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Small wiper linkage arm fitment Fitment of the new wiper linkage isn't that bad to be honest, the old one you remove by using a flat ended screw driver, or in some cases it can lift off by hand if the bushes are really worn out. But first of all you'll have to switch on the ignition and turn the wipers on with the bonnet open, once you can see both ends of the old wiper linkage, quickly switch off the ignition and remove the old wiper linkage using a flat ended screw driver, then once the small linkage arm is completely removed use a clean cloth, or a small piece of fine to medium sand paper to remove any of the old plastic nylon off the two ball joints, (The ball joints are what the wiper linkage fits / rotates on) Now use a very small amount of EP grease (this is the grease that you use on wheel bearings) the grease helps to pop on the new linkage arm, plus lubricates the ball joints once the linkage arm is fitted. NOTE !! PLEASE TAKE NOTE OF HOW THE OLD LINKAGE ARM COMES OF, AS THEY ONLY FIT ON ONE WAY SO IF YOU FIT THE NEW LINKAGE ARM WRONG THE WIPERS MAY NOT WORK CORRECTLY. The small linkage has a kink roughly in the centre, and the longer shoulder should be straight parallel to the kink, but the shorter shoulder should have a slight bend to the left. In the attached photos below you'll see 2 old small linkages, one is fully attached and the other is loose on the floor but up side down, I've written on the attached linkage F = FRONT -(is the longer shoulder) TOP = raised kink in centre, and B = BACK -(is the shorter shoulder) [ATTACH=CONFIG]77804[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77805[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77806[/ATTACH] The longer shoulder fits to the wiper motor crank arm (this nylon bush has the 2 small tabs on the under side) [ATTACH=CONFIG]77807[/ATTACH] And the shorter shoulder fits to the drivers wiper spindle, and has a slight bend to the left. (this nylon bush has no tabs) [ATTACH=CONFIG]77808[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77806[/ATTACH] In this second photo above, the old linkage on the floor on it's side, you can clearly see that the centre kink is parallel with the right longer shoulder, and that the left shorter shoulder has a slight bend in it. This is how the small linkage should look. READY TO FIT NEW With the new linkage arm ready to fit on, start at the wiper motor end and push the new linkage on, you might need a pair of pliers or large grips, (you have to push / press on the metal part of the linkage arm close to where the nylon bush is, and on the crank arm from the wiper motor near to where the small ball joint is, and carefully press the two parts together to get the wiper linkage arm on) But be careful as you can damage the nylon bushes very easily, (The bushes are the round black or grey circler part at each end of the linkage arm) Then at the other end of the wiper linkage arm where it fits directly onto the drivers wiper spindle, you have to move the wiper arms to their full top wipe so that the drivers wiper is at the edge of the drivers side A-pillar, this way you'll be able to see the small ball joint on the end of the wiper spindle. Here you'll have to use as before a pair of pliers or large grips, but I tried this when I was fitting mine and found it a bit tight to get any pliers in there, so I got a 1/2" ratchet extension a short one and carefully jammed it under the drivers wiper spindle arm, directly under where the small ball joint is, so that it wouldn't flex / bend when I was applying a little pressure when fitting the new linkage. 1) Basically I used a short 1/2" extension under the drivers wiper spindle, so that the spindle arm wouldn't flex / bend downwards 2) Plus I used a long 19mm 3/8" socket, attached to it was a long 3/8" extension, I carefully put the 19mm socket over the linkage bush that I wanted to press on, and holding the 19mm socket complete with extension in my left hand, I used a copper head hammer in my right hand and carefully hit the end of the extension, with just one or two soft / medium hits with the hammer the new linkage arm was completely attached. NOTE ! (The 19mm socket has to completely fit over the nylon bush, not to fit on it other wise you could damage it) NOTE ! But don't hit or press with pliers directly onto the plastic nylon bushes or you could damage them, you've got to press down on the metal part of the linkage arm on the edge, just beside the nylon bush so as to not damage them. Hope this helps. Any problems give me a shout and I might be able to sort out some photo's, and post them up on this thread. Many thanks Si

Hello there, on my old MK2 Scirocco that I used to have years ago, that always had a spongy brake pedal. I even had I drive in a mate's Scirocco, to see how it compared to mine and it was exactly the same, with a spongy brake pedal. But on the MK2 and MK3 Golfs with standard none ABS brakes, the brake pedal is that bit more firmer, compared to the MK2 Scirocco. On my Corrado it has got ABS brakes, the brake pedal is nice and firm. But on the early none ABS Corrado's the brake pedal, should feel fairly firm similar to that on the Golfs. I would check you've got the correct master cylinder fitted, just incase it is the wrong one fitted, I'm not saying it is but just best to be sure. Your brake master cylinder inner chamber / seal size, is about 22mm to 22.2mm for none ABS I think, so if a master cylinder is fitted with a slightly, different sized inner chamber / seal, this can sometimes make the brake pedal feel different. Plus in the past I bought a new master cylinder, fitted it to the car and the brake pedal kept on feeling spongy, even when I had bled the brakes several times, so in the end I checked everything that I had removed, everything looked ok no leaks anywhere. I thought then the only other thing is a faulty new part, so I took it back and tried another new replacement, and it fixed the problem for me. So check everything you've removed / replaced, get someone to assist you by holding pressure on the brake pedal, and have a look at all the bleed nipples / brake pipes, that you've unscrewed or had removed completely for any leaks. Hope this helps. Si

Another item I'd love to see again being back in stock, is the rear screen window outer seal. Part number I think is: 535-853-355A 01C Si

UPDATE: I've just received a text message from carrier delivery firm DPD, looks like the order will be delivered to me tomorrow 19/02/2014 or latest Thurs 20/02/2014 I'll let you guys know once the items have been delivered to me. SECOND BATCH This is the list as it stands now. 1) Stuarttaylor37 (2) 2) Micky Fletch (1) 3) Goldie (1) 4) Erallus (1) 5) Mic_VR (2) 6) Riley (1) 7) Fendervg (1) 8) Hofmiester (1) 9) Neuon2003 (1) 10) Stevec14 (2) 11) Sean_Jaymo (1) 12) Jon_VR6 (1) 15 of in total. I have ordered 15 of in total so 15 of to sell, which are now spoken for on the attached list above. :Has ordered another: Dragon (1) This is for Batch 3 which will start in the next 3/4 weeks. Many Thanks Si

Hello Carl (CARL355M) I've received your payment and your delivery address, your item is boxed up and ready to go, it will be sent out first thing tomorrow morning, via Royal Mail 1st class standard Delivery as requested. Carl you should receive your item on Thurs 20/02/2014 I've sent you a PM of the above as well. Once again many thanks. Si

Update: Looks like all 15 will be ok. SECOND BATCH This is the list as it stands now. 1) Stuarttaylor37 (2) 2) Micky Fletch (1) 3) Goldie (1) 4) Erallus (1) 5) Mic_VR (2) 6) Riley (1) 7) Fendervg (1) 8) Hofmiester (1) 9) Neuon2003 (1) 10) Stevec14 (2) 11) Sean_Jaymo (1) 12) Jon_VR6 (1) 15 of in total. I have ordered 15 of in total so 15 of to sell, which are now spoken for on the attached list above. :Has ordered another: Dragon (1) This is for Batch 3 which will start in the next 4 weeks. Many Thanks Si

Hello CARL355M, I bought two for my self one I fitted to my Corrado this weekend just gone, and the other I was keeping as a spare. But you can have it if you want as you need it ASAP by the sounds of it. Drop me a PM of where you are in the UK or if you're outside of the UK, and I'll give you a price regarding the postage. The spare new wiper linkage I have is £15.52 + postage, if you are in the UK then the postage cost to you should be £4.30, which is a 1st class signed on delivery. But can be a little more if you're from Ireland or the Channel Islands, so for this reason I normally send out 2nd class standard delivery to these destinations, as it's a bit cheaper. There is an amended postage cost for deliveries in the UK, at the top of page 9 on this thread, cheers. PS CARL355M I've just sent you a PM of the above info as well. Many thanks. Si

Hello there, apologies for not updating sooner I've been really busy, so haven't had as much time as I did around 2 to 3 weeks ago. UPDATE - of second batch. I've been told by VW Heritage that the order has landed in the UK, so hoping to have delivery to me by Friday 21/02/2014 or mid part of next week. Many thanks. Si

That is a nice motor I bet it goes well, lush colour and lush wheels. I'm sure you'll be wining some shows with that one. Si :thumbleft:

Update: Right these are the new HT Lead removing tools, the part number on them is 027-905-448A [ATTACH=CONFIG]77523[/ATTACH] Looking at my old HT lead removing tool, the part number on it is: 054-905-448 [ATTACH=CONFIG]77524[/ATTACH] This is the new and old one together. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77527[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77528[/ATTACH] The new one you can see is slightly taller, due to the small hook piece on the front edge, what I've done to my new one is cut that small hook piece off, to make it the same as the old one. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77529[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77531[/ATTACH] As you can see they are now looking the same [ATTACH=CONFIG]77536[/ATTACH] The far left one hasn't been cut down, the centre one is my old one, and the far right one is the one I've cut the hook piece off. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77537[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77538[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77539[/ATTACH] I had to cut the small hook piece off my new one, as it wouldn't quite fit over my genuine VW HT Leads, where as on the none genuine HT leads it might fit over, with out having to remove the small hook piece. This is the new one that I cut the small hook piece off, it now fits on to my genuine VW HT Leads [ATTACH=CONFIG]77540[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77541[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77542[/ATTACH] But the new ones won't clip on to the head of the HT Lead like this. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77543[/ATTACH] But does fit on the back of the HT Lead like this, when you are wanting to remove the HT Lead off the spark plug. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77540[/ATTACH] The other 3 new ones I haven't cut the hook piece off them, only on the one that I'm keeping for my self, if anyone is interested in one of the 3 new ones, then please give me a shout. If not then I'll just keep them as spares, or fit one on all four HT Leads. Many thanks. Si

Quick Update: I've just received the new HT Lead Tools today, I was told I should have delivery next week so they've arrived early. I'll post up some photo's of the new ones and compare them with the old one on my car. Be back shortly. Many thanks. Si

Here's some photo's of my old HT lead tool: This is it clipped to the head of the HT lead. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77488[/ATTACH] This is just starting to lift the tool off. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77489[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77490[/ATTACH] Now with the tool completely lifted off, turn it round the other way and attach it, to the back of which ever HT Lead you are wanting to remove. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77491[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77492[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77493[/ATTACH] Now the tool is placed on the back of the HT Lead, using your index finger lift the tool up, which in turn will lift the HT Lead up and off the spark plug. Repeat the same procedure on the other HT Leads, if you're removing all of them. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77494[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77495[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77496[/ATTACH] Cheers. Si

Oh yeah I forgot about that, I've been on a beer break :lol: Cheers. Si

I'll post up some photo's tomorrow of my old one, which is still on my car at the moment. The tool clips over the top head of HT lead 1, and when you need to remove the HT leads you lift off the tool off HT lead 1, and place it on the back of the lead where it hooks over, then using your index finger you lift the tool up which in turn lifts the HT lead off the spark plug. I'll show you tomorrow in the photo's that I'm going to post up. Many thanks Si

Here are a few photo's of the item in question. This is what I should be receiving next week. [ATTACH=CONFIG]77480[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77481[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77482[/ATTACH] Many thanks. Si

Ok mate no worries, I don't want any payment yet, not until I've 100% had delivery of the goods to me. I'll post up on here a photo or two of the item shortly. Be back soon. Many thanks. Si

Hello mate, here's a link to all the parts of the wiper system. http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_show&cat=vw&t_id=112306&id_pic=19070&cod=6N0955427 I haven't taken my wipers completely to bits in ages, hence the link above. It should show you all the parts in the correct order. Sorry I can't be of more help. Hope this helps. Si

Yeah once you've removed the door card, you'll also have to remove the inner window scraper seal, these are normally a lot easier to remove. It's the black strip of plastic that is fitted to the top of the inner door, level with the dash board. Basically the top of the door card fits slightly into the inner scraper seal, so when you remove the door card don't force anything, 1)open door and remove the black plastic lock pin, (this is the one that you push down to lock and pull up to unlock the door) 2)Removing the door card. (two screws are in the outer side - on door catch side) 2a)Will have to remove the inner door handle cover, they are clipped on so you'll have to use a small / medium screw driver - flat ended, to carefully take it off. Once cover is removed you should see 2 large philips screws - unscrew them slightly, as you've got to remove the electric window switch first before you remove the screws above. 2b) The electric window switch should lift up using a small flat ended screw driver, once that is out slightly remove the multi plug off the switch. 2b1) The door catch puller inside, there's a plastic surround that helps to keep the door card in place, this plastic surround you have to push / slide it forward or backwards, I can't remember which way, I think it's forward. Just don't force anything, you'll know which way it'll go because you'll feel it. 2b2) Right with the above surround removed, you'll now be able to completely remove those 2 large philips screws (from 2a) 2c) There might be one or two small screws a long the bottom of the door card, plus might be one near to where the speaker is, you might even have to remove the speaker cover. 2d) The door card should now pull off, BUT it could still be attached in places, as there are normally some small white, green or black push in clips, (these are attached to the inner side of the door card, and clip in to the inner door skin) simply use your fingers and carefully prize door card away from door, you should hear a popping noise once the clip / clips have come away from the inner door skin. 2e) Starting at the bottom of door card, lift door card outwards -(away from door) then carefully pull door card away out from inner scraper seal, and now you'll have to lift the whole door card upwards, as you've got to lift it over the locking pin arm shaft / rod NOTE If the door card doesn't want to lift off then there might still be a screw, or clip still attached. So when you start to pull the door card away from the door, just be careful and go at it slowly if you haven't done one before. 3) Now with the door card fully removed, you'll have to remove the door membrane, this is the clear or black plastic covering that stops rain water from entering in to your car. (Best bet is to pull it away from the top, and then carefully pull it down, but keep the bottom edge attached. 4) Remove the inner window scraper seal, it should lift up away from the door, if you start at the outer edge where the locking pin shaft / rod is. 5) Remove the outer window scraper seal (as in the video attached from earlier on) 6) Reconnect the electric window switch. (as you'll have to raise and lower the window to gain access to the two 10mm bolts) These bolts are 6mm or 8mm in diameter with a 10mm hex head - hence use of socket. 7) Now you'll need a 1/4" ratchet / medium to long extension, and a 10mm socket for the above. (unscrew these bolts slightly but nut fully) NOTE: There should be a whole in the inner door that the two bolts above will line up with, this is how you unbolt them or do them up. 8) Use one of your hands to support the window glass, and the other to remove the two bolts. Or get someone to assist you on this bit (i.e by holding the glass for you) 9) With the window completely unbolted use the electric window switch, to lower the regulator to the bottom of the door, this just makes it a little easier to remove the window glass. 10) You've got to take the window glass out at an angle, other wise you won't be able to get it out. (I think I did it by tilting the glass down forward, and raising the back edge up, then the glass window should lift up out of the gap, between the inner and outer door skins. NOTE: If you don't have the two inner and outer scraper seals removed, then you won't be able to get the window out, as it won't fit up through the gap. 11) You shouldn't have to do this, but you might have to remove slightly the rubber door frame seal, (The main issue is the window channel rubber lining, it can restrict the removal of the window glass, as it makes the door / window frame that bit thicker, so taking the window out can be a little tricky, it will come out but might not on the first few goes) I can't remember now off hand if I took it out from the inside, or from the outside of the door / window frame when removing the window. REPLACING WINDOW: Then putting back in the replacement window is as reverse of above. NOTE: When you have the glass back inside the door and are ready to fit the two 10mm bolts in, bolt them up and test operation of the window going up and down, as you may have to adjust it slightly. WHEN YOU ARE REATTACHING THE INNER MEMBRANE YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO REUSE THE OLD SEALANT, THAT IS STILL ON THE DOOR, IF NOT THEN USE SOMETHING LIKE TIGER REAL AS IT'S STRONG AND WILL LAST. NOTE: Make sure you re-grease the window channel guides and rollers, and check operation of your door catch, as they can seize up so this would be the perfect time to grease / oil that up as well. The same goes for the outer door handle. NOTE: Check as well the wiring in the bottom of the door, as the window can catch and start slicing through the wiring each time it is lowered. I don't think I've forgotten anything else ? Hope this helps. Si

Sorry forgot to mention the postage above is with in UK mainland, if out side of the UK then please ask for quote. Many thanks. Si

Hello there, I've managed to get hold of a few HT Removal Tools for the MK2 Golf / Corrado 16v engines, these are brand new VW / OEM for the 16v HT Leads, They are made of black thick plastic and usually they clip onto HT lead number one, ready for when you have to remove the leads to change your spark plugs. I think years ago when you were able to purchase them from the main dealers, they were orange or white in colour, but these are black with the VAG logo on them, complete with part number 027-905-448A Expecting delivery to me by Monday 10th / Tuesday 11th February of next week, might be able to get hold of some more, not sure yet. Looks like I'll be getting 4 in total, 1 for my self and 1 for Mr LARCENY FINK for his MK2 Golf, but I've just got to double check with him to make sure that he still wants one. So this will leave 2 left over for sale. Cost is £1.99 per each Postage is £2.60 for standard 2nd class delivery, this is a NONE tracking service. Will be packed and sent in a jiffy parcel, a small one. Many thanks. Si

Hello mate, I bought it last year in early October of 2013, cost me £51.78 VAT was at 20% = £10.35 So the total I payed was £62.13 Bought it through VW Heritage. Or your best offer close to the above price. I won't charge you for any carriage I'll just write that off. I can send out via 1st or 2nd class Royal Mail signed for on delivery, if you're in the UK. Cheers Si

Hello there, I think the 1.8 16v (KR) and the 2.0 16v (9A) have the same standard size / bore exhaust. The only real difference between them is the 1.8 has the hook type mounts on the centre silencer, and the 2.0 has a 6" long straight bar which the rubber mounts slide over. I think it's 2-1/4" OD (54mm) The ID is roughly about (52mm) Then where the pipe flairs out slightly where it has to slide over the end of the catalytic converter, this is about 58mm to 59mm OD And the end of the catalytic converter is about 55mm OD pipe is about 1.5mm thick. Hope this helps. Si

Hello MOONLIGHTVR6, sorry mate I don't have a spare door window, but like I say I have got a spare new scraper seal if you need it. Cheers Si

Sorry to hear about this mate hope you get it sorted. Here's a link for any other parts you may need. http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_show&cat=vw&t_id=111390&added_=VOLKSWAGEN%20Scirocco/Corrado%201991 You might have to remove the N/S outer window scraper seal, as you can't always get the replacement glass in with out removing it. So you might have to replace that as well as they normally bend out of shape once removed. I had to remove mine when I replaced my N/S window regulator, had to remove the whole window glass up through out the top of the door. I have got a new N/S door window outer scraper seal for mine, as my old one bent slightly when I removed it, but I haven't fitted it yet as I'm having the door sprayed in the summer due to a little rust, so MOONLIGHTVR6 if you do need one ASAP you can have my new at cost price what I payed for it. Here's a link on removing the sraper seal: Si

I've just find on Ebay a load of the VR6 steering wheels, looks like the ones that you guys are after. I thought they were new but says refurbised, don't look too bad really. item number is 140373132939 Looks like it's all in German, oh hang on it's in english as well right at the bottom of the sellers page. They cost £87.99 euros = to £72.83 pounds. says they have more then 10 in stock. Postage states they do send to the UK, cost is £18.00 euros = to £14.00 pounds. Also says that they would want you to post back to them your same style old steering wheel, so they can refurbish that and sell it on I guess. Here's the link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lederlenkrad-Lenkrad-VW-Golf-3-VR6-GTI-Passat-Corrado-r/140373132939?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.RVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D4609405475520115284%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D20131017132637%26rk%3D0%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D201031879884 Si