vw rule

Hello mate, you need to pull out the thick part of the cable (the outer casing) it has a metal tapered stop which fits in to the cable retaining arm, but only once when you've unhooked the inner cable out of the handbrake lever arm. In your photo the outer casing of the cable is still attached to the retaining arm, you just need to pull the retaining arm of, if you can't do this then you may have to reattach the retaining arm back on the caliper so you've got better leverage. Please see photo's attached [ATTACH]74830[/ATTACH][ATTACH]74831[/ATTACH] Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

If you've removed the retaining clip which it looks like you have in your photo, then it should really just pull out but they can some times be a swine to do so. You've got to work in to it lots and lots of WD40 and it will come out after some elbow grease so to speak. Hope you get it all sorted mate. Si

I think the MK2 Golf Rallye G60 was never entered in to a rally by VW them selves, because the car never passed the racing regulations. VW just max produced it and sold it as a high performance car for 12 to 18 months just before the G60 Corrado came out. I know there was I think a G60 track race cup series years and years ago ? but can't find anything on it. From what I can see VW did some development to the Golf Rallye very late in it's life just before they ended production, they fitted it with a 16v cylinder head, so from 158 BHP 8V to 207BHP 16v That must of been some kind of rocket 207 BHP and a top speed of 153 MPH = that's faster then the superb VR6 Here's the link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G60 Plus I've found this on the VW Vortex Forum they've done a similar thread a few years ago http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5019539-Track-shots-Autocross-shots-and-Unique-Rolling-shots!-Let-s-see-them!/page2 Right I've found this from 2012 http://www.vagtrophyracing.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=73&Itemid=114 Plus here I think is the 2013 Championship Table http://www.vagtrophyracing.co.uk/docs/V%20A%20G%20_Trophy_CHAMPIONSHIP%20STANDINGS%202013_Cadwell.pdf U-tube video link at Oulton Park from 2012 Hope this helps. Si :thumb right: ---------- Post added at 2:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:44 PM ---------- Also just found this it's the Superpro V.A.G FaceBook, which gets updated all the time by the looks of it https://www.facebook.com/SuperProVagTrophy Si

Hello James, so have you got a spark ? You've said that you have fuel as you've checked that by removing an injector and cranking off the cold start fuel pipe bolt. Your engine might be turning over but if the battery if half drained, that can some times affect it coursing it not to start. I had that on my Corrado about 5 years ago it was just dumping fuel in and flooding the cylinders, and the engine was cranking over fairly ok. Charged my battery up and she then started first time. On a lot of these Corrado's they don't seem to be able to hold there charge complete for very long, a lot do suffer with a unknown power drain which drain the battery slowly over time. There's the coolant temp switch which can play up if they've been fitted for years, when there warn out they course the injection system to just dump fuel in. There's also the metering head unit, this is where the fuel governor is and fuel distributor and air flow meter are, it's on top of the air filter box. You say you have fuel and that you can smell it so I would say the governor and fuel distributor should be ok, but your air flow meter may not be ? These air flow meters do wear out due to constant friction, in the top of the metering head there is a round disc / dome, this opens up once the engine is cranked / cranking, the disc / dome is attached to a arm which makes contact with the air flow meter by sliding across it's face, what happens over thousands of miles is the surface contacts wear out, but you can still start the car some times by just holding the disc / dome almost closed, as the contact there should be fairly good, this is because the most wear is in the centre of the air flow meter where that arm meets the contact face. The symptom of this is no fuel at all or very slight fuel and car won't start. I'm not saying this is the issue with your Corrado but I would check the operation of the metering head, just in case. Really mate just check the basics first before you dive in too deep, check for spark (check your distributor cap inside for damp and cracks plus rotor arm) check for spark from spark plugs, also see how strong the spark is at the ignition coil, simply remove the king HT lead from the distributor cap and earth out on engine bracket or valve cover or manifold. Pick up sensor which is attached to number 1 or 4 HT lead can fail coursing engine to misfire or not start at all, it acts as a pulse sensor as it's checking the coil is firing, which in turn tells the ECU (control unit) to fire fuel governor / distributor. It's a similar sensor to that on the VR6 which has a crank sensor, this detects rotation i.e by crank pulley teeth passing it and making it pulse. check for fuel (you can still have fuel to injectors but if the fuel pressure is weak, that can be an issue) check compressions (always do this with the throttle peddle down full and disconnect the fuel pump plug or relay) check earth leads are in good condition and all connected check valve timing (a tensioner can come lose or move at any time, meaning cam belt could be lose and timing is out) check that the alarm and immobilizer is disarming if one is fitted check battery is charged (as a weak battery can still turn an engine over, but still my not start) check for power to sensors ( on the 16 valvers mainly the coolant temp switch & metering head unit, plus the hall sendor ) Also have a quick check of your fuses just in case it's a simple fix. Can you always here the fuel pump / pumps running when your cranking over the engine ?? Hope this hopes. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Dan, have a look at this link on Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CORRADO-G60-REAR-TAIL-EXHAUST-PIPE-/261223022523?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cd21affbb The item number is 261223022523 looks like he only wants £30.00 for it and £9.00 for carriage. Give him a shout. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Steve nice one mate, received mine today superb. Thanks again :thumbleft: Si

