kongo127

Here goes mine! Not very clean dueing to everyday runing! No oil leaks! That´s just what i like! :)

Last year i had a problem with my G60´s clutch too! It was the slave cylinder. One day when i got into the car, the floor was all wet (oil leak from clutch peadal). I bought a new one from a VW dealer for 124 Euros. Not difficult to change! :|

recently i have been adjusting my G60 timing too! The engine runs different when you are turning the distribuitor counter clockwise (more power). But i never had problems with idle, always stable at 780 RPM (showed in MFA secret mode). You should inspect it carefully, as getting a raised idle... :?

Yeah! I went to a store and asked for steering fluid for my car. He said something like ATF dextron, i remember... Then he asked me if it was the red colour type or not. I was not sure of that, and the guy didn´t seem to be sure of oil type too! So i leaved the store without buying it! I think i am going to buy the original fluid from VW... I would be mad if i ruin the pump because of another oil. So i am thinking to buy it this monday on VW.

Yeah! You´re right... But I just don´t need those one litter cans that they want to sell me! LOL I just need a cup of it. So why pay so hard for all the rest that i won´t need? :oops: Thank you for the reply! :D

My steering fluid level is almost reaching the minimum level :!: , it is like this since the first day i bought the car, no oil leak! But i wouldn´t like to run the car much more time knowing of this. So i went to a VW dealer and told them the problem. They say not to worry. Just to buy some steering fluid. The problem is the price! Very very expensive! :shock: Does anyone knows if there is an similar steering fluid oil (other brand, not VW)? :?: Thanks!

You should check your fuel injectors also. Buy some STP injectors cleaning fluid and add it to the tank (read STP use instructions first)! I did it on my G60 because of his unstable idle and power loss. I can tell you that it made a huge difference! Very satisfied :) It is not expensive! Remember to use only STP products (high quality). Hope this works! :D If so... then change your fuel filter to prevent problems like this.

I am pretty sure of bad bearings! You can find a cheap kit of both of them on http://www.ebay.de

OK guys... Watch and learn! :mrgreen: This was all about grounds! Problem solved thanks to Henny and all the other "Corrados"! :D *mod edit - Removed double post for you - Henny*

Hi guys! I am almost buying the Bentley Manual... I just would like to know if it covers the charger (dissamble and rebuilt) because me charger is really needing a rebuilt! Thanks! :oops:

OK... lets think that it is really 100 RON :idea: So we can advance the timing i little bit more! :D Don´t you guys then have problems with the MFA showing fuel consumption? :?: I usually use 95 RON, but when i put some of the 98 RON i advanced a little more the timing without pinging/knocking, i got more power (quicker of the line!) :) but the MFA shows no fuel consumption! So i retarded timing again, and there it goes! The MFA is now working fine! What does the distribuitor advance has to do with the MFA readings? :?:

Hi Sean! I have the same problem with my G60, when a press the brake pedal gently, i can hear the same whooshing sound! And if i keep the pedal down to long i can hear the motor (from the oil pump) starting, then it stops when a certain pressure is reached! The brakes are good also! When i bought the car, he was stopped for about one year! The sound was much more higher! And sometimes even the ABS light came on! Now that´s is a nightmare, because when that happened (about 4 times that i can remember) I loose the brakes! Need to pull the hand brake!!! :shock: But now with everyday running it came smoother and smoother, today i almost can´t hear that whooshing sound (but the brake oil pump starts as always). I have no oil leak, MOT ok... So I guess that may not be a problem, but i never took this out of my mind... Maybe something is not working 100%... It is strange... :!: If you find something... please tell me! :?:

Is it possible to connect the boost gauge in the CO2 Pot place? Can i get a good reading there? I suspect my charger is KO, because it´s leaking oil in the output. It doesn´t seem normal... Any recomendations?

That is very strange... Have you already checked the idle screw? I´m almost sure that this is a mechanical problem...

fryfreek, you can always switch the temperaure probes, connect the blue conector into the black and vice-versa. If your problem dissapears, you know what to do! I cleaned up mine temperature sensors with some very thin sandpaper (it had a lot of crap!) Always use a good coolant, not regular water. It prevents problems like this :!:

There is a sensor behind the panel who measures the fuel by vaccum? Is it possible to get a reading of 0,0 litters per kilometer also? I have that problem on my 1990 G60, it shows 0.2 litters just when i ride above 200 km/h! Hehehehe! Completely impossible! (I wish) Have you solver your problem? If so... say something please... Cheers!

Is your blue temperature sensor working fine? Pay some attention to him, try cleaning up by dissambling it (very easy to do)! Is your exaust always popping either? Check the Lambda Probe / harness (it tells the ECU how to control the mixture)

Check Mode Test Check mode test verifies MFI is operating with the correct base vehicle information a. set MFI memory switch to position 2 b. switch ignition ON c. press and hold MFI select button d. switch ignition OFF, then back ON e. release mode select button Function Times mode pressed Mode/symbol inciated 1 - Test sum of programmed bytes 2 - Intake manifold vacum (mbar) 3 - Engine rpm 4 - Momentary fuel consuption 5 - Signal from speed sensor 6 - Oil temperature (degrees F or C) 7 Ambient(outside) temp (degrees F or C)

Hey spadey! Have you tried in the hidden modes of the MFA, such as instant consumption, and digital RPM meter on MFA also? Give it a try... Then tell me something! Pherhaps i can help you!

IN CHECK MODE TEST My MFA 1 readouts are by pressing mode button... 1 time, 2 times... i get these values (they are static): - 018 (engine map code) - 1 (country code) (CANADA) - 950 (speedo drive ratio) (CANADA) - 7418 (upper RPM limit) - 1175 (lower RPM limit) - 56 (oil temperature) The same thing, but now in MFA 2 mode pressing the mode button several times, i get: - 9413 (Test sum of programmed bytes) - 82 ~ 87 (Intake manifold vacum) in idle at this case, it varies with good values (OK) - 0 (engine RPM) how could it be possible? The needle shows about 800 RPM (KO) - 0 (Momentary fuel consuption) The car is running at idle, there must be some spent fuel! (KO) - 1946 (Signal from speed sensor) This one varies when i am on the road (OK) - 96ºC (Oil Temperature) It also varies (OK) - 24ºC (Ambient Temperature) (OK) On normal mode MFA1 or MFA2 there is no fuel consumption! It always shows 0,0 Litters per Kilometer! I have checked all grounds, cleaned all connectors i saw with WD40. Everything seems to be fine! I don´t get this one... Any advices? :roll:

In both modes MFA1 and MFA2 there are no information about fuel consuption it always shows 0,0 Liters/KM. When i enter in the MFA secret mode, there is either no instant fuel consupmtion. The RPM is also stuck in 950 RPM and the oil temperature also stuck in 56 ºC (these values in hidden mode) Do these signals come directly from the ECU? Can i do a reset to this? Maybe it will start good the next time...

Can anybody give me a clue? What is the relation between timing and vaccum? Since when i move in the distribuitor the vaccum changes even with the same rpm!

About a week ago, my 1990 Corrado G60 stopped showing the fuel consumption reading on the MFA! Even in the instantly mode! I have checked almost all vaccum hoses, and seem to be fine! The boost pressure showed in hidden mode is ok and i got stable readings fluctuating with idle 84 - 88. If the MFA fuel reading is done by vaccum, and i have a correct vaccum reading, how can this happens? I am worried... What can i do?

Hi guys! I have exactly the same exaust popping! I can avoid it if i advance manualy the timing turning counter clockwise the distribuitor just a little before knocking occurs! The car runs much better and quicker of the line! The popping dissapears! But everything points to a dead lambda probe. Because there is no oxigen feedback to the ECU and automaticly it runs rich (to much) and that is why we need to adjust manually the timing, because the ECU doesn´t make it! And the fuel gets burned in the exaust! The best thing to do is to buy an Original Bosch Lambda Probe! And the car seller told me that had to remove the catallitic converter, because it was noisy (looks like a coffee can with some coins in there). So i really believe it a faulty lambda probe!

Hi folks! How can i know if the lamda probe is dead? What would happen in that case? My muffler is always popping! And the car is a bit slow! But if i advance the timing to the maximum (almost knocking) the popping dissapears, and the car runs much better! Shouldn´t the ECU advance ignition timing automaticly till the knock sensor detects it? To then back it off a bit? Why can i advance so much (rotating the distribuitor manually)? It is possible to run much more timing, and the ECU doesn´t make it automaticly. There is still a problem... when i advance the timing, the MFA doesn´t show any fuel consumption! (completely impossible). Timing is done by the blue temperature probe, right? What is going on? Any ideas? :?