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Hello there, is your Corrado a UK one ?? Most UK Corrado's only have the one rear fog light (O/S/R) "(yet I have wiring for both fogs on the same circuit)" Do both rear fogs work then, what I mean is do you have power to both the plug connectors ?? If you've not got a multimeter then just stick a bulb in your extra rear fog light, just to test it. It does sound as though the wiring has been played with ?? Wiring to the reverse lights should be, BATTERY to FUSEBOX to REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH to BULBS Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, yeah it could be your coil pack that's on the way out. I think a few of the other guys on this forum have used an old bleach sprayer, and filled it up with water and set the end nozzle to fine spray, and sprayed a fine mist just above the coil pack to see if it's arcing out side it's outer casing. Unless you can test it on the VAG.COM if you've got that on a laptop i.e diagnostic scanner. Or it could be fuel related i.e the thermal transmitter (coolant temp switch) ?? When these go the engine can misfire and run rough as it's over fuelling. Hope this helps. Si

Oh yeah, forgot about those. Nice one. Si :thumbleft:

No worries, glad to be of help. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Em, it could be the bonding has gone that holds the rear light lense / lenses on the rear main light units, you might be able to glue them ? If you look very close at the top edge, of the lenses where they're bonded you might see a split / crack, where it's coming away, hense water getting in to the rear lights. I've had this on a mates Peugeot 206 which was doing the same thing when it rained, so glued it and it sorted his lights out. Plus drilled a small whole in the bottom of the light unit, so if it did happen again the water would just drain out. But before you do glue the lense your best bet is to take the lights right out, and dry them off completely with a hair dryer in side and out. Or try this repair tape for a short fix. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OFFER-SUMMIT-LIGHT-LENS-REPAIR-TAPE-RED-CAR-CARAVAN-REAR-LIGHT-BRAKE-LAMP-/140981445125 Or you could try duct tape again for a short fix. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50mm-x-50m-Duck-Duct-Gaffa-Gaffer-Cloth-Tape-9-Colours-/270778991658?pt=UK_Packaging_Materials&var=&hash=item3f0baf842a If you have no joy then you'll have to get hold of replacement lights. Hope this helps. Si

Hello Rob, I replaced my ignition switch around 6 years ago now. What I used was a small 1/4"(6mm) combination spanner, and super glued a small Philips screw driver end bit, in to the ring spanner end. LIKE THIS [ATTACH=CONFIG]76214[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76215[/ATTACH] For me it worked a treat as I was able to get to the small retaining screw, from the top whilst sat in the drivers seat, it took me around 3 mins to get the screw out, as your only able to turn the screw small movements at a time, and about the same time for it to be screwed back in. The steering column was adjusted to it's lowest level, and both the top / bottom steering column cowlings were removed. Hope this helps. Si

Ok mate no worries, good to hear your head gasket is ok. Your chain guides do wear over time, the chain creates ridges in the nylon liners, plus the nylon liners can break lose from the guide bracket, as the nylon is only bonded or riveted on. Plus the timing chains stretch over time, which makes them slack even if the tensioner is doing it's job. A well warn chain / chains will rattle. The sprocket gears wear as well, the ends of the teeth should be slightly tapered and flat, but once warn badly they become pointed and so can slip out of the chain links, or the chain can become very slack coursed by the warn sprockets. Check condition of the chain tensioner as well, some are oil fed so rely on the oil pressure to keep correct tension, and others are spring loaded, which can be adjusted by hand i.e spanner / ratchet. I would have a very close look of the above just in case one of them is warn, it's better to do it now if it's needed. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Most of the Corrado's I've seen have had a sunroof, so I'd say yes your Corrado is a rare one with the solid roof. I don't know exactly how many were made with the solid roof, but it's less then the sunroof type. Most early ones not all , didn't have the sunroof. Plus most had the manual gearbox, auto ones are rare. I think there were 97,521 Corrado's built / sold world wide, most of which are left hand drive, a small hand full of countries had the right hand drive vehicles including us. But I think the rarest Corrado is the VR6 Storm, these are rare as rocking horse pooh, if anyone has a Storm and it's totally standard, do not sell it as these will go up big time in value. And the same with the MK1 Golf GTI and MK2 Golf G60 really rare now, and so is the MK1 & 2, Scirocco Storm and the MK2 Scirocco GTS 16v really really rare. DON'T SELL THEM, lol Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, yes it could be leaking from the top chain cover if you say the end part of the head gasket is missing, the only way really to do it properly is to remove the cylinder head and replace the whole head gasket. But I have done it before with out having to do that, but you have to make sure a few things are done right first though. The small spill of oil you've got on the front edge of the lower chain cover close to the thermostat housing, that could be where it's run down off the inside of the upper chain cover. You've said you couldn't see any signs of a gasket on there, but were there any signs of sealant used or not ?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK4-VW-GTI-VR6-2-8L-24-valve-BDF-UPPER-TIMING-CHAIN-COVER-SEAL-FACTORY-OEM-/121166506283?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3616292b&vxp=mtr It just might be where that cover / covers have been taken off in the past and resealed, and the old sealant has just fallen out due to being really old ?? 1) if the end part of the head gasket is missing already, then make sure that it has been cut flush and evenly with the end of the head. Because if it hasn't it can weaken it, if it's just been torn / ripped off. I think there are 20 head bolts used on the VR6 head, so if the head gasket has been ripped off unevenly it could course sealing problems, as oil can weep from under the gasket close to one of the end bolt holes, the two that are in line with the top chain cover. http://www.thegasketshop.net/index.php/vw-corrado-golf-passat-sharan-vr6-2-8-2-9-head-gasket.html 2) Make sure all surface areas are clean and smooth / flat. 3) I would only use Loctite Blue, this type of sealant is very good for water and oil, and has an amazing strong bond, you can use silicone sealant but I find this isn't as good as Loctite Blue, as it takes longer to set. LOCTITE BLUE SEALANT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-BLUE-SILICONE-GASKET-MAKER-AND-SEALANT-40ml-/370786693286?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item56549bf0a6 Just make sure you apply evenly to all sealing faces, and if you've not got a new o-ring to attach in the thermostat housing, then you can use the old one as long as it's not rock hard or splitting. Simply fill the o-ring ridge up with sealant (BUT EVENLY) gently push in the o-ring, and cover with sealant. Plus try to apply the sealant slightly thicker on the outer facing edges, so when you reattach the chain cover it should ooze sealant out more on the outside, to complete the bond as you don't want it to ooze on the inside, and drop down in to the sump. If the sealant is too thick it will ooze out too much and could still leak, and again if it's too thin it'll leak as well especially it there's no gasket. 4) Check the two sensor seals are both ok as oil can leak from them as well. 5) Make sure all bolt threads are ok and don't have a alloy on them, as this will mean you've got weak threads in the cylinder head. 6) Check antifreeze strength, if it's weak then add more or replace. Plus check all coolant hoses for any cracks and hardness, any hose that is rock hard or feels crunchy when you squeeze it, then replace them as this would be the best time to do so when the coolant is already out. Same with the radiator and the heater matrix, just check for any signs of leaking. Radiators normally go around the plastic tank area at the bottom, and the heater matrix you'll have a strong smell in the car, or water / antifreeze stains on the carpet. 7) Replace the top valve cover gasket even if it's fairly new, as it's been compressed so could be weak. I find the VW Main dealer gaskets are much better than the after market ones. The chain covers don't normally crack, not unless the timing chain has been hitting against it, due to a weak / broken chain guide / tensioner. Or if they've got heat damage, in which case the cover will only leak once the engine is up to temp, then the leak will show it's self. You can check the cover for any cracks, but it's best to wash / clean it first. 8) You can tighten the chain cover bolts up with a 1/4" ratchet that way you shouldn't be able to over tighten them, or on the safe side use a torque wrench. 9) Once everything is bolted up tight just have a look and make sure, that you've got a even ooze of sealant all around the fitting in question, because if not it could still leak. 10) You should really repalce the inlet manifold gasket for new as well, but you can use some of the LOCTITE BLUE but apply it very thinly and evenly, as you don't want any sealant bits in the inlet. Hope this helps. Si

These are just amazing. If you've got an amazing skill or seen some body with one, then post it up here. Enjoy. Just the best http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlUS5aB-bf0 Just the best Just the best http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VORauv3dzXo Just the best http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O7zw6FcLlg Extreme Sport No way No way http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ajw8QfCCLfw No way Don't mess with Spiderman (amazing) Oh my god, no way (Part 1) Oh my god, no way (Part 2) Si

Lush lush lush oh yeah and lush, nice car, love the silver colour. That must be a rocket, VR6 2.9 and supercharged, Smokey & The Bandit here we come :cowboy: I really can't see old Buford T. Justice catching that :lol: Snowman keep the Beavers grinning and the wheels spinning :notworthy: Si :thumb right:

Hello there, 100% as what MIC_VR has said. I believe all the Corrado engine versions = G60, VR6, 16v's, 8v's have hydraulic tappets so zero maintenance. Check your oil level just in case it is on the low side. You could carry out an engine oil / filter change if it hasn't been done for 5,000 miles are more, plus you can get a engine flush to put in the engine and run the engine for about 10 mins, then drop the oil out, like I say if it hasn't been done for a while. Some people use the engine flush and some don't, it is one way to help keep all the sludge and carbon building up too much, which of course can give you a loud hydraulic tappet, when the oil galleries are coated up, or the tappet is slightly blocked. 10W/40 engine oil is normally used in most Corrado's, and slightly thinner for the G60 as it's supercharged You also can get hold of a oil additive to add to your clean new engine oil, it's slightly thicker when cold then your normal oil, but it thins down once it's heated up and so it helps to quiet down loud tappets, but don't really think you should use it on the VR6 or G60 as they've got slightly smaller oil galleries, compared to the other engines, well the G60 has plus it's got small tolerances with in the supercharger, so it gets very hot so thinner oil is better for the G60. But more then likely it'll be the inner spring / plunger gone inside the hydraulic tappet, which when warn do sound very loud when cold and quiet down once up to temp. Hope this helps. Si

Hi Chris, payment has just been made via PayPal, plus there's a message attached. Just PM you also mate. Many thanks. Si :thumbleft:

Thanks Chris, payment is on it's way, will confirm shortly. Thanks. Si

Hello there, here's the repair thread link below, should tell you everything you need to reair yours. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/late_heater_control_repair.html Hope this helps. Si

I'll have the double fog light switch please mate, if no one else has put there name to it. Just sent you a PM. Thanks. Si

Oh I see, nice one mate. Thanks. Si

Enjoy if you dare :vamp: Si :evilbat:

I've just bought a new set of heated washer jets as mine had corroded wires. Euro Car Parts (Part n.o = 868440110 £15.54 Heated washer jets - in stock. (Part n.o = 868440020 £1.50 None heated washer jets - in stock. Car parts 4 less (Same part number and price as above) looks like both these companies have the same product listings for the Corrado, or share the same supplier. Or you can repair the heated ones, link attached below. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=74917 Hope this helps. Si

I would change your brake fluid first and go from there, the fluid should be changed every 2 to 3 years, as it absorbs moisture. Or could be a faulty hub speed sensor, some times the plastic housing of the sensor can become brittle, coursing small cracks and so letting damp in to it, which can bring the ABS warning switch / light on, then once the hub has warmed up from the heat generated from the brakes, it can switch the ABS warning light off. The issue regarding the moisture with in the brake fluid, is basically brake fluid is just hydraulic oil, and the ABS pump can't really compress i.e pump the fluid around the system efficiently, if it's not of the right consistency because it can course low pressure in the ABS pump, when this happens it can bring on the ABS warning switch / light. I think there's a sensor in the ABS pump unit. The ABS warning light acts as a switch as well, so if the ABS pump pressure is too low then the warning light comes on, and so the complete system can shut down. The ABS warning light should come on once the engine starts, and will stay on for 8 to 30 seconds as it's checking for any faults including pressure. The light can just stay illuminated for the 8 seconds or so, or it can flicker slightly for the 8 seconds or so, until the system has fully checked it's self. If you've got the VWCOM on your laptop, you can check for any fault codes, if there are any stored of course. Plus when the ABS pumps are warn they can bring on the ABS warning light for much longer. But Like I say I would first of all change your brake fluid for new, (DOT 4) Brake fluid is the normal grade to use on all / most road cars. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, this is the one for the front edge of the rear exhaust silence just in case you need it as well. http://www.vw-classicparts.de/shop/ Is this the one your after and need ASAP. I've just sent you a PM. Si

No worries. Si

This one fits to the bulk head / fire wall, behind engine. http://www.vw-classicparts.de/shop/ Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-2-0-1-8-16v-G60-VR6-Heat-Shield-OEM-Exhaust-Manifold-536-803-312-/271213399208?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item3f25940ca8 Is this the one you're after ?? Si

I believe they are about the same, most of the time it's just the differences with the design of the front illumination, of the ABS symbol. But normally there's a circuit diagram on the top inner white plastic casing, which should show you live, earth, signal trigger wire and so on. If you carefully pull your ABS warning light out from the dash, you'll see or should see this diagram on the ABS sensor switch, plus you should see it'll have 8 pins and only 7 are used, I think. Some early ones I've seen have had 5 to 6 pins used out of the full 8, but these are rare. This I think is the later UK / Euro type ABS warning switch http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-ABS-LIGHT-G60-VR6-16V-8V-535-919-235-AA-535919235AA-/320908152866?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab79dd022 ABS Dash Data Sheet for early USA spec vehicle http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=737724 Hope this helps. Si

Just found this from the search menu. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=4948&highlight=vagcom Have a look at pages 1, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16. Pages 1 through to 11 are of fault codes and what types of VWCOM with work with what, pages 15 and 16 are of the ABS system. There's good detail in that thread link above regarding VR6, G60, and 16s with the VAGCOM, what works with what, and details of the 16pin and 2x2 diagnostic plugs. The front and rear ABS speed sensors have been obsolete now for a few years with the VW Dealers, but you can purchase them from good after market suppliers, like AVS http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_brakes.php The ABS speed sensors these guys supply are made by MEYLE for front and rear. Again some here on EBAY http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Front-ABS-Speed-Sensors-Left-Right-O-S-N-S-1J0927803-1J0927804-mk3-mk4-golf-/321033825600?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item4abf1b6d40 Or you can spend a bit more money and go for one that is close to the original. FRONT RIGHT. Made by REDLINE http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-53I-Coupe-Intermotor-Front-Right-ABS-Sensor-Genuine-Replacement-Part-/301004547499?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item461544e5ab FRONT LEFT. Made by REDLINE http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-53I-Coupe-Intermotor-Front-Left-ABS-Sensor-Genuine-Replacement-Part-/301004551046?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item461544f386 Regarding the front hub ABS speed ring I think the guys above are correct, you normally can only purchase this complete with the front hub unit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171116116221?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fdsa.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D171116116221%26_rdc%3D1 The front face of the ABS sensor has to be able to sense the ABS ring passing it, if it's covered in dirt or brake dust or small metal filings, then this can affect it's performance. This is because the ABS sensor has a copper coil winding with in it, which creates a megnectic pull so when the metal ABS ring passes the ABS sensor face, it pulsates on and off. Like this TOOTH = ON, GAP = OFF hence on, off, on, off and so on. This is very similar to how other sensors work like the Crank sensor and the Cam Shaft Position sensor, they also have a ring with teeth or in the Cam Shaft sensor type a Continuous contact surface, with just the one or two gaps that make it pulsate. Hope this helps. Si