Hello everyone I was on the industrial estate at Hurn Airport on Friday of last week, as I had to drop some bits off for a customer. Found this parked up (G reg = 1989 - 1990) 1.8 16v Corrado for sale, but no price, just had the for sale sign in the window. It's got 177,000 miles on the clock, gun metal grey in colour, black interior. Looked quite a nice car. Had a few stone chips on the front end like most of them get. The rear lights were the black smoked one's. I've had a look in the for sale ads on this forum, but can't see it anywhere. Next time I'm passing that industrial estate I'll get the phone number of the person selling that Corrado. Just wasn't sure if it was someone off here who owned it ?? Si

No worries dude hope you get it all sorted. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Steve, please can you confirm that you have received my payment via PayPal, as you have said only 17 people have paid not 18 Many thanks. Si

Jim take a look at this http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=corrado+1.8+exhaust&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=universal+exhaust+flexi+joints&_sacat=0 Loads of universal exhaust flexi joints for sale on Ebay, sorry Jim thinking about it the standard diameter of the exhaust is 2-1/4" (54 mm) not 1-1/4" that I said originally. But like I say you'll have to messure your old flexi joint that has snapped off from the down pipe, may even have to messure the down pipe as well where the flexi joint has gone as it could be a little larger there. The down pipe has two pipes at the top where it bolts to the exhaust manifold, and then goes in to one where it was attached to the flexi joint. You'll need the length, diameter, of your old flexi joint before you purchase a new one, as there are different sizes. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

I think it acts as a counter weight and as a anti vibration damper, normally they are fitted to the longest drive shaft of the two. On some cars they are bonded and on others they are clamped and bolted on. I think on some of the French cars like Renault & Peugeot they have a support bearing in the centre of the drive shaft, which is attached to a bracket which is bolted to the engine block to keep the drive shaft central and balanced. On the Corrado it's bonded to the O/S/F drive shaft, it's roughly about 3 inches in diameter with a 3mm to 5mm thick outer steel ring sleeve, the centre is made of rubber, the whole thing just slides over the drive shaft and is bonded to the centre or just off centre on the O/S/F drive shaft. What happens on the Corrado is the rubber in the centre of the damper splits, which in time courses the whole thing to break off from the drive shaft, the damper then is free to spin and move along the drive shaft which can sound like knocking / clunking, as it's able to hit against the sub frame or chassis leg when your at 70 MPH, or can happen when you throttle off and on when driving. ---------- Post added at 12:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 AM ---------- I know you've said that you have checked the sub frame mounts, but have you actually checked that the bolts are tight, because there can be a lot of pressure or load on some of these bolts, which when lose which doesn't have to be much, in some cases the bolt may only need a 1/4 of a turn or less. What I mean is a slightly lose bolt can still allow slight movement with in a component when it's under full load, but may still feel ok when being checked by hand. Remember that there is a lot of weight that the front sub frame is supporting ( Engine, Gearbox, Steering Rack ) Did you also feel for any play with in the inner CV joints when you were bolting them back up ? Si :thumbleft:

Hello mate sorry for the late reply been really busy at work and only just got back home now, will get back to you A S A P. Si

Really you’ll have to purchase the exhaust down pipe or which ever part has gone. I believe you might be able to purchase a universal replacement exhaust flexi joint, they normally just need to be welded on which is a cheaper option then going for a new replacement down pipe. But I don’t know how well these universal flexi joints fit, they should have a selection of sizes. Most motor vehicle factors sell these universal exhaust flexi joints. You will have to messure your exhaust I think most Corrado's are 1-1/4" or 54mm in diameter. Or see if you can get hold of a good secondhand exhaust ? Si

That could be a inner CV joint but it would have to be really warn out though to course that kind of noise, plus it normally is a clicking / knocking sound. What you have by the sounds of it is a engine / gearbox mount warn ? Anti roll bar bush clamp lose ? (I've had this, had to replace the bolt as the clamp had sriped the threads and fit a heli coil in to the chassis leg) Sub frame bolts lose or bushes warn badly ? Front lower ball joints warn badly ? Has the car been lower at all or is it standard ? It's just that you can get clunking noises from the lower wish bone arm bushes, but this is normally when cornering or very agressive driving. Also have you still got the balance weight on the O/S/F drive shaft, as these can oftern work lose as they are only bonded to the drive shaft. Mine worked lose so I cut it off as it was making a noise. Si

Top man Ray for getting her back on the road. You've done some work on your Corrado mate nice one. Yeah I know what you mean when parts have been replaced, as the car then feels crisp and tight like you say. I bet that 150 mile drive was good as the Corrado is an amazing GRAND TOURER :awesome: That reminds me I've got to do my rear axle bushes at some point :study: Yeah we should have a few days of sun, well it beats all that rain :lol: Si :thumbleft:

Hope this helps http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

The outer CV joints have a inner carrier which hold large ball bearings which rotate in reinforced recesses, so only allow the outer joints to move roughly around 45 Degrees when going from lock to lock on the steering, plus any movement with in the front suspension. The inner CV joints have similar carrier and ball bearings but this joint slides in and out, as well as a similar movement to the outer joint. Normally when the joints wear out the ball bearings become smaller due to wear or the reinforced recesses loose there hardened lining, making the joint rattle or knock when going from lock to lock when driving. In some cases it can crack the inner carrier due to excessive play. Knocking from lock to lock when driving is normally the sign of outer CV joint wear, you should be able to hear this if you drive in a circle clock wise or anti clock wise in a large car park, and constant rattle or knock when driving in a straight line is normally inner joint wear. You can regrease the CV joint but it really depends on how warn they are, don't use normal EP grease that you use for wheel bearings as this in CV joints will not work well, as it's a thinner grease and won't take up all the play with in the CV joint. What you need to use is the black Lithium grease this is really thick grease, this is the proper stuff for CV joints. Most people don't do this but I believe you are ment to remove the CV joint off the drive shaft, and completely clean it out and re-pack with fresh new grease. You can try to pack the CV joint with it still attached to the drive shaft, but you won't be able to fill the joint up correctly it'll just fall back in to the CV boot. Most garages do it this way as it's quicker but like I say you won't be able to fill the joint correctly with grease. Also remember to release the pressure from in side the CV boot or it could pop off at a later date. You do this once the joint is reattached to the drive shaft and the CV boot is fully fitted to the CV joint, simply slide a flat ended screw driver between the boot and joint and lift slightly, and you should hear a slight hiss as the trapped air is released, plus you may see one of the boots ridges pop back out. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

You could try that but I don't think it will stay on for long, as you'll only be attaching the flexi braded skin, because it's the flexi joint in side the flexi braded skin that has snapped off, so the exhaust will still be blowing. I think once they've rusted and broken off you really nead to replace it with a new flexi section. Or you could have it welded back on short term ? Si

Hello there, have a look at this thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=80659 Will sell for £15.00 just to get rid of it, but only if it's what your looking for. Cheers Si

Yeah sorry Stone I was saying in general regarding the cylinder head regarding the compression chamber, as most cylinder heads have a compression chamber in them, but yeah on your VR6 the head face is flat so like you say you've got the recess in the pistons for the compression chamber. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Stone, Yes that is correct the new valve guides should be installed from the cam shaft side of the cylinder head. I think what the manual means is the old warn guides should be pressed / knocked out through from the valve seat side and out through the cam shaft side so to speak. I think it might just be the way they've worded it in the manual ?? Like what SCIENCE has said above. I believe you can only replace the valve guides two or three times on the VR6 or on most aluminum cylinder heads, as there is a greater risk of the head cracking under the 1 tone of pressure used to install the new valve guides, plus normally the valve seats have to be replaced or machined so as to keep the valves sitting central, again the valve seats can only be machined so many times, what I mean is the seat can only be set back in lower to that of the height of the compression chamber. Basically any machine work done to a cylinder head will weaken it as you are reducing it original dimensions making it thinner. Same issue really when it comes to having the cylinder head skimmed it can only be done a few times, as it increases the compression this is due to the depth of the compression chamber being reduced each time the head is skimmed, it's the head of the valves that can also protrude so most people have a slightly thicker head gasket fitted to compensate for this, but mainly it's down to the fact that the overall thickness of the head face can be come too thin and the issue with the compression chamber. But yeah the answer to your question is yes the cylinder head will have to be replaced if it's already been machined to it's max limit. Bottom line is really when you've had new valve guides fitted, should then have the head skimmed and valve seats replaced or machined and have valves lapped in to new valve seat surface. I've heard some people have said you can't or shouldn't machine VR6 valve seats ?? £300.00 to £450.00 is what it may cost to have the guides replaced and have the head machined Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

The plates that the bolts go through these are to make sure there is even pressure distributed over the inner CV joint when tighted up, plus they act like a washer as well as the head on those bolts is small. I've used lock tight also known as thread lock and never had a problem. Hope you get it all sorted. Si

I adjusted my camber with a small spirit level attached to a straight piece of wood, the wood is 500mm (1/2 a meter) long and about 10mm thick and 20mm wide. I've had it double checked at my mates garage with his proper gauges, and it's 100% bang on so the spirit level and piece of wood works perfectly. But make sure you check and adjust tracking and camber / caster on flat level ground, or you may get false readings. Si

Sorry for delay I've just been so busy. Payment has been sent via paypal :salute: Many thanks Steve and Rory :thumbleft:

Hello Rob, the over run I think is when you take your foot off the throttle at speed, say at high rev's 2500 or 3000rpm or above, this is when driving the car or just revving the engine on the drive, and you come off the throttle pedal very quickly, which is similar to when the car first starts up from cold / hot, I know it won't reach high rev's but will go to 1000 or 1500rpm once the engine catches and starts. This is the reason why you'll first see smoke from the exhaust from cold or you can still see it on the over run. Same thing when you apply the throttle pedal down hard you'll see some smoke if the engine is using oil or water or if it's over fuelling. If you look at a rally car or any other high performance car you will normally see flames, coming out of the exhaust tail pipe this is due to the extra fuel being injected but doesn't quite get burnt in the cylinders, it ignites in the hot exhaust, hence flames out of the exhaust pipe. You won't see any flames from your VR6 Rob with the cat fitted but might do with it removed, but it's normally when a engine has been highly tuned up that you'll see flames from the exhaust tail pipe. Very aggressive over run can damage your cat as it tries to push the honey cone out or my smash it to bits, but this is if you were driving your car at 5000rpm or above, all the high performance cars have upgraded cats to suit the high engine out put and extra fuel. Most normal road cars never really hit 5000 or 6000rpm if they do it’s really once in a blue moon. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft: ---------- Post added at 6:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:06 PM ---------- I think Rob your main problem is a lot of soot build up in your exhaust system, this is due to oil or over fuelling. oil being used / burnt in the engine will show it's self normally as blue / grey smoke from the exhaust. Black smoke is normally related to too much fuel delivery in the engine. Rob if you are just doing 3 miles a week in your Corrado then yeah I would say it is related to your smoking issue. A car engine doesn't really get up to normal working temp until you've done about 5 to 6 miles, say about 10 to 15 mins in time. So your exhaust may not be getting a long enough time to stay hot and the same for the engine, your engine by the sounds of it will only just be coming of it's cold start programme, if you're just doing 3 to 5 miles. I would give it a decent run say 20 miles or above, and drive it up to 70 MPH, for most of the 20 miles to see if it clears up, if it’s still the same or hasn't got any better (if the smoke hasn't reduced or cleared a little) Then yes I would say you've got an internal engine fault (oil or fuel related) Hope this helps Rob Si :salute: ---------- Post added at 6:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:33 PM ---------- Right I'm off home now, still at work :lol: Thank god it's Friday, the weekend is here :dance: Hope you get her running spot on mate, Right laters :salute: