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Ok mate no worries, this batch is coming from VW Classic Parts, so they should be 100% OEM or very close. I'll add your name Clumpy1 to the new group buy thread that I've just put up. Many thanks. Si

Hello there, I've managed to order a batch of the small wiper arm linkages, the part n.o of which is 536-955-325 these are only for RHD Corrado's. A total of 8 have been ordered, 2 of which are spoken for. I've been told 100% 8 are on order, but they might be able to send 10. Any of you guys and girls that need one I will be happy to sell at my cost price, these will be £15.52 each. It will take about 3 to 4 weeks I was told until I receive these linkage arms, which were ordered today at 5:07pm. This will be on a first come first serv basis, so far there will be 6 to sell in total, but might be 8 if they confirm. I will post out FOC to you if I can or worst case it might be £2.50 postage / carriage, but I will confirm this later on. I might be able to purchase another batch in the near future. I'll post up here once this first batch arrives, which will be in about 3 to 4 weeks time. I will only ask for full payment once the goods have been delivered to me, and that it's the correct item, once I'm happy with the delivered goods, I'll PM you my PayPal email and ask that you please pay via friend PayPal payment, other wise I'll be charged a fee. ********************************************************************* PS, Small wiper linkage arm fitment guide on page 10 ********************************************************************* POSTAGE DETAILS are at the top of page 9 ****************************** I can also offer the brass sleeve bushes. These are the self lubricating sleeve bushings that the 2 wiper spindle shafts rotate in. Sleeve bushes per each £0.50p X4 = £2.00 can send out with linkage order. I have some of the brash bushings in stock, they came in on Monday 23/06/2014 Or for the bushes to be sent out on their own 4 of, £3.00 Full details are on page 25 ******************************* I've now SOLD OUT of these small linkages, OUT OF STOCK. like I say at present this part is now obsolete. https://www.vwheritage.com/536955325...or-wipers-rhd/ If I can get hold of another 3 or 4 in the future, I'll let you know. (updated on 19/3/2019) Many thanks. Si

Sorry forgot to mention I'll move this over to the group buy thread. Many thanks. Si

Just a quick update. I've managed to order a batch of the small wiper arm linkages, the part n.o of which is 536-955-325 these are only for RHD Corrado's. A total of 8 have been ordered, 2 of which are spoken for. I've been told 100% 8 are on order, but they might be able to send 10. Any of you guys and girls that need one I will be happy to sell at my cost price, these will be £15.52 each. It will take about 3 to 4 weeks I was told until I receive these linkage arms, which were ordered today at 5:07pm. This will be on a first come first serv basis, so far there will be 6 to sell in total, but might be 8 if they confirm. I might be able to purchase another batch in the near future. I'll post up here once this first batch arrives, which will be in about 3 to 4 weeks time. Many thanks. Si

Hello Jon, please find attached photo's as mentioned. [ATTACH=CONFIG]76919[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76920[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76921[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76922[/ATTACH] Si

It might be wear with in your rev counter as already mentioned. Or on some vehicles it could be the coil as on some it sends a signal to the rev counter, and on others it uses the crank sensor to partly operate the rev counter. Si

Hello there, no I doubt the chain has slipped because if it had then your engine would have run lumpy / rough, plus like you have already said the grooves in the back of the cams would be out a lot more. Half a tooth out on the cam sprocket is normal for most warn / stretched timing chains / cam belts. Sounds like your chain tensioner is on the weak side, and the issue you have with the incomplete chain guide where it's broken away, this does greatly affect the tension on the top timing chain or any chain for that matter, that doesn't have the full tension pressure on it. A timing chain won't come off it's toothed sprocket, not unless over half it's running area has detached it's self off. What I mean here is that on most sprockets the timing chain, only interlocks with half of the teeth on it, so if only a quarter or less of the sprocket is covered by the chain, due to a badly warn chain guide or badly warn sprocket teeth, or if the chain had stretched that much that the tensioner just can't take out all the slack. Normally if any of this had happened the chain/chains would be rattling like mad, might even be hitting the inside of the chain covers. Plus the chain would be hanging off the lower teeth where it goes round one of the lower sprockets, this you would feel at the top of the chain near to the cam sprockets, or each cam sprocket would turn independently due to too much chain slack. The cam shafts should turn/rotate at the same rate, half a tooth out is just wear which can course one of the cams to seem lazy, i.e a slight delay until the second cam turns. But like the other guys have said it'll be slight wear in your timing chain, and the issue with the incomplete chain guide. Check your service history to see when the chains were last replaced. Most timing chains you replace every 80,000 to 100,000 miles. Really and truly though you're better off replacing the lot, well at least the two timing chains and all the chain guides complete with tensioner, and the sprocket gears if it needs them. If you just replace the top cam chain guide runner, what's to say the lower crank chain or guide isn't on the weak side as well. I know it's a pain in the butt, but if it was me I'd have the gearbox out and check the lot. Hope this helps. Si

Right just a quick up date, the company I had contacted originally couldn't do what they thought, so it came to a dead end. But I've located another company that specialize in fabricating wiper systems, these they make from scratch and are made for trains, kit cars, sports cars. They make them out of alloy, looks like each link arm is a alloy tube and has a female thread at each end, then they screw a rose joint bearing in at each end of the alloy tube link arm, complete with locking nuts, the rose joint is secured in place by a shouldered bolt. This would be a much better and stronger joint, well we wouldn't have the hassle of lose bushes like on the original set up. I'll give them a call and see what they could do, it might be just to fabricate the small link arm, or have a complete wiper system fabricated up, with the light weight alloy tubing and the rose joints. I've also sent an email to VW Classic Parts in Germany just as a back up, to see what the availability is, as I might be able to purchase a batch of the original small link arms. Si

Hello there, there's two VR6 distributors by the looks of it on Ebay. first one is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CORRADO-GOLF-PASSAT-VR6-2-8-2-9-DISTRIBUTOR-/190972929521?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c76dfa5f1&clk_rvr_id=563505413730 second one is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Golf-Corrado-Passat-MK3-VR6-2-8-2-9-12V-Ignition-Dizzy-Distributor-021905205AF-/151181949300?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2333257974 You can purchase them new but it's the complete distributor that you'll still have to get. Hope this helps. Si

Don't know why there's a face on the post I just put up :shrug: MK2 Golf 1986 onwards. Part N.o: 191 201 373 Fuel feed pipe from external fuel pump to accumulator. Part N.o: 191 201 218 Fuel feed pipe from accumulator to fuel filter. Hopefully this one is ok :lol: Si

Hello Jim, I've found the item on Ebay but the guy has already sold it. The Ebay item number was ( 11 12 35 41 16 90 ) I've just found another one off Ebay but it's off the MK2 Golf, so it might fit your Corrado but really depends on what size the fuel pump housing is. The Ebay item number is ( 26 13 49 66 61 52 ) The OEM part numbers for these fuel surge tanks are, I think. Part N.o: (535 201 043) for Corrado 1.8 16v eng code(KR) and 2.0 16v eng code(9A) Part N.o: (535 201 043) for later MK2 Golf 16v eng code(KR) Part N.o: (191 201 042A) for MK2 Golf 8v GTI and early 16V GTI / eng codes RD, GX = 8v and PL = 16v These have the fuel pipes that connect via banjo bolts to fuel filter, plus have the threaded end on the external high pressure fuel pump. Corrado 16v's 1989 onwards. Part N.o: (191 201 373) Fuel feed pipe from external fuel pump to accumulator. Part N.o: (505 201 218A) Fuel feed pipe from accumulator to fuel filter. MK2 Golf 1986 onwards. Part N.o: (191 201 373) Fuel feed pipe from external fuel pump to accumulator. Part N.o: (191 201 218) Fuel feed pipe from accumulator to fuel filter. Then on other fuel surge tanks like on the MK2 Golf 8v GTI they don't use the fuel pipes above, they just use some fuel hose as the external fuel pump doesn't have a threaded end. I've sent an email to VW Classic Parts in Germany just to see if they have got any, of the plastic fuel surge tanks for the 16v Corrado's. Looks like there are a few different types as some of the fuel pumps are different, sizes are 46.5mm / 52mm and 60mm, so you need the right size fuel pump to fit the correct surge tank unit. Hopefully I'll hear something back after Christmas. The only other thing to do is to have one made out of alloy, loads of fuel surge tanks from 1.5 ltrs to 4 ltrs are on Ebay, so us that have the 16 valvers might have to purchase a alloy surge tank, and fabricate it fever to hold the original 52mm or 60mm high pressure fuel pump, I've already thought about doing this. Or it's to do away with the under car external fuel pump, and fit a high pressure fuel pump complete with surge pot base into the main fuel tank. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, looks like the one in the photo was off Ebay, someone bought it in late Novemeber by the looks of it. Item number was: 301024866890 I've just found this on the internet a company called Body Kit Ltd. Their address is as follows: Body Kit Ltd 304 High Street, Orpington, Kent, BR6 0NF Tel: 02084 621704 Email: [email protected] This company have in stock what you are looking for, their item number is: RT00008090 This is for a Rieger front all in one grill & spoiler. Cost is £66.00 excluding VAT. Delivery it states 5 to 8 business working days. Can't find anything that is a cheap copy. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, really sorry to hear about this, oh my god a close call from what you've said and from the photo's. Thank god you're ok. Make sure you rest as much as poss and have a fab Christmas with your family and friends. Hope you carry on the Corrado spirit in a fresh Corrado VR6 in 2014. Your MK2 Golf is looking good, love the MK2 8v GTI and 1.8 16v GTI. Hope you DRILL THAT TURD in the other vehicle for Compensation for as much as poss, Broken leg. Whiplash. Bruising. headaches. Stress Loss of income. that b****y idiot shouldn't even be on the road if he / she can't even drive with in the rules of the law. Hope you get well as soon as poss Sir :salute:

Hello there, I did see one on Ebay late last week which was off a early 1.8 16v or 2.0 16v Corrado. If I can find it again I'll give you the item number. As far as I remember the 1.8 16v and 2.0 16v us the same fuel surge pot, it's the same as the MK2 Golf but this has the push on fuel hose end tip on the external fuel pump, where as the Corrado has the male thread connection type I think. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, on some vehicles once the battery is disconnected you can some times lose the basic ECU settings, if the battery has been disconnected for 20 to 30 mins or more, but this normally relates to vehicles that have the full multi point fuel injection system, where the injectors are linked directly in to the ECU as well as most of the other engine sensors, on these such vehicles you'd have to use a diagnostic scanner to remove any fault codes from the ECU memory chip, and drive the car for 30 to 40 mins so the ECU can collect fresh data from all engine sensors, and log all basic related settings back in it's memory. On some of the new vehicles this can happen if the battery is disconnected for long periods. But on your Corrado 2.0 16v as it's got the old style fuel metering head like on the later MK1 Golfs and MK2 Golf GTI, it's basically mechanical injection as it has the fuel distributor, fuel governor and air flow sensor all in the one metering head unit, so this set up doesn't really lose it's basic ECU settings unlike the more advanced ECU system like on most modern cars including the VR6 but as you've said it only took 5 mins to replace the battery you should be ok, from what you've said it does sound like one of the circuits has had a power surge or something for a split second, which can happen when you replace a battery. You should always remove the black negative (EARTH) lead first, and it should always be the last lead to fit back to the battery terminal. The red live (POWER) lead is always the second one to remove from the battery, and should be the first one to fit back to battery terminal before the earth lead. If you don't fit and remove the battery terminal leads as above then you can course a small power surge, or in some cases it can course a short, it can still happen if you do use the correct procedure but it's very rare. . Plus you've said that you have to apply full throttle to start your Corrado up from stone cold, this again is a classic symptom of over fueling. Full throttle down to assist starting is a symptom of a lack of fuel / too much fuel / very weak spark / very low compression. But like I say in your case as your Corrado starts fine when it's warm / hot, and is difficult to start from cold it'll be too much fuel meaning the fuel to air ratio, will be out so the engine will stall when cold or idle very lumpy until it's up to temp. It does sound as though the Coolant temp switch has died or is on the weak side, this can affect the car starting from cold or even when the engine is warm, it really depends on how the coolant temp switch has burnt out. They are normally white or blue in colour and have a 2 pin plug on the Corrado 2.0 16v The other thing it could be is the Lambda sensor, this detects any un-burnt fuel deposits with in exhaust waste fumes, but normally you'll have erratic idling and can have highish fuel economy complete with engine being under powered slightly, plus you might hear the odd popping sound from the exhaust tail pipe due to the extra fuel being used. These normally on the 2.0 16v have a black 4 pin plug with a separate earth wire. Most OEM Lambda's are Bosch ones, cost is around £58.00 to £78.00 off Ebay Some times the cold start injector can stick open which floods the cylinders with fuel, again coursing bad cold starting. This is normally linked into the coolant temp switch circuit, so once the engine warms up slightly the coolant temp switch, should then tell the ECU to turn off the cold start program. Secondhand these are around £25.00 to £38.00 off Ebay, and new from VW Main Dealer they could be close to £100.00 if not more, that's if they still stock them, if they don't then try VW Heritage. This is the part number for the 1.8 16v cold start valve ( 026 906 171A ) it might even be the same for the 2.0 16v. When testing the cold start valve / injector you can remove the 2 pin connector plug and see if it effects it's running on start up, or you can remove the cold start valve from out of the inlet manifold and see if it is switching off correctly, but if you do remove the cold start valve it could rip / damage the gasket. You can do a similar thing as above and remove the connector plug off the Lambda sensor or coolant temp switch, again just to see if it makes a difference or not to the engines cold start up. This is what some of the Forum members have done just to rule out each possible error from some of the sensors in question, that relate to this cold start up problem. When starting your Corrado 2.0 16v from cold it'll idle at around 1150 RPM for 3 to 5 mins in really cold winter weather, and around 1 to 2 mins in mild weather and even less in the summer weather. Once the cold start program has switched off, your engine should then idle at 850 RPM. I've got a spare coolant temp switch if you want it, it still works and has done around 75,000 miles. The part number is ( V026 906 161 ) this is a 2 pin and has a 10mm diameter thread with 1mm thread pitch complete with washer. I don't want any money for it you can have it F O C, if you want it and if that is the problem with your current one. Basically the same as this one on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261233673855?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D261233673855%26_rdc%3D1 Hope this helps. Si

Ok mate no worries, just thought I'd post it up just in case you wanted a clutch, to fit urgently on a temp basis. Hope it's a smooth job when you fit your new replacement clutch. Si :)

Hello there, I've got an old secondhand clutch with came out of my own Corrado, this clutch has done about 85,000 miles. I've got the clutch pressure plate and the clutch assembly disc, but don't have the release bearing as the old one was too warn to keep as a spare. This old clutch of mine has come out of a 2.0 16v Corrado, but it should be the same as a G60 clutch. The clutch is 228mm in diameter and has 28 splines, plus it's the original as from new, the make is I think Sachs. There's a bit of a wear lip on the clutch assembly disc, and the pressure plate lining is warn close to the rivets, so you've got around 6000 to 8000 miles or may be a bit more. I'll just charge you £5.00 for the clutch for both the parts I have. Please see photo's attached below. [ATTACH=CONFIG]76654[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76655[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76656[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76657[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76658[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76659[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76660[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76661[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76662[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76663[/ATTACH] If this looks ok and is what you're looking for, then I can send it on a 2 to 3 day carrier as it'll be cheaper, or I see you are from Swindon which is just the other side of Salisbury, so I could meet you half way or can drive to your place ? For the 2 to 3 day carrage I'll have to get a price on that, but it should be around the £10.00 to £12.00 mark due to the weight and size. Or for me to drive all the way to your place I'll just ask for £5.00 for a bit of petrol money. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, you normally always get all 3 items when you purchase a new clutch kit. Basically one of each as below. 1) release bearing. 2) clutch pressure plate. 3) clutch assembly. A good and quick way to test your clutches condition, is to have your car stationary i.e parked up on your drive. Simply have the handbrake on and start the engine up, then press the clutch in & select 4th or 5th gear, then raise the clutch pedal until you feel the biting ponit, once the pedal is right up the car's engine should stall if clutch is still ok, or engine won't stall and you'll be able to rev the engine with it still in gear, which means the clutch is on the way out. Once your gearbox is out this will be the perfect time to replace / check the following. 1) flywheel contact surface. 2) ring gear. 3) starter motor. 4) diff oil seals. 5) input shaft oil seal. 6) rear main oil seal. 7) if VR6 check timing chains, and chain housing covers. 8) if 4 cyl eng, check small core plug on back of block, you only see this once gearbox is dropped out. 9) sump gasket for oil weeping. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, if your G60 is fitted with ABS then you need to have the engine running. This is due to the valve / valves being closed inside the ABS unit, which is in the engine bay. When the engine is off the pressure in the brake lines will drop over time, and more so if vehicle has been left for a few days or a week. Once the engine starts up the ABS goes through a 10 to 30 second or so check, one of which is checking pressure in the braking system. Basically the valve / valves in the ABS unit open up slightly but not fully, so allowing the fluid to pass through to all area's in question. Plus on the master cylinder normally you only have 2 brake pipes connected into it, one is the feed to ABS unit, & the second is the return from ABS unit to master cylinder, this is so you have all round circulation but only when the engine is running. These valves only open up fully when the ABS system has to kick in to stop the wheels from skidding under very heavy braking, assisted by the ABS pump, which pumps fluid very rapidly to all four brake calipers, which in turn prevents the wheels like I say from locking up / skidding. Also the Brake pedal will feel hard when the engine is off as you won't have any vacuum assistance, you obtain this through the brake servo which has a diaphragm inside it, the master cylinder is bolted to the front of the brake servo, and passes through the inner center diaphragm and connects to brake pedal. Once engine has started up the brake pedal should feel alot softer as the vacuum will be obtained from the inlet manifold, from every suction stroke of the engines pistons. When you bleed the brakes NEVER NEVER press the padal flat to the floor, or you'll damage the seals inside the master cylinder, (seals will flip the other way, or could let brake fluid pass and become weakened) Only press the brake pedal down half way, just like with normal braking, this way the inner piston in the master cylinder will move to the same place every time, and so won't be pushed any fervor than it should be. All seals in the braking system i.e master cylinder, calipers, brake compensator axle valve, ABS unit, all have to be air tight and must be dry no brake fluid on them. Some people rebuild calipers and coat the rubber seals with brake fluid, THIS IS 100% WRONG. The brake fluid is only ever in contact with the inner side of the seal, it never touches the front or outer side of the seal, not unless the seal is old and warn out due to friction / heat damage. New caliper rubber seals or any seals in the braking system must be fitted in dry, with only the proper silicone grease being used. This grease is orange or red in colour. This grease helps to keep the piston or the handbrake inner gear lubricated, plus it helps to stop the seals from swelling coursed by high temps, friction or from brake fluid it's self. Have you ever looked at a caliper piston, when you pump the brake padal softly a few times, and the piston comes out a little it is always dry, you shouldn't see any brake fluid on it, if you do then the inner rubber seal is warn, meaning it's letting brake fluid past it, WHICH IS HIGHLY DANGEROUS. NEVER NEVER strip and rebuild brake calipers or master cylinder yourself, unless you 100% understand and KNOW what you are doing, because if anything fails on the braking system that you've touched, then you'll be solely responsible for any error. Remember that on the Corrado if ABS is fitted, when you're bleeding the brakes fluid will only just drip out of the bleed nipples or not at all, when the engine is switched off. When the engine is running you'll have both, the vacuum assistance and the hydraulic pressure with in the braking system. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, yeah you can use some WD40, just spray it under the dist / damp boot, just to make sure it penetrates down between the piston and inner caliper chamber wall. The piston should wind in like DOX says, by turning it 90 or 180 degrees at a time. Plus you can do what DELFINIS38 has said regarding the compensator valve, but if you've opened the bleed nipple it should then wind in as the pressure has been released, but only if the piston isn't seized up. If you still have no jay at moving the piston in, then it'll be the inner seals have hardened which can grip on the piston fairly tight, coursing it to move at a much slower rate or not at all. Or the outer sides of the piston that slide with in the caliper will be rusted, or the inner walls of the caliper chamber could be corroded. Plus the large spiral thread in the piston and on the retaining shaft could be rusty slightly, again not allowing the piston to wind in as it could be seized on the threads. I take it your caliper handbrake lever is free and is moving, plus is the cable still attached, if so is it tight or sized, because that is the other thing that can affect the piston in the rear calipers. Other then that you'll have to obtain new rear caliper / calipers, or strip them down and fit a new seal kit. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, according to the wiring diagram I think, this is what I can find for the wiring colours you've listed above, I'm not saying these are 100% the ones that are cut under your dash, but this is what those coloured wires can run to. (red / green) wire To head light washer / wiper washer / wiper switch, plus to washer pump. Or can be starter switch power for thermotime switch 1990 onwards with digifant ECU (brown / black) wire From washer wiper intermittent relay / switch. Also can be power / earth for the heated screen washer jets. Can be a earth for the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) Or an earth for the motronic ECU (pin 34) On 1989 vehicle with digifant ECU (pin 1) / thermotime switch (blue / green) wire I can't really see anything with this coloured wire, there are a few (blue / white) wires and (blue / yellow) There can be a (blue / green) wire but it's on the VW diesel engine, which goes to the glow plugs / glow plug relay. (brown / red) wire Can go to radio on some. On the none euro cars this can go to the shoulder automatic seat belt motor / warning light / relay. But if everything is working like you say, then might just be a extra small loom that someone has cut back, as it wasn't needed. The main wiring loom from the fusebox, runs behind the dash and up behind the heater blower area, where it then goes through a rubber grommet in the bulk head (fire wall) and comes out in the engine bay near the ABS pump. Plus a smaller loom can come from the fusebox which goes straight up and out through the bulk head on the drivers side. Looms as well run under the carpet drivers side and run to the rear lights and fuel pump / pumps. normally the (red / yellow) wire is for the fuel pump / pumps. Hope this helps. Si

No worries, glad you've found the part you need. I made a mistake on my original reply, the part numbers should be: Manual box lower cover: 02A 301 157C Auto box lower cover: 096 409 157B VR6 (ABV) - (AAA) Cheers Si

Hello there, I've just got in from being out on the town, so bare with me. This part number 096409157B I think this is the lower flywheel cover plate off a 4 speed auto gearbox (CFF) & (CLB) Auto boxes VR6 Golf, Passat, and might be in Corrado also. This is another part number 095409157 Which again is the lower flywheel cover plate off a 4 speed auto gearbox. This is the part number I think for the lower flywheel cover plate, on a VR6 Manual gearbox. Part number: 02A 301 157C This cover plate looks similar to the auto one, well it might even be the same but may just have a different part number, simply for the auto box ? Manual box lower cover: 096409157B Auto box lower cover: 02A 301 157C VR6 (ABV) - (AAA) The lower flywheel cover plate on the Corrado 4 cylinder engine, is I think part number: 038 103 648A For engine codes: (KR) - (9A) - (2E) - (ADY) might even fit the (PG) Then the large one above that behind the flywheel is. Early spec to >> 1991 - 1992: 068 103 645A Later spec after 1991 - 1992 >> 068 103 621E For engine codes: (KR) - (9A) - (2E) - (ADY) might even fit the (PG) Engine codes of MK2 Golf / Scirocco / Passat. (PL) - (DX) - (EX) - (KR) - (9A) and many more of the 4 cylinder engine lower flywheel covers should be inter changeable I think. Also there's a small cover plate at the back of the engine, that is bolted to the front face of the bell housing just above the O/S/F inner driveshaft flange. This cover / dirt plate simply fits into a clip at the bottom and then is held in place by a 6mm bolt with a 10mm hex head. This cover plate hides the back of the flywheel and stops any dirt or small stones, from making there way in to the bell housing where the flywheel / clutch are. The same with the lower cover plate, simply protects the flywheel / ring gear. Plus this is only for the Corrado with 4 cylinder engine. (KR) - (9A) - (2E) - (ADY) might even fit the (PG) Part numbers for this small cover plate are. Early spec cover plate to >> 1991 - 1992: 068 103 648 Later spec cover plate after 1991 - 1992 >> 068 103 645M gasket for both is: 037 103 649 6mm bolt with 10mm hex head: N 0102085 6mm spring washer: N 0122265 The manual gearbox 5 speed in the Corrado is normally the 02A box. 1.8 16v (KR) had box AGC (Late 1988 to Mid 1990) 1.8 16v (KR) had box AGC >>91 / 91>> CES (Mid 1990 to Late 1991) 1.8 G60 (PG) had box ATB (Late 1988 to 1990) 1.8 G60 (PG) had box AYL / AYN (Late 1990 to 1991) 1.8 G60 (PG) has box CBA (1991 to Mid 1992) 2.9 VR6 (ABV) had box AGK (Late 1991 to Mid 1992) 2.9 VR6 (ABV) had box GHN (Mid 1992 to mid 1995) 2.0 16v (9A) had box CES (Late 1991 to Mid 1992) 2.0 16v (9A) had box CGY (Mid 1992 to Mid 1995) The gearbox code numbers are stamped in the alloy casing, or are stamped on a alloy plate that is riveted / bolted to the casing. This is normally near the diff almost level with the speedo but on the other side of the casing, just above the N/S/F driveshaft flange close to where the rear gearbox mount is attached, or can be close to the slave cylinder, left side of it. Hope this helps. Right I'm off to bed :sleeping: :lol: Si

Nice one Clumpy, thank you Sir :salute: Yeah I'll give my local VW shop a buzz. Cheers. Si :thumbleft:

Cheers mate, I might get mine from the Main Dealer then if they're only £40.00 Knowing my luck my old ones will be a turd to get out, which could be fun :lol: Si