vw rule

I've had 17" rims on mine, still got them in the garage as my Corrado is off the road, never again though 17" with 40 profile the ride is just too harsh, it's not bad on half decent roads but just makes the suspension feel too hard. But the grip is amazing but just too much on the firm side, mind you I bought them when I was 25, now I'm 44 old git 🤫😆 I'm tempted to go back to 15" or possibly some BBS 16" not sure yet. I'd go 16" rim's max but no more, if you can stay with original 15" size, it suits the car better and with 50 profile you have some stiffness but not too much. With the 45 profile it'll be firmer but should be ok I think. It really comes down to your personal taste how you want your overall suspension to feel. Si

Here's that website to some of the info regarding the original VW wheels on the Golf and Corrado. For some reason it didn't upload on my previous post. https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/wheels/15-16-VW-wheel-gallery-4x100.htm Si

Great looking cars there guys and the wheels aren't bad either 👍 I found this website with good info regarding some of the original VW wheels. I think possibly with 16" wheels you'd want 215/45R16 for 7J might even be able to fit 225/45R16 ? Tyre with a 40 profile will create a fairly hard ride, maybe too hard ? 50 profile on 16" rims might possibly be too much, i.e clearance issues ?? Si

Tug of war 😆 Seriously though Dox it might work never tried it myself. Si

Oh fair play you've got them in 👍 Yeah they can be a bit of a turd to fit, the trick really is to use a load of lubrication it makes fitting most bushes a lot easier. Si

Hello there, I did mine a few years ago and used an old cylinder head bolt I had laying around, plus a couple of large washers, a nut, and a very large socket to spread the weight but mainly to pull the old bushes into. The new OEM bushes I sprayed a little with WD40 and small amount of EP grease, and they pulled into place without any real hassle. The only other thing I used to assist me was a medium sized flat ended screw driver, simply to aid fitment by pushing slightly on the side that was starting to tilt, that's about it really. Photos below when I fitted mine. Hope this helps Si

👍 Si

Hello there, looks like both gearboxes are 02Q which is 6 speed and have similar specs, in fact they appear to have the same gear ratio set up range between them. 1st gear 49 : 13 = 3.769 2nd gear 48 : 23 = 2.087 3rd gear 45 : 34 = 1.324 4th gear 42 : 43 = 0.977 5th gear 39 : 40 = 0.975 6th gear 35 : 43 = 0.814 Reverse gear 36 : 23 x 13 : 14 = 4.549 Final drive for (1st to 4th gear) 69 : 20 = 3.450 Final drive for (5th to 6th gear) 69 : 25 = 2.760 Code JLU (2006 onwards) = oil capacity 2.3 litres Code HDV (2004 onwards) = oil capacity 2.3 liters PDF file of the workshop manual for the 02Q gearbox with code HDV, which has all torque settings. Attachment below. Hope this helps Si 6-speed_manual_gearbox_02Q.pdf

Hello there, there's some good advice on this thread below from 2018. Link attached. Also I think VW Heritage do the Febi timing chain kit for roughly £307 And like you say there's others on Ebay which you'll probably have to double check where they're selling from, as mentioned in the above link. Hope this helps Si

Good to see you on here VEEDUBBED 👍 I don't always get the time to be on here but do try to when I'm free, there's still activity on here but yes it has reduced from when it first started back in 2002. I remember looking on this forum back in roughly 2007, and reading some of the great build threads and loads of photos, and other helpful tips and thinking oh that VW part will fit the Corrado, and that's where you buy it from. I've owned my Corrado since early 2002 but didn't have the opportunity to join up on here until 2013, and yes my Corrado is still off the road and in bits also 😆 Si

Yeah realistically that's not going to help the air to fuel ratio with warn cylinders or rings, but possibly you might have had an issue in the past or still do slightly, to of caused cylinders 2 and 4 to wear that much more then 1 and 3, possibly over fueling or other issues in the past have caused the rings or bores to wear out sooner ? Like I say on the 16v and some G60 Corrado's they have the exhaust emissions inspection tube, attached to the back of exhaust manifold allowing you to test/check the emissions before the catalytic converter, there is also some adjustment from the CO/air temp sensor but I wouldn't touch that unless the car was hooked up to the proper equipment. I suppose you could put a small amount of oil down the bores to aid lubrication, it wouldn't hurt as you do have some compression still from the rings in cylinders 2 and 4, but how long that oil would last I don't know. Your engine possibly is burning some oil, you don't always have to see blue/grey smoke out your exhaust, plus the extra boost air pressure from your supercharger in the cylinders, might be keeping some of the oil at bay, as some of that boost will be escaping past the rings. Ideally you'd want a slightly richer fuel mixture as it'll be diluted more due to being supercharged anyway, i.e loads more air being forced in. Plus the smell you mentioned in one of your earlier posts from your spark plugs, is the smell more of a burning one as the plugs do look very slightly on the hot side, but only very slightly, like I said before it does look like soot around the edge of plug which normally just brushes off with your finger, that might leave like a charcoal mark but will clear. If it had oil residual within the soot, it'll leave more of a congealed mark on your finger, that won't clear off so easily if you know what I mean, plus you'll possibly smell the oil residual from plug ? Regarding the ABA short engine is that from an Audi, those blocks might be similar to the 9A block, but I'm not 100% sure though. Si

You do have then half decent compression going by your readings, it's dropped a bit from 165 to 174 PSI from when the engine was new, but that is to be expected a reading of 140 PSI + or - 15 PSI is pretty good and shows the compression between the cylinders is fairly close. Basically then cylinders 2 and 4 are producing compression and holding it in cylinder for that short amount of time up until the power stroke umpteen times a minute, but those two cylinders in question can't hold pressure long term during leak down test, so possibly is wear in those two cylinders and or piston rings, especially if you can hear air escaping into crank case via dip stick tube. Thinking about it I'm sure there's two TDC sequences that happens during full cylinder cycle 1) is the compression stroke when valves will be closed. 2) is on the power stroke when the exhaust valve will be open or partially open. So ideally you should do the leak down test I think at TDC on the compression stroke and follow the firing order of 1, 3 , 4, 2 to aid testing on the correct compression cycle for the other cylinders, so to speak. Because if not you may get false readings during test and thinking you have air escaping into exhaust or inlet manifold, when actually you might have a valve open if at TDC on the power stroke. But from what you've mentioned you can't hear any air escaping into exhaust or inlet manifolds so that tells me you're on the correct TDC sequence. You could carry out the test again to be 100% sure, but it does look like the engine is wearing in cylinders 2 and 4, I think you could possibly use a tea spoon or table spoon topped with engine oil, and carefully drip it into those cylinders, during the leak down test the air pressure should push the tea/table spoonful of oil to the sides of cylinder, and try and force it out of the weakest point, in your case past the rings, so for a few seconds the escaping air should stop possibly, which would then confirm your problem. On your piston I think you'll have 3 rings, top and middle will be compression rings, and the bottom is your oil ring, the oil ring allows oil droplets to sit in it's cavities to penetrate up the cylinder to aid lubrication, but it's the two compression rings that normally get a hammering. You've mentioned that your engine isn't smoking but has a small misfire on startup, that clears after a few minutes or once up to temperature. Also I think running an engine on a fairly lean air to fuel ratio long term, can possibly generate more heat into piston's resulting in damage over time. Si

Ok and how long ago did you say you had a compression test done on all 4 cylinders, did you say they were very similar readings between all 4 ? According to the Bentley manual the compression should be between 116 & 174 PSI (8 to 12 bar) difference allowed between cylinders is 43.5 PSI (3 bar) Wear limit it states is 87 PSI (6 bar) but realistically if your readings are close to 90 or 95 PSI then your engine will have weak performance. Si

Yeah it does point to the piston rings possibly if you say you can definitely hear air escaping out of dip stick tube, that's definitely by pass pressure getting into crank case, you'll always have a small amount which gets collected in crack case breather which is recirculated back into inlet via air filter or inlet manifold. In that case then you'll probably hear the air escaping with oil filler cap removed and your thumb over dip stick tube opening. Could also be a head gasket but it's escaping from two cylinders and they're not next to one another, plus I think the larger oil ports are near cylinders 1 and 4 so like you say could well be rings, if it was a piston gone it probably would be smoking out the exhaust, and possibly misfiring. Si 👍

