vw rule

That is quality nice one 👍 Si

Thanks for the link I was looking at getting something like that, but I've heard good and bad things about POR15, plus the way they market it is you have to buy the whole kit or risk of it not working for long from what I've read and heard ? POR15 cleaner degreaser, POR15 metal prep rust killer, POR15 under coat POR15 top coat It's quite expensive stuff, well for 500ml on Ebay anyway. In the end I went for zink 182 grey primer, on top I applied red oxide, then top coat used black hammerite, then over that used XHT clear lacquer which has a high temperature resistance, then wax oiled in the crevices and brushed some on the top of subframe, and along the seam edges basically where water can sit sometimes. Can't see that rusting anytime soon, well hopefully not. Si 👍

From memory the bumber bracket legs that are welded to under side of battery tray, one of them you need to cut the top part off, what I mean is you'll need to extend it roughly by about 10mm, due to the Corrado battery try being very slightly different here, compared to the MK2 Golf, a part from that it's identical to the Corrado. I've marked the two bumber bracket legs with red and yellow circles. The yellow circle one is fine, but the red circle one at the back is the one from memory you'll need to make longer if any of you tackle this job in the future. Hope this helps Si

The next day ground down the welding to make it look tidy and treated with Wenko Rust killer, then painted a few coats of zink 182 primer, then some red oxide, plus added some seam sealer to prevent any moisture getting to welding. Si

I spot welded along the chassis leg as it was originally, plus the two legs of the bumber bracket, then seam welded along the back / front and left side of battery tray, then seam and spot welded along the right side and back right where it curves around strut panel. First photo is when I had just finished welding. The second photo is I'd just sprayed some zink primer to protect it, as I was going to grind down the welding the next day as it was starting to get dark. Si

Photos of a new MK2 Golf battery tray that I cut down and welded in a few years ago now, think this was back in October of 2017. Si

This is Keyo's photo not mine that he kindly sent me via WhatsApp late last year, as you can see the new fuel injector lines look great. This is definitely something I need to get done on mine in the future. Si

It'll be good to have these bolts available again, thanks Sebastian for sorting this. Regarding the front indicators they were available with VW Heritage a few years ago back in 2015 I think, they did cost about £50 per side then. What else do you have on your list. Si

First coat of zink 182 primer just got to leave it to harden, then will go over it again with red oxide which is pretty much chip resistant really tough paint. Also got new engine mounts to fit, plus I'll rub down steering rack and paint that also whilst the subframe is down, and treat the chassis areas where the subframe is bolted to. Si

Cheers it took some elbow grease believe me to clean it up before using the acid rust killer 👍 Si

Hello guys hope everyone is well and keeping safe and busy in lockdown. I wasn't happy at how my front subframe was looking so dropped it down, and cleaned it up using my mains grinder and wire wheel, plus a die grinder with air compressor for the smaller crevices. Then finally I used some acid rust killer that was brushed all over subframe, the stuff I use is (Wenko Rust Killer) It works really well but is really corrosive so eye protection and mask are a must. Plus I did the same with the anti roll bar as that was looking tatty. Photos of before and after cleanup of subframe. Just waiting for my paint to arrive then can get it finished off and bolted back up. Si

As Fendervg has mentioned regarding the crank sensor, if this sensor fails it can result in no spark. The crank sensor I think as Fendervg has said is attached to engine block, it's on the front side behind or under the oil filter area, think it pulsates off the toothed ring which is moulded/made to crankshaft, close to flywheel end of crank. Regarding the distributor the safest way to remove it is to set your engine to TDC, once engine is timed up the rotor arm should be pointing to number 1 HT lead on dizzy cap, plus ideally rotor arm to be inline with the small notch cut out mark on the top side edge of distributor. Also you can use tipex or small chisel to make an in-line mark where the dizzy sits against cylinder head, just so you know then what position your dizzy was in (mark the dizzy and cylinder head where they both meet) Yes your coil should have the one HT lead coming from it (The King Lead) which goes to centre terminal socket of dizzy cap. So just to clarify you don't have any spark at all from your coil ? Si

Oh ok mate I presumed the later type VR6 with the full coil pack only has the crank sensor, I didn't think the early type with distributor had one. Si 👍

Hello there, as your VR6 has a distributor it won't have a crank sensor, so the ECU needs a signal to tell it that the engine is rotating, plus confirmation of ignition spark which it gets partly from the Hall sensor I think, which is inside distributor it's what the 3 pin plug is connected to on the side of dizzy, plus it's semi connected to the ignition coil. If the Hall sensor has burnt out then the engine possibly may not start up, as no signal to ECU. If the ignition coil has gone then engine definitely won't start up. According to the Corrado Bentley manual, it says with ignition switched off remove the 3 pin connector plug from distributor, using a multimeter set at 20volts connect the leads to the outer terminals i.e (pin 1 and pin 3) switch ignition on you should see a minimum reading of 4.5volts or higher, if no voltage then could be wiring fault or a fuse blown or a problem with ECU ? Hall sensor terminals: (has 3 pins) Pin 1 = Earth (-) brown/black wire goes to terminal/pin 33 of the main 42 terminal/pin round engine harness plug. Pin 2 = Signal/pulse wire to ECU goes to terminal/pin 21 of the main 42 terminal/pin round engine harness plug, then from main round harness plug goes to terminal 44 of ECU white/red wire Pin 3 = Power (+) black/yellow wire *********************************** The other thing to check is your ignition coil, if that has died then your Corrado 100% won't start up. Looks like the coil has a 3 pin connector plug, and is partly connected to ECU. Pin 1 = Earth (-) brown wire this goes to terminal 6 of the 42 terminal round main engine harness plug, Pin 2 = signal/pulse wire black/red wire goes to terminal 8 of ECU Pin 3 = power (+) black wire only powered when ignition is on or cranking engine over. Also is partly connected to terminal 38 of ECU You should have battery voltage between pins 1 & 3 of the 3 pin connector plug for coil with ignition switched on. (Multimeter set at 20 volts) Also on the coil there should be two contacts marked as (1) and (15) (1) and (15) = Primary. (15) and king lead round socket (4) = Secondary. Measuring between (1) and (15) you should have primary residence of 0.5 to 0.7 ohms. Measuring between (15) and king lead socket (4) you should have secondary resistance of 3000 to 4000 ohms. The Bentley manual says if above readings are not within range or not obtained, to disconnect the battery earth lead, and remove coil and repeat test. Regarding the coil you should have continuity between the terminals something like 7 to 8 ohms, or your multimeter should bleep to confirm you have continuity. Also I think you can possibly check the signal/pulse operation is working, by measuring between pin 1 (-) and pin 2 (pulse) you should see pulses on your multimeter in volts, or I think you can use an LED pulse tester to check operation. hope this helps si

Thanks Chris much appreciated 👍 Si

In the past I've had cheap rotor arms that didn't last long at all, I was told they came from the same faulty batch, not saying your distributor cap is from a faulty batch but could be a possibility. Did you replace it with the same brand as the old one ? Or is it OEM ? I'd check your ignition timing is within correct specification using a timing gun, because if it's out it can cause the engine to ping if the ignition timing is too advanced, which can cause other issues. As already mentioned if the distributor shaft is lose it can cause problems with the cap sometimes. The other thing is your coil and HT leads, if you have problems/faults with them it can sometimes cause issues with distributor cap, but not always. If the coil is faulty or the ignition amplifier module, it can sometimes result in the spark damaging the distributor cap prematurely. Or like I say could be a cheapish cap that just can't last as long as OEM ? Hope this helps Si

Yeah I've just had a quick look also, it does look like a decent Corrado, there's not many around now with under 100k miles on the clock, the mileage is 74,274 with full service history. According to the site there's been 12 bids on it, current bid is £4350 on 25 February at 10:28pm with 6 days to go until action ends. Si

Great looking Corrado's there in the photo's 👍 Si

I spoke to Julian or Chris I think in sales at VW Heritage back in 2018, made enquiries about the left side one as it was listed on VW Classic Parts site, also asked regarding the right side one which wasn't and possibly still isn't listed on their site, was told that it is available and looked like Classic had remade them back in 2017/18, also was told there's early and late type air guides, as they had them listed for G60 including the air duct guide tube/s. Might still be worth giving Heritage a call just in case, other than that it's like what Keyo has said could be obsolete again. Hope this helps Si

Photo from late 2018 Si

Fuel accumulator bracket like I say has since been moved back in a more central position that fits much better. I'll upload new photos of how it looks now. I was so busy with work last year just didn't have the time to complete it. Si

This is what I got made, this is a photo from late 2018 but the fuel accumulator bracket was too far forward, so has since been moved back as it was too close to rear axle bush bracket. Si

Yeah I know they're not cheap. Si

Hello mate, yes I managed to get one made by a fabricator I know who made it out of alloy. Cheers for the link I'll have a look at their website 👍 Si

The old set up