Dec

Yeah, I've got my hands on a 02j Golf 1.8T gearbox with the right ratios that I'm currently in the process of mirror polishing. The driveshaft flanges on it are 110mm though, and the standard 100mm 02a Corrado ones have a different fitting. Hence why I need to get my hands on some 100mm 1.8T beetle flanges......very difficult to find without having to resort to buying an entire beetle gearbox though :roll:

Smoked pic of mine from about a year ago.

Its got two coats of primer and 4 coats of hammerite. Should hopefully keep it rust free for a few years anyway! Just need to get my hands on a set of 100mm 1.8T Beetle driveshaft flanges now and the new engine can be put into place!

Well as it has been pretty much raining non-stop here for the last week I decided to get some work on the car that I could do in the relative comfort of the garden shed! :lol: Fully degreased and stripped the rear subframe. Primed, and recoated. Fitted new wishbones + balljoints. Full Poly bush kit for the wishbones and anti-roll bar. New rear engine mount and gearbox mount. also stripped the front subframe while I was at it.

afaik the one with the connector with the 90 deg bend on it attaches to the plug nearest to the firewall.

Both of them attach to the underside of the inlet elbow right before the throttle body. :wink:

I cant believe the amount of C's that are being written off / broken for parts in the last few weeks! Ebay has been full of people breaking them lately! Not good at all :cry:

It's the fan overrun switch :wink: As blue95 said it bolts onto the front left hand side (as you facing the engine) of the rocker cover, nearest the alternator.

:lol:...yeah probably! At the moment, the thought of that bit of wiring being in view hasn't really worried me enough to plan anything drastic to hide it! I'll take a look into what can be done tho :wink: :lol:

Nah, I don't think I'll be going that far! Most of the wiring has to come out for the Megasquirt, and a custom loom made up for that. Only orig wiring will be for the headlights, indicators horn etc. I'll be checking over that to make sure the wires are sill in decent nick ,and re-wrapping it to clean it up. But that's about it!

Yeah, too late to go back now! Thinking of taking an hour or so off work in the evenings to get down to the garage to get a bit more work done on it! Free time over the weekends is kinda limited, so has resulted in progress being painfully slow!

figured I'd stick up this photo as the old engine is finally out of the car! Next step is removing the rear subframe, strip and repaint it. Got a full set of wishbone/anti roll bar poly bushes to go in along with new wishbones, balljoints trackrods, mounts etc. Broke numerous tools while trying to get a few of the bolts off the subframe tho...so that put an end to my Sunday work, almost before I had even started! :roll: Engine bay will also get a good cleanup. Then its onto the re-assemly stage!

yeah....but he said that he had a 4 slat standard late grille on there before he put the de-badged grill on :wink:

Late spec (3/4 slat) grilles wont fit into the slam pannel of a early spec rado without some modification of the grille or slam pannel. The early type only have two fitting 'posts' on the bottom side of the grille, while the late grilles have three. The clips at the top are also different. If your new late spec grille fit straight in, I guess your slam pannel has been swapped over at some stage in the past.

Nothing wrong with a VRS, my plan is to replace the 405 with an VRS Octavia come next year!!!

yep, thats the one!....takes a few seconds to check if its working properly with a multimeter! Just make sure that the plugs are getting power until the glowplug light on the dash goes out and then for a few seconds afterwards. alternatively, you can hear the relay click when it switches the plugs off, so just make sure it doesn't click too quickly after the ignition has been turned to position II :wink:

Yeah alomst essential when doing the plugs on the Pug...I dropped loads of bolts and washers down gaps in the engine, when trying to get the things back onto the plugs! :roll:

Yup....sounds the same! Intercooler + a load of breather pipes have to come off to get any sort of access to the plugs!.....and it's still a real pain to get at them with all this stuff removed! the plug right in behind the fuel pump assembly is by far the worst of them!

I have a very similar problem with my 405.....takes a few goes heating up the glowplugs before it will start.....and general unhappyness starting from cold! Changed the glowplugs first (one of the most awkward and painstaking car jobs I've ever done, you need hands the size of a 3yr old to access the things!). Didn't really help very much in getitng it started though. I was thinking it may be the relay/timer, but I checked it the other day with a multimeter and the glowplugs are getting power for the correct amount of time. Propblem with mine seems to be that the glowplugs are only getting 8v! So that would probably explain their general uselessness! Will have to investigate further this weekend when I'm fitting a new starter motor to it (also a pig of a job) :roll:

Yeah, I can pretty easily make up some custom brackets to push the radiator slightly back into the engine bay, if needed. I'll take the camera down to the garage when I'm down there tomorrow morning and have a bit of an experiment with making things fit. The slam pannel, bumper and the rad are currently off the car, so should allow me to easily move bits around.

I know!......it's a bit bulkier than I originally thought! I'll be taking it down to the garage to see how/where/if I can get it in there tomorrow morning. AS for wiring the MS, I figured it would be easier/safer to get the Relay board. It wasn't too expensive when ordered with the main board (to save on shipping costs). It has all the inputs and output nicely laid out and labeled so there is no messing about. I'll be keeping most of the orig wiring in place until I have the MS up and running correctly. Then I'll remove all the old wiring thats not needed anymore. I'd like to keep as many of the MFA functions as possible though so some of the wwiring for them will be staying.

Well changing the subject completely!.....but it is my thread after all :lol: :lol: :-P This monster showed up this morning!....Just hope I can manage to make it fit now!

I've seen a few (on a Toyota I think) that have used a t-piece to take the oil feed from a pressure sender. The sender is just screwed into the side leg of the t-piece, so I assume you could keep the temp reading that way!

Cheers! :wink: Yeah thats what I heard! Water is very good for dissipating the heat from the oil in the turbo on cooldown.

At the moment the plan is to run the waterlines fom the inlet/exit pipes to the heater matrix. I have all the fittings to fit the oil return straight into the sump. Just need to sort out where to get the oil feed from. Was thinking getting it from the oil lines for the oil cooler, I have plenty of time to sort it out though!