that your cooling system will take longer to get up to temperature, think of it like a domestic central heating system with all the radiators turned off ,the boiler {engine} will heat up a lot quicker then with all the rads on but it will eventually get up to temp with or without the rads, does it take awhile to register any heat? idd say the senders at fault seeing as your oil temps are a lot higher,

yes you can bin the aux water pump if you wanted too,

carbon fibre roof skin would be perfect in this situation ;)

yea I looked at the top 2 tensioner guides and theres hardly any wear into them surprisingly, im replaceing the hydraulic tensioner though as that seems rather rough to compress and has wear marks on its shaft {ohh errr}

cheers si, the head gasket is intact and nothing missing, iv searched through a ton of pictures of bare vr6 blocks and heads and on that corner there seems to be a coolant passage and not oil so its safe to say that its pretty much impossible {nothings impossible but you know what I mean} for the head gasket to leak oil like I was suspecting with mine, but yea im goning to order new seals for it and clean it all up and re seal :) , I was prepareing myself for timing chains + guides + new clutch but don't fix what aint broken is now my new motto ...

no there different to mk3

yes I have if you click on my name you might come across my thread in the members gallery for pics of it on the first 2 pages ?, you will need to remove the door, sadly the way vw designed the door pins/hinges the hinges are not easy to press out ,you will need to replace the pins along with the half hinge as that will also be worn {it has a bush} get them from ebay same as mk2 golf, I used a ball joint spliter {the one that you tighten with a spanner} to press the hinge pin out , heres the pin's http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOOR-PINS-NEW-FOR-MK1-2-GOLF-JETTA-SCIROCCO-PASSAT-SEAT-TOLEDO-/360764326499?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3AGolf&hash=item53ff3ac263 cant find the half hinge though, its the piece which bolts to the door ,

hi guys, noticed an oil leak the other day on my 24v 2.8 , so decided to have a butchers today , with next to no room to look I whipped the front end off along with inlet manifold and thermostat housing as it seems to be coming from the upper timing chain cover but there is oil dampness on the front right corner {right next to the timing chain cover/thermostat connection} of the head gasket which ties into the oil dampness of a possible weaping chain cover , is it physically possible for the head gasket to leak from this area ? or is it more then likely coming from the chain cover and running along the head gasket and then down the front of the block??, iv removed the chain cover and it wasn't sealed with any gasket or sealant so im hoping its that , thanks....

if you don't have any luck with getting a bonnet then> , remove bonnet from car and apply a paint stripper {starchem synstrip} and get the bonnet down to clean bare metal then hand over to a bodyshop, aslong as you hand it to them the same or next day then rust wont start forming and a lot of the prep will already be done!! with it being black they shouldn't need to fade out into adjacent panels for a colour match unlike other colours , give them just the bonnet! as they wont need to mask up and deal with an entire car and could be fitted in between jobs, this will be the cheapest way I can think of, good luck

ah I had a feeling that was like a 2 into 1 jobby wasn't sure though, didn't realise the mk5's only have one pipe, have you tried getting fuel with pipes not attached to this filter?

yes the rears can be done without a press but you need the right size socket to hammer the new bearing races in, get a new abs ring {as mentioned above} and new bearings + disc +pads and caliper wind back tool.. used a steel pipe for the inner bearing

when I scan my ecu I switch ign to on and wait until the throttle body stops being noisy {any sooner and it says cant connect etc etc}then click on vcds/vagcom select mk4 golf/bora from the menu and scan , seeing as your throttle body is making noise then it wouldn't be the wire that I was stuck on, maybe worth checking the ecu earth wires, use this pic and make sure the lives and earths are right using a multimeter, this photo was the sole reason I got mine working! I had some one do my loom and I couldn't get fuel or spark it was live wire 21 that wasn't hooked up but my loom guy didn't have anything for that wire!! so if I hadn't of found this pic I would of been very very unhappy! btw without that wire you cannot scan the car and your throttle body doesn't beep at all so you don't have that problem by the sounds of it,

I use relay 109 for my BDE 2.8,, its to do with the ecu earth trigger, think with relay 32 you don't need the earth trigger wire from ecu,so try relay 32 like he said, yea with the buzzing noise its more of a long BEEEEEEEEP and that's a good thing :)

I honestly don't think you need to worry about that yellow/black wire, if in dought trace it back to where it ends in the loom and then your know for sure, when you switch ign on do you hear the throttle body buzzing sound? ,this is the problem when some one else does your loom {as I found out} if something doesn't work your pretty much on your own with it unless that person can come to you,

yea your right about the colour cap for the colour fluid, iv just recently realised this, mine does have a red cap but reading up here about pas fluid everyone points to the green stuff which is why I used it in the first place, also apparently vw no longer make the red fluid so green stuff must be safe to use? cheers dave, just seen your post ,

hi all, my power steering used to be really nice! then after the 24v conversion {had to drain pump + new fluid} when up to temp the pump would squeal under pressure and generally feel like crap when doing slow tight turns i.e 3point turns, fine from cold though, I thought this was due to the heat from the down pipe even though it has heat wrap so I heat wrapped around the rack and made no difference and after looking abit further into it the new pas fluid {green} has mixed with the old red fluid that was still left in the rack so my fluid is neither red nor green! iv since drained it out best I could and turned left/right to drain the rack further and replaced the fluid again with more genuine green stuff its slightly improved but still pretty crappy when up to temp, im going to drain and replace the fluid again in the hope that it flushs all the old red stuff out, seeing as it only gets crappy when up to temp im thinking this is because the fluid is getting thin causing the pump to squeal, iv seen PAS leak stop by lucas for vw's which is supposed to thicken the fluid for old pas pumps which would probably solve my problem, anyone had my problem with the two fluids mixing? don't want to keep wasting pas fluid but seems like my only option right now... lucas leak stop http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWER-STEERING-PAS-RACK-LEAK-CURE-for-VW-CORRADO-/360364776352?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item53e76a1ba0