vw rule

Hi gang sorry to be the party pooper but ideally this thread needs moving to the correct forum section, i.e (exterior section) Forum questions and answers is purely regarding the forum only. Many thanks Si 👍

Hi gang sorry to be the party pooper but ideally this thread needs moving to the correct forum section, i.e (general car chat section) Forum questions and answers is purely regarding the forum only. Many thanks Si 👍

You're not Kidding 😆 Si

Oh ok nice one, yeah it's always good to have spares just in case 👍 Si

Tell me about it 😂🤣😆 I might try this next 😂😂 rust prevention. Si 👍

I agree we should all have oil spray jets pointing to the back of our car's, just in case 😆 Wish I had a decent oil leak 😫😆👍 Good to hear yours was only minimal 👍 Si

When I replaced my battery tray well part of it anyway, I also rebuilt/repaired my front side bumper brackets as they were rusted through, I'll upload photos when I can next. Regarding the side bumper brackets I had to drill out new holes so the plastic wheel arch liner could be attached correctly. The new square hole/s you drill out then file to 7.5mm max, don't go any larger untill you've tried the new plastic fitting, just to be safe. You can always enlarge a tad more if needed, once you've checked fitment. VW spec black plastic expanding screw retainer (also known as expanding nut) Head 12mm Stem length 12mm Fits square hole of 8mm to 8.2mm NOT 10mm as that'll be too big. OEM part number 811 807 577C I purchased the above from Ebay a while ago now, they come in packs of 10 Hope this helps Si

Also if you're not sure or can't remember which way the new fuel neck bracket goes, I've attached a photo. Hope this helps Si

Corrado rear inner wing which houses the fuel flap motor & rod. Cut piece out of OEM new O/S/R inner wing panel and fabricate to fit, rectangular hole already made in OEM panel for plastic guard cover, diameter of rectangular hole is (length 20mm X width 14mm) 9mm circle hole already made in OEM panel for lock motor rod. But I had to make the two small square holes for the plastic expanding nut retaining clips for the screws, basically you have to drill them out and make them square shaped. Square hole diameter is 7mm Below are the measurements for drilling out the fabricated panel piece. First drill a centre hole to start making the two square holes. STEP 1) Distance from centre of 9mm circle to centre of each 7mm small square each side is 19mm. If you are drilling these square holes from scratch then you'll need this measurement first. STEP 2 Distance from 9mm circle edge to closest edge of square is 11mm, this is the same for both square holes both sides. STEP 3 Distance from 9mm circle edge to furthest edge of square is 18mm, this is the same for both square holes both sides Plastic expanding nut retaining clip, get some that expand to at least 8mmX8mm. Length on the ones I got are 6mm, and the centre hole is 4mm that the screw will go into. Hope this helps Si

This is the new plastic expanding screw retainers that you need. You'll have to drill out two holes and file them into a square, to enable the two plastic screw retainers to fit correctly. This panel piece I cut from the right rear inner wing that I purchased from VW Heritage. Inner wing panel part number is: 535 809 404A Hope this helps Si

This is how bad my fuel neck panel area was, rusted/pitted through so had to cut out the bad piece. Have a new piece to go in. Si

Also I found and treated this just in time on the passenger side outer sill, before the rust really got in. This area the VW stone chip covering was lifting off. Si

That's basically what I've done just repaired the areas that are cracking/pealing, but I did find some gremlins when removing the old VW underseal ☹️ So I had to cut it out and weld in a new piece, and wax oil the inner chassis box section on the drivers side. The passenger side chassis looks ok but will still treat it with wax oil to be sure. I used thick sticky seam sealer instead of underseal, then will spray over with semi flex stone chip might even use black wax oil too. Si

I think the Eaton M45 supercharger was possibly also used in the BMW Mini Cooper S, from what I've read online. Also this charger does produce a lot of heat so is important to still use your intercooler. Reading through your above post and watching your uploaded video, I'm inclined to think it's possibly wiring/electrical issue/s, firstly you unplugged the blue coolant temperature sensor in your video, then you also mentioned when you unplug your lambda sensor (O2 sensor) it idles a lot better, and doesn't fluctuate at all or not as much. I think unplugging those two sensors will increase the fuel mixture, as the ECU can't read the signals from those sensors when they're unplugged. For the engine to fluctuate yes it can be an air leak, but I've never seen an engine fluctuate that much and up to 5000rpm, there's got to be something else that the ECU doesn't like or can't see when it's making it's fuel to air ratio calculations. Or as POPEYE775 has mentioned could possibly be a vacuum/breather issue, but it would have to be quite bad to effect the engine like this ? Looking in the Bentley manual at the G60 engine, it's showing a large crank case breather, going from the bottom of throttle flange, then small hose comes off to valve cover, then main breather pipe goes to supercharger. I can see in your video it's connected ok to valve cover and throttle flange, but can't see the back of supercharger. In the manual it mentions when carrying out a boost pressure system leak check, you have to disconnect the crank case breather recirculation pipe, I presume to aid getting an accurate reading when testing. What I'm saying is this breather recirculation pipe is it all rooted correctly to supercharger. 1) completely different supercharger fitted, so fabrication would have been needed to make this charger fit correctly. 2) throttle body has been moved lower down. Where too exactly and how has it been connected, I think I saw the throttle cable going over and down the front of engine ? 3) none standard ECU was fitted before but has since been changed back to standard OEM, I think this ECU has to measure the vacuum to help calculate correct idle of engine. In the Bentley manual it states this vacuum hose to ECU must be bang on correct as 100cm (1 meter) long, no more / no less, states highly critical. 4) also your Mass Air Flow Sensor / Co sensor / air temp sensor, has this been adjusted / played with ?? 5) Has it got a standard OEM cam shaft still fitted, or has that been altered ?? As the other guys have mentioned I'd go back to basics and start with the valve timing, as that must be 100% correct so you've got a good base foundation, otherwise you could be going round in circles. Also you could check the ignition timing with a timing strobe gun, but I seriously doubt that would cause your issue, but is still worth checking. Si

