VW_OwneR_85

remove your sender, get a small file or sand paper and smooth off the bottom face that seals against the filter houseing, the part numbers are there and will become visable, never know that may also stop your leak, theres also special sealing compound you can use for the threads, dont use ptfe tape as apparentley that stops it earthing,

well after hours of hunting down the wireing problem {an un connected ECU live } the beast fires up! just need to tidey up the loom and replace a few perm lives for ign lives add a few wires here and there and bobs ya uncle i'll be the proud owner of a 24v corrado ;) running like crap at the mo, need to feather the pedal otherwise it cuts out, so stoked on it starting though :) little vid

Well after much ball ache iv find an electrical gremlin!!! , lets hope its the only one! it now starts! wooo!! pin 21 which is a live of some sort basiclay ended in a ball of glue which holds the wires together, so hooked it up to battery positive and boom! the throttle blody starting adjusting itself so i quickly fired it up and it did straight away! so just need to work out where to wire in pin 21 permanantley then its all good! thanks to rub jonny for helping me find this bugger!, this pic helped.

looking sweet! i remember seeing pics of your down pipe on edition, realy nice job with the flanges , i took a different approach at doing it, cant belive you done alll this outside under a gazebo! thats dedication!

argh still on the hunt for this electrical gremlin! , had the loom out and peeled back all the loom tape and checked all the earths and lives and so far everything seems good, i changed an ign live for a perm live and that allowed me access to the vcds lite menu, where as before it said interface not ready, well i can start to scan for faults and it looks like it would work but nothing comes up, im starting to think my ECU is footu! which would explain alot! edit : just a thought i have an audi a3 1.6 and my m8 has an audi 1.8t are the ecu connections the same? i.e could i plug my 2.8 ecu into either of these cars to just run a scan to rule that out?

yea under the mounting point is fine, but your going to want to remove the cross memeber so idd put the jack under the sump and then remove the bolt {17mm? } holding the front engine mount bracket to the big rubber mount and then jack up the engine until you see the mount bracket come up a few mm and then you can un bolt the cross memeber and remove the rad support along with it knowing that the engine is supported at the right height, idd look at replaceing the rad temp sender for the lower temp one while your there , awesome sell them, ill try and link you

well its almost there!! havent filled the cooling system yet, just ironing out some wireing issuses at the moment, hopefully be sorted very soon, cant wait to hear it running!,

cheers for that, but i should still be able to use diagnostic port which leads me to think its something else ,

i had both fuel lines open in a bucket as i replaced the fuel filter i wanted all the air out the system before connecting them so i know its an electrical issue thats more then likely something wrong with the loom installation :(

not sure but the fuel pump works if i remove the relay and bridge the connection with a wire but doing so the abs light stays on? everything worked as it should before so its wierd why its not now, also tryed useing the diagnostic port but it says interface not ready, and lists a few possible causes , like no ignition power , prety sure im not getting a spark either as i removed a coil and then cranked it over but couldnt see any, found a pic of the mk4 ecu plug showing lives and earths so im gona check them , so so close !

support your engine via a jack and take the weight of it slightly, and then remove the bolts on the ends of the cross memeber holding it to the chassis legs and it should just drop down , just drain your power steering fluid out and disconnect the hoses before that tho.

guys got everything plugged in as it should be and im getting no fuel, checked my perm live and ign live with volt meter and there sound as a pound, any ideas ?

heres the gap that needs to be made up, pedal finished, well almost ;) i know some people have said how sensitive these pedals are especialy in 1st gear but i wonder how mines going to react now with it being alot longer then stock might calm it down abit. downpipe heat wrapped and bolted up engines back in , hopefully for good this time! gear cables connected , clutch slave cylinders in, got the brake servo and the clutch master cylinder back in {damn what a f-kn tight fit that is!!}, and the pedal arms hooked up, found out that them two pedals sit slightly lower then what i used to measure up for my DBW so as a result my dbw pedal sits slightly higher now,!! DOH! just need to chop 3/4" out the bar and re weld it , hopefully have my rad support panel back tomo from sand blasting , LOL im expecting a shed load of holes .

yep wouldnt want to know the hours that gone into that! must of taken days, looks prety sweet tho!

right had a butchers, it seems adding a 12v supply to that valve actualy closes it!! i took the whole thing out of the pipe work and blew through it the same as what the petrol pressure would and it takes abit of pressure to go through , not much but abit, yea think your right with it only operating at certain points, but now knowing that the valve will release pressure once it builds up im not to bothered , im just going to get a little filter for the end of the pipe that would of been connected to the inlet manifold and tuck it out the way, it will basiclay vent itself when it needs to as opposed to removeing the valve completley and haven an open pipe, have a look your see what i mean just rigg one pin to earth and the other to live on a battery and blow through the same way,

im going to hook them two pins up tomo to a battery and see what happens to the valve , if it stays constantley open then im hooking it up to an ign live and just going to leave the tank vent open to atmosphere,if it works it will only be open to atmosphere when the car is running which is alot better then what others have done which leve it open 24/7 . come to think of it, the mk4 must have a carbon canister of some sort right? so im guessing it comes from the ecu?

well getting there ,heat wrapped the down pipe the other day so thats ready, haha been playing auto electrician the last couple of days, lmao!! had to get into the most awkward position possible to be able to see the plugs on the back, took me 15 minutes of pure struggleing to realise that the plugs are "locked" in place by a bar! , lol i was like, surely these plugs cant be this tight!! , had to prety much re arrange the whole loom and make certain wires longer , , takes awhile especialy when your triple checking every wire you do, brought myself a blow torch soldering iron, i use the bare flame and its Mint!! i use it with thin plumbers solder , then use heat shrink wrap ontop, organised mess!! , the new ecu position, just goning to use a hot glue gun or some adhesive and bond the ecu to the bracket whn its in the right position, so made the adjustments in the loom , and loom taped it up to just past the brake servo and plugged it into the fusebox, just got an ign live to connect up and hopefully electrics wise inside the car should be done!, the plug for the dbw pedal is there ready, just made a start this evening on the brakcet for the pedal ,dont know how other pedals are but mine is going to need chopping and re welding with an offset put in to bring it to the right a few inchs, need to source a bracket for the diagnostic port aswell, its new home heres the plate im gona use for the pedal , just need to trim it here and there and drill some holes, hopeing to bolt it in with the 2 bottom bolts from the servo. gona use counter sunk bolts put in from behind the plate and tac weld the heads into the plate so its just three studs that the pedal bolts to , and then offset the pedal bar to bring it up and at 100mm center to match the old pedal

yea congrats man! i hope to be feeling some of that goodness in the next few days, just a thought with the carbon canistor, if i hooked one pin up to earth and the other to ign live would that keep the valve constantley open when ign is on? or is there more to it then that?

what have you guys done about the carbon canister and aux water pump? apparentley aux pump feed comes from the mk4 fan controller, also traced the wires back from the carbon canister and they go to the vr6 ecu otherwise if they had went to fusebox it would of been happy days, i dont fancy haven an open petrol tank vent so is there anyway to get this canister valve to work? i know theres a guy on mk2vr6.com that removed his aux pump as he also didnt have a plug, so i might just remove the aux pump altogether. cheers

i started learning with plain c02 and come to think of it yea i think it did last longer,when i went to get more gas i got given argon co2 mix and i actualy thought something was wrong as it was welding different lol , but i love the way argon/co2 welds its so clean and perfect, cant remember the last time i used just c02 tbh so i might have to go back to it, dont read into it , do it lol , it took me around 8hours of play time to actualy get comfortable with mig welding and thats something reading wont teach , when i first started out i was so nervous lol ,so get practiceing way before you actualy start your awd beast! started prepping the wireing today , LOL took me like 15minutes to realise that the fusebox plugs are locked in place!!! i wasnt happy! crammed in the foot well with a mess of wires! arghhh!! ahwell its a good experiance eh ;)

made a start on prepping the wireing today, my new modified loom doesnt seem to have the plug for the charcoal canister valve , i traced the wireing back on my old standard corrado loom and the wires seem to go to the ecu! so whats the crack with that guys?

went to do mine yesterday , blady 13mm bolt { it holds the clip for the bush?} is rusted and rounded off, so need to weld a socket on or some thing, i had the axle stands on the flat sections of the sub frame so the front was in the air and used 2 jacks one either side of the car and jacked the body up and away from the subframe , think this method should work..

cant afford the mk4 setup ? the rear calipers are so cheap its almost stupid not to, just to confirm you are wanting mk3 brakes along with changeing your stud pattern from 4x100 to 5x100? which means buying new wheels to suit that,

one 24v conversion down pipe :)