HummuH

Also meant to say, if you ditch the CCM I'd probably take it off you, it has the 1st and 2nd gears I'm looking for.

2nd hand, new items are bonkers money. Either find someone who's split a box or just buy any box with the compatible FD you need. Loads of 02A boxes use 3.684 FD's. There's also a load of others that use a 3.647 FD, including the CDM which I think (not 100% sure) is the Corrado VR6 gearbox, is that the box you have? If so, I'd just swap the diff over and see how you get on, there won't be a huge amount of difference between that and a 3.684 FD.

I run a 02A CBA box with a 3.94 FD. At Knockhill, I'm maxxing out at appx 120mph on main straight, that's right at the top of 4th gear on 16" wheels. I'm running a lot more power and torque though. I'd suggest you want to use the shorter final drive at Knockhill and that will also give you plenty of headroom for circuits down south although I suspect that you'll never use 5th gear anyhow. See how you get on with the Peloquin. I ditched mine after the 1st season, couldn't get traction out of the hairpin and it just didn't agree with Knockhill. Tran-X with adjusted ramping sorted that out. I'll be up on Sat if you fancy a blether.

On the longer drive shaft, there should be a thick plastic/rubber "ring" that sits close to the outer CV end. I've always chopped mine off and run without them.

Edinburgh mate, not a million miles away.

As per title, looking for both wings from late/VR6 Corrado. Also need front bumper but do not need a splitter. Cheers.

Could be a number of things, check the easy ones first: Wheel Balance? Out of shape tyre? (will be visible on balancing machine) Play in bearings? Drive shaft's running true? Wishbones and ball joints look OK? Excess play in CV joints or drive flange? Sticking caliper? Engine / gearbox mounts all tight?

Ta! Get some!

First race is Sunday 5th April, few test sessions before then hopefully.

Hehe, cheers. I have no idea how it's going to turn out. Wishbone are now bang on level though so a good starting point. I'm going for something pretty out there, no idea how it's going to look but going to give it a shot. Details to follow....

Cheers, that's quite reassuring to know it's not just me.

Got some more work done before the car was dropped off at the body shop at the weekend. First up was a trial fit on the brakes. We had changed quite a lot with new ball joints and steering arms etc, so we knew the general geometry/clearances were going to be very different. So, we built the brakes up and got them on the hub. Needless to say, wasn't plain sailing! What I had overlooked was that the ball joints were very different. As you'll see in the image below they are hexagonal in shape at the end and stick out past the sleeve where as the OEM ball joints simply have a circular sleeve round the joint itself. With the drop pins they also now sit about 3 inches lower than before. What this meant was that on full lock, the inner face of the disc was fouling the ball joints. This made Scotty happy as the solution to the problem was to grind down the ball joints, gulp! Plenty of clearance now though: So, got the brakes fully installed and test fitted a wheel, all looking good. With the new wheels and spacers on there's a bit of poke out of the arches as expected so hopefully the new arches will fit well without being too extreme. Also got the new tailgate fitted before she was packed off. Hopefully 3 to 4 weeks then in for the new livery/wrap.

If you've got all the bits then why not. Most OEM bits handle much more power fine. I run almost 400bhp through mine and it gets properly worked on a regular basis. Just make sure you get decent bushes, bearings (SKF) and CV's (GKN), everything else should be up to the job unless you particularly want to change it. Bear in mind the 5 stud Corrado VR's had wider wings to take account of the wider track amongst other things. I think all late Corrados had the wider wings so you may already have them.

For the front, I think you'll need: wishbones (with bushes), drive-shafts (need to check drive-flange fitting into gearbox/diff), hub-carriers, bearings, caliper carriers, anti-roll bar, discs and hubs. The rear is a bit more straight forward as most VW rear beams are the same width and you can use stub axle spacers to get desired width/track. Then you need to choose which 5-stud conversion you go for as VR6, Mk3 and Passat B3/B4 all have slightly different track width. It's a relatively easy swap once you have all the bits. Why do you want to convert to 5 stud? If you want to do any sort of track/racing work, I personally think staying 4 stud is the better options unless you go down the much more challenging TTRS type route.

Plenty! ET20 with 20mm spacers so basically running 0 offset. Could be great, could be a disaster, time will tell.

Got a wee bit more done over the past week. Getting the subframe back on proved challenging with the car on the ground but with the help of the trusty Dremel and Scotty "Hammer" Watkins lying underneath the car for four hours we got there eventually. We could then get the wishbones back in (was the spacers on new wishbone bushes that were causing us the hassle) and get the front end built up again. Gave us a chance to see how the new ball joints and Track Rods would come together. Still all needs tightened up but other than having to chop some threads off the rods, all went together fine. Took some time out to get the new tyres on the new wheels, will be interesting to see if some extra width on the tyres helps or hinders lap times. Ran out of time so couldn't get the new brakes installed but had a good rummage through to check all was good and present which it seems to be. Should have that done by end of week then off to the body shop she goes!

That's a decent starting point and you can upgrade pads if you need to along the way.

DS3000's far too aggressive IMO, particularly if any road driving. They're an old compound now and there's better newer compounds out there.

Useless for track work IMO. To really get brake temps down you need to get a feed very close to the disc/caliper rather than just stuffing more air in the arches. Get about 4m of decent flexi ducting and feed to both sides, ideally with the intake where the fogs are then cable tied underneath the engine. There are some brackets kicking about that you can attach to the struts which hold the ducting about 1 inch away from the disc but they are custom made jobs. That helps. TBH, I wouldn't bother unless you really need to. Knockhill is the hardest circuit on brakes that I've ever driven but unless you do bonkers long sessions you should be fine and if you do suffer fade etc, I'd start with better discs/pads/fluid/hoses rather than jumping straight down the brake cooling route. I've done a lot of testing on what does/doesn't work at Knockhill so happy to give a helping hand if ever needed. Dreghorn's my local V-Power depot too! Looking forward to seeing it out.

Very nice. If going to Knockhill try and come on one of the TrackScotland days. We usually have two Corrado's and a few Mk2's out. Keep us posted, looks fun.

EDIT: thinking about it, all VR6's are post 92 cars aren't they? That means it will have to come off a pre 92 4 stud car then.

Are 4 stud and 5 stud racks different or were the racks the same across the range and all subject to the spline change in 1992? I haven't been able to find a definitive answer to this but all I know is I need a UJ from an early pre-1992 rack. My current UJ is for a post 1992 rack and the refurbed rack I have is a pre 1992 rack, so 22 splines.

That would be great if you could. Cheers.

Thanks. What year of car did it come off? Looks like it could be post 92. Are the last 3 part no's 558? Cheers.

Need a UJ or knuckle, the bit that connects steering rack to column, from a pre 1992 Corrado. Ideally from a G60/4 stud as I don't know if 5 stud rack differs from 4 stud. Cheers.