Is this the new version of VW underseal you're talking about ? To be honest I've never used the stuff from VW. Ebay item number 174280500815 Link below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174280500815 Si

Hi Hasan, from memory I think lowering a Corrado suspension by 35mm using just lowering springs, you've still just got some clearance travel between the bump stop and shock, but dropping down to 40mm plus then you'll be right on the bump stops with no clearance travel, so this will fail the MOT as it's seen as being dangerous, due to the lack of suspension travel. It's not advisable to cut down the bump stop, plus there's full rubber ones and foam ones I think, if you are going to cut down a bump stop then ideally it'll need to be the full rubber type, as they're stronger and won't fall apart or weaken when they're cut. You'll need to cut along the bottom not the top, and it'll need to be a straight cut as best you can, otherwise the bump stop won't sit flat and may split or bulge out to one side. I'll see if I can find any old threads on this subject or any other info. Si

Admittedly I've had area's on mine underneath that are cracked or pealing off, once the salt and water gets in behind those damaged areas, it doesn't take long for it to start showing signs of surface rust, as it's only a very thin layer of primer used to cover the bar metal, then over that VW just used their rubberised/silicone underseal stuff, which if unchecked can hide a load of rusty gremlins. With rust there's only one solution and that is to cut it out completely, or if it is only very slight rust, you can treat it but it's not a 5 minute job, you'll have to remove all the surface rust, including a good centimetre around & away from the affected area, make sure the surface rust area is 100% cleaned away down to bar metal, then treat it with a good acid rust converter, as a first coat, then apply a good zink or galvanized paint on top of at least two coats, then you've got the choice to put on another coat like a thick coat of red oxide, or use a proper stone chip paint that is heat/salt/stone resistant that'll set rock hard. Then the final coat over the top is underseal or use a good thick seam sealer if you're repairing damaged areas, then as extra protection spray black wax oil, or use a semi flexible stone chip over the top. Then every year you'll need to check the underside for any damage, especially when your car comes back from it's MOT or service, or if you've been to a tyre fitting place and they've used a trolley jack, this can crack/split the underseal. Alternatively you could simply just spray the underside with old engine oil, this will keep the current underseal hydrated and won't dry out. Most older cars from the 1960s 70s and very early 80s use the old oil trick, hence why they're still on the road. My point is the underside of your car needs to be multi layered up otherwise it won't last 4 years, Si

This was my old dash cam set up in my previous car the MK3 Polo, since then I've bought a newer car my 2015 SEAT Ibiza and fitted in another dash cam, this set up again has front and rear cameras, but both are roughly 10 mega pixel, so has crystal clear recording. The dash cam is the VIOFO A129 has full built in GPS & Wi-Fi, you have the option to purchase the hard wire kit if you want it wired in permanently off ignition, or you can simply plug it into your 12v auxiliary socket, plus can use a small battery pack if or when in parking mode. VIOFO A129 is £150 to £155 new from Amazon, I got mine for just over £100 as I had some gift vouchers. The only criticism of this unit is it only accepts genuine VIOFO memory SD cards. https://images.app.goo.gl/csQFQwioSJkd9WiF6 Si

Diagrams from the Bentley Manual for the 2.0 16v (9A) electrical circuit for the ECU, I have already listed most of them in a previous post, but thought these wiring diagrams may help also. Green dots show ECU pins. Si Some info here regarding the Lambda sensor on the 9A

Hello there, I think most multimeter's will have on them AC (alternated current) and DC (direct current) this is basically volts, but on motor vehicles when checking volts you'll need to use DC (direct current) The red test lead should plug into the far right red socket on multimeter which also should have these symbols above it (mAVΩ). The black test lead should plug into where it says COM (earth) Regarding miniamps turn your multimeter dial to 200mA, according to the Bentley Manual for the 2.0 16v 9A engine, the mA range for the Differential Fuel Pressure Regulator is 80mA to 100mA NOTE ! You'll need to disconnect the HT king lead to prevent the engine from starting up, and also disconnect the coolant temperature switch normally just below and to the left of distributor, has a 2 pin white connection plug. Si

Hello Matt, I've done this job a while ago now and used the MK2 Golf battery tray, but it'll need some slight fabrication to fit correctly. When I did mine I didn't need the whole new tray, so I cut out the centre section as that was the only real bit I required. You'll need to bolt in or weld in a new 6mm or 8mm stud for the battery earth, which attaches to the back anchor retaining clamp, that the base of battery slides into. Also the bumper side metal bracket will need some fabrication, where it was welded to original battery tray, it's the leg bracket marked with a red circle in the link below that you need to make a bit longer, roughly about 5mm to 6mm. This is because the MK2 Golf tray is very slightly raised here, but only just, but is enough to not allow the leg bracket to sit flush up against the Golf tray. Link to battery tray Hope this helps Si

Just checked mine now. First registered on 1st August 1994 at Windrush VW in Slough. Si

Hello mate I don't know much about the Lenso wheels, only that they're possibly manufactured over in the far east like China or Philippines. I'm not sure I'd trust this girl in the video with my Lenso wheels, "ok sir this is our drop test" 😱🤣😆 Si