Ok so looking at your readings then cylinders 1 and 3 are within acceptable range which is I think 20% or under. But cylinders 2 and 4 are miles out of range 😱 Q: Can you hear any air escaping into crank case or hear/feel any with the breather hose or oil filler cap removed ? If so then this could well be rings worn. Or can you hear any air escaping into exhaust or inlet manifold/s. Exhaust you might be able to remove the blue plug off the exhaust emission probe tester tube, that's sometimes fitted to 16v and G60 exhaust manifolds, check for any air escaping out. Regarding the inlet manifold again listen for any echoing sound escaping air, you might have to remove the air inlet pipe to throttle body to feel for any air escaping, or isn't there a breather hose that connects close to the CO/air temp sensor in the inlet pipe to throttle body, just to gain access for any mass air escaping. At TDC or close to it both the inlet and exhaust valves should be closed, on cylinder 1, I think the cam lobes will be pointing upwards but out at roughly 45 degree angle, (valve 1 exhaust) (valve 2 inlet) 20% leak down test reading so valves and rings possibly ok for mileage, I think 20% or under is within range. At TDC on cylinder 2 I think the cam lobes will be pointing down wards but out at roughly 45 degree angle so should be closed (valve 3 exhaust) (valve 4 inlet) 50% leak down test so could be damaged warn valves or rings. At TDC on cylinder 3 the came lobes I think will be pointing upwards but out at roughly 45 degree angle, again valves should be closed (valve 5 exhaust) (valve 6 inlet) 20% leak down test reading so valves and rings possibly ok for mileage. Then on cylinder 4 at TDC the cam lobes will be I think pointing down wards but out at roughly 45 degree angle, so again the valves should be closed. (valve 7 exhaust) (valve 8 inlet) 40% leak down test so could be damaged valves or rings. So you definitely had the same PSI of air going into each cylinder when your leak down tester was connected using compressed air via compressor ? I think you want roughly 80 PSI which is about 5.5 bar of air pressure, plus I don't think you can complete the test in about 5 minutes, I think it can take up to roughly 30 to 40 minutes per each cylinder, to be 100% sure the cylinder is holding pressure long term, and not just for 1 or 2 minutes. Were the valves 100% closed on cylinders 2 and 4 as that is one hell of a reading 40% & 50% Apologies mate I just want to be sure you're testing correctly 👍 Hope this helps Si

Hello mate, which two cylinders have weaker readings is it two cylinders next to one another ? Also how long did you do the leak down test for and what were your readings. Have you done a compression test also or just the leak down test ? Si

Yeah it does look like your G60 is running on the lean side with the reading you've listed 15.5 From what I've read and my understanding of it, is the air to fuel ratio ideally should be close to 14.7:1 which is baseline pretty much for petrol engines, and possibly slightly richer fuel mixture for some of the newer turbo engines ? I think 14.7:1 means you need 1kg of fuel to 14.7kg of air to burn correctly in the cylinder, but I think from what I've read the G60 has been known to run on the lean side sometimes, it can be the sluggish signal adjustment characteristics between the ECU and lambda sensor in it's standard setup but it's not all the time from what I've read, which is why you guys I presume get a remap to gain more power but to obtain a more consistent richer mixture when driving hard. Also it looks like the G60 does have a MAP sensor (G71) which is located inside the ECU, which is partly why it's important to have a bang on length of 1 metre (100 cm) for the vacuum hose from the throttle body to ECU, otherwise you can have running issues. According to the Bentley manual the MAP sensor inside ECU is limited to 17.4 psi = (2200 mbar) The WOT switch is I think the Wide Open Throttle switch, again according to the Bentley manual the G60 has two throttle switches, 1) close position at idle, and, 2) full/wide open position at full throttle. I think the standard green injectors are set to operate up to 3 bar (43.5 psi), specs I think are 255cc (operating resistance 15.9 ohms) Duty cycle = (g/min 191.9) I think that's right anyway. This is a PDF file I've found online of all or most Bosch injectors. Link below. https://www.accurateis.com/images/23641354-Injectors-calc-flow-data.pdf I'll have another look in the Bentley manual. Si

Thanks for the update Chris it's much appreciated 👍 Si

There's a thread on this forum somewhere discussing about the later type fog light units, basically the later type fogs are a licensed VW part, so aftermarket companies are not permitted to make them. I'm not sure about the headlights but I've never seen them selling from aftermarket companies, I've only ever seen headlight lenses listed with GSF many years ago now. The actual headlight units might be a licensed part like the late fogs, as like I say I've never seen any aftermarket ones. I've seen aftermarket rear lights many times, wing indicators and front indicators, and seen clear lens front fog light units for sale complete with chrome clear indicators a few years ago on Amazon. But never ever seen any new aftermarket headlight units, as far as I know the headlights were only ever available from VW main dealerships or VW Classic Parts, and the same with all the body panels. Si

Sorry mate I presumed yours was a VR6 🙈 Ok so it's a G60. Yeah I'd definitely drive the car and have someone or yourself view the scan tool readings in live data, just to confirm it is or not running on the lean side. Si 👍

If you think your car is running lean, it'll normally be on the inlet side possibly after the MAF basically unmeasured extra air entering in, possible inlet manifold gasket or vacuum hose/s, but you sometimes can have a symptom with an air or vacuum leak, like sluggish throttle response or weak idle, plus I think it might pop very slightly out the back of exhaust, but really depends how lean the mixture is. If your exhaust was blowing/leaking from manifold or down pipe, you'll normally hear it or smell the extra exhaust fumes, plus you might even see slight black soot marks on or near manifold heat shield, but this depends how bad it is, plus the lambda sensor will still be able to check/adjust the fuel trim, as it detects fuel deposits, but this all depends what reading the MAF is sending to ECU, like I say if you have an air or vacuum leak, the ECU may not pick it up as the VR6 doesn't have a MAP sensor, so doesn't have that secondary backup so to speak. I'd scan your ECU for any logged fault codes if any ? And get someone to drive your Corrado whilst your looking at the scan tool in live data mode, or use freeze frame if it has it. You'll probably want to look at the fuel injector readings, as any weakness in the fuel system can also effect the air to fuel ratio. Hope this helps Si

Hello there, they look ok to me if all 4 plugs look like that one, yes you have a little bit of black soot around the body of plug, this will probably brush off with your thumb or finger, if not then might be running on the rich side or just short journeys. The white porcelain insulation looks in really good condition, and the platinum tip from what I can see look good also. The earth electrode on the top looks ok also, not much discoloration or any carbon build up. Looks like they're fairly recent plugs to me. If the plugs came out wet with fuel or really smelt strong of fuel, then it definitely is over fueling or weak spark. All spark plugs will carbon up over time as they degrade, but like I say yours look fine. Photo below of a new plug and a well used warn one. Hope this helps Si

Yeah I have seen those on Classic, good find Keyo. Regarding most vehicles that are imported into the UK including any from Japan that are a few years old, I think they have to go through an SVA (single vehicle approval) test or IVA (individual vehicle approval) test, to make sure the vehicle meets all road safety standard regulations for UK roads, plus the MOT test as Fen has mentioned. Years ago I worked for a place where we had some car trader customers who were importing various cars from Japan/China, we had to fit UK spec rear light units with fog light, or had to wire in separate fog light and fit it to bumper or customize it into bumper so it looked kind of OEM, but that was only when the car trader didn't want to fork out for a new rear light unit. I recall we had to change/replace one or two headlights on some cars from Japan/China but it wasn't that many to be honest, most well a lot of the vehicles would pass the SVA test regarding the headlights on a RHD car from Japan/China. But this was roughly 20 years ago now when I was last involved in that. Si

No worries glad to be of help 👍 You're only 21 and sorting out electrical issues fair play you're doing a great job there 👏 Si

Hi Chris that's great news 👍 I've just found this video on YouTube regarding the VX Tuning replacement Corrado euro spec lenses, from what the guy says in his review they're top quality. Chris are these lenses available in both LHD and RHD options ? Many thanks Si