seanl82

I reckon you probably could. The amount of 2.8 lumps with all ancilliaries including FPR that were originally attached to a 2.9 are plentiful, and although its the other way around there have never been reports of any issues. I've seen plenty of 2.9 lumps in Golf VRs as well and don't think any of that has been changed. They see it as a bit of an upgrade, although the inlet manifold will be just as effective as the entire engine with regard to power!

From what I've heard, the valves can be replaced but the send back unrepairable units if there is physical damage either internally or externally, as they can't guarantee it.

Even better Rob! I don't really know how they're made up but I think the in tank unit is made up of a few parts from what I remember. The pump itself sits in a housing which is mounted on rubber feet from what I remember. I've heard that these break down so the pump rolls around a bit which has caused cutting out issues when cornering for some. I need to investigate a bit more to see what is going on. My tank isn't connected but I strapped it back on to the underside for transportation when I moved house. We will be finished with the house renovation by Summer so I can put some time into the poor girl then!

Well it produced 195.9 bhp, 196 lb ft torque on the RR at stealth (a couple of years ago but only about 1k miles ago) so don't think it's struggling to get fuel. Always worth having one at the ready for £70 though!

Have you cleared the codes from within the specific abs test then tried again? I was chasing codes that weren't there as they don't clear when resetting DTCs. But if so, yeah with the inlet and outlet ports it definitely sounds like your pump.

Glad you've got it sorted! My gauge drops when climbing (or descending, I can't remember it's been so long since I've driven it!), so thinking of replacing it at some point as I think the mounts have gone. I need to open it up to inspect really, but need some nice big oil filter pliers or something to undo the top nut as it's stuck fast!

I know some have used them and they've worked (which is why I tried it), but unfortunately not for me!

Yeah I bought one. The symptoms were worse than my original so I sent it back for a replacement, but the replacement was almost as bad. I ended up just cutting my losses and bought a known good second hand one.

Thanks mate. :thumbleft:

Hope it sorts it for you. Out of interest, where did you get the fuel pump and parts from?

Yes you are...... :lol:

No, it definitely doesn't fit on that! Thats the bleed nipple for the brake slave cylinder, so unless you wan't brake fluid inside your nice new shiney Schrick, I'd say don't connect it to that!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Audi-VW-VAG-2x2-KKL-2-2-to-VAG-16-pin-Adaptor-Diagnostic-Cable-UK/264045314782?epid=1488272422&hash=item3d7a53c2de:g:MzYAAOxyuR5TbAmy:rk:1:pf:0 This is the adapter you need. I've used it with Rosstech VCDS and worked perfectly on a 93 year VR6.

Yeah I used a set of needle nosed pliers, fed them through the rings then opened them up to remove, then just a normal set of pliers to close them back up again. So long as you don't open them right up, they're perfectly re-usable.

Think its here. https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/corrado/cor/1995-76/1/133-37006/

If you find seanjaymos old build thread, skip to the last few pages and it shows them side by side. I'd link it but I'm on my phone and it's a pita. I'd say to get them changed if you can though

I can't comment from a stock suspension perspective as I've only ever driven a Corrado with modified suspension, but the Bilsteins are the best by far that I've been in. That's what made me choose them. I think the stock height looks wrong personally, especially the late VR6 plus suspension. A subtle drop of 25mm bringing it in line with modern heights is best, though as you've said does offer a firm ride compared to standard. It's a bit of a trade off, and one which I'd have to think long and hard about if I had stock on previously.

I also have the B12 kit, though I've not yet driven it with the correct rear springs (different story/thread), even so, it was night and day better than the Weitec Coilovers that were on there before.

Yeah he does early and late type. For info, the VR6 engine was purchased by Ford for use in the Galaxy (atrocious car), but as such, they also still do some parts for it at much cheaper prices than VW apparently. Not sure if part numbers are the same, and if not where you'd find them though.

Hi Bryan, Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to the forum. What is the fan problem that you're having? There are a few known fan problems depending on your symptoms. Let us know what you're experiencing and we'll try to help where we can. For info, Stealth racing in Southam aren't too far from your general area. They're one of if not the, most knowledgeable professionals in the UK for all things Corrado.

The first lot that Sprinter offered were much cheaper, but someone bought a few of them and put them on ebay for a vastly higher price. No unsurprisingly, Sprinter didn't take too kindly to that so he put his prices up for all unfortunately. Fortunately for me though, I bought a set in the first run! :smug:

The heater resistor is a common failure and gives symptoms of the heater only working on setting 4. The position of the fan and the inlet duct for it in the scuttle panel area means when the seal breaks down, it allows rain water in. This is likely to be the reason it cought on fire, as either it arced on the electrical components or as you may have had, just dried out the bearing on the fan causing it to become noisy and necessitating replacement. The other problem you have is that the direction flap is covered in foam which should direct warm/cold air to where it's set, but if the foam is broken you'll get air to your dash vents regardless. Finally, the direction dial is also a common problem as the Bowden cables attached from the dial to the airbox become stiff, so end up being forced and either break the teeth on the gearing, jump teeth, or break the mounting points for the cables. Heater matrix is weak and can block so you'll only get warm or cold air, or they'll rupture and spill boiling hot coolant into your foot well. Early signs are fogging of the windscreen. All common problems (except the fire which is rare and extreme) unfortunately.

I think so. Though I only have experience of VR6 which doesn't have an underbody one, but the in tank one is relay number 67 or 167. If you remove the fuse cover, the relays are above the fuse board. You should be able to tell if it's working by simply putting your finger on it then turning the ignition on. You should feel it click where it engages. Ah, just saw the other thread. As mentioned if one is priming then the relay sounds good.

Worth checking the crank sensor too. You should be able to see it at the front of the motor near the bottom left side. It has a hex bolt holding it in and is at a right angle to the motor. Its very common for the plastic to become brittle and crack at the right angle, and cause cutting out when it gets hot. It usually doesn't re-start until temps are down, but worth checking. Other things to check are the throttle damper. Just twist the butterfly valve to open the throttle, and watch it close. It should soft close toward the end to ensure revs don't flat out.

Worth checking/replacing the fuel pump relay before forking out for a new pump.