2cc

C6 SVR wrote RU a girlie or just a big girl's blouse?

Tilt. Didn't spot this Ant. Answers my question in the GTI Int thread :oops:

Banana man. yep in to in camp :shock: so count me in for the waggon train (I emailed for gen as well & they are sending out tomorrow). I'll look out me shorts and woggle..... When u doin santa pod next - busy this w/e but contemplating the 23rd & running one this time :salute:

well i'll be a .............

andyg60/bananaman Well guys I just had to go and take my cars to bits to look at this and now don't trust my handbook anymore. There are 2 fuses in the window power line - F14 (tho' not according to the book :x ) and the other one mounted on the top of the fusebox. F14 is a lower rating so it'll go before the other one. Anyway, still looks like its going to be a door wiring problem; either the garage guys have snagged one but more likely, like Ant said, where the harness bends round the door pillar. Busted door mirror switch unlikely to be taking F14 as u say that happens only when u operate the window switches, but looks like the previous owner didn't love it too much :( . Happy hunting & keep us posted. :salute:

Yeah, never been before but my mid life crisis says I have to start now. Am also shy about my stone chips but hey its a working car, also as standard so will probably be in a minority. Haven't booked anything yet but will get on to it & probably go for the campsite too. Be good to meet some more of you guys.

Ha Ha Ha That'll teach you to read the handbook before 'messing about'. It says "The windows function with the ignition switched on. If the ignition is switched off, the windows can still be operated for about an hour, so long as the doors are not opened" So now you know :lol:

Andy/Ant, ok just to check my understanding the fault was on the car when u got it so we can rule out anything u did changing the switches (side note, did u have to solder the new ones in - like I did - or did they come with tails on?) Curious about the fuse, my handbook (16v & G60) shows F14 (15 Amp) as Rev lights; door mirrors; seat heating; washer jet heating. The window lifters have their own fuse which is situated in the wiring loom above the fuse box (20 Amp) so even if F14 goes u should still have power to the windows and operate with the door shut. So does opening & closing the door cause F14 to blow, or does it only go when u operate the window switches with the door open? Can u operate the pass window from drivers side with door open? Like Ant says, I would suspect damage to the door wiring as the culprit & poss shorting/overloading the mirrors circuit at the same time - does F14 blow if u operate the mirror with door open? From what u say I would assume that the alarm will still close the windows with the door shut so I wouldn't suspect the alarm itself. Looks like u will have to strip the footwell trim (& poss the door) to inspect the door wiring for physical damage.

Darren, Absolutely mate, I want two of them please. Let me know how much overall with P&P etc & who you want the cheque making out to an I'll get it in the post

May not be quite that simple Ant. The window & r/lights switch may be separate snags, or it may be the window fault taking the fuse out. Andy, you say the windows work when the drivers door is open but not when its shut. Is this a repetative fault - I mean can you open & close the door several times and get the same thing happening ie windows stop windows work? Can you get the fuse to blow by playing with the windows? Can you get the fuse to blow by selecting reverse? Did the windows go funny after u changed the switches, or were they like that before? These sort of things are usually caused because you have disturbed something - what exactly did you do in changing them? The sequence of events will give us the best clue as to what may be the problem. Can u give us a bit more to go on? The door switch should have no effect on the windows.

I had a similar rattle on the 16V and was convinced it was from under the car/engine bay. Spent absolutely ages trying to find which bit of heat shield or whatever was loose. After months of going mad with it I finally tracked it down. The roof lining has a plastic trim strip running across the top of the windscreen and is held on with metal spring clips. A couple of these had broken allowing the strip to resonate in a particular rev band. Wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it for myself. Get up to rattle speed and then run your finger along the strip - if it shuts up then thats it. Its a bit of a swine to get the strip off without damaging either it or the roof lining so go careful - refitting is also a bit tricky to get it lined up. New clips are pennies. The silence was golden. If it ain't that then who knows. Or try turning the radio up instead - that works

Send me 2 free models now

Got to agree with everyone on this one. 'cept for having a go back - just takes you down to their level but I know what u mean coz I've been there too...... My worst two: just got the 16v back from the body shop, went indoors, hear crash followed by daughter saying 'God he'll kill him' Go outside to find moron kid not quite on bike buried in the rear side panel. AAARRRRR Why didn't his father practice safe sex! I also used to think the out of the way places at supermarkets was a good idea till I came out & spied some toerag trying to bust into the 6. Good job he cleared of bloody quick else I'd probably be inside now. ONLY cost £450 to fix, but at least I still have it :D Passengers are easy - treat my car with respect or walk

Steve, can't be 100% sure but I think this was an optional extra; if I remember rightly that's what the handbook suggests. You're probably right that it came in on later cars but I have no idea when. JRB (Campaign) might know a bit more

that'll learn him - hope it was his......least it wasn't a c

Don't you get dizzy? I got 127,617 on the '90 16V and 113,980 on the '95 VR6 Which is 241,617 an I can only drive one at a time so I guess I win :D :D :D :salute:

Hi guys, Just back from some time off. If you want to know if you have ABS, in Roddy's (vr6storm) pic "pretty sure this one has abs" you can see an ABS sensor cable (there's one on each corner) quite clearly just to the front of the driver side suspension top mount. Or you could look on the inside of a front hub carrier to see the speed sensor rotor. Anyway, who cares what speed ATC comes in? It's a pretty unsophisticated system, and if you nail it (wot me?) it can't cope and the thing scrabbles like a wild cat on a parquet floor :shock: . But you can have lots of fun trying to aim it.... :D

Steve, like your dissertation mate I'm sure that'll help those new to ohms law. I haven't bothered yet but intend to do full before & after V & A readings when the kit arrives

Didn't use the voting buttons coz you haven't got a sort of option.... Did the dremmel bit on both motors and it did improve them. Trouble is the wipers now 'hang' on to the glass on one of 'em unless its really wet, p'raps I cut too much off Haven't decided on the lupo yet, not sure about the curve on the drivers side - need to see in the flesh first I think

Don't like this either - hope they survived! Isn't this tantamount to swearing..........an' shouldn't be allowed

All above reads true, but a bit more to add for those that know b****r all about this. The radio signal cable appears to have been subject to a design change down the years. The early cars, like my '90 16v, were fitted with a signal amplifier (booster - call it what you will) that was mounted in the roof lining right up by the antenna (or aerial). The signal cable had a thin black power supply wire moulded on along its length and picked up +12v from the radio ISO connector. On my car this is actually a switched output from the radio and is only present when the radio is turned on; as Steve says usually Blue/white). If you can see that wire (the black one) and it has power to it then the amplifier has probably failed. On later cars the signal amp is not fitted in the roof but at the radio end. I suspect that it may have been an add on and maybe not fitted as standard. The amp is a wee metal box which just connects onto the signal cable and its own lead goes on to the radio. As above, it's power lead is a thin black wire which should pick up a switched +12 from the ISO connector. So, if you haven't got one fit one; if you have check its connections or replace it as needs be. (If you have a supsect old rear type don't worry about it, just fit a new one at the front) Mine is a VW part, number: 1HO 035 551. Dunno what they cost Happy Woganing - is it me? HTH

glad to hear it, bed it in abit before u have too much fun :)

I got Kenwood and radio reception is AOK. But yeah there is a booster thingy fitted which is powered from the ISO plug on a thin black wire. I'll have a nose at it later and post up any gen

Andi, great pics and a great day too. Shame only saw 1 other c there tho'. For those of you impressed by the "copyrighted" sunset photy, notice how beautifully it is reflected on MY roof (actually it was the only bit still clean by that time) LOL

leew. Yes mate. 10s drop straight in and are held with 3 spring clips, so they don't have fixing lugs