g60bv

, i found my car stepped out. late 92 no abs. :( . and after changing everything. and after the advise of many top tuners, i changed the hard pipe from the servo to the front near side , problen solved, it would seem that there was a slight blockage in the pipe, possible from new, it only came apparent when upgrading to the brembos, i was getting 450 kgf on the offside front and only 250kgf on the near side, the rears were equall at 205kgf, , but now its coming back so i may need to replace the ft off side. it's really only apparent when stamping on the brakes at over 100. but it can catch you off guard. it used to try to spin the car round, a true pant staining experiance. :oops: take it to a brake centre and get them to test the braking force. and if their off and after bleeding they still aren't equal try a new master cyinder, and rework the pipes. oh and i did try new rear bushes, , christ they were fun putting in :shock:

my friends got a 22b, it IS amazing, it's gonna be my choise ofter mt corrado. probably, althou insurance is more evil than date rape

sorry thats with green light, and includes GTi membership discount. but no track days.

24yrs old g60 all mods declaired,, limited miles 6k per year. 3 yrs no claims £749 fully comp and a rediculouse excess of 375. roll on my 25th b'day.

heres a pic of a pic of the conditioning rad. it also has a push type fan on the front, i have a switch in the dash board. i normally use this when stuck in traffic, the coolant rad has been removed so i could fit it in better, and the old intercooler pipe are still in place.

i'm running it through the screen washer bottle, this way there's 4 litres plus in the system and keeps cooler for longer, i useed to had a small swirl pot but the total water content was so little the water couldn't loose the heat fast enough, and the cooler suffered from heat soak,, the washing liquid has suffient cooling properties in, the water in the water injection has 40/60 methtonal, i did use windscreen wash, but methonal is better. :lol:

yep and euro car parts, it does make the job easier, once the old bearings are removed the new ones can be pressed in and put back on in no time, thus reducing expensive labour costs,

yep and euro car parts, it does make the job easier, once the old bearings are removed the new ones can be pressed in and put back on in no time, thus reducing expensive labour costs,

sorry, not the whole hub, but the section which your wheel bolt to, the bit that spins,.

any good garage will have a press, my friends needed a 20 ton press to get them out.! this was after we were in my garage for 3 hours hitting it with hammers. back then i didn't know they were pressed in and out :oops: . i did mine in my friends work shop, he had a 6 ton press, and it struggled, .once the whole hub is off it should be easy enough o bung a guy a drink to do it, also and it's not conpulsaory new hubs, cos when the bearing is pressed out the end inner section stays put, and is very difficult to remove, the hubs are only £15 each, and it saves a lot of sweat.

it is quiet, but you still get that whistling on part throttle, does any one know how to stop this, it's getting really annoying. but it's hard to hear anything over the induction noise, it's really too loud. :(

the catch tank is from the place in croydon stroeve or something, their a ton. :shock: if you know how to fabricate alloy you could make one up easily. the main problem i have is you get petrol, oily smells back in the car throu the fan intake, , the charge cooler heat exchanger is from a lotus esprite turbo, 8) with the water inj off i see 30'c intake temp, and with water on using 0.6mm jet it drops 20'c, its the summer months when it really shows , i use a ATC, gauge, ( actual charge temp), it's digital, the sensor sits in the throttle, and the screen is a perfect size to fit in the blaking plate above the fog switch, i'll get pictures, off boost and on,. i've seen some on ebay but they are different to mine, i got mine from albanes car clinic, out of performance ford mag, would you belive, all the cossie boys use them, i used to use a jabba sport charge cooler but it wasn't very good, i was concidering using the corrado g60 intercooler's heat exchanger and making that in to a charge cooler, if you can tig weld alloy it shouldn't be very hard and would be very efficent.

right i've worn my tyres out and i've been offered some 205 45 17as fitted to the mini, but will they be ok. the 205 40 17 are ok but the ride can get anoying, i've got koni coil overs on so it can all be set up, or should i look out for some 16's .. i just want some more comfort. i run bbc rc's which look awsome in 17's. althou this pic was taken b4 the koni's were on.

right then now i've sorted out this computer i can finally put pictures on for all the world to see, :lol: hope you enjoy. note. isv reroute and catch tank.

pictures of bobbins,

yeah baby, sorted it, about time to, :oops: had my camera set to take the picture in massive mode, D'oh, :oops: the hose is the original with a section of hoover hose which terminates under the car,

tring pictures? :roll:

plastic probably will work but 3mm ally is so easy to cut and drill, plus it looks right on the charger. i went to the volks show at sandown last week end, and bought a small air filter, about 5" long 3.5" in dia with a 2" inlet. an this will fit perfectly off the 2nd inlet and fits snuggly under the collant return hose. it only cost £8, i'm just gettinng a new plate made up and and the tube on, should be ready by next no rice, i'll show it off. 8) i now have pictures of the boost return tube under the car, i just need to e-mail them to some one to put on here for me, as my computer wont let me :cry: any takers..

don;t muck about with tarox, seat use brembo as standard for a reason, infact loads of manufacture's use brembo, all for a good reason, there bloody brillient and for under £500, it really shouldn't be a problem, remember never skint on the brakes. they will last the life of the car, once there done. just enjoy them, 8) and negative -g's are just as fun as the positve, and a damed sight cheaper to get. i've had miine on for over a year, the pads look like new the disks are as good, no bluing at all. replacents are cheap, even from seat. and euro car parts and gsf are going so stock parts for them soon, even cheaper. do it , you'll never regret it, even if it means saving thart bit longer., as for so space, it's not the diameter that the real prob althou 16" are the min. it's the cailper clearance to the spokes, i 've got bbs rc in 17" and 35 or 38 et, they JUST fit, about 3mm between them :shock:

i'e got mine lowered .. well enough so the top of the tyre sits in line with the wheel arch (205 40 17) and it does n't knock at all, i had 3 in the car on sunday, going to volks fest thing at sandown, and it only knocked a bit when i caned it and giong over massive speed bumps, thou i never had my back box hit the suspension bolt, it's a good 2" away from that,

measure the bottom of the spring plate with the bottom ridge on the strut with a measuring tape, and then adjust the other one to the same distance, rear ones, the same with fronts, the measurement may not be the same for front and back , but will be for each pair, if this helps. i'm in the process of fitting my koni's, i did the back last friday, i'm also waitin for the top mounts to turn up, i should be doing the fronts on this friday, :D but i need two tyres £97 each :cry: :cry: :mad:

i went to my local tyre and exhaust place. or 'sh?t' fit. ask one of the monkey's working there for a bobbin or cotton reel type exhaust mount, usually they give them to you, some times a couple of quid, i seen two types, a small ish one about 20mm in diameter and 20mm in length, with 15mm thread in m5, i used these for the back of the back box on new brackets, i also had to bend the whole back box, cos i found that if you get one section good then another section knocks, under the heat sheld where the spare tyre bulge is. and a larger one about 40 mm and 40 mm with m6 thread, i used this one for the tail pipe, completly cut off the original hanger and throw away, including the one on the exhaust, make up new brackets and weld on to the exhaust. this way you can position the tail pipe perfectly in the bumper. hope this is any help, i'm still having difficulties getting pictures on here,

just seem the pics. blimy, my friend bought a low milage golf vr, 28k onit, took it to mister vw for some warrantee parts, abs sensor i think, when one of the apprenties thought he would take it out for a rag. he lost control, went throu a brick wall rolled the car twice and landed in a deep pond, the car was a complete right off. vw gave my friend £1800 and told him to get lost, justise ah

MINT :shock:

the rubber ring type hangers are pooh, abit of heat and they go slopy., i'v tried different mounts, welded on plates and bars, but nothing works as well as the bobbin, you get m4 or m5 threads out of each end and a cotton reel type rubber in the middle, . then all you need to do, is weld a straight metal plate on which allows you to position the system exactly where you want it, (about 10mm above the rear axel), since doing mine is been a dream to drive, i really didn't realise just how much noise the exhaust was making, i always thought it was the suspension, :roll: