P3rks

If I remember correctly the earths are different between the engine looms, meaning the points they connect to on the large multi plug will be different.

Even if payment is sent as a gift it can still be reversed. All the paypal account owner will say is that the Paypal account was hacked and they didn't authorise the transaction with their bank. All that will happen is you'll get the funds, even if withdrawn from paypal and cleared. Then Paypal will just put your account in minus and claim the funds back, through legal channels if need be.

I have a working ABS pump for sale?

Yep, the Corrado (2.9) has different cams, the rest of the head is the same, valves, springs, tappets etc etc.

Nope, like I say, straight swap. I bought the head all done so I've not touched it. Wouldn't know where to start for what and where to buy. I bet others can help?

Hello, All UK 12v VR6 heads from Golf MK3's and Corrado's are interchangeable. The late heads, OBD2 onwards have an extra oil channel for the cam sprockets and chains, but that doesn't effect the fitting. The very late heads for the VW Sharan, Ford Galaxy and US models (possibly on the continent too) have an extra port on the front for a SAI; which can simply be blocked off. But as far as casting and part numbers go they are the same. As you say, dizzy to Coilpack is just the timing cover. For the record I've done loads of research, plus the head from my car is a 1993 Coilpack, I have a used head from a 1997 Golf, a brand new head from a 92/93 dizzy model and a brand new head from a very late 98 model with a SAI port; I can confirm they are basically the same other than the changes mentioned. I've even had a UKAS vernier caliper on them all to confirm. Hope that helps. P.s. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=84824

No it doesn't. It's almost impossible getting it out with the dash in place anyway.

I use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a screw driver attachment. It just fits. Get half way with it then do the rest by hand. Pain in the arse.

A Ferrari F50 :norty: Muwahahahahahhahaha! Seriously though, http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=55058 - Don't wanna turn the thread into another chatty topic so all questions there.

Selling my hoard of coilpacks (3x). All are Beru and in fully working order and tested (in the past hour). No cracks or sparks/arcing, even under the water mist test. Only selling because I've bought a Bosch Motorsport coilpack. £50 each. Located in Sheffield for collection or can post at cost (£6).

Sold to Portent :)

Ok Jim Bowen, you're 2nd in line. I'm waiting for Portent to reply to a PM. Regarding the SAI; what route does it take in the head? As in how does the fresh air get to the exhaust gases? Looking at the head I'm keeping there is a port on the front under the inlet which draws the fresh air in, and it also goes to a small port on the underside - how do the gases get to the exhaust from there?

Bad news, but you could have been the car behind then it would have been a write off! I almost had this happen to me, 3 cars behind me didn't stop, hot the car 2 back which hit the car behind me. I was literally inches away.

I had a 1985 GTX is pewter grey metallic and black body kit. One of the best cars I've ever owned. Zender spoiler, MPG gauge. Man I miss that car.

It's a Vege head, it's not from the clearance sale, they all sold out before Xmas. But it was a sale head, well he did me a deal either way. One was shipped over from Holland and the other Belgium I believe. The SAI is a American / late Ford Galaxy / VW Sharan part. I believe it's an emissions thing and it injects fresh air into the exhaust gasses to reduce un-burnt fuel and carbons. No UK Corrado came with it. I've been told it doesn't affect performance or anything, it's purely for emissions. Effectivly it's a hole in the front of the head under the inlet. I need to block it up with a plug anyway otherwise I'll have exhaust gases escaping from the front of the engine. As for postage, I think £15 fully insured should be achievable?

Yep, that's the same image I used for mine. I think between myself and Sean_jaymo we'll get a good guide going. Just need to get my photos done. PurpleTom needs a mention too!

No problem.. I will get around to doing a basic guide and I'll include photo's.. Just finding time. I spent around 1.5 hours writing that guide!

VR6 Re-Manufactured cylinder head. This is a genuine VR6 head which has been jet steamed, chemical bathed then vapour blasted. Visually inspected then pressure and tolerance tested. Skimmed / machined head faces. New valves with machined valve seats, new stems, stem seals, springs and collets. Camshaft bores are checked and re-machined if required. All threaded holes have been checked and if required; repaired. Lifter bores have been checked and where needed, machined to tolerance. Then it was re-cleaned to remove any foreign material from the process and then finally sprayed a nice OE silver/grey. Comes with brand new stud's. This will be as close to brand new as you'll get. It is will come with a timing cover suitable for a dizzy VR6 but you can always swap over to your current coilpack timing cover if you should require it. it makes no difference to the head itself. Apologies for the rubbish iPhone photo's, I can get some nicer ones if you require. Also, please note that the head is covered in a protective oil which may look dirty/marked in some pictures. Located in Sheffield for collection. Delivery won't be a problem as I have a nice protected box for it. Please contact me with your address so I can get a postage quote. £300 ovno. I'll also swap for some Corrado / VR6 related goodies.. Long story short these retail at £445 + vat, plus delivery. They had a special offer at £245 +vat, plus delivery with two heads remaining. The salesman was unsure in the head difference so instead of buying one, only to realise I bought the incorrect head; then find out the other had sold - I just bought both. As it turns out one was early, one was late with a port on the front for a secondary air injection (that's the head I'm keeping). I'm not making a penny on this sale. If it doesn't sell this week I'll be putting it on eBay with the interest of making a little money on it. I thought I'd offer it on here for cost first.

Both sold

Now, wiring: There are essentially 4 wires coming from the Teves 20 ABS system loom to the fusebox, these 4 wires split/splice into 6 wires in total. The 4 wires coming from the ABS looms ECU connection. These have been physically traced and also confirmed with wiring diagrams: - grey/white - Pin 16 - grey/white - Pin 13 - black/red - Pin 12 - black/yellow - Pin 23 Now, the same loom at the fusebox side of things: - grey/white (Pin 16) - Goes to fusebox plug W2 which I believe is for the ABS warning light - grey/white (Pin 13) - Is the diagnostic connector which goes to the diagnostic block behind the centre console - black/red (Pin 12) - Goes to fusebox plug W4 which is connected to the brake light switch fusebox side - There is also a same coloured wire coming out at the W4 connection going to a single female terminal which is spare and not used. - black/yellow (Pin 23) - Now I think this goes to fusebox plug D7 (via a single terminal I believe) which is an ignition live. Connected to the W plug is a blue/white wire (W1) which is a VSS feed and plugs into the VSS block on top of the fusebox. Now here is where it gets confusinge.. As stated above black/red not only goes from ABS loom Pin 12, to W4 but also from W4 to a single female terminal. On the wiring diagrams it goes to a signal point terminal T1. This is essentially a secondary feed for a brake light switch. I.e. when the brake lights come on this feed goes live, brake lights off the feed goes off. there is a single wire terminal hanging down next to the fuse box which can be used here. Also, on the wiring diagrams; black/yellow goes from ABS Pin 23 to a terminal (TV18) which then goes to D3 and D7 on the fusebox. I believe both D3 and D7 are ignition lives. This is the only wire which you need to cut and splice from the original loom. the rest is plug and play. I do have pictures from my conversion which i'll have to spend hours going through. I'll update this post as and when I get chance. Any questions, just ask

To clarify a few things: Corrado VR6 Teves 02 All Corrado VR6's came with the Teves 02 ABS system; from start to end of production the system is identical, the only difference will be part numbers; as VW changed the identifiers to 1HO some time in the mid 90's - but all parts are 100% physically the same. About the system: - ABS and EDL - 3 channel ABS system, (fronts independent, rear is one channel). - Rear bias controlled via a mechanical load valve. - The ABS utilises 4x wheel speed sensors and a metallic ring on the hub to know how fast the wheel is spinning, or not. - Teves 02 uses a pedal position sensor built into the servo so it knows how hard (read far) you are pressing the pedal. - A unique ABS servo - The Teves 02 Master Cylinder, you have to bleed manually. - The ABS pump has to be bled manually. - The ABS pump requires two large extra feeds Overall it's a really old, basic, primitive system. Being 3 channel If one rear wheel locks, the ABS system reduces pressure to both rear wheels. The rear bias valve is known for failing and often corrodes itself to the rear axle needing to be cut off. It works by opening up and thus increasing pressure the lower the car is - In theory, under normal conditions if the rear went lower it was because there was more weight, and with more weight you need more pressure. This is obviously affected by those who lower our cars and also any suspension movement the car may have. The Teves 02 ABS system needs to be manually bled on the MC and ABS pump as well as all four corners and is a horrible job to do. The MC is now obsolete and hard to get hold of good used examples. The ABS know's when you are braking by the use of a pedal position sensor, the further you press the pedal the harder the ABS kicks in. The Pedal position sensor is now obsolete. The ABS pump and ECU are separate. The loom is large with relays above the heater box and fuses above the fuse box, the front sensor loom can be split above the front turrets as well as from the front sensor itself and the rear sensors start from under the rear seats. The Teves 02 uses a co-axle style wiring for the sensors. The ECU is in the cabin in the passenger foot well and the loom also goes to the servo for the pedal sensor. Now the Teves 20 ABS system: - ABS / EDL - 4 channel - Larger ABS pump - Integral ECU/Pump - No rear compensator, it's all electric - self bleeding - No pedal sensor - The Servo is the same as non ABS cars - No extra feeds - The ABS utilises 4x wheel speed sensors and a metallic ring on the hub to know how fast the wheel is spinning, or not. The Teves 20 system is a vast improvement, It's a 4 channel system so each wheel is independent, it no longer uses a bias valve and any bias is done electronically in real time. It no longer uses a pedal sensor and the ABS is activated purely via a basic on/off switch linked to the brake lights - the second you push the pedal it turns on and monitors for wheel locking electronically. The MC is self bleeding, aluminium and is highly available. The ABS pump is larger and faster vastly improving pedal feel and can also be electronically bled using VAGCOM. The pump is combined with the ECU and uses such less wiring. In short it's lighter, faster, stronger, compact and smarter. The loom is basic and goes from the ABS pump/ECU to the fuse box and then to all four corners. The wires to the front sensors are one piece direct to the sensors themselves and the rear sensor loom goes to under the rear seats like the Corrado, but the Teves 20 uses a basic live/earth two wire system for the sensors. When searching for Teves 20 it can be visually identified by three things: - The servo will NOT have a pedal sensor - The rear axle will NOT have a bias valve - The ABS pump has the integral ECU combined with it on the underside. What cars can I take the Teves 20 from? The Teves 20 ABS system came on later model Golf's (post 95) and also B4 Passats. Ideally the best donor car is the B4 Passat. The difference between the Golf and Passat are: - The Passat uses the exact same running gear / bulkhead / pedal arrangement as the Corrado, the dash gear is the same size and shape, everything is more or less plug and play and requires no custom work. - The Golf however uses a different fixing for the servo - Although it'll physically fit, the fixing at the pedal end is a ball joint, where as the Corrado/Passat uses a hole/pin arrangement. The golf's pedal arrangement is very different to the Corrado's and will not fit at all. The only option to use a Golf servo is to cut the ball end off, tap a thread and use the Corrado hole/pin arrangement from the old servo. Personally I don't like this option nor do I recommend it as the shaft on the servo is tapered, but I know it has been done in the past. - The Golf's ABS pump bracket is different, you can either drill new holes in the Corrado bulkhead/fastener plate or cut and weld the Golf bracket to the original Corrado bracket. - The Golf's interior ABS light is a larger style, it will not fit in the dash and the PCB is longer than the Corrado's slot so you'll really really have to cut up the dash slot/original Corrado light casing. - The Golfs master cylinder reservoir cap uses a different wiring connection for the warning light feed. Parts you need for the Teves 20 conversion: - ABS pump with integral ECU. Passat B4 / Post 95 Golf MK3 - ABS pump bracket - Either from a B4 Passat for a straight swap or a modified MK3 bracket (cut and weld) - ABS pump to fusebox/sensor loom. - Rear ABS Sensors, either use post 95 Golf, B4 Passat or 6n2 Polo rear sensors. Must be from a Teves 20 car. - Front ABS sensors, original Corrado ones can be used. Or any same style sensors from any Teves 02 or Teves 20 car, personally just use Corrado, Mk3 Golf or B4 Passat. - ABS light - Must be from a Teves 20 car. The post 95 Golf works but will not fit in the original hole and needs irreversible modifying to dash and light cover. Use a B4 Passat light PCB and the original Corrado casing for an OE look. A teves 02 light will NOT work and can NOT be modifed. - ABS light to fusebox loom - Must match the ABS light you use. i.e Passat b4 light and Passat B4 interior loom, or post 95 Golf Mk3 light and post 95 Golf Mk3 loom. - Servo - From a non ABS car or Teves 20 ABS car. Passat B4 is preferable as the post 95 Golf needs modifying and is dangerous in my opinion. - Master cylinder - Passat B4 or Post 95 Golf. Must be from a Teves 20 car and is 23mm. - Master cylinder reservoir - Passat Teves 20 ABS or non ABS. Golf non ABS or Teves 20 ABS with the original Corrado cap or modified wiring connection. - New custom pipework throughout What to use from your old system The ONLY things you save from your old Corrado Teves 02 system is the front sensors and ABS light casing. You can NOT use the ABS light, rear sensors, pump, ecu, fusebox to ABS light loom or any other loom. You can't use any of the original copper pipe work as the Teves 20 MC outputs are in different places, as are the ABS pumps - plus the pump uses larger external diameter unions. It doesn't use a rear valve so the rear pipes are one piece from pump to rear flexi's. To Clarify The ABS light between Teves 02 and Teves 20 are wired different (on the circuit board/loom) and can not be interchanged at all, it speaks with the ECU differently and the ECU uses the light as a fixed circuit, if the light doesn't work neither will the ABS. You need a Teves 20 light. The Golf's ABS light circuit board is far too wide and a unique shape in the dash. It will not fit and can not be realistically modified to work. The Passat B4 Teves 20 light is the exact same size and shape as the Corrao's, it just looks different. You can do a straight swap for the Corrado casing. You also need the 100% matching light to fusebox loom for plug and play results - This loom is around 6 wires and goes from one clip to one clip, nice and easy - but it differs from Golf to Passat and Teves 02 to Teves 20. The Servo that Teves 20 uses is the same as a non ABS servo. I highly recommend a Passat B3/B4 non ABS servo or a Passat B4 Teves 20 ABS servo. Both are the same part number and are a straight swap, finding a non ABS Passat B3/B4 servo is easy, don't be an idiot when brakes are involved and don't mess with the pedal anchor point on the Mk3 Servo, it's not worth it. I believe, but don't quote me that you can use a non ABS Corrado servo too. The master cylinder reservoir has to be from a hydraulic clutch VW with either no ABS or Teves 20 ABS. The Corrado reservoir has two extra outlets which are NOT needed with Teves 20. For the record I used a Golf MK3 Teves 20 master cylinder and reservoir (with MK3 golf spliced connection on my Corrado loom), MK3 Golf Teves 20 ABS pump/ECU and loom, MK3 golf Teves 20 rear sensors, the original Corrado front sensors, Passat B3 non ABS servo, Passat B4 Teves 20 ABS light, matching light to fuse box loom with the original Corrado ABS light cover (so it looks factory). My ABS pump/ECU bracket was a cutdown MK3 ABS bracket with the original Corrado bracket welded to the rear so it uses the orignal bulkhead fixings. All copper pipes were re-newed and custom shaped. ***Disclaimer: I wrote this from memory and although I believe this to be 100% accurate, as with any safety system on your car please do it properly, research and don't cut corners. Your life and others will be at risk if you do it poorly or make mistakes. If you don't know what you're doing ask for help or seek a professional - I won't take responsibility for your actions.**

Bare with me I'm just going to do a little info-graph on the systems. i'll add a reply asap.

It's been covered before. You even posted in the thread! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=84513&p=1003843#post1003843

Loose wire or connection? Mine did this a few years ago and one if the fuse box connections was loose and needed pushing in properly.

bump