vw rule

Yeah that's interesting Kev just how close the R32 Corrado / Golf are in performance. My money's on the Corrado all the way :awesome: Regarding the MK5 Golf that must be why VW bolted a big turbo to that GTI engine, to try and make it perform well due to it's extra weight then compared to that of the MK4 Golf like you say Kev. New cars just seem to be getting heavier which is a bit pants. I haven't really commented on the G60 as I've never really driven one, I can understand why people may be weary of them due to some of the stories of the G-charger / engine letting go, but as long as it's serviced it should be ok really. I suppose if you add a lot more BHP to the engine but then don't strengthen it up, with stronger pistons / con-rods / bearings and so on, then may be things can let go more often then they should, so to speak. I haven't really looked in to the performance differences, if any that is, with the MK2 Golf G60 and the Corrado G60, I know the Golf is a few KGs lighter then the Corrado, but then the Corrado has a more aerodynamic body shell. And the other thing is, do they both run with the same gearbox as each other ?? I'll be dreaming about Corrado's tonight :luvlove: CORRADO :lol: Cheers. Si

Here you go mate, I've found that thread. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=58637 Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, yes clockwise is the correct direction to rotate the tensioner round, to tension the cam belt. As the tensioner should lift up slightly as it tensions the belt, this is due to the bolt hole through the tensioner being slightly off set, so as to give it a oblong effect. The centre of the tensioner should compress up against the block, once the nut has been done up to the correct torque. The centre of the tensioner then shouldn't move, only the outer pulley part that the cam belt slides / runs in will spin only. If the tensioner nut still won't do up enough to keep the centre part held, then the threads could have gone in the nut, or the stud threads may have gone. Was there a washer in front of the nut, or is it a serrated flange nut. It's just that on some of these tensioners, they're held in place with a spring washer and plain nut, or it's a serrated flange nut that inter locks onto the serrated shoulder on the tensioner to keep it held tight in place. You could always apply some lock tight to the stud / nut threads, but only if their threads are in good condition. This is what I mean by serrated flange nut http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Flange-Nuts-To-Fit-Our-Stainless-Bolts-and-Screws-/150792649468?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item231bf13afc This is a plain nut http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-HEX-FULL-PLAIN-NUT-TO-FIT-OUR-A2-STAINLESS-BOLTS-AND-SCREWS-/290745065923?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item43b1c1a1c3 This is a nylon lock nut http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Stainless-Steel-Nyloc-Nuts-To-Fit-Our-Stainless-Bolts-and-Screws-/150869240033?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item232081e8e1 There is a thread on this forum somewhere that DAVIDWORT mentions the difference in length, of the 1.8 16v and 2.0 16v tensioner stud. I'll see if I can find it. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, Yeah I've got to do mine at some point, as they've seen better days to be honest. Just out of interest which brand / make of cable did you go for in the end, was it Genuine or after market. The joys of owning / working on a Corrado :lol: Si

Cool, cheers for that Kev. Kev have you got the MK4 Golf then R32 ?? Or have you put a R32 lump in your Corrado ?? If so whats the difference in power and handling, between the two. Cheers. Si

Yeah that's what I get Kev they open up 100% as the KIT CAR. I've checked loads of times now. Si

I've clicked on those links now quite a few times, and they 100% open up as the KIT CAR sites. Please can we have one of the Corrado Forum administrators, to click on both the links in question, to put every body's mind at rest. Many thanks. Si :salute:

NO THERE IS NONE OF THAT CRAP on those links. Not unless your a pervo and your in to that, and you've clicked on some other site :oops: Someone would have to be a sick turd to put that kind of muck, up on any forum / site. Those links are 100% about the Ferrari / Lamborghini kit cars. OVER AND OUT :nono: Si :bad-words:

Yeah I found the 16 valvers do rev quite well but you've got to really rev them, below 55 MPH, where as the 8v's have better low down rev / power delivery. I've driven a Corrado 2.9 VR6 but that was a mates car that he had years ago. I've also driven a MK3 Golf 2.8 VR6 and found both are good through all the rev rages, with a good sharp power delivery. I'd go with the VR6 over the 16v as they've got better power delivery, the 16v feels like it's really on it's limit at high revs, where as the VR6 seems more balanced as the power is there slightly sooner, like with the 8v's. What about the VR6 2.8 / 2.9 24v engine or head are they any good on power, I'm only asking as I've never driven one. I wanted a Corrado VR6 but went for the 2.0 16v as the insurance was cheaper back in the day, my 2.0 16v is good but it does run out of puff towards the rev limit, where as the 1.8 16v (KR) seems to rev a bit freer and has better power delivery. I think the 1.8 16v (KR) came from the MK2 Golf (hot hatch) so it's always been it little gem of an engine from day one, where as the 2.0 16v (9A) came from the Passat (a family estate car) I don't think VW changed the (9A) spec at all when they fitted it in the Corrado, so it was never really set up from standard to perform as well as the KR engine. Don't get me wrong I love my Corrado that I've got but at some point, I might jump for the VR6 in the future. I've seen a few look alike super cars (Kit cars) like the Ferrari 355 (base car used MK2 Toyota MR2) Ferrari 360 / and a Ferrari 430 (base car used MK3 Toyota MR2) http://www.kitcarlist.com/ferrari-replica-kits.html I think as well there's a Lamborghini Gallardo (base car used I think is a Peugeot 406 coupe) http://addah0524.blogspot.co.uk/2010/08/lamborghini-kit-car.html Hope you find another Corrado or at least a car you really want. Si

Hello there, yeah basically as what DAVIDWORT has said above. I take it you spun the tensioner to hear if the bearing with in it was warn, or if the tensioner felt notchy to turn by hand back & fourth, or if there was any play in the bearing (excess free play movement) When I replace a cam belt I always replace the tensioner / idlers at the same time. You should always torque up the tensioner bolt, the correct torque is 33 ft-Ib (45Nm) for the 16v engine. Once you've done that just double check the tension of the cam belt between the cam sprocket & intermediate sprocket, then turn the engine over by hand via the crank sprocket bolt, until the timing marks are realigned correctly and check again the tension on the belt. The tension on the cam belt should be around 4mm, you should be able to twist the belt, between 45 & 90 degree any more then this and the belt will be too lose, the same if the belt can twist the full 90 degree it'll be on the lose side, because the new belt will stretch over time, it really needs to be between 45 and 90 degree. (4mm max movement) if checking belts play back and fourth. Tensioner torque setting is 33 ft-Ib (45Nm) Water pump / power steering pump pulley's, and the crankshaft pulley bolts to torque setting 15ft Ib (20Nm) these are the 6mm Allen key bolts. 3 fitted to water pump pulley. 3 fitted to power steering pump pulley. 4 fitted to crankshaft vibration damper. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, sorry to hear about your CV Joint, the main thing is your ok and second your car is as well. I've had in the past a hub N/S/F same as yours, where the old wheel bearing was really easy to press out, and after looking at the hub in detail, the inside of the hub was slightly multi coloured (orange / purple) looked as though the outer casing of the bearing had been spinning as well as the centre of the bearing, so used some bearing lock (like thread lock but much stronger) just to be on the safe side, anyway the new wheel bearing was again easy like the old one to press out / in, where as the O/S/F one was a lot harder to press out / in, which was a bit strange. So after a few mins to let the bearing lock set, this was applied to the outer wall of the wheel bearing, so as to prevent it from slipping / spinning against the inner wall of the hub. Then fitted both the large retaining circlips, in front and behind the N/S/F bearing. Boxed it all up with a new hub nut and torqued it up and it's been alright ever since, that was over 4 years ago, no funny noises or rumbling. But the strange thing is it did make a slight rumble from the N/S/F before but not all the time, so I'm guessing my old bearing was completely spinning in the hub not just the centre of the bearing that should. My point to this ACLWALKER is, was there anything that didn't look right before, when you replaced the CV joint back a long ? was there any signs of the bearing spinning like mine was ? You didn't hammer the new wheel bearings in did you, you did use a hydraulic press ? Because if you hammer one in it'll damage it big time. Did the hub nut screw on ok or was it cross threaded or over tightened, because if it was it may still tighten up and even torque up via the torque wrench, but the hub nut may not quite be on the hub face where it should be, so allowing the CV joint to move slightly in and out just, but only under load when driving the car, like when cornering or pulling away from a stand still, these are the extreme pressures that these CV joints are under, so if it's under tightened / over tightened or a faulty joint it was really just a matter of time until it would give way. It does look as though the metal / threads on the CV Joint have stretched looking at your attached photo, which to me could be down to a duff joint or over tightening, but if you did over tighten the nut, normally that'll round off first as it's weaker metal compared to the joint, so like I say I'd bet the old joint is a duff one made of weak metal. Steel when it's made has to go through a heating process of extreme temperatures to stop it from becoming brittle, because if not it'll just be of plain cast iron which doesn't have the flexibility of good steel. Normally drive shafts and other parts including the CV joints that are under extreme load are made, or should be made of good quality steel, meaning they should be able to flex and twist to a certain extant. So the heating process may not of bean done correctly, or your CV joint is from a weak bach of poor steel. Plus another thing to think about is that once the CV joint has been pushed all the way into the hub, it can't really move as it's inter locked into the splines, so the hub nut just retains it's correct position with in the hub, so unless the nut was cross threaded, or over tightened, or was only just lose, or if the joint it's self was totally duff from day one, it shouldn't really fail at all. Some hub nuts have a blue or black nylon liner covering in the threads on the outer edge of the nut, others can have a aluminum lining again in the threads on the outer edge, this is designed to bite in to the CV joint threads and so not allowing the nut to move, with out the assistance of a socket / ratchet to screw it up, plus this type of locking nut should only ever be used the once, if you do have to reuse one then use a hammer and lightly hammer the outer edge, to re-push the nylon liner inwards to make it re-bite on the CV joint thread again, also you could use some lock tight (thread lock) But like I say you are only meant to use this type of nut once. The other hub nuts that are used on other vehicles are like on some of the Fords and Vauxhalls, where there's a single hex castle hub nut, which allows a large split pin to pass through the castle nut head, plus the CV joint end completely locking the hub nut in place. Hope you get it all sorted. Hope this helps. Si

Hello Rob, It's best to carrier out a compression test on a engine yes when hot, but in your case where your's won't start it will be ok. This is because if there's any internal wear / damage it doesn't always show it's self, until the engine is up to temp and everything has expanded to normal working conditions. You need to have your foot down full on the throttle pedal to get a correct reading in PSI / BAR, because if not you'll be getting false low readings as the other guys have said. Just make sure you unplug the ignition coil / coil pack to stop the HT leads from firing (sparking) or if you don't then at least keep the HT leads as far away as possible from the spark plug ports, as fuel / oil vapour will be compressed out of the cylinders via the spark plug ports. Plus you can take out the fuel relay (number 67 on Corrado) just to stop the fuel vapour as fuel pump won't be working then. Note ! When you unplug the ignition coil / coil pack and fuel relay, it should be ok but it can bring up a fault code in the ECU, it won't affect the cars running but it's best to check and clear the fault codes if any are present. A good compression reading should be above 168 plus for most 1.6 / 1.8 / 2.0 / 3.0 litre engines, anything lower than 145 PSI (10 BAR) is on the weak side for most normal aspirated engines listed above. And 1.0 / 1.2 / 1.4 litre engines should be 150 PSI plus. But you'll have to check your data book to see what they should be. 2.9 / 2.8 VR6 (ABV / AAA) (190 BHP / 178 BHP) should be close to 188.5 to 190 PSI (13 BAR) 2.0 16v (9a) (136 BHP) should be close to 195 - 203 PSI (14 BAR) The 16 valvers have flat face pistons so have fairly high compression 1.8 16v (KR) (136 BHP) should be close to 195 - 203 PSI (14 BAR) 2.0 8v (2E / ADY) (115BHP) should be close to 174 - 180 PSI (12 BAR) G60 (PG) (158 BHP) should be close to 155 - 166.7 PSI (11.5 BAR) This engine is low compression as standard, as it has a supercharger so extra air will be blown into cylinders, which raises the compression once the engine is running. As long as the results are around the same from all cylinders, then you should be alright. If you've got the cylinders readings as 1= 175 PSI, 2=167, 3=159, 4=163 this is normal. But if they're reading 1=175 PSI, 2=135, 3=147, 4=163 then really it needs looking in to as two cylinders are down. As long as you've got a spark / fuel / compression and the engine is turning over fast enough, i.e battery is ok then she should start up. If one of the above is not working correctly then it could be the problem. When 1 or 2 sensors have gone down / stopped working, this can course the ignition system not to work and the same with the fuel system, as some sensors work together like the coolant temp switch and the lambda sensor, just for example. Is your car popping back out the exhaust like it's trying to start up, or is there a strong smell of fuel ?? Your best bet is to check she's sparking, and listen for the fuel pump buze, the fuel pump should prime the system once the ignition is turned on, is it doing this ?? Have you got a imobalizor fitted to your car ?? is it arming and disarming ?? Hope this helps. Si

Hello Steve, There doesn't seem to be anyone selling a hall sensor kit for the VR6, only really the complete distributor, I thought possibly BOSCH directly might have sold you one, but £375.00 just for a distributor from them like you say is on the steep side. I believe you can purchase the hall sensor for most of the 4 cylinder VW engines, it costs around £55.00 I think this is due to them being very common. Or for £57.00 to £70.00 you can purchase a after market distributor for the 16v's and G60 Corrado's, but to get the original spec BOSCH one it could be around £120.00 Some distributors you can change / replace the hall sensors, but on others they're a sealed unit so you can't, in which case it'll be a new distributor or a secondhand one. When these hall sensors do start to fail it depends on what type is used in the dizzy, as some will not allow the car to start at all once the sensor is weak, where as others still work just but the side effect is the car won't drive above 50ish MPH, and the whole cars performance will be effected. This sounds a lot like what you're having, the misfire / popping out of the exhaust could be the hall sensors position has moved slightly, as you said that you had to cable tie it up to keep it straight and tight, basically there's really small tolerances with in the hall sensor, as the gap between sensor and contact disc is so small, so any misalignment will greatly effect it's ability, which you already know as you've cable tied it up, as said above. I take it Steve the connector plug is ok for the distributor i.e from main wiring loom ? Anything bolted to the engine or near to it will suffer greatly with heat damage over time, if they're made of rubber or plastic. Basically the hall sensor is similar to the crank sensor, as they both need to pick up a break in signal (any rotation passing it's face) Hall sensor is normally inside the distributor, which tells the coil when to fire with the assistance of the ignition amplifier, which basically amplifies the power of the spark. So if the coil is dead the car won't start and the same goes for the ignition amplifier. The hall sensor reads off a round disc plate which normally has 4 continuous solid wings, with 4 slots (4 slots = gaps) this is to make the hall sensor pulsate off & on, other wise the coil would be firing all the time like a bolt of lightning none stop. Plus the distributor is fitted in the back of the cylinder head or engine block, but only when the engine is set at TDC meaning that number 1 cylinder is at the top of it's stroke, ready for the suction stroke i.e 1= suck, 2= squeeze, 3= bang, 4= blow. so if you were to remove the distributor cap, you should see that the rotor arm is pointing at N.o 1 HT lead, this is to ensure that the distributor / hall sensor spin in the correct sequence / time as the engine does. This is because the hall sensor unlike the crank sensor doesn't know when the engine has completed a full rotation. With the crank sensor they're normally only on vehicles fitted with a full HT lead powered coil, meaning all the HT leads work off the same one coil, so there will be no King lead used on this system. The crank sensor is normally fitted just above the crankshaft pulley, and detects the pulley's movement which then tells the high powered coil to fire in sequence. If you looked at a crank pulley from one of these engines, you will see small square shaped teeth all of the same size, but one will be slightly larger / longer then the rest, that's because this one tooth tells the ignition system that the engine has completed one full rotation. The crank sensor can be fitted just above the crank pulley on most engines like on the later VR6, or it can be fitted to the top of the gearbox bell housing and reads off the flywheel, which will have teeth on that just behind the starting ring gear. Or they can be fitted directly into the engine block at the front close to number 1 main journal, and read off the crankshaft directly. Hope this helps. Si

Oh yeah sorry :lol: :lol:

Hello there, really you should de-adjust (slacken off) the handbrake cables when ever you replace the rear discs / pads, because the adjusted plate with the two nuts, inside the car under the handbrake trim can be off centre, and if it is and you don't adjust the handbrake correctly it can course binding issues, or be slack one side. But you've said that it looks ok the adjuster in the car, is this what you mean when you say BALANCE PLATE ?? The handbrake cables should pull & push freely, if they don't then the outer casing has collapsed inside coursing the cable to snag, which in some cases will course the cable to retreat back making it look shorter, plus it will normally be very tight to pull out / push in. The tell tail signs of this is a bulge or bulges in the outer casing, which course the inner cable to snag or course a kink. Old cracked cable casings will let in water / damp as they're old and weathered, which can course the inner casing wall to rust (hence bulges showing) which will wear the inner nylon lining out prematurely. Check also the rubber boots are in good condition, normally there fitted to the caliper end of the cable, so as to stop any water running down between cable & outer casing. Check the handbrake cables for any cracking or bulges, plus check for free movement. Remember this can only be done correctly if the adjuster has been slackened off, and there is no tension on the cables. When you are checking the cables you shouldn't be able to feel any vibration / dragging, when pushing or pulling the inner cable, it should feel nice and smooth, if you can feel anything then chances are the inner nylon lining has worn through, meaning the cable is rubbing on the outer casing inner wall, which in turn will course the cable to fray over time as it's metal on metal. Also check for free movement of your caliper handbrake lever arms, as they can seize internally, giving the impression it's the cables when it's not. regarding the lengths of both the Corrado handbrake cables, I believe they are around about the same length, I can't remember off hand the exact length, but I think it's 1605mm to 1624mm max, or some do measure about 1613mm to 1615 There's bound to be a slight variation with the after markets ones, I can't remember what the original OEM cables are, length whys, but I would of thought it should be close to most of the after market ones anyway, as most of them fit the MK3 Golf / Corrado. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, there are a few guys off this forum who break VR6 Corrado's now & again, but if you have no joy finding any, then there are a few other options for you. 1) Euro Car Parts sell 2.9 VR6 Distributor. Part number is: 40 34 40 250 Listed as BOSCH Distributor Cost is £228.40 2) You could try your local VW Dealer but you really need to be sitting down, as the price from them will be well over the £300.00 mark. 3) You could try to obtain a 2.8 VR6 distributor but normally the ECU's are different to that of a 2.9, and so could the hall sendor in the dizzy, I don't know this for sure though. There is a new Distributor for sale on Ebay but it's for a 2.8 VR6 plus it's in the USA cost is around £85.32 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jetta-Passat-Corrado-VW-V6-VR6-2-8L-Ignition-Distributor-/231045919568?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item35cb68f350 4) You also could try this place below, it's a scrap yard, and they break Corrado's almost every day. Tel: 01295 263672 Malc Berry [email protected] Banbury Motor Spares Ltd Malc Berry Thorpe Mead,Thorpe Way Industrial Estate Banbury Oxfordshire OX16 4RZ 5) Or you could always contact BOSCH directly if your original dizzy is a Bosch one, all you need is the Bosch number off your old dizzy, and they might be able to supply you with a replacement hall sensor. BOSCH UK contact details are I think. Tel: 0844 892 0115 Or try this web site as it should tell you where your nearest BOSCH outlet is to you. http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk Once the above web site has opened up, simply go to the top of the Bosch front page and click on DEALER LOCATOR, then a small box will appear, when it does, scroll to the very top of that list, where it says AUTOMOTIVE PART SUPPLIER. Here it will ask you to put in a City name or Post Code near to where you are, once you've entered it, it should tell you your closest BOSCH DEALER. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, I can't remember if the seals and trim are still available from VW still ?? There should be 4 pieces to the front windscreen seal / trim. Original OEM numbers are as below. (1) 535 845 127A Main rubber one piece seal trim (fits around whole screen) (2) 535 853 305 Right panel trim piece (3) 535 853 307A Left panel trim piece (4) 535 853 306 Top rubber seal I believe though you can purchase the OEM spec parts still, from Ebay and from Germany. The Ebay item is only for the top rubber seal (4) and the main rubber trim seal (1) that goes right around the front screen. Cost for this is £7.49 Ebay item n.o = 12 11 49 41 75 40 But like I say you only get the two parts from this Ebay seller. There are two other companies on the internet who are stocking a large amount of items for the Corrado, both of which seam to have the same supplier as they are using the same part numbers for some goods. These two companies below stock the early type and the later VR6 type grills, also left and right floor panels, plus the later type clear indicators / fog lights I think. And the left and right OEM repair kits for the Corrado sunroof. This is just some of what they do / stock. The first company is European Performance Products.Com (Based in America) The part number for all 4 pieces of the front screen seal kit, is this = T8501351870 = all 4 pieces come complete in the kit. Cost in Dollars is $87.00 This in our money is £54.46 And the second company is ARZ Tuning (Based in or near Germany) The part number for all 4 pieces of the front screen seal kit, is this = T8501351870 = all 4 pieces come complete in the kit. Cost in Euros is £62.05 This in our money it's £51.80 Or again from ARZ Tuning you can purchase the whole front windscreen new, which will come complete with all 4 pieces of the screen seal kit. I don't know what the part number is, but the screen is made be Splintex Cost in Euros is £259.90 This in our money is £218.03 The screen is of the OEM original green tint, but you can choose as well a dark tint strip to help block out sun light, this can be Dark green or Blue shade at top of screen. Plus also VW Heritage may even be able to get the complete seal kit as well ?? Hope this helps. Si

Hello Dave, sorry for late reply just been really busy. I received the stainless radiator retaining clamps / bolts on Saturday just gone, Thanks Dave thats great. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Chris, sorry for late reply just been really busy. I received the fog light switch on Wednesday last week, nice one :thumbleft: Thanks again Chris. Si

Right here we go 1) Can clear half a building with my wind 2) Always seem to find the hidden obstacle: like when I was a kid out with mates in the new forest, and was the only one to find a rain water cast iron drain on a dirt track, with my bike that got the front wheel lodged in it, with me head butting the floor at full speed. God dam bike was a right off :bonk: 3) Two years ago chopped a squirrels head off when I was on my mountain bike, the dam thing ran across the road in to my front wheel, it broke two spokes as well :shrug: VR6 you are a legend eating all those snails :lol: Si :drinking:

Cool, hope you get your oil leak sorted. Si :thumbleft:

The very first page of this thread is a classic :lol: :lol: And of course Kev's home made man size sandwich :notworthy: For me it's Subway all the way, top filled brown baguette that won't let you forget, with tuna fish that just don't hiss, and topped with lettuce and sweet corn that makes me use the blow horn. Finished off with a chilled down coke along with some other foke :shrug: Si :lol:

Hello Matt, I think that's the one off the bulk head behind the engine, it shields the clutch pipe and one or two of the brake pipes as well. http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_show&cat=vw&t_id=110259&id_pic=19042&cod=191803326C Matt I might come back for this, but for now I'll hold fire on it, as some of the other guys off here were looking for some heatshields urgently. Matt if no one puts their name down for it in the next few days, then I'll pop back and purchase it. Cheers. Si :thumbleft:

Yeah that's it Rob, it will unscrew it just takes a few minutes, as you can only turn it in small movements. Si

Hope this hepls mate. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=47241&highlight=ignition+switch+removal http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82997&highlight=ignition+switch Hope you sort it mate. That little screw can be a swine, you will get there it just takes a little time. Si