tentonhammer

G-Shock GS1100 GIEZ - Beast is indestructable. Plus it's solar powered AND radio controlled, gone are the days of manually setting the time where ever you are in the world... ;) [ATTACH=CONFIG]51115[/ATTACH]

Agree with Stonejag - You might want to check the sizing etc. Don't get me wrong, I think pressed plates look WAY better than the standard ones and IMO they're easier to read, you don't get the awful glare across the plate that you do on standard plates. My car's gone through it's MOT 3 times with the rear pressed plate the way it is but the Police couldn't give a sh*t nowadays whether it sailed through it's MOT with them on or not. Ten Ton

Wow, that is one cleeean example. Good job man. Apart from the BMC A/F and manifold, was anything else replaced in the enigine bay to smarten it up or did you just go to town with the cleaning? Def want to smarten up my engine bay Ten Ton

Haven't tried the VR6 but I do own my own Valver... Figured it would be easier to work on, and from what I can tell it's certainly less complicated than the VR. Cheaper to run too without the loss of power. Probably worth mentioning as well that the 16V 2.0 converted me from 2 wheels to 4...

I'd double check with VW. Very tempted to do this myself actually, missus made me aware of a rattle above the rear seats headlining... Wish she hadn't told me now! keep us posted. Ten Ton

Very nice example, shame you had to let it go

Considering how rubbish the sunroofs (or rather sunroof mechs) are, this seems like a pretty good idea ---------- Post added at 10:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 AM ---------- However - Water draining into your windows as a result of smooth roof? I dunno, I drive with my window partially open all the time, even when it's raining.

Fixes like these are few and far between though, lets be honest!

Good on you, Plenty of other ways to get fit though - Get yourself down to a fight gym and keep our roads clear. lol

Be fussy ;) Nothing worse than tatty headlining seriously, not to mention how annoying it is when it's dangling in your face while you're driving! My sunroof lining is begining to come away and drops on my head from time to time, v-annoying... There's a complete grey liner on ebay at the moment, will ship from the U.S Ten Ton

Look awesome, grey area re whether or not they're endorsable though. BTW - I have a rear pressed plate on mine that meets correct sizing / font requirements etc but definately going to replace it as I don't particularly want 3 points on my license as a result, sod the fine. All you need is the wrong bobby on the wrong the day. Ten Ton ---------- Post added at 09:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:31 AM ---------- Abdul - Nice Rad btw I've just removed the Smoke tinting from my HL's, couldn't see a f***ing thing!

Ok so finally got round to sorting this out and after re-soldering the cable that had come away from the ISV - The car now idles as it should. Took all of half an hour to do and cost me f-all! As ever, couldn't have done it with out the forum and my partner in crime - My ol' man. Thumbs up to all involved. BTW - Drove in this morning and noticed temp light on dash is now flashing at me? Not sure whether this is related to ISV fault or not. Car isn't over heating, needle indicator on dash sits just above 75 degrees. Temp sensor perhaps? I could have knocked it when sorting the ISV. Will check Any ideas? Ten Ton

Thanks guys, Aim to get this sorted out today, will get back. Ten Ton ---------- Post added at 08:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 AM ---------- Roger - BTW no worries, I now know something about the VR6 I didn't know before ;)

Ah yes... the ISV. Makes perfect sense. Jim - Looks like you were right on the money mate. Just had the bonnet up, located ISV, and one of the wires has come away from the unit! Literally fell out of the terminal when I touched it. A simple re-solder and a clean up should hopefully sort it ;) Roger & Swift - I HAVE recently disconnected the battery actually, had to throw some charge in it a week or so ago. First time I have driven the car since the bat was put back in. Replaced a couple of fuses as well when the battery went back in - Nearside dipped headlight and nearside tail light. "Look at the Basic Settings routine in the Knowledge Base for the procedure" Would really like to know the correct setup procedure after batt installation - Where would I find this? Will def check all hosing etc for air leaks, as well as the plug / terminal under throttle body - Looks pretty filthy to be fair. Ten Ton

Revs jumping from 1000 - 1500 approx / Intermittently whilst idle and at 12mph, causing the car to lurch and bounce around. Hi guys I'm hoping you might be able to help me. I used the car this morning and noticed that the car is sitting at and jumping between 1000 and 1500 rpm approx whilst at idle and at low speeds. I'm sure revs should be lower than this when at idle? Revs certainly shouldn't be jumping up and down (rhythmically) as it is! Lurching / rev jumping is stopped by putting my foot on the gas or easing the clutch out (at low speeds only. Car does not lurch when at idle, just the rev needle is bouncing up and down). My initial thought was that it could be the timing that was out but logic would have it this would be across a wide range of revs, not just at 1000rpm. I suspect it's probably the coolant temp sensor or an air flow problem. Anyone got any ideas / had the same problem? Cheers, Ten Ton Corrado 16V 2.0 ---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ---------- Possibly a throttle issue perhaps? Cheers, Ten Ton

Cheapest I've found is 30 quid each - I can get S/H complete lamps for less! Ten Ton ---------- Post added at 03:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:24 PM ---------- Paint thinner in my lens perhaps to remove the smoke?

