seanl82

Sorry to hijack the thread, but with regard to the cheap looms through ebay, I believe this is what was fitted to my car when I bought it, and I have an earth somewhere although not investigated fully yet. The relays click as soon as the battery is connected, although the lights dont come on. All lights working as they should when switched on and off, but is it correct that the relays engage with power from battery only? or should they only engage when switched on? Thanks guys.

Dunno about the flush tbh, sorry! But 3 litres and the rest distiller water is all that VW use regardless. 50/50 with water will be good down to about -40, so a little extra water will see you good in our mildish weather (although it feels like the south bloody pole right now!). To fill, go from expansion tank with top rad hose slightly off to release air. Fill slowly, and disconnect coil and turn the engine over 3 or 4 times during filling to circulate a little. When water starts coming out of top rad hose, connect it back up, then fill to max on expansion tank. Carry on with normal bleeding routine and top up as required.:smug:

Cheers mate your a ledge, but how much!!!!!

Hi Gents/Ladies. The lower window seal type thing on my passanger door is perished, mouldy and mis-shaped. I've been looking for one online (fleabay) and can only find the door seal. :scratch: Does anyone know the actual name to help in my search. Its the one between the door and the bottom of the window that runs from wing mirror to past the door handle if that makes sense. A part number and price would be even more helpful too! :thumbleft:

You can get a Mk3 golf 16v flywheel and clutch if their the same as they use 02a boxes, whereas the mk3 8v uses the 020 box as well. I'm sure someone would know if these are compatible so you can widen your search.

I was looking at brushes a couple of weeks ago. There was only one set on eBay at the time, but may be more now. Get the part number off your alternator as a reference, as there are a couple of variations, hence the reason I could only find 1. There were a couple more for other variations than mine though. The one I was looking at was on an auction from a trade seller, and went for a fiver plus 3 quid delivery to give you an idea on how little you can get em for.

I've always found ecar to be cheapest when insuring for up to about a week, but never had to do it longer. Have you asked your usual insurer? May look favourably on you rather than using a comparison site as your obviously already a customer.

As above. And first up, give em both a wash!

The original in mine was one of the round bike lock type key switches inside the glove box. The last one thats just been removed was a preclusion immobiliser, and I had to wave the fob across the steering wheel shroud at the bottom. If your DIY'ing it, I'm sure some sort of key switch hidden somewhere, and fitted inline to ignition supply or even fuel pump would be fine. Would be very easy to do if you splice it in behind the ignition switch.

Sounds like the belt is too tight to me. Loosen it a little as a first step and see how you get on.

Finally got round to going over all panels with the rotary after being rained off so many times. This is my first full car so I'm deffo no expert, but I was really pleased with the results tbh. Just used some Megs Ultimate compound, and a 3M Green Compounding Pad. Exterior Trim plastics were done using AG Bumper care, and tyres using some Turtle wax stuff I had lying around - although its actually quite good imo. Need to go over it a couple of times again with a finishing pad and DJ limeprime, and finish it with Jetseal 109, and Collinite wax. Well thats the plan! For now though, it was just gone over with AG SRP, and DJ need for speed! lol. This was done like this as I'm going to the Southwest Dubs meet in Exeter tomorrow, so just wanted it looking reasonable for the moment. Anyway here are a few more pics, not the best camera but you should get the idea. Will try to get some tomorrow when its been washed and dressed again early in the morning. Alternator also arrived the day after the last post, so thats fitted and all good now after a quick clean and light polish up. Also exhaust has been sorted, all it needed was one clamp, but I couldn't see before due to the ton of Gun Gum covering it all! It was actually just some repair wrap with a couple of clamps by the look of it. :bonk:. Anyway, here are some more pics. Alternator old vs new Remains of old exhaust repair And a few pics after the quick clean.

Doh............ Will have a look to make sure its on properly. Cant wait to try reconnecting the speedo drive after. :bonk: Cheers bud.

Where does the MFA get its MPG feed from? Recently my 'current trip' (setting 1) only occasionally works. It just sits at 99.9 most of the time. I ran a tin of BG44K through it so expected it to improve slightly, and its happened since then, but dont think its that good! lol.

Not got round to tracking down the million and one knocks, squeaks and rattles yet but that will come hopefully! And I know mine is an early one (90 kr), and the interior has probably been ripped out and put back in a thousand times with the obligatory odd screw left over, but I thought the exact same thing as the OP with regard to interior build quality. Nothing seems to line up very well, and as above, lots and lots of annoying little rattles! I will get it sorted though.

The ones under the scuttle really are a PITA! I honestly almost put the ratchet through the windscreen in my rage at trying to get them off!

I got triple NGKs from ECP for mine, less than 4 quid each even without discount. I don't see the the point in quad titanium element and all the rest of that crap! You'd never know the difference, and neither would your motor. Waste of money IMO.

Couldn't find anything in a search, but I have replaced my alternator with a used one, and I was planning on refirbing the original. Brushes atm are both 6-7 mm. What are the minimum recommended for replacement, and what are they new? Cheers guys!

It's gonna take a good while on each one! Would obviously be much easier if you could remov em first, but if that's not an option, just take your time and do a thorough job. It's not difficult, just time consuming. If you manage to get them free, coat the thread with copper slip to ensure easier movement in the future.

As long as it's properly disconnected all should be fine to take the rest out. Just trace the wires back rather than snip em off, that should leave you with all bases covered mate.

As above but with mildly warm water. By the time you've returned the jug/kettle to the kitchen, it should all be done. :thumbleft:

Had another "Oh F##k!" moment today. Was leaving work, but I'd been driving a little around the dockyard so oil temps were nice and hot, water temp at 90, and thought I'd hand a mate his arse on a plate as we stopped side by side at the lights. Road leading out onto A38 is a 50mph road, that merges a couple of hundred yards up from the lights. He was in a 1.6 astra thats chavved up btw. Anyway, lights turn green, I leave him for dust, down clutch, shift up to second, plant foot, spin wheels a bit, look in rear view, and I have absolutely masses of blue smoke pouring out the exhaust! He had to pull back a bit "apparently" as he couldnt see bugger all! pulled in on the shoulder, switched off engine, and sat with head in hands for a moment. What a cock I felt for trying to show off! Anyway, mate pulls up behind, and starts laughing! bloody cheek! Smoke stank of oil, so mind was racing, but then remembered I'd overfilled oil in the rush to get it done last week. Pulled plugs, all ok, started engine, still a bit smokey, but getting better, no pressure alarms, temps all good, sounds fine, so thought I'd crawl home. Started off very conservative, but smoke soon cleared, confidence rose slightly, and right foot got a little heavier. No power loss or anything, no rattles or knocks, and everything seems ok touch wood. Think I got away with it this time, but I will be NOT be hitting the limiter again in the near future! Drained a bit of oil, so now just below top of indicator, and picked up the exhaust coupler that needs fitting this w.end. Alternator not arrived yet, but will polish it up, and fit as soon as it does. The battery is lasting about 5 days between charges at moment so not the end of the world, but could do with it sharpish! I've also given the front end a go over with the rotary at the w.end. Wings look good, but bonnet is a lost cause I think! Pretty faded, and looking at the doors, I think I'm gonna struggle to sort them too. The wings and bumpers are gonna look great, but its gonna look like a bloody harlequin by the end of it! lol. Will get some pics up when all panels are done, some wax has been added, and I've taken her somewhere nice for some photos.

Its not just a weight hitting your caliper is it? I had that, chimps at pro tyre put the weights right in line with em. Luckily I found the cause pretty sharpish and they sorted it.

Ok, yeah does sound like starter motor. Give it another go, it won't do any damage to anything else, if it's already goosed, there is nothing else it could affect. Have a look on eBay, new starter motor is around £50 I think. You can get em for a bit more from one of gsf/ECP etc, they they all have 2 year guarantees so exactly the same IMO apart from being twice as much. Pretty simple to change too, sure there's a guide on here somewhere. Hope you get it all sorted mate.

For anyone interested, just had a look at my receipts and the 4-2-1 manni that's fitted to my KR was purchased from Pro Tech in Lancashire. Item number 190168320281 for Golf mk2 GTI and corrado 16v, price in Nov 07 was £189 incl VAT, and £12.75 delivery. No phone number and can't find a website (quick search and hundreds of companies named pro-tech!) but lots of reviews etc online.

Sounds like starter solenoid not springing back after run up, but if it's turning the engine over it could be something else. Starter motor is the cylindrical thing that sits just in front of the gearbox. When you turn the key, the solenoid shoots out (a small gear) and engages the flywheel to crank the engine over. If it carries on running, it could be a sticking spring that pulls the solenoid back in. This often leads to imminent break down of the starter motor. If when turning now, you just get a high pitched whine, like the motor is spinning but not engaging the engine, then obviously could be the spring not shooting out to the flywheel, or the gear is stripped of teeth (99% of the time the starter motor gear, not flywheel gearing). So to confirm, your engine is turning over though yes?