VW_OwneR_85

basiclay 1k is 1 componant meaning theres only one part to it, cellulose paint is 1k as its just the paint and doesnt need a harnder for it to set, its not the stuff you want, 2k is 2 componant so theres 2 parts to it and yea its benefits are harder wearing also the 2k clear coats dont get affected by U.V raise either so no colour fade and doesnt get affected by solvents, once a 2k paint is hardend you could wipe it or drown it in thinners and it wont affect it unlike a 1k paint which will melt away. yea 2k primer and 2k clear is deffo the way to go!. solvent base {your colour coat} is 1k and deosnt require a hardner, it just needs to be thinned down useing the correct thinner to a ratio of 1:1 , this paint method , {2stage} will be what the body shop would use on your car, 2stage because it requires 2 , 1st stage = basecoat, 2nd stage= clearcoat. A.K.A clear over base, there is a single stage system but you dont want that as you want to match your old paint, basicly single stage is 1stage and thats a 2k colour coat which doesnt need a clear for its gloss {hence 1stage} , but will fade over time and its not available in a wide range of paint codes, think its just solid colours so not suitable for modern cars, basicly forget cellulose altogether its just a different type of paint, you could put a 2k clear on top of celly and get a good looking gloss finish but you want solvent basecoat not celly.. your bumper sounds like a good starting point, start off by giveing it a blady good wash down with hot soapy water and then once its all clean you can start sanding back all the imperfections like lacqour peel etc , use filler if needed and then sand back with the help of the guide coat and then seal it all down with the 2k primer and leave 24hours for it to set and cure fully before guide coating the bumper and then you can start to sand that back start with something like 320 and then move up to finish with 600 grit paper untill your happy, if theres areas your not happy with , fill and reprime if needed! , remeber to use a nice flat sanding block and sand useing an X pattern so you go with the contours/curves of the bumper, once your happy that the primers done, give it a wash down, let it fully dry!! and then use panel wipe , let that flash off {solvents evaporate} and then your ready for basecoat, apply your basecoat, your want 50% overlaps , meaning if you spary a line your next pass should overlap that line by 50% , { just search you tube for paint gun technique} give each coat 15minutes to flash off before adding another coat, add enough coats untill your colour is acheived, then add clear coat after 45mins but no longer then 24hours, if you make mistakes in your basecoat fix them before adding the clear, just wait for base to dry and sand out imperfection and blow over the sanded area with base again, or if your mistake is prety bad just wipe the basecoat all away with thinners and blue paper towel, once you add the clear theres no going back for an easy fix, ah yea here you go http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=5&sid=8e1e0a589f5470054625804d67bb38d5

when doing sanding to get your work straight , like filler's and sanding primer before colour use a guide coat, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-pol-S2004-Dry-Guide-Coat-Aerosol-450ml-UPOL-/110655893356?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item19c39aef6c you want no sanding sratchs harsher then 600 grit on your primer before colour, otherwise they will show through, heres an example of useing a guide coat, it reveals all the low spots which need to be worked out, bonnet primed and then lightly sprayed with a guide coat ready for sanding out imperfections like orange peel, halfway done you can see low spots around the left windscreen nozzle hole, your also need this stuff to keep your work clean http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Can-Tetrosyl-Panel-Wipe-Pre-Paint-Wipe-Surface-Prep-/360484981272?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item53ee944a18 your want solvent basecoat mixed to your code, like this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2L-Solvent-Basecoat-Paint-BMW-317-ORIENT-BLUE-/300550651710?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item45fa36ff3e cellulose is old news and thats the same stuff thats in spray cans, iv heard waterbased isnt ideal for diy use, think its got something to do with needing a temperature controlled enviroment, also a moisture trap isnt enough to stop oil + water from passing through your gun, cant find the link but devilbliss make a filter which skrews straight on to the 1/4 male thread on the gun, deffo worth buying!!, theres so much more info but you just got to learn as you go , learn on a scrap panel first and try your best! another reason to use a 2k primer , it basicly insures all your hard prep work, all the prep work is from the primer and whats under the primer , basicly solvents cant attack 2k { 2k = 2 componant} so if you make any mistake applying your basecoat , like you get crazy runs or loads of dust falls into or like me i had contamination from oil from the compressor , you can just wipe the basecoat away with thinners even if its dry , so you can start again fresh from your preped primed surface :)

with the time and dedication not to give up if something goes wrong you can get the same results as a pro, you just need to work harder after paint to remove dust nibs from the clear, what colours your car? i'll recomend you u-pol system 20 for 2k primer and 2kclear as there hardner can be used with both, only use a 2k primer as it wont react with the solvents in the paint you put on top, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2K-PRIMER-CAR-PAINT-U-Pol-High-Build-Beige-1-33lt-kit-/390025288140?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item5acf5199cc you want the primer colour as close to your car colour as possible, 2k clear , but dont buy the 5L tin as you wont need that much , they do them in 1L tins aswell for like £15.00 mixing any paint you want to use the clear plastic mixing cups which have the ratios written on the side so theres no guess work , i.e for a 3:1 ratio you pure your paint up to the 3: mark and then pure your harnder up to the 1: mark job done!, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PACK-50-CALIBRATED-600CC-POLYTHENE-MIXING-CUPS-/360482372435?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item53ee6c7b53 , then once your paint is mixed and stirred in the cup you use a strainer to filter out anything that might be in the paint useing these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paper-paint-filters-strainers-125-microm-UltraFine-x50-/110742772127?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item19c8c8999f by putting the strainer directly over the paint pot on the gun heres the important bit! dont skimp out on a mask! you want this with organic vapour filters which are brought seperate, in a proper paint booth the vapours are filtered out fast! in a diy enviroment its very dangerous! so your deffo going to need fan extraction of some sort along with the correct mask, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-6000-Series-Full-Face-Mask-Respirator-6800-Medium-/251137285412?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a78f2dd24 its realy not worth the hassel of having breathing problems or possibly worse death by asfixiation, the paint vapours can cause a gel coating over the lungs, wont happen same day and basicly it will stop your lungs from absorbing oxygen so your get asthma like symptoms but your be able to breath full lung capacity so its not like asthma

i recentley had my loom out for my engine conversion {loom not available sorry}, to remove it from the car is abit of a nightmare because of the way it goes into the cabin in the tight space so the brake servo and master cylinder needs to come out , if i was you i would just un wrap the loom tape back from the plug and trace the wires back as far as you can and hope you find the break in the wires in the engine bay and not past the brake servo, its easy to repair the wires so i wouldnt bother paying a specialist £50 + an hour to solder a few wires back together, auto electrical wire+ solder+ heatshrink+ loom tape = under £20,

do any of you guys have the red plastic covers on the wireing to each ignition coils? , mine are black and i want the red ones, by the looks of it there just clip on covers, if anyone has the red ones would you be so kind as to read the part number on the top of them and pm or post up the number ..thanks heres what i mean, wow just check out the price! i bet these from vw are actualy 1/8th of the price these guys are asking! http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-R32_MKV--3.2/Maintenance/View_All/ES261145/

your rears are more like et 15, they stick out exaclty like my borbets,

lol how come theres a speed signal to stereo? the faster you go the louder the volume gets? haha

damn that sux man, i like the fact your staying in the game by buying the 3.2 though :) just a shame, i can only imagine what it must be like haven to go through all that, i recently done the 24v swap and if it siezed i dont think idd be replaceing it this year! its one expensive hobby! but i guess you can just sell a set of them wheels you keep whoreing haha

yea nice one, good reading that is..

tint spray on ebay , the new red will never match the old red, you lightley spray the old red lense aswell to match. if you want a decent finish it should be cleared with a decent 2k clearcoat and that will protect it against UV damage/fade and give a nice plasticy glossy finish. cars looking good O.P!! also not a fan of 17's on a rado...

lol would fitting a small smoke alarm in the bay be going to far?

everyone has different opinions on what a "modified vehicle " actualy is, anything thats been changed that didnt come with the car can be classed as a modification right? but surely if this law comes into play there has to be certain mods which will be ok.. like body mods for example, i.e smoothing, as that effects nobody but your own wallet! so how can it be justified that your car gets made illegal because your toweing eyes been smoothed off!! doesnt make sense! so there has to be certain classifications of modifications! i realy think they would be enforcing bhp mods like turbos and superchargers etc etc , either way its bull 5h1t!! as you can just go out and buy a more powerful standard car if you had the money anyway!! , you guys already got MOT so thats the road worthyness test done! just glad i dont have to be too bothered by this as living in the channel islands were not governed by your road laws..fingers crossed it doesnt happen!

my 2.8 pulls hard from 2000 upwards , so nice haven that low down torque, also about the vss wire, on mine its from ecu plug pin 54 then that wire needs spliceing with wire on fusebox plug W/1 , might do this over the weekend, have you guys had your emissions stuff removed from ecu ? or just immo defeat? iv had immo,emmsions and sai removed so that probably makes a difference

i love it, its perfect for where i live, our island has a realy crapy speed limit and you cant realy drive around on full throttle/ up in the revs for long,its like start stop start stop around town kinda driveing , so for me im not disapointed at all, some guy on vortex was saying "oh get ready for the drop in torque" and im thinking what? are you mad? clearly only saying that because hes heard it on the internet, well you say about low revs and planting it, just change gear earlier then what you would on the 12v no? i still need to get my vss hooked up as the rev limiters kicking in at 5000rpm because of no signal so i havnet been able to go past 5000rpm , and tbh i dont think i need to :) still gona hook the wire up but just enjoying it right now,

my gauge reads low by 10 degress, a new temp sender didnt sort it out,

cool, yea i told my m8 about it and he said exaclty the same thing about cutting a V into the rubber, atleast its nothing new then,it happened the other day and i just thought i didnt clip it down properly even though i was sure i did! after i pushed it back on it was fine for the rest of my trip but then the next day it kept popping off every 30 seconds! after the engine was warmed up, oh anyone here useing VDO oil pressure gauge ? just wandering what the normal running pressures are?, cheers..

cheers mr Bacon :) anyone had any problems before with a coil popping off the spark plug when the engines warmed up? spark plugs tight and doesnt seem to be leaking, its a none genuine coil so iv orderd a genuine one anyway, just wandering if this has happend before? ..

i also have vcds lite but it still brings up the error code so just write the code/s down and use this site so you can read the code ;) http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/vw.dtc.table.htm

cheers dude, yea sound drop it off next week :)

Ah cheers quicky, ill let him know about that, swapped over my lambdas today , so that the brown plug is nearest the passenger side, no more fault for reversed lambdas :) also got my temp gauge working yesterday aswell, i had only gone and mixed up the earth wire from the sender plug , {another thing i had to add to the loom} so just one more fault about the vss and then jobs a gooden! iv been informed that i need to splice the vss wire from the ecu plug to W/1 on the fusebox, looking at the ce2 diagrams this is correct as its for the speed sender, , but looking at the BDE diagrams the ecu plug has two vss wires! so not sure what to do there?! before & after :)

yea man deffinatley well worth it! its alot more driveable especialy where i live, you need that instant grunt!..

been driveing it the last couple of days, just getting used to it and getting to know the engine {wierd as it sounds} iv got two new faults which werent showing before but doesnt seem to be affecting the performance, one is the a fault for before cat lambdas reveresed! lol how the hell does the ecu know that? the other is for the vehicle speed sensor, now a guy on mk2vr6.com has done this conversion and has a problem where he cant rev past 5200rpm , united motorsports has replied and says its possibly down to the ecu not getting a signal from the vss and the rev limiters kicking in because of that so it looks like im gona need to sort that out aswell, united motorsports can remove the limiter no problem so thats an option, thinking about spliceing a wire off the vss to the corrrect pin to ecu although im not sure if that will affect the speedo reading? , otherwise its so nice to drive, im realy stoked on the out come of this conversion the difference is night and day!, and the sound imo kills the vr6! hands down, everytime i change gear and release the throttle you can here the inlet manifold doing something almost like a subtle dumpvalve and the exhaust tone is obscene with the miltek decat but the main thing is the instant acceleration! its there! LUV IT!!

good idea that, even if you went through water it wouldnt do anyharm and it would just drain straight out, yea my sump has that plug too, not quite sure what that plugs for , possibly something to do with the casting process which leaves a hole?

same here, i left mine off, no big deal imo

took mine for a little drive today :) :) :) :) :) very very happy with it and mines only the 2.8 BDE ! can only imagine what the 3.2 must feel like, the sound is beautiful! makes the car feel lighter as the power just comes on, feels like a completley different car, so this is deffinatley a worth while conversion!shame the weathers turned to crap right now,