kongo127

HAHAHAHA!!! :lol: :D Best Wishes Darren! 8)

I would like to do that! But that´s a MOT failure over here... :roll:

The Black wires brings GND to the Lambda Probe, because your Lambda is heated. So you can get GND from another place. You may earth the Black wire, or... The easiest way is to short pins 2 and 3. ;) You need to get lambda readings with the connector plugged. I arranged a thin copper wire capable to pass through the connectors, using some force (be gently) to get them togheter.

I totally agree! That´s why the ECU enters in safe mode, dumping more fuel than necessary to avoid the engine running lean. Note: Pay attention to your multimeter input impedance, if it´s too low, the lambda voltage will drop, causing erratic reading. So analogic multimeters usually shouldn´t be used in this case. But only digital multimeters!

What do you exactly want to know mate? Lambda Pinout? If your Lambda Probe has 4 wires then: FROM ECU HARNESS: 1 - Red (+12v) 2 - Black (GND) 3 - Brown (GND/Lambda Shield) 4 - White with Red Stripes (Lambda Input on ECU) ----- LAMBDA PINOUT: 1 - White (+12v) 2 - White (GND) 3 - Brown (Lambda Shield) - with a brown wire bolted on the rear engine mount 4 - Lambda Probe Output (you should be good with 0.7volt) So you just need to match these wires numbers! :) Hope this helps... Keep posting!

Is there any special procedure to work with 2x2 connectors? I cannot get any information with the software... My 1992 G60 Jet has three 2x2 connectors. I connect the black one and the white one to the cable. I open the VAG-COM program, he detects the connectors properly and also receives TX / RX data aswell. I didn´t use the other connector as i assume it´s only for the ABS communication. Any ideas? Picture below... Any Guru??? :oops:

I remember some time ago, a 17 old year mate who joined this forum... He owns a Corrado 2.8 VR6!!! God bless America!!! :lol:

Very true for common alarm systems! Get a switch for the bonnet mate!

I have always used a screw-driver to press the tensioner arm... :oops: There is a special VW tool for it, or may build your own tool. You also need to remove the PAS belt to do the charger one. Maybe it´s a good time to inspect it for any wear, and do both! Be sure to use the correct belt size for A/C models or even for smaller pulleys!

The problem is that Corrado windows have a glued plastic part which drives the window through a metallic rail. They usually brake with time, you will get that annoying rattle, window playing which will not allow to close it properly to the top... Once i went to VW to get those plastic parts. They told me they were not supplyed individually, only the complete window!!! :shock: Bunch of muppets!

Does it only happen when with the drivers side window and horn only? Once i had a very similar problem in another car, it may seem odd but they were a couple of problems togheter. - Engine running very lean - Electrical motor (unfused) with high current consumption - Alternator with a pair a fried diodes

Phil´s mod looks sweet! I might go for it! I never thought that the unit dimensions would fit so good in a Corrado! :)

Oh my god!!! That´s exactly what i´m looking for! Looks so nice! What´s involved fitting it on the Corrado???

This is an interesting thread... A couple of days ago i assembled a GPS system on my friend´s Seat Ibiza. You can find these on Seat Leon and many VW´s. It quite easy to wire. I wonder if anyone has ever seen one of these on a Corrado? They look so nice... I wonder if there is enough space to place it...

Fitted an amplifier and cross-overs with a subwoofer system. Awesome sound! This is one more reason to stay inside the car! :)

This is why someone schrick developed their oil pans to prevent oil starvation on hard cornering. Of course, if your oil level is low you will still hear that beep. I have the VR6 voltage and oil pressure gauges on my car. When i hear the beep the oil pressure is very low! Around 0bar! Beware of that!!!

Yes, it does. Did you measured the fuel pressure? You should get 3bar with the stock fpr connected to the inlet manifold, and 4bar with the little hose disconnected. Keep posting!

Today i replaced the gearbox oil with some Red Line MT90. Sweet shiftting! :) The 2nd gear no longer crunches!! I should have done this a long time before! I strongly reccomend all 02A gearbox owners to do the same! :)

Nice Camaro! :)

Even like that this accident picture is horrible! Poor Corrado!

I don´t remember where i saw the 16v fuel pressure information. But if you have a higher fuel pressure in the fuel rail, i guess that the 3bar fpr from the G60 which works with vaccum / pressure on the intake manifold may not be able to regulate such a high fuel pressure from the pump, and as a result you may get a higher pressure on your fuel injectors causing overfueling. This is just a theory! Worth a check with a gauge and a flow meter also.

These lights are just like mine! The previous owner said it was lacquer, i really love them on my red car. Though i don´t really know what´s involved / process...

Maybe you should check your brake system before upgrading it... The stock brakes from Corrados are very good in my opinion... Have you replaced the brake fluid recently with some good stuff along with a nice bleeding? Are you rear callipers sized? Keep posting and welcome to the forum! :)

I agree! For better results a gearbox to match that power is a MUST! :) The original ATB G60´s gearbox seems to be the better box to get if you don´t want to go for a gearbox rebuild service. It´s final drive is much better for those kind of power / torque instead of the CBA. I have tested both in my G60, you can really notice the huge difference! :) The ATB final drive is very similar to the VR6 ones...

Is this what it looks like?