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According to the wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual 1992 to 1993 Corrado with distributor fitted, the fuel relay should be as below. Z1 = red/yellow wire (can be linked to fuse 18 on some VAG models for fuel pump relay, and or fuel injectors. 30B = 4mm red wire this is the permanent live power to fuel relay (167) but relay won't activate/energize until ignition is switched on. 30 = 4mm red wire is a permanent live from the battery (this is the main power live from battery for fuse box) which then goes to pin terminal 30B in fuse box. Terminal spade pins 30B and 30 are both linked according to the Bentley manual wiring diagram. Fuel relay (167) this has 9 pin contacts. Pin 1 = possibly not used but is used on some 8v and 16v and G60 up to about 1992 / early 1993 MK2 Golf / Jetta / Corrado. But this is on the 50 circuit which only receives power once ignition is in the start position, according to the Bentley manual. Pin 2 = power live from ignition switch will energize relay when ignition is in on position or cranking engine. Pin 3 = output power to ECU from terminal pin G1/3 (G1 is the white 12 pin plug in back of fuse box) yellow/blue 0.5mm wire goes to terminal pin 6 of ECU. Pin 4 = goes to fuse 18 (20 amp) also partially be connected to Lambda sensor control module via G1/8 red/yellow 1mm wire. (G1 is a 12 pin white plug in back of fuse box) Pin 5 = goes to G1/6 possibly not used (G1 white plug pin 6 of this 12 pin plug) Pin 6 = this is connected to terminal single spade pin 30B in fuse box = 4mm red wire goes to terminal pin 30 in fuse box (permanent live) Pin 7 = goes to terminal pin G2/7 of white 12 pin plug and terminal pin T/2 (T is 2 pin green plug) in fuse box, possibly not used blank. Pin 8 = blank possibly not used, but on some VAG vehicles can be an earth. Pin 9 = goes to terminal pin M/4 of black 6 pin plug, and terminal pin G2/5 of white 12 pin plug, and U1/8 of 14 pin blue plug. Possibly not used blank. hope this helps Si

Ok so this is how the fusebox looks without the red connector block adapter fitted. Purple dot = is terminal spade Z1 (possibly not used on VR6) = but on some 8v or 4 cyl VAG vehicles it is linked to fuel pump/relay and fuse 18, and possibly power feed to fuel injectors ? Red dot = is terminal spade 30B = permanent power live to fuel relay (167) but this relay won't activate/energize until ignition is switched on. Yellow dot = is terminal spade 30 = this is the permanent live from car battery, which should be connected to 30B to give live 12v to fuel relay. Think it's a red 4mm wire might have a connection point mid way along wire which then transfers battery live to 30B pin. Or some vehicles I think may have a fusiable link where the wire is joined, either covered with black insolation tape, or connection point plug, or soldered with heat shrink tube covering. Looks like the red connector block adapter is fitted over terminal spade pins 30B and 30, to allow more smaller wire's to be fitted, but not all VAG vehicles used this adapter block. Si

No don't connect that single black wire to G1/12 as that is possibly for the tachometer, and might blow/damage something. If that black wire is keeping the engine running where it was connected to before, then something is wrong. Just to clarify this black wire you say it's connected to the red connector block at the end of fusebox, is it the one I've marked with white dots in your photo ?? Si

Hello there, according to the Bentley manual the ECU power supply relay (109) has 6 pin contacts. Pin 1 = earth Pin 2 = possibly on same circuit track as tachometer, looks like it's linked to D/6 which is linked also to G1/12 ECU tacho signal, green/black 0.5mm wire to terminal pin 22 in ECU. But on some VAG vehicles D/6 is left blank I think. Pin 3 = ignition power to energize relay once turned to on position or when cranking engine. Pin 4 = permanent live 12v from battery. Pin 5 = is linked to G1/7 black/brown 0.5mm wire to terminal pin 9 in ECU. Pin 6 = power output to ECU linked to G1/10 red/blue 2.5mm wire which goes to (E7 = welded wiring harness point / multipoint fuel injection wiring harness loom), wire changes from 2.5mm red/blue wire to 1.5mm red/blue wire to terminal pin 23 in ECU. Also partly linked to the N80 Evaporative emission frequency valve (purge valve) G1-12 pin white plug = engine compartment wiring harness. In back of fuse box on lower row roughly mid way, look at image attached below. D-12 pin green plug = Optional equipment wiring harness. In back of fuse box on lower row 5th from left. Look at image attached below. Hope this helps Si

Hi Chris, any news or updates regarding the headlight lenses. Many thanks Si

Chris if your pricing is close as possible to the original OEM retail price/s, I understand yours will be slightly higher due to the work involved, but as long as it's not priced miles away so to speak. Many thanks Si

I've bought a few things from Chris over the last couple of years, and can confirm his reproduction parts are of great quality, yes they can be expensive for some things, but as Chris has mentioned most or all of his items are made from molds and not 3D printed. I do agree that 3D printing is no good for certain items, but it can be good though for others, I presume it comes down to the quality of the printer or software plus materials ? Unfortunately if you say the word Corrado the price goes up twice or three times the amount, as mentioned by others regarding secondhand parts on Ebay. New headlights were roughly £160 each from VW main dealership, but VW Classic Parts/Heritage was £180 for N/S/F headlight and £235 for O/S/F headlight. lens were something like £50 per side from main dealership, but from Classic Parts/Heritage lens were £57 to £65. Front fog light units later type were between £150 & £180 per each side. VW Classic Parts/Heritage only had the N/S/F available at roughly £250 I've seen a brand new set of headlights going for £1000 on Ebay, and new set of later type fog lights going for £800, and secondhand between £200 to £300 just for one fog light with cracked or missing glass lens 😱 I feel lucky to of found some later type fog light units for £60 to £70 about 3+ years ago, and a complete set with indicators in A1 condition for £199 about 2+ years ago. Plus purchased a new set of indicators for £50 per side, from Heritage when they had some reproduced about 4 or 5 years ago, which are now obsolete sadly. The biggest issue us Corrado owners have is a massive lack of parts, and prices being well above the Golf/Passat parts, VW Classic Parts are producing new replacement items, but this can be hit and miss as they're either only available for the left side. VW Heritage have helped in the past but due to the numbers of Corrado's being much lower compared to Golfs, the powers at be at Heritage are not willing to spend too much time & resources on low demand expensive items, like I say they have helped in the past with the headlight protectors. But for them to reproduce the headlight units or Len's it'll never happen as they're specially made items, and the demand is much lower compared to the other VW model range. Si

Hello Stone, yeah I've been reading various different things online about the Walbro pumps and they do have good reviews, also I've read through an old thread off here from about 2006, and they talk about the Walbro pump and Sytec fuel pump. Link below of the thread I found, you might have already seen it ? Also watched a video on YouTube of a guy who had fitted a cheap in tank fuel pump, which had failed after only about 1 year, I think his Corrado is a VR6 but does have a Walbro pump fitted under car. Si

Yeah definitely that would be a big help if you could please upload some photos of your setup, blimey possiblity of over 300bhp going through your front wheels, sounds like a rocket 🚀 Si

No worries. According to the Bentley manual the torque setting for the oil pressure switches is 25 Nm (18 ft Ib) Photo image from the Bentley manual attached below. Si

Hello there, I think it's number (1)** in the attached Etka photo image, also you could use the first number (2)** that's listed, BUT YOU'LL HAVE TO DOUBLE CHECK THE PRESSURE RATING BEFORE PURCHASING, as they can sometimes range from 0.25, 0.3 and 0.4 Bar. Yours I think is the 0.3 Bar one BROWN, but you can get them in colours white or red, but like I say you'll have to double check the pressure before purchasing one. Also I've listed below all the oil pressure and temperature sensors, that are used on the 4 cyl Corrado engine's on the cylinder head and engine block areas. (1) ** Low oil pressure switch set at 0.25 or can be 0.4 Bar (blue) or set at 0.3 Bar (brown) Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 028 919 081H (2) ** Low oil pressure switch set at 0.3 Bar (white) or can be (red) sometimes. Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 056 919 081 (2) High oil pressure switch set at 1.6 to 2.0 Bar (white) Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 056 919 081C (2) Oil pressure switch set at 1.2 to 1.6 Bar (black) Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 068 919 081D (2) Oil pressure switch set at 0.75 to 1.0 Bar (grey) Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 068 919 081C (8) Coolant temperature sender (mainly for KR and 9A engines) Part number 049 919 501 All the above oil pressure switches and the coolant temp use the same sealing washer (9) Part number N0138115 (21) Oil pressure switch for oil gauge (large cylindrical type) Set at 1.8 bar (black) Double spade/nut contacts. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 035 919 561A Normally fitted to oil filter housing. (21) Oil pressure switch for oil gauge (large cylindrical type) range from 0 bar up to 10 bar. Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 535 919 561B Normally fitted to oil filter housing. (22) Oil temperature sensor Part number 049 919 563A (22) Oil temperature sensor Part number 1H0 919 563 Hope this helps Si

Hello there, I did some research on car covers about 2 years ago when I needed to replace mine, I looked online including Amazon and Ebay, but found a good thread on here in the end saying good things about the Halfords car covers being good. I bought one from Halfords in size medium (all weather cover) it's elasticated around each of the 4 corners, and has 3 securing straps that go under car and clip together. Halfords item number: 268806 when I bought mine it was £60 price now in 2020 is £65 I think. Link below Hope this helps Si

If that Golf isn't the holy grail then I don't know what is 🏆 I bet the person who purchases that will be down the pub in the next few months, and say to their mates, "guys I've found a superb barn find" Oh yeah don't tell me it's only done 50K "no only done 738 miles " WHAT 😱 I would love to be a fly on the wall for that one 😂😆 Si

The link that Jim kindly loaded up in his above post doesn't work, so I've managed to find it. Please find Jim's link below just in case anyone needs the info from it. Si

Hi Toby, thanks for sorting this it's much appreciated 👍 Si

Hi Hasan, as the other guys have said if it could be made out of stainless, that would be amazing 👍 Si

Thanks took me a while to make the new piece the right shape, as it's curved underneath the sill which was also corroded on the back, so wanted it to be one piece rather then welded together in small bits. I suppose I could have patched it but I decided to cut all the rust out that I could see, and weld in fresh clean metal. Good to hear you've found a place to work on your car and close to where it is 👍 Si

I've just found these photos online that may be of help, but it's pretty much what Fendervg has mentioned above, your best bet is to remove the seat, rather then trying to do it in situ. First photo shows the seat completely removed, and highlighted in yellow writing, regarding the anchor bolt to remove. Second photo is from VW Etka look at item 5, that I think is the bracket that the seat belt stalk is bolted to. Hope this helps Si

Yeah it's pretty much as Keyo has mentioned. Plus the sill is a box section same as the main chassis, so any rust hole in this is considered dangerous, including rear axle beam, front subframe, front cross member support beam, Plus any rust hole within 30cm of any main body structure, or suspension mount / seat mount, seat belt mount, engine/gearbox mounts will all fail the MOT. To be honest I'm in the same boat as you PFNSHT, my rear sill lower arch has gone on both sides of my Corrado, I've rebuilt the left side, but still got the right side to do. First photo is the left side rear sill lower arch I rebuilt/repaired. Second photo is the right side that is corroded through that I'll sort out soon. This will fail the MOT as it's within 30cm of the rear axle beam suspension bush/mount, plus the corroded area is part of the sill box section. Si 👍

I'm using some thick seam sealer as a protective coat instead of underseal, on the areas I've repaired, then as a precaution I'll try this stuff over the top of the seam sealer. TechniQ Stone Chip Before I even applied the seam sealer, I painted a few layers of paint first, zink or galvanized paint, then some red oxide paint, then used some Hammerite stone chip, once that was dry then applied the seam sealer. Hammerite stone chip Si

Found this thread which has some good info on the G60 (link below) Si

Looks like VW test their current vehicles up to roughly 6 months continuously, to see how they do against rust. Then completely strip the vehicles down once all corrosion testing is done. They state 6 months of continuous testing equals to about 12 years of ownership ? Si

Hi Toby, I haven't been on here regularly lately due to other commitments, so only just seen this, has the WhatsApp group discussion taken place. And if so what's going ahead a part from the Wiki of cause. Many thanks Si

Hi gang sorry to be the party pooper but ideally this thread needs moving to the correct forum section, i.e (Engine Bay section) Forum questions and answers is purely regarding the forum only. Many thanks Si 👍

Hi gang sorry to be the party pooper but ideally this thread needs moving to the correct forum section, i.e (Drivetrain section) Forum questions and answers is purely regarding the forum only. Many thanks Si 👍