Thought so. Sh*t. It's the lens' I'm trying to replace really. Mine are smoked (painted glass type probably done by the previous owner) and I want to swap them for clear ones, brighten things up a little on the road. Was hoping I could swap my 92 HL's for 90's instead. Previous owner also installed HID's which go through the bulb covers on the back of the headlights, he done a bad job. Want to strip the HID's out and replace them with Super bright bulbs instead. Bring the front end back to it's stock format. Sealed and tight. Know anyone who has any clear lens' for sale/swap? Ten Ton

Will 1990 headlights from a 1.8 16v Corrado fit into a 1992 16v 2.0 Corrado? If someone could get back to me asap that would be great (seen replacement lights on eBay and auction ends in 2 hours!) Cheers folks, Ten Ton

UseOnceDestroy - lol I was looking at those too. Reflector orientation will be on the wrong side tho so gave em a miss My HL's are pretty terrible to be fair. Previous owner put HID's in them behind smoked lens! Don't get me wrong they look sweet but man, I'm driving 90% of the time in the dark nowadays and I can't see sh*t! The smoked lens have gotta go... and the HID's too. Pref need some new lens if anyone's got any?

Debadging - Depends on where you live. If you're from south London like me you DEBADGE!!

As seen on the Plate Market: What's the British Standard for number plates? The British Standard sets out the physical characteristics of the number plate. This includes visibility, strength and reflectivity. The British Standard also requires each number plate to be permanently and legibly marked with the following information: The British Standard number (currently BS AU 145d) The name, trademark or other means of identification of the manufacturer or component supplier (The company that made the plate) Name and postcode of the supplying outlet. Other options: A non-reflective border Euro-symbol with national identification letters ----------------------------- Looking more and more likely I have to remove the rear plate... No plate maker details, just a well visible, dimensionally correct, legal looking plate. Will have a look to see whether or not previous owner kept the reciept (presuming of course it was him that replaced the original rear plate - I thought current rear plate was original!) I doubt I'll have it tho leeeshad - Can you confirm this? My car's a 92 - Does this mean I'm exempt? RW1 - Cool thanks good info Scarlet - Not sure if I can proove when the plate was made which is a real ****ter :S Hear what you're saying about cracking down on guys using false plates, def need to sort that out Ten Ton

Thanks Stone for the heads up, appreciate it. My rear pressed plate sounds pretty similar to yours - it doesn't have plate suppliers name or post code on it. Why you need this on the there is beyond me... yet another thing the Police can get you on I suppose. Silly tho eh - "Oi! you crashed into my car, don't drive away I can't read who made your frrickin number plate!?" Other than that the plate looks totally legal. I MAY (reluctantly) change it in that case, it would be sods law I get done for it. Having said this though, it has gone through 4 MOT's this way... Always good to have this sorta thing confirmed. Cheers, Ten Ton

So, what's legal and what isn't now? Was having a chat with a mate this morning and he happened to mention watching something on TV the other night featuring (the dreaded) Surrey Police. He then went on to tell me that if I happened to cross paths with said old bill they might pull me over for a quiet verbal about the plates on my car, potentially endorsing me in the process. Not wanting any endorsments on my license I reakoned I'd run it by the forum before adjusting positioning and type of number plate(s) on the car. I'm pretty sure plates and plate locations are ok as the car's been through 4 MOT's with the setup this way! Firstly, I have an embossed rear number plate, located at typical spot on the boot of a Corrado (was like this when I bought the car). It's size is like any other rear plate, font size and style is like any other rear plate, colours are same as any other rear plate, looks like original plate. The only difference between mine and the industry standard is that the font's slightly embossed by 1-2mm (German type) and there are no small car dealership details under main font etc. Didn't even notice the embossing etc when I bought the car it's that subtle. Is the plate legal? Secondly, front bumper is smoothed so front number plate relocated and recessed slightly to new position under front bumper (was like this when I bought the car). Plate is the usual white and black, original font and size etc. Head on, you can read the plate clearly, when stood a foot or two away from the front of the car looking down you cannot see it (who can this close??) Been thinking about pulling the plate out slightly if necessary. Is the position of the plate legal? Cheers all, Ten Ton Corrado 1992 2.0 16V

Removing the front grille to get to the dead 12V is def the way to go, it's fiddly but with the right amount patience you can get it off (with the hood down) in a matter of minutes. So - If you happen to lock yourself out of your car because the car battery is dead and you are unable to unlock the car via central locking fob, or key etc - This is what you do.... Process: 1) Grab top edge of front grille on left and right side, gently pull outwards towards you. If it isn't budging, wriggle it a bit working it outwards at the same time. If you do end up snapping the clips doing this so what? Just tie the grille back on afterwards with some cable ties, you can do this internally so you won't even notice them. It does mean however if you lock yourself out again you'll have to break the whole grille off next time. See pics for clip and hole locations. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49989[/ATTACH] 2) When you've got the top edge of the grille out lift the whole thing upwards towards your face to remove it completely from the car. 3) Locate hood cable. This is located at the roof of the grille cavity, it's a long black cable that runs horizontally along the front of the car just above the rad. Pop the hood by pulling right side of hood cable left, and left side of hood cable right, pulling down towards the floor slightly when you do this. See pic. You will here a click for each if done correctly. Open the hood. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49990[/ATTACH] 4) Remove dead car battery - Negative terminal first. 5) Charge car battery. If it can't be charged then get a new one. 6) Fit battery back into car - Positive first. 7) Fit grille and close the hood. Open the doors with your central locking fob. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49991[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]49993[/ATTACH] 8) Crack open cold one, admire handy work. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49992[/ATTACH] And there you go! Job done. Note: Make sure battery isn't dead in key fob before doing any of this. If there is an alarm on the car this may go off the moment you connect the battery, it didn't for me but it might for you! My alarm did immobilize the car though, a simple reset of the alarm sorted this out. Ten Ton,

PhilT is pretty much on the money, doesn't take long Anyone tried the MOMO Anotomic? http://www.b-gdirect.com/momo-gear-shift-knobs/momo-anatomic-gear-knob-black-leather.html