seanl82

Worth sticking it on the facebook pages Troy, there seems to be a lot more footfall on there than on here these days.

No the original headlining isn't alcantara. I think what Hasan was saying is that if you re-do it with faux suede, it'll look a little like alcantara which is a more plush material. You'll really struggle getting anything to match your sunroof cassette material. The material is foam backed, which is what is stuck to the headliner. Unfortunately its the material that comes away from the foam which is why its so difficult to put it back on. Your only real option other than replacing the lot, is removing the entire material, using an upholstery glue in an aerosol on the foam, and waiting until its almost dry. You should then be able to put the material on and hope it sticks well. If the glue is still a bit wet, it'll just bleed through the material and you'll end up with crusty patches all over the place. It looks terrible if that happens. I'd just get a decent foam backed beige material and redo the lot. It won't be OEM perfect, but it'll be neat and shouldn't be overly noticeable unless the colour is way off.

I'd check all your vac hoses to make sure there are no breaks or splits first, but it could be a battery or alternator issue. The fact that revs change when you switch on the heaters is normal. You're demanding more from the battery, and so the alternator will supply more power to compensate, hence you get the slight drop then surge whenever you turn on any electrical item. The lights are usually most noticeable. 1200 rpm is high though, so unless someone has been fiddling with your idle screw to mask or incorrectly overcome a stalling issue (sounds plausible), I reckon checking vac lines and intake pipework should be your first port of call mate.

Angus, If you can, I'd advise seeing if the engine turns over by hand, then draining any fuel and sticking a tenners worth of fresh fuel in. You should at least then be able to see if it'll jump start before spending on a new battery. It'll appeal to far more potential buyers if its at least running, and you may also be able to take it for an MOT if you wish as well mate.

Hi Angus, sorry to hear about your uncle. It's difficult to price them without seeing, as you've mentioned the prices vary so much. Do you have any invoices for engine work (timing chain replacement)? Is it cloth or leather upholstery? The fact it's been off the road for a pretty significant amount of time will mean quite a lot of the suspension and running gear bushes etc will need replacing as well as tyres. Has it been started regularly over that period, and does it run now? With near mint bodywork, leather interior, and if it's a runner, you may be able to push £3k, but if not and despite the body being in good order, I don't think you'll get more than 2k mate.

:salute::thumbleft:

AP have very good reviews. Apparently they're KW but zinc coated rather than stainless.

Just saw the post, shoots my reply down! I'll amend my statement, not sure it'll be a VW 6 pot though! :thumbleft:

Did he now! I saw the scissor lift he'd bought, not sure it'll be a German six pot on it though! He goes through cars like I go through underwear Rob! Haha :lol:

Merry Christmas all! Rob, I got the Corrado only parking sign from Heritage too. I think I mentioned it to the missus when Anna first posted about them (I was probably fishing for it!), but I had forgotten. Didn’t think she would remember the Heritage site anyway if I’m honest but kudos to her, I’m happy! :thumbleft:

Yeah the comma stuff will do perfectly. As mentioned by by Dox, don't overtighten (especially the tapered rear ones) as it'll score the races/stub axle. I know from experience! lol.

It doesn't have to be specific wheel bearing grease. Most CV or high temp greases can be used. You usually get a little sachet of it in with new bearings, though I prefer to use a bit more tbh.

Hi Giles, Can't help with the charger, buts its a common engine swap. Have a look here, loads of info available. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?36117-The-Forced-Induction-20V-Thread

Thanks mate. Don't think I'll need that much, its just spot repairs around some of the mounting bolts for the heat shield etc. I've not touched the car in about a year mate. I feel terrible as its about an inch thick in dust in the garage! We moved into a period house in February which needed a little TLC. We've got the ground floor and garden left to do, though all bar the kitchen are being done in Spring. The kitchen won't be done for a couple of years yet, so as soon as the other rooms are finished I'll be back on the car. Had to prioritise for the house, and me and the missus have both got new daily drivers so spending on the Corrado has taken a back seat.

Haha, you should have been insistent! I'm assuming the dinitrol is the grey one, 447? Did you apply it with a shutz gun? I'm just wondering how you got a similar texture to factory underseal. I'm finally going to be getting mine back together as we'll be finished on the house after Spring.

The only problem you'll have with removing the top, is the headrest leg trim things as they are quite difficult to remove from the seat backs. Be careful on the tilt handles when removing them too.

Remove the seat from the runner, separate the back from the top by removing the bracket trim and securing pins, then you'll see the teeth that are holding the covers in place. Just peel them back gently with a flat trim tool or screwdriver and take it off. The bolsters then just lift off. Reverse to fit the new one, Job done. :thumbleft:

Looks great Chris! The underside looks very factory in colour and texture, what did you use to get it like that? Also, why have you gone Jap in the garage!? :lol:

It’s an easy job but as you’ve mentioned, you won’t find a replacement unless out of a passenger side seat that someone is breaking. A good upholsterer may be able to make you a new one based on your current one though

I saw a Sherry Pearl 16v in Fareham a few years ago, it was owned by the housemate of the guy my wife was supporting. She asked if he was willing to sell it which he was, but wanted far too much for it in the state it was in. That was about 5 years ago now though.

They are adjustable, the strut just moves in and out where its bolted onto the hub knuckle top and bottom, which allows adjustment. Should be -0.5 from factory from memory.

Welcome to the Forum Henning! :thumbleft:

As mentioned you'll need to factor in the cost of brake fluid, as it'll need a full system refresh and bleed after replacing the pump. BBA Raman refurbish them so there are ways should it be the culprit. Pedal position sensors are easily repaired also and not too expensive, and I've never had problems with cheap ebay wheel speed sensors. Have a look in the Wiki section at the buyers guide too, lots of good info on what to look for in that. Good luck! You can also check the wheels sensors using a multimeter at the plug where it connects to the loom (Front are on the turrets and backs are under the rear seats.

You'd get one of those leaflets that state that not enough postage has been paid, then hold you to ransom until you throw a ton more money at it!

No, thank you! :thumbleft: