kongo127

Have a search mate, you´ll find alot of info about that! :) Gear cables are adjustable, and RedLine MT90 gear oil helps alot aswell!!!

Do you have such a big gap while placing them? I guess that you may place them anyway, just apply the same strategy to both. After job done, take the car to a 4 all wheel alignment, and camber will be corrected, as all other parameters.

Did you need to cut or modify any part of the air ventilator? Looks sweet! :) ------------------------ After a closer look, i guess there´s a slight modification. :oops: By the way... What´s that socket placed next to the headlight switch? I found a similar one on my car, hidding in the middle of the fuse box wires... Maybe a late alarm system? :wink:

On G60´s ECU you can only find EPROM 27C256 (UV Erasable), which are not compatible with that programmer. I don´t know about VR6´s ECU...

Beige interiors would look awesome! :)

Alright! Will try that! :)

Well done mate! :) You´ll notice such a huge difference running the car! Yeah, unbelievable!

Oh! I hate that bolt! You´d better replace it mate! It screwed up my holidays! :( I think that those crank bolts are glued, which makes it really hard to take them out. I would try an impact key, like those that the tyre shops use (pneumatical). Maybe some solvent can help dissolving the glue. Just don´t brake the bolt! The pulley will come out, but it will be a pain to remove the other part of the bolt!!!

OK! I´ll do a compression test next week, i´m worried about my C... For a final question, how do you bolt up properly the crank pulley? Even with both wheel on the floor and gear engaged, the engine turns, which makes dificult to do it.

Nice car mate! What colour is it? Tornado Red or Flash Red? Welcome to the forum! :D

Should i be worried? :oops: Maybe a compression test can tell me if everyting is ok? :wink:

My MFA boost readings stop at 2000, but the car is still revving up. This charger was delivering 248 on my old G60 with the USA boost table, which i think that is around 2200. The boost gauge shows 1.3bar Does anyone get more than 2000 readings on MFA? :oops:

I´m done! :D She´s working fine! With the same stable idle! 8) It was such a pain to remove the other part from the broken bolt from the crankshaft! :shock: Being an interference engine, i wonder if the engine got damaged inside... Should i notice anything if it´s damage? Which signs could tell me that? One more question... Does the crankshaft bolt needs glue on its thread? I didn´t put any, because i cannot find it around here (i´m on holidays). The crank pulley is slightly wobbling, is this the fact that made the bolt brake? Thank you very much for your help guys! For sure, the best forum in the world! 8) Happy holidays for everyone!

Cheers Henny! :) I´m about to fit the crank bolt right now. I´ll post in a couple of minutes...

Low boost is mainly associated with loss of power many times. Have you check for any leaks in the system?

Hi guys! I´m in big trouble for sure... Yesterday my crank pulley belt got lost because its bolt broke while i was driving on the motorway! The car died instantly without any bumps, at the first time i thought that the fuel pump was KO, but no. This afternoon i´ll be replacing timing belt and setting up the timing properly (it´s my first time by myself). I just hope the engine is healthy, without any damage. The pistons are graved, is there any chance that they could hitted the valves and damaged them by their stroke? All engine pulleys are out of position right now. Any recomendations for this kind of job? How can i set up the pulleys properly without damaging any parts? Help ASAP!

I´m with flusted on this one! Sounds like a deffective oil pressure sensor or it´s wiring...

It seems to me that your car has timing issues... Maybe worth checking it 6deg. btdc and also the vaccum hose that goes from the intake manifold up to the ECU. It would be nice to inspect the spark plugs, wires, and rotor arm aswell... :)

Don´t you need to take the oil pan out in order to replace the oil pump?

I really like them! :) Though sounds like a lot of work involved! Does the final result worth? I am talking about lightning quality... But hey! Go for it! :)

Yes, that´s what Darren means!

Hmmm... :? -0.6 volt (minus) reading? Did you respect the correct polarity on the multimeter? About the other Audi lambda... It should work ok, but i don´t understand very well about it´s wiring. :wink: How many wires are in total? Do you have a picture of it? There are some old lambdas that GND is made from it´s shield when attached to the exhaust pipe. There are also some other lambdas that have 2 wires for their output, in this case you need to connect the multimeter here (both), instead of the car´s GND. Hope this helps...

You can try another lambda without taking out the other one as while you´re not sure about it´s condition. Now that you know the lambda pinout, you can just hotwire another one lie this: Get 12v from the boot light and GND from any other place in the car. Stick the lambda inside the exaust and read the output from pin 4. Pin 1 - 12v Pin 2 and Pin 3 - GND Pin 4 - Lambda Output reading If you get readings, you can always pre-setup your car´s CO value. Turn the CO Pot gently till you get around 0.7 volt on lambda´s output. This will prevent your engine running lean and safely! :)

If you got 12v at pin 1, earth on pin 2 and pin 3, and 0.37 volt on pin 4 then your lambda is dead (lambda connector readings). I could also tell you that your car could be running very lean, but you have the opposite problem. I wish i was closer to help you matey...

You don´t need to bother with that Black (GND) from ECU, it can even be ignored if you want to. But you need to get some GND to the same pin where the Black wire was going to connect. So the easiest way is to short pin 2 with pin 3 (already bolted / grounded on the engine mount) on the lambda connector. It is important to have the shield grounded in this case, and in major cases the same situation, as lambda output signals are very low and sensitive to interferences from the outside, giving peaks / wrong signals to the ECU. I guess you´re almost done and sorted! :) Keep posting! :)