vw rule

Hello there, it's not to bad to change the ignition switch, 1) disconnect the negative battery lead. 2) remove the steering wheel. 3) remove the lower dash trim under the steering column. 4) tilt the steering column down via the lever. 5) remove the black plastic upper and lower steering column covers. 6) unplug the ignition switch connector plug (on the back of switch) 7) unscrew small philips screw, small screw fixing base of ignition switch in to the steering column housing. (you can't get at this screw with a normal sized philips screw driver) I got a 7mm or 8mm combination spanner and supper glued a philips screw driver bit end, in to the ring part of the spanner so I was able to remove the small philips screw. Or you can remove the steering column via the universal joint just under the brake pedal in side the car, this way you should be able to get at the small screw a lot easier, but it may make the job a bit longer as you'll be removing the steering column. Hope this helps. Si

Take a look at this but for short term fix only ? The guy in the video says it's a long term fix. Si

Hello there, could be a bad earth or a slight fault with the alternator, if you have a slight misfire it normally won't affect the charging system. Check tension of alternator belt. Check charging rate from alternator at idle with all electrics off, should be around 13.5 volts to 14 volts. Then check with most electrics on again at idle, should see around 12.8 volts to 13 volts, if you rev the engine to 2000 RPM and hold there, you should see around 13.5 volts. With a full electrical load on i.e lights, heater blower, rear demister screen, at idle you normally see 13 volts and if you rev the engine as above you should get a reading of 13.5 Any lower then 13 volts at fast idle and your alternator may need to be repaired / replaced. Corrado 1.8 & 2.0 16v have V= belts (both alternator & power steering belt) (V=belts you adjust manually, should be able to twist the belt by 45 to 90 degree, or 5mm to 7mm movement if checking tension. Corrado 8V, G60 & VR6 have Ribbed alternator belt (Normally have auto tensioner so high tension is on these ribbed belts) (if manual tensioner then should have around 2mm to 3mm movement anymore and the belt will be loose and will slip) Hope this helps. Si

Hello I hope you've sorted your glove compartment light issue. I take it your rear wiper works ok, it's just that fuse number 4 is for the rear wiper, and can be for the glove compartment light as well. These fuses can some times have bad connections. Si

Hello there, my head light switch only lights up green when sides are on, then goes off once the dip beam is on so as far as I know this is normal on the Corrado. When you say it takes a while for the sides lights to light up when turned on, is this when the engine is running or when your Corrado is parked up with engine off ? The side lights should be wired up in series which means, if you have a blown fuse for the lights it will course them not to work on one side of the car, really depends on which fuse had blown if any so to speak. But I've had bad connections & bad earths in the past with very similar symptoms as what you're having with your side lamps. Yes the dip beam and main beam are individual, so once the dip beam is on the mains should be off, until of course the left steering wheel stork is applied to switch the mains on and the dips should go off then. This could be a fault with the column stork or as you have already said the relay could be sticking. I would check the relays first and then go from there. could also be a earth problem. Don't forget that on the Corrado you can have return earths that also change to power when the circuit is switched, when it passes through a relay or control unit. Fuse 1 = (Dip Beam Left) Yellow / Black wire Fuse 2 = (Dip Beam Right) Yellow wire Fuse 11 = (Main Beam Left) White / Black wire Fuse 12 = (Main Beam Right) White wire The head light relay I think is relay 53 the one on the left, as there are two with 53 on them next to each other, the one on the right with 53 is for the horns I think. There might be a relay as well with 108 or 110 on it this might be for the head lights as well ? What you can do is switch the ignition on flick the head lights on & off, and listen to which relays are clicking you may have to put your fingers on them to 100% find the correct relay, this is what I do when I don't have a wiring diagram. I think there is a resistor for the head lights, I believe it is attached to the N/S/F wing just in front of the battery just behind the head lamp. Your head lights may well still work if you disconnect the resistor, as the resistor I think is to stop the head light bulbs from blowing, you know to stop the voltage / resistance from becoming to high so to speak. Your ABS issue regarding the bulb, most 12v bulbs are able to take a few more volts, as the electrical system as you know on a car, can go from 11.5 volts up to 14.5 volts or above if the charging regulator is faulty. So the 14v bulb should be ok if the voltage goes up to 16v for a split second or to. The ABS sensor switch in the dash is about £85.00 to £100.00 new from VW, so yeah you should be able to purchase a replacement 14v bulb hopefully, but make sure it is a proper automotive bulb, as these can take the fluctuation in voltage as the alternator is charging. Plus don't forget that the ABS sensor switch is checking the ABS system pressure so there is bound to be a small fluctuation in voltage I think, this is when the car is started up and the ABS light flickers or stays on for 6 to 10 seconds. There is one thing that can course the voltage to shoot up a little and that is a short circuit somewhere in the system, which can blow fuses or in some cases a bulb. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Extra link below: (how to read wiring diagrams and there symbols) https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/pages/viewpage.action?pageId=13500486 Si

Hi Emma, you could always keep your boyfriends car, quick quick drive it away now, he's coming :lol: I think this is where I get :splat: :lol: No worries mate, hope your Mechanic finds the fault and your VR6 is back on the road full time :thumbleft: Si

Hello Peter, welcome mate, good to see another Corrado owner :thumbleft: Jim that is a classic :lol: Mate do you need a loo paper :lol: Si

Hello Rob, Yeah that does sound like the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pump primes the system and keeps it pressurised to the fuel injector rail, and then the fuel pressure regulator keeps the pressure in the fuel return line, from the injector rail back to fuel tank. It does sound like you are 100% losing fuel pressure with in the system if vehicle is left for only 30 mins. Those fuel saving devices can affect the fuel system but it depends on where they're fitted and what type they are ? But yeah fuel delivery. Like you say you really need to check the fuel pressure. Si :thumbleft:

These components below can have similar symptoms: Throttle body clogged up with sludge and muck. This can affect the butterfly's operation or vacuum hose ports can be blocked up in the valve body. Or butterfly flap shaft warn with in valve body. Throttle position sensor warn or playing up. Some of these sensors track the full movement of the throttle, where as others I think only check for throttle off and full throttle. Lambda sensor (O2 Sensor) warn out. The ECU will dump in extra fuel due to not being able to measure for fuel deposits with in exhaust fumes. Symptom is slight misfire or engine seems under powered. Normally have engine warning light come on with most cars when these go or play up. Crank sensor Kev Bacon one of the members on here has mentioned the crank sensor before, I think on his VR6 it played up or something. The crank sensor has to be able to sense movement going past it's face, so on the crank pulley there is a steel toothed ring which the crank sensor pulsates off, but there is a magnetic charge build up with in the sensor so it's able to sense when the teeth are passing it. This can result in small metal filings being attached to the crank sensor's face which can affect it's operation. I think Kev had that kind of issue with his ? Fuel tank lift pump as already mentioned in thread. Have you got a ECU diagnostic scanner to read for any fault codes with in system. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Ok mate no worries, hope you get it all sorted. Si

Hello there, Yeah fuel pump relay is in socket 12 (relay normally has n.o 167 on back of it) This relay has red wire (power) to alarm / immobilizer which cuts power to this relay once armed. Also has red / yellow wire for (power) (fuse 18 = 20amp) to fuel pump and injectors, plus oxygen sensor (O2 sensor) Yellow / blue wire is (earth) from this fuel pump relay to ECU, but shares earth with fuel pump and pump after run control unit which is grey / black wire, then comes out of after run control unit as a black wire and goes through heated crank case breather, Then returns back to fuel pump relay and ECU relay on earth track. Black wire then connects to alarm / immobilizer as (earth) (note factory alarm / immobilizer) There should be two large brown wires as (earth) which will be attached to car body off fuse box wiring loom, in fact there are three as one of them goes up to the instrument cluster, I think. ECU relay I think is in socket 3 (relay normally has n.o 109 on back of it) Black / Brown wire is (earth) and the red / blue wire is (power) from this relay to ECU Shared earths on this ECU relay are very similar to that of the fuel relay as they share the same circuit. Please have a look at this thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=81935&p=978986#post978986 Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Hello mate, Right ok so if you’ve got a spark from the King HT lead, then the ignition module (ignition amplifier) and the coil must be ok. You’ve tested the distributor hall sensor and had power there, plus saw the voltage change when the engine was cranked over on the green wire. I think if the hall sensor wasn't working you wouldn't be getting a spark from the coil. 6 volts yeah that seams ok for the hall sensor (like I say the coil is working) So the only things now that can stop the spark from the four main HT leads, is faulty HT leads or plugs or a bad earth ? Warn HT leads normally play up when the engine is running, and when you apply the throttle you may feel or hear a misfire, this is because they play up under load and don’t like damp weather when they’re warn. But in rare cases the HT leads can be totally burnt out. Similar thing happens to the spark plugs over time, they can be come warn and so produce a weak spark (mainly due to the electrode gap becoming too big) or the centre core of the plug in side is warn or burnt out. Regarding the earth, the spark plugs are screwed in to the cylinder head, and so are earthed through the engine it’s self, so if you’ve got a bad / weak earth then the spark plugs may not be working. But you said you have a good spark from the King HT lead, when you earth it to the engine, so for that reason the engine earth should really be ok. You might just have dodgy HT leads or plugs if you’re only getting a spark from cylinder 2 and 3 and nothing from 1 and 4 have you got another set of spark plugs that you can try, also you can test for continuity through the HT leads using a multimeter, this tests to make sure there are no breaks in the centre core of the HT leads. I think also you can do a resistance test on the leads as well. Have a feel of the main wiring loom from the fuse box where it comes through the bulk head, and have a wiggle of the HT leads you could have a dodgy wire somewhere. What I mean is most components work but if the wiring to them has a fault, that could course the component to stop working intermittently, but if the car is moved or wiring is then the car could just suddenly start up, and then when the car is left over a few days it may not start up again ? This can happen with faulty earths to engine. (wires / cables may look ok but if a continuity test is carried out it can show intermittent faults) Hope this helps Si

You should really set the engine to TDC before you remove any distributor, but as it's the 16v engine you don't have to as the distributor is in the cylinder head, the distributor drive gear is driven by the cam shaft. The cam shaft has a off set slot in the end of it which the distributor drive gear fits in to, so you can't really refit the dizