HummuH

Didn't realise that, thought the hub carriers would be largely the same.

Might be worth speaking to Jarrod at SCCH. There can't be that much difference between 4 and 5 stud to get them to work is there?

Got a bit more done over the weekend, feels like making progress now. Tom and Scott at Brayon Classic Engineering welded some ball joint extenders to the hub carriers and drilled out for new Track Rod Ends. Then they got it. Why haven't I discovered a wire brush attachment for angle grinder until now? Got the Powerflex Black bushes in now. Did a test fit of the rain cover. Needs a bit of trimming and some clips but should look good.

Wee bit of an update: After butchering the doors which took quite a bit of weight out they were still pretty heavy. Picked up a cheap and cheerful hole-saw kit and went to town. Things were starting to get a bit "floppy" in places so had to be careful to retain some structure and keep the door rigid. Doors finished: Wishbones tarted up: Sub-frame given some tlc after attack from the angle grinder: Drive shafts balanced and painted (badly): New wheels: New steering rack: Some Carbon: Lots of bits to fit: New brakes hopefully incoming next week so can get it built back up again.

Look really good when they're dark like that.

I think the TD Pro Race 1.2 suit the Corrado well. All TD Race wheels are very well made from my experience. I've just bought a set in 17x8 size for the race car. Image below is of the car on the 16" version. New 17's: Car on the 16's:

185mph at Cadwell, in what car? I've raced against some quick cars at Cadwell and nothing gets close to that speed, 150'ish max.

That's interesting. I don't run any shims on the rear of my polybush'd race car and run OEM camber and toe settings. My rear end is very much planted, probably too much so for a FWD race car but I adjust pressures and dampers to suit. Another Corrado I race against runs shims and he has one of the most skittish rear ends I've ever seen, moves around in a straight line over bumps and undulations. Not saying it's the shims, but interesting that I run without them and have a very solid and consistent rear end throughout the course of a 12 to 15 min race.

Track only - Poly. Road - OEM.

See, I don't like them. Very well made wheels no doubt, but a bit heavy and like a sponge for heat. I must have had (no joke) about 20 folk approach me to buy them. Had them refurbished silver now:

Hello :)

This one is on 16x7.5 ET35, again 10mm spacers on rear, 5mm on front.

Not exactly what you're looking for, but this image was of me running 16x7 ET20, 10mm spacer on rear, 5mm on front. Changing to 17x8 ET20 next year.

Interesting project. Very keen to see how you get on with weight distribution as this is what I'm focussing on right now. Before this years modifications, I was running weighting balance of 66:34 F/R with 673kg across front axle and 342 across rear axle, and that was with 15l of fuel. Car fully stripped out and race modified but retaining std fuel tank. My target is 60/40 on completion and I'm very keen to see how you progress towards 50/50 as I think that will be quite a challenge! Keep it up!

:) ta!

Is mine Sherry Pearl? Not sure.... Doesn't look like it this one.... But does in this one.....

Hi all, got a new Facebook Page set up to detail the winter upgrades and also video's, updates etc from the 2015 season. Please help out a skint racer by dropping by and liking the page: MD Racing Facebook Page Many thanks!

Knockhill's the hardest track on brakes I've found so far, 3 hard braking points in succession. The brakes have always suffered, even before the 20vT. The calipers I have would be excellent for fast road/occasional track work, not quite up to racing.

Thanks. Currently running Wilwood Superlights, 310mm under 16" wheels. Good brakes but not really up to the job at Knockhill, get too hot. Waiting on delivery of a new AP Racing 330mm set-up which will go under 17x8 wheels.

Cheers mate. The weight saving will make a decent difference!

Interior pretty much done now, new seat and a few other bits and bobs back in. Just need to install something to protect ECU from passenger feet and that should be it for the inside.

Nope. They were only there because at the time cars had to have working headlights and indicators. They were truly pish and defo not LED's!

Which ones? Current ones are OEM. Previous ones were homemade generic lights and indicators mounted to an aluminium sheet, pop riveted. Cover was just Lexan. was the worst set-up I've seen lol

OK, starting to see some actual progress. Now the interior is almost done (for this year anyway) we could start to figure out how the weight saving was going. So, up onto the scales to find out how much weight we had saved from removing the heater matrix and chopping up the dash. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much, probably trying to limit expectations more than anything. So, in the same state this is what the car weighed before the matrix/dash work: This is what it weighed after the work: So, 922.5kg down to 911kg, an 11.5kg saving. Have to say, I was delighted with that. To put that into context, at Knockhill I'm told it's generally considered that a 10kg loss equates to 0.1 sec gain in lap time, in theory of course. A big hill to pull yourself up and heavy braking zones mean weight is critical to a good lap time. Might sound irrelevant but when your competing against folk who are consistently 0.2 to 0.3 secs a lap quicker it starts to make a difference over the course of a 12 to 15 lap race. Anyway, now that we had seen some "achievement" from our graft, we could start on other aspects of the weight loss. The doors were getting it. The weighed in at a massive 22kg and 23kg when we removed them, still can't figure out why one door is 1kg heavier than the other but hey ho. So this is what an unmolested (almost) door looks like: So, Scotty got all excited and unleashed the angle grinder. After being deafened for a couple of hours, this is what we were left with: Two doors butchered. I will smooth the cuts out and got some nice door cards to install from LWS Design. On initial weighing, we've cut 6.5kg out of each door so roughly 13kg saving across both doors. So, in the initial phase we've saved 24.5kg already. Other items that will further reduce weight and guestimated saving: GRP bonnet: 10kg GRP tailgate: 8kg Race battery: 4kg Bumper reinforcement: 2kg Conservative estimates I hope but we'll see. A couple of other random pics of the newly tarted interior, sorry for sharty quality, the workshop lights are a nightmare:

Not much to report as progress is slow even though there's been many hours spent on it! After installing the new heater set-up, next job was to do some painting of the interior and then to a tidy up of the wiring in behind the dash. Once that was complete, we got the butchered and painted dash back in: Then I spent far too long cutting carbon fibre to fill the blanks now left in the dash. For ease, we decided to keep some of the original switches: I can now plough on and finish off the rest of the interior painting and general tidy up. Should hopefully be finished with the internals later this week so will update further after that. At that stage, we can weigh it again and see how much weight has been saved from the dash butchering and new heater installation.