P3rks

Brilliant. OE suppliers I presume? Found some at GSF for £12 the set. Thanks Stuey!

Pain in the arse? Not really. Big job? Yes. Firstly you have to renew all the pipe work as the ABS system is slightly different size/position and the union sizes are different - as are the MC outlets. Plus the rear lines are one piece from ABS pump to rear axle due to not needing the rear compensator. Then it's a dash out job as you need to trace and route the old wiring. It could be done with it in place but it's easier with it out as the old ABS loom wraps around and behind the heaterbox. It's pretty much plug and play though and only requires one wire splicing and it's very simple to install. I used a late MK3 as a donor. Post 95 facelift cars all have this system (as does MK4's which shows how upto date this system is - but the wiring isn't compatible). But MK3's use a different servo, the ABS pump/ECU bracket needs adjusting and the dash switch is the wrong size. The B3 Passat however is a straight swap as it uses all of the same style running gear/bulkhead/switch gear as a Corrado - literally no messing. For the record I used a Golf MK3 master cylinder, MK3 ABS pump/ECU and wiring, MK3 golf rear sensors, the original Corrado front sensors, Passat B3 servo (non ABS / later ABS are identical - indecently, I believe non ABS Corrado servos are the same?), Passat B3 ABS light with light to fuse box loom with the original Corrado ABS light cover (so it looks factory). My ABS pump/ECU bracket was a cutdown MK3 bracket with the original Corrado bracket welded to the rear. But you can use a B3 bracket or just drill the bulkhead to use the MK3 bracket. Also, the MK3 servo can be used but the union which fastens to the pedal needs threading and the original bracket screwing on it - but I wouldn't advise that route. Confused yet? :)

I'm buying some stem seals for a VR6 and VW want £65 for 12! Ouch. I know this is a job you only want to do every 100,000 miles or so.. But £65 for 12 seals is taking the ****. Are there any recomended alternatives such as Elring or Victor Reinz?

How unusual. So I wonder why it's only mine? I'm using safari and I've not changed any settings? All other vbulletin forums work fine?

If yours is a VR. The best brakes on a budget / OE+ brakes are: *MK4 Golf GTi calipers, MK3 GTi discs and pads up front. 288mm. Yeah, they are not much bigger but have a greater pad contact area and are a improved design. *MK4 Golf estate rear calipers and Corrado carriers, discs and pads for the rear. MK4 calipers are aluminium and don't seize. The estate calipers have a larger piston (41mm over 38mm). Only fit the estate versions with the below ABS system otherwise you'll spin out; fit the hatchback calipers if you retain the original ABS. *Goodridge stainless, braided hoses to suit the above. Reduces sponginess. *Teves20 ABS system from a late MK3 Golf / B3 Passat. The original ABS system is pants; it's 3 channel so treats the rear brakes as one - so if one wheel locks it loosens off both rear wheels. It's heavy and parts are becoming obsolete and hard to find. The Teves20 system however is 4 Chanel, each wheel is independant, it has a much larger and efficient pump to greatly improve pedal feel. It's self bleeding, parts are cheap and ten a penny, plus you remove the rear load valve as the ABS is smart enough to figure the rear balance itself - hence why you can fit larger rear pistons without the worry if them locking up. I've done all of the above to my car. Although it's no track weapon, I have so much more confidence in the brakes, they are more lively and have very very little pedal travel. I hated the way the original brakes had so much pedal travel and felt spongy. You literally had to push the pedal half way every time you stopped; now I literally feather the brake pedal. The VR brakes originally are pretty good, they just feel rubbish. I fitted the above carriers front and rear and they were still disappointing. The new ABS system is the game changer here.

How bizarre

Hello, When using the forum on my mobile devices such as my iPhone and iPad; the navigation bar is formatted incorrectly meaning the forums are right pain in the arse to navigate around. I know tapatalk is an option, but I don't like using it. For reference:

As above per the rubber bond/ I'd only have tinted. But when we say tinted are we talking OE green tint?

Do you have the passenger window mech?

Well there we go then. I thought the gruvenparts one is lifetime warranty though? How much is the OE plastic one from VW?

I'm after a Stainless VR6 crackpipe. Unless anyone knows where to buy a new one from?

So, how would it work? Just hook it up to the rear de-mister switch or what?

You'll want a solid billet adjustable tensioner. Try MaxRPM.de As for the chip, SNS digi-lag chip is what you want. Google is your friend. You should find them easy enough as I'm on my phone.

I fitted a 1997 MK3 sunroof with a Passat B3 panel with no issues. Straight swap.

Payment sent. :)

Well, I went to look at the engine and the number is definitely there. I can only make out the last few numbers if the engine number. The engine code section is so badly corroded. I noticed the engine says 2.5-2.8 though?

Stuey; did you have to clean it up to see it? Or was it easily seen?

Well, the issue is the stellar has already looked in that location and it's not there. I know it's stamped in dots, but nothing. Anything else?

I'm going to look at a spare 2.9 VR6 engine this weekend, so I have something I can rebuild over winter. I know I can look at auxiliaries to identify, but they can be swapped over to a 2.8 easy enough. So, how can I tell the block is 100% a 2.9 and not the 2.8?

Thanks for the info guys. I'm actually away in Maidenhead at the moment and the local garage bang next to my sisters flats are sorting it out. £96 though. Ouch. Although the guys really seem customer focused and know what they are doing. You can't put a price on that. :)

I need a wheel alignment for my Corrado VR6. In Sheffield. I'm struggling finding anyone who will have the car who A) will touch something with coilovers and b) who isn't retarded. I've just took the car to Challenger tyres on a few local recommendations, booked it in, explained its on coilovers but it's only a subtle drop. I get there to be tutted at saying they don't do anything modified as they don't know what to set it at - I explained factory; I want 0 toe and -1.2 camber. That's it. They put it on the ramps mess about for a bit then call me over. Eher mate, we can't do owt.. Durrr, it needs adjustable top mounts innit. I explain about the two bolts holding the suspension arm to the hub carrier. His eyes glaze over like I've just asked him for Einsteins equation for the theory of relativity. Eher, mate, I can do that but it's not the propa way. And it'll be £100+vat because it's 'ard. Get it off the ramps, forget about it. So... Any recommendations for where to take the VR?

:( I'll have to pass then. I have locking nut already but I need plastic caps to match the rest of my wheel bolts.

With the plastic caps? For a VR6 If so I'll take them.

Are you sure you're on about reverse mounting or do you mean face mounting? Reverse mounting will give you an et of around -40 so it'll stick out stupid amounts. Since your wheels need adapters anyway it'll practically be impossible and will be, frankly; retarded. Face mounting however will increase the et by around +10 which is more suitable to your needs, plus it looks Motorsport-esc which is a thumbs up in my books.

I'm in.