colinstubbs

Not really up on injectors and such, but you would only get a squirt of fuel on the 'suck' stroke :shock: before the squeeze and the bang and the blow :gag: It should keep pulsing though.............. I think I need to go and lie down before Toad finds this thread :norty: I trust that wasn't too technical for you :lol: :lol: The 'slowly turning bit' is the rotor arm :lol:

It is only in the last two years i've been able to push Adrian Flux down, they always had the best deal, this year i got £90 chopped off the price, £400 down to £310, they had to wave their admin fee but it don't bother me!!!! And yes many mods even if not performance ones take a while to go through, 40 with 14yrs NCB, Get in!!!

MNuTs the 16v motor ain't in the Bentley manual, long spark plug socket will be needed and stick with the bosch 4 electrode spark plugs, they're longlife so only need changing every 30,000 miles

I've got a second set of headlamp protectors with some fitted and just swop them as required.

The straight horizontal ones come off okay but they too have a metal insert and can be bent if you're not a bit careful. I've had mine off several times >snigger!

When my master cylinder went I got the slave done as a precaution at the same time, especially as it's a piece of p1$$ compared to the master cylinder!! The master cylinder was rotten inside!

Nevermind, built in indicators look great until your lights are on and people can't see the buggers!!!

Oh and there is a screw at the bottom rear and a clip at the front edge, the screw of which holds on the black triangular trim by the mirror.

All i know is that they're bonded to the door on the inside edge, sorry.

3-in1 do a Heavy Duty Cleaner Degreaser, foams up bit like shaving cream, 'Tis also Citrus flavour!

You don't have to be mad but it may help! I wanted the one touch functionality of the later sunroof buttons and the nicer panel but found the plugs were different so needed a later motor :mad2:, I then found the later motor fouled on the early frame, Doh! Simple option would have been to change the frame to a later one, but that runs the risk of buying a dog that breaks once swapped! :nono: So, having faith in my current sunroof (watch this space!! :cuckoo: ) i opted for modding the motor, which in the end was quite simple although admittedly a bit of a risk as I was unable to dismantle the motor at that end to see what was under the metal to be removed. As it turned out there was just a bit of white plastic and a black rubber bush(?). Suffice to say I can see no reason for the cutting of the plastic to impair to function of the motor which now offers up to the frame perfectly although the spacer plate is not required due to the relative drive-gear height compared to the early motor. Just hope the motor works okay now! I think I've sussed the wiring out, I'll let you know if it all works or not!!!! :lol:

The pins connect to each other via a plastic sleeve that fits over a lever on the lock mech. be careful or it'll break like my drivers side has............must get round to fixing that sometime extend the list

The fronts are glued to the door and have a metal insert which can bend, £150 a side or there abouts if you bugger them up!! :shock:

LMAO! All that for an Astra???? :cuckoo:

I'd rather walk than drive a corsa, my wife has a 2000 model and it's horrible and plasticky.

Chin up! At least it hasn't dumped it's water pump the day before the MOT like mine did!!! Remember, there's always someone worse off than you somewhere!! Good luck though Nikki!

Or just use big molegrips on the socket!

I'm pretty sure you're spot on there, but I don't want to lose the one touch malarky. :( The one touch malarky is what i wanted in the first place and i can't be arsed getting a scrap late roof which may well then break so I'm gonna be grinding!!! Might try and do it in situ - how's that for lazy???? :wink:

I think you'd be a bit lucky somehow. I think you're gonna have to 'fettle' the frame somehow. I've got the same issues putting in the later switches and them having 6 pin connectors instead of 3-pin. I've now got a late 6-pin motor and worked out which wires to connect to what, but I'm gonna have to do some grinding to fit it. The later motor drive-cog is also not so proud of the casing as the early one so I'll probably have to fit it without the spacer plate, not quite sure yet. We could probably get away with grinding a bit off both the motor and the frame. It'll be interesting anyhow!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: As I understand it the later motor needs the extra wires for the internal limit switches for the one-touch open/close. Is that right or am i talking complete Balls? If I'm right you could use an early motor but lose one touch functionality, I'm guessing!

Welcome to the forum. :wave: Try checking for vacuum leaks or splits in your air pipes to the throttle body, the plastics can crack and the rubbers split too. Cleaning the ISV may help too. If in doubt try using the Search function, most problems have been encountered before somewhere. 8)

Both times I've had this it was a delaminating rear tyre :shock:

Stealers will want £50-odd!

For future ref water pump pulley number V027 121 031

IIRC the front and rear seals are just push fits cos the screens are bonded in. The sides are complete units at £400 a side from the Stealers, Or 219 Euros +p&p from ARZ The Bentley manaul tells you how to cut out the rubber seals to replace the complete unit. People have managed to remove the side seals in the past but the manual doesn't tell you how.

Welcome to the Forum, loads of advice here. The Valver certainly looks quite nice, i have similair with 180k on it, and it's fine! Check out The Corrado Forum Buying Guide