2cc

endor71, dazzyvr6, rats missed you in the flesh & had to leave mine out in the field so glad I didn't clean it. Nice pic of Kev's on the show & shine - class winner

vr6 just drive it :lol:

Karmann, What speed are you managing to get in 2nd? I haven't done the arithmetic but I reckon you will have to be pulling something just over 7,000 rpm to get 60 mph from the standard gear. Don't forget that changing the ratio will mean the engine has to work a bit harder to pull it, so you might even find that it takes longer to hit 60 than it does now. Just a thought

grugh, thanks for the info m8, but as you surmised I looked into this b4 the change and was assured that no adjustment necessary for this amount of drop. btw the car was empty, well 'cept for me & the spare wheel. I'll see how it behaves as I put some miles on it. Like I said, it could have been pie............

Jims16v, The answer to your question, just been out frightening myself meeting LARGE agricultural things on country lanes. But she does handle much better, stays pretty well flat on the corners now not rolling like she used to; pitch/wallow eliminated too; all adjusted to full soft initially so now need to try a range of settings. Does feel quite different now and needs getting used to; I've been getting the back end breaking away on hard braking which was a little surprising :shock: Could I have been going too fast? :lol: R u going s/pod sunday?

Yep, now I've got the big c back in one piece it needs a decent run to check the new set up properly. cu there

Beware, putting any spacer on will change the loading through the bolts & hubs. Whilst there will be some safety tolerance inbuilt I strongly advise you only fit the 'proper' bits. I've seen a few wrecks caused by either the bolts or hub assys coming apart. No way fit 2x5mm spacers together. I am sure our professional colleagues will bear me out on this.

Yeah the sensors are a prone to failure, usually the front. There are a few earlier threads about this. H8RRA £41 or £60+ ? Fronts only cost me £37 from vag

Chris, OUCH! That's why I didn't want to go more than 25/30 and taken so long deciding whether to do it or not. But I can just get on the ramp ok so think it's about right. Might take it out to play tonight now I've calmed down a bit

Yes, mine only has the bottom slot open. Got one with all 3 open at inters but its still on top of the cupboard........

jims16v Hi Jim. What is it with computers? Just spent a while answering you and the damn thing dropped me off the server and lost my post. Grrr Good news is I now have somewhere with heat, light, power and a ramp to work on the c First w/e I put in the new rears, then tried the fronts and found the top plates fell inside the springs :( So replaced all original. Supplier sends new set during the week. 2nd w/e discover vag have supplied the wrong front dust covers :x so can't fit fronts till later in week. Also do arb drop links and mounts - lord are they a pain to get off. Slow drive to dealers on Sat for re-alignment and collect new rear discs etc for Sunday's job. Slow drive back as well coz it's traffic , traffic, traffic. Fit 1st disc, dreaming of a blast later. Take 2nd disc out of box only to find it has 4 stud holes :mad: Give dealer grief on monday and man delivers new disc within the hour. Later, suffer major 3rd party distraction positioning on ramp resulting in - pillar 1 door 0. Now I have a dent & paint damage right on the ridge line aaaarrrrgggghhhh :cry: :cry: I can be very inventive when I swear. Then spent several hours trying to shift the last allen screw (why do they use those things?) from the calliper carriage bracket. But eventually its all on and its only 0115 and off to bed in high dudgeon. Today am too pig sick to shift the tools out the back and go for a spin. It does feel better at low speed though, tighter, and may be my imagination but steering feels lighter as well. As for looks, it hasn't come down as much as I was expecting - guess my old springs were pretty tired. But looks ok at the back, specially from the rear. Not sure about the front may need down just a tad more. But am expecting them to settle a bit as they bed in so won't know for a while. Did I bore you? I'll get me coat......

Dboy, After much deliberating I have just put Koni adjustables & shorter springs (25-30mm) on my VR. Before I did this I confirmed with several reputable tuning places and with Koni that the struts (shocks- call em what u will) are a single fixed size and that putting a shorter spring on was not a problem. But, as with all things there will be a limit to how low you can go with them b4 you'll need to go for coilovers. Guess it all depends on how low you wanna go. Like G60Jet says, give Koni a bell to be certain for what it worth hth

Tinsman, Like all the guys here I know, very sorry to hear of your mishap. Gutting. But look on the bright side - yes there is one - the car was in a tree out back and not disappeared who knows where. That really hurts Keep us posted

just been out - it's 30 here good job my roof opens :lol:

no idea, I can't see it from my office............... and when I can I won't be near the computer ha ha

see top gear last w/e? how about the starsky & hutch look :lol:

Has the plug fallen off the instrument pod?

Sounds like you need to readjust the end clamps on the cable; so they will move the catch levers open wider when the handle is pulled.

Yep, my 16v very occassionally shows the light. Everything is OK with levels (water & oil & doesn't lose any), temps etc and no running problems. I think it's just the switch in the bottle playing up intermittently. Had vag check it out one time & they gave it a clean bill of health so I don't worry about it.

Yes, both mine have the wiring in the loom so I assume it to be standard. What you might find with an after market radio is that the ISO wiring (on the radio side) may be on a different pin. Generally speaking, the ISO pin outs should be standard as well but I have seen some where the dimmer function is on a different pin.

Chris, I had the little plastic plugs that hold the Corrado name badge on the rear panel split - couldn't believe how much water got in through there. Bloody gallons, I had the carpets out for months before I figured out where it was coming from. Not the same problem you have got, but it might be worth having a look at the mounting points for the number plate panel as that has small attachment pegs that penetrate into the tailgate. They also have a habit of breaking off as they are pretty fragile. Mind you, I know a couple of mine are busted, but x-fingers no water gettting in there - yet! Good hunting

it'll cost you if u go to vag! from what u say about not working from the switch either, then I'd say the problem is at the back. are u electrically inclined yourself? if so try dissing the supply wiring from the motor assy, then u can run a feed in, in opposite senses, to check the motor & drive train are working ok up & down. if there's any hesitation in its movement (eg motor straining) then either the drive train needs greasing (its easy to strip) or the motor is on its way out. vag charge a fortune but there are folk around who can refurb them, or get one from a breaker hth

or try 'sticky stuff remover'. and b4 anyone says ha ha, it really is called that

Clunking with steering lock applied is typical symptom of CV on the way out. U can usually identify which one by putting on full lock one way & then the other. The wheel under load (outside of your turning circle) will be the noisy one.

Absolutely. Had my 1.8 16V since '92 and it's been totally reliable, whoever said they aren't duff genned you. Like the other guys said, keep it serviced and it'll do you proud. Best 4u for insurance too.