Orkius

Hi all This one is now sold, pending collection. Thanks

Hello All Time has come to part ways with one of the Corrados, so I can concentrate on the other. Up for sale is this one which some regular forum members may recognise. This is a 1992 Aqua Blue Pearl VR6 with 24v engine conversion and many extras and other work gone into it. Please check out the original build thread here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?80155-Corrado-Part-Duex-24V-Aqua-Blue-She-s-gone for all the details. You’ll see the work that has gone in. It’s been a very reliable car and the only things I’ve really had to do is replace both front wheel bearings and hubs, radiator top elbow, and recently the clutch slave cylinder and had a small crack in the sump welded up. MOT until August 2019 It has the potential to be a great car with a little tlc and attention to the bodywork. The good bits / Spec • Corrado 24v with the AUE engine. • 312mm brakes with Mk4 Brake Servo and Master Cylinder with Teves 20 4 Channel ABS System. • Bilstein B12 Suspension • Mk4 Climate control (without aircon) • 02J Gear Linkage • 16 Speedline Vento Cup Race Wheels • Cruise Control • Double Din Headunit with Sat Nav and 32GB Micro SD Card • Uprated Headlight Wiring Loom • Aero Wipers • Clean cloth interior, this is still in excellent condition, no rips or tears and the bolsters are holding up • Uprated cooling fan • New Old Stock Steering Wheel • Cat 1 Alarm with Certificate There are a number of bad points for full disclosure • Bodywork, many dents and lots of lacquer peel in numerous places and cracked paint on plastic surfaces like the bumper. A some of small areas of rust. Hopefully these can be seen in the photos • Alloy wheels could do with a refurb to make perfect • Timing chains are making noise, but they have since I bought the car, performance seems ok so was going to tackle this at a clutch change but it has not needed one. • ABS light comes on. I imagine just a sensor out but I have not been able to determine which one. • Very slight coolant leak. I have changed the top radiator elbow and seal as this was definitely leaking but it still seems to loose coolant. Needs topping up about once a month or so on daily drive duty or after a very long run. • Sunroof does not work. Both tilt and slide and on top of this the control switch is also broken. • Immobiliser has been bypassed as this started playing up and at random times not allowing the car to start. Remote central locking still works though • Some rattles from the rear interior trim. Typical problem • A stone chip to one of the headlamps. It has been sealed with clear epoxy which has discoloured Located near Bournemouth call me to view etc 07730463275 £1500 ono Thanks for looking James photos via below link https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8umj0xhvtcvb81o/AABbemYjftc16CJsTFQcClmBa?dl=0

Hi Troy. Thanks for the reply. That's how I understood from researching the net. But good to get some first hand confirmation to check my thinking was right. Was planning to leave both the in-tank pump and the external one in the swirl pot (the big plastic box in the pic if I'm right) but just delete the accumulator. Will see how that goes then. Cheers James Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Hi all. So I've been working under the car and pulled off the external fuel pump business. Any metal part is literally flaking off I'm my hands. So looking to replace bits to freshen it up. I'm have a 1.8t conversion and was wondering if anyone knows if I can delete the fuel pressure accumulator circled in the pic, and go straight to the fuel filter from the pump? As I understand it it's required to keep the pressure up on the old kjet system. But I've not been able to find any info for the mk4s having anything similar. Any advice appreciated. Cheers! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

I did the 1.8t conversion myself. A bit like you wanted to give something like that a go. It was fairly simple to do and as said loads of info out there. I went with qpeng which made it easy to wire up. Full 180 motor with turbo and look off eBay around £600. Qpeng kit about the same iirc. And a bunch of other bits to make exhaust, turbo pipework, intercooler, vr clutch rtf. Probably looking around £1500 to £2000. If you have the space and time to buy a donor to strip it would probably be worth it. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

seconds please if not taken thanks

Having done a spray job when doing up my bug I did this myself with no prior experience. practice makes perfect so have a go on something else before to get the mix right and practice your technique. I would say avoid doing it in a garage especially if you have been doing other work in there. I found that oil in the air and dust falling from everywhere ruined every attempt. The best results I had were under a car port with both ends blocked off and the whole thing lined out with plastic sheeting (looked like a scene from Dexter!) Keep it as sealed as possible. this not only stops stuff flying in, it also allows anything in the "booth" to settle and stops any wind from affecting the spray direct out of the gun. Also even on a mildly warm day if there's any sun on it, it will get nice and toasty inside which helps with drying the paint. I would also agree on avoiding the 2k.

cheers. will pm for price and postage on the fogs

Hi Graphite are those early fogs? I would be interested if they are still available. also would you have a late drivers side window switch in that lot??

yeah I should be more sociable and pop out to some more events, I have met a couple of other local forum members at some things. always good to check out some other cars. I'll keep an eye out if there's anything going on

Hands up. That will be me then!! Made it back to Bournemouth without any worries. will be in regular use while I sort out some major issues on the 20VT that needs some attention. I have to say that it feels really well put together and I'm enjoying it at the moment, the mods are brilliant on it the paintwork and dents being the main thing that let it down but I'm not too worried about that for the time being. I've been lazy with recording the work on the other C, but I've enjoyed reading the build thread and aim to keep that going as and when I get round to doing anything on this one as it's nice to have the history.

i'll second the tdi gearbox. as dave says and also much better for motorway cruising, nice long 5th gear

Pm'd mate

Hi mate I have been waiting for someone to take the temptation away from me but I see he's still for sale. do you have time this weekend to take a look? thanks

I'll 3rd or 4th that. Mine did this too. I think I was messing around by the fuse box and must have tugged on the pipe work a little where it goes into a T junction so that must have caused an air leak. Once found and all secured it was good as gold.

Hi, and welcome, I'm also in Bournemouth, will keep an eye out.

What suspension are people running with a 1.8T? I use mine daily but find the current setup a little too firm. With the car being a bit lighter at the front has anyone gone for MK2 golf units? not looking for a massive drop usual 30-40mm is ok, more about getting a good compromise between handling and comfort. Not too fussed about height adjustable, I have been looking at the Koni STRT shocks if anyone has feedback on those, or any coilovers people can suggest, I'm open to suggestions but on a fairly slim budget. any advice/experience gladly received cheers

I have read this before. interesting, but for most people i would say it is probably safer in most daily situations. as for your track car you may benefit from the reduced weight perhaps not carrying the pump around. my ABS stopped working with a broken sensor if I recall, so unplugging a sensor should temporarily disable it if you want to see what happens in a controlled environment. safety first always though

yes on the gearbox is where mine was, should be on the top at the back. if you follow the great shift cables back towards the bulkhead you should find it, look for the wire going back up to the loom somewhere near the abs pump. hope you get it sorted

When I did mine I re-used my 2.0 flywheel and bolts (new are probably better) and got a vr6 pressure plate and used the 2.0 starter. All worked fine.

i had a leak on my rack. was getting through about a litre per month! i swapped the whole thing out but i swear it was just due to a missing or perished rubber o ring where the pipes seat. might be worth a go, they were pennies off ebay. its a bit cramped under there but it think you could get to it and replace those without removing the whole rack. i think there's a guide to doing the rack swap if you google. also im sure the green fluid is right.

had some leaking issues too not long ago. dont think there would be fluid leaking from under the rubber boot. this is just to protect the UJ. mine was from joint where the high pressure line goes into the steering rack. this leaked fluid all over the front subframe. this is a difficult place to get to with obstructions from the exhaust and bodywork. i removed this pipe and replaced the small o ring at the end of it. now no more leakage

Found the problem here. Turns out to be a broken wire/joint at the ecu pin for the injector signal. Motor now runs fine. However just got the whole thing back in and can't select reverse! Any ideas?? All forward gears go in...

Hi All As title, to upgrade from the 16v rad on my 1.8t conversion thanks