Hofmiester

I should add then while it was cheaper in cash to buy the charger and frabricate......I must have spent 20 hours researching and trying things out. So actually my kit cost a lot more in man hours

The cost of this is comparable to new Vortech and Rotrex kits. Rotrex is not really a true price as you also have to lower the comp and consider the clutch when upgrading due to the turbo like performance. 2nd hand charger kits are always cheaper though, the issue is finding one. Mine was also a lot cheaper than this but I had to buy the charger and then fabricate everything else. Luckily MB motorsport can fab aluminium and is pretty cheap for the skills and Vince is there for mapping.

Left over from my 288 conversion. Included in sale: Callipers Carriers Brake pipes Disks and pads (only covered 5000 miles, lots of life left) One calliper has already had the piston removed as I was going to replace the seals. You will need to buy a new seal in order to use them (about £6) £40 the lot, local pickup only or could meet if Nr by. Ron

Did this GB fall through then?

Yeah calm down mate, obviously just an oversight. Thanks for posting the pictures, they look crackin! What camera and lens are you using?

Bits arrived today! Thanks Andy

It was kind of post rain moist, but never used to break loose like that before i cranked the belt. I actually had a proper look at the belt tension last night and if twisting it in the section between the PAS pump and the crank pully, I can just twist 90 degs with my finger and thumb so I dont actually have it that tight. It must have been really loose before as I managed to get the charger to slide on the adjuster by a good 4-5mm, next time I will learn to tighten the belt before going on the RR :bonk:

Ah well, no worries. It is here if you want it.

The colour coded flat piece is part of the entire slam panel that is the frame that the whole front end is attached to. Not a big deal but more work than just a trim piece. I have one in Dragon green, a little rust in the areas that would normally be around the radiator but nothing you can see when on the car and that a good wire brush and some rust cure wouldnt sort out. You can have it for free but I am in Newcastle upon tyne and I wont post it as it will get wreaked and it's too much messing about ;) Let me know Ron

Also, are the rear seatbelt guides the upper ones where the belt passes through by the seat back release, or are they the ones where the belt passes through the door card? If they are not cracked then I'd take either type as all mine are buggered ;)

Would the non adjustable steering cowling fit on an adjustable upper cowling? I have bolted my steering rack to be fixed and so want to dicth the adjuster knob. If it would fit then I'll take it mate.

And

Think it's safe to say the belt ain't slipping anymore, got some video footage of my journey home......fun times :D [video=youtube_share;doXWCThDX6A] I might need that LSD after all

Cheers Kev, I was expecting 250ish so 230bhp was not miles off considering the belt slipping. With its performance now on the tightened belt it feels like it could well be 20bhp more ...but everyone keeps saying "that should be 300bhp" but I think they get mixed up with Rotrex as the only V9s I have found on the Vortex doing those kind of numbers are running over 10psi I will be keeping my eye on the belt tightness, seems to just keep stretching. I get it tight and then a few days later it needs cranking again. Dont want to screw my bearings though and that is why I've been a bit of a soft lad on the tension ;)

LOL, yeah well my fear is that I'll go so tight that I'll bugger the bearings which is always an issue with the vortech chargers but so far I can almost twist the belt 90 degs and it isn't making any grinding sounds so I think its ok ;) Before it would feel flat from 4000-5500 I would get a boost reading of 3psi at just over 4K but it would stay at 3psi to 5.5k and then suddenly shoot up to redline and hit 5psi. Took a video on my way home from the RR day last night. You can see the boost sitting in the same place for ages between 4-5.5k and then shooting up. Now it is making boost from about 3.5k and I'm seeing 3psi at just over 4K and then it builds in a linear way, no pause and needle is steady. Hits 6psi at about 7K Feels strong compared to before. Really need some rollers to be sure though. Nice to meet you Ben and it sounds like you've got an interesting project planned for sure!

Took the car for a good spin today with the belt tensioned to *F tight Power delivery seems to come in a little earlier now but the main difference is how much it builds, feels fuller and hitting 6psi just as the revs get into the red on the gauge. However still doesn't feel 30-40bhp more? Maybe 15-20bhp and a better, fuller delivery. Anyone know what a V9 stage 1, Miltek catback (cat still in place) should make? Here are my graphs, the areas in Red are where Vince was saying the belt is slipping. Was only hitting 5psi but I still think 5psi would make more than 230bhp. Shame Stealth isn't nearer or easier to get to for me, ideally need to find a tuning solution up here. [ATTACH=CONFIG]76182[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76183[/ATTACH] *F = Infinately tight, also known as "F*cking tight"

Well.....at least it wasn't your car that got towed home mate :)

Great day out, thanks for organising Jim and very nice to finally meet a lot of you guys in person. I managed to make it home in just over 3hours! Just in time for tea we my kids. Gutted with the result I got but makes sense as I've never felt that it was that quick and was a bit disappointed with the charger set up overall. The car would be quick sometimes and other times seem like nothing was happening. Looking at the graph, my car gets to 4500 and then the belt starts slipping all the way up to the redline but worst at 5k.........band is jaggedly all over the place and that explains why the boost gauge needle is always shaking as it comes on boost. Took Vince and John's advice when I got home, got a massive pry bar out and cranked the bugger tight, managed to move the adjuster a full 3mm which is a big amount of slack in the belt. I suspect that as the setup is all new, the belt is still stretching out. Not had a chance to run her again now but I am really hoping this will bring the performance I was expecting. John was saying that while vortech say 90 deg turn in the belt, they mostly slip at that, and so you need to crank them as tight as you dare. Mine will now reach 90 but only if I am really gripping it with something other than my dainty designers fingers.

My Corrado feels heavy compared to our MK2 fabia (very light) My MK7 golf has variable/customisable steering that you have presets for but can also delve into without needing VAGCOM. Sport mode on the golf is just about the same as the Corrado when moving. The difference being that it is lighter when parking but the C is bloody heavy when moving at low speeds.

hmmmmmm twitchy :)

That isnt true, it does come on and still does in modern VAG cars. There is no sensor, I have a MK7 golf with heated seats too. I think what you might have experienced is that when nobody has sat on the seat to push the leather/fabric against the elements, it often doesn't feel very warm. Then when you sit on it, everything is compressed and the heat transfers better.

If you are going to the RR day, I'll take em?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1996-BMW-728I-AUTO-SILVER/131026995260?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D2208123929573913439%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D181238600667%26 Looks like the 7 series may be a good one, cheap to buy, massive and probably good to drive. I'll likley donate the car at the end anyway so buying one that is cheap due to bad bodywork but has sound mechanicals would be the best bet.

Not many SAAB 9000 around these days and looking on ebay, £500 wont cut it! No vento VR6s around anymore either, 2 on ebay and almost £2000. SAAB 93 or 95s can be had for less than a grand though. Bigger engine BMWs dont sell for much these days either by the looks of things. I think looking at 15-20 yr old cars is no good (Vento, Saab 9000) as all the crap ones are scrap for parts and the good ones are getting decent money as a classic. The sweet spot for cheapness is 10-15 years. Plenty about still but not desirable yet. X reg, Y reg etc http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1997-AUDI-A4-1-8-RED-ESTATE-/331050772854?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4d1429e976

http://www.specialeffect.org.uk/twin-town I work in the games/entertainment industry and a few of us are pulling together to participate in this charity rally event as a company team I'd love to do this in a Corrado but to be honest, they are not that great at the £500 mark.....mostly breakers ;) Any thoughts on good reliable cars that can be had for £500? keep in mind we're doing some big miles and also going on some race tracks so no fiestas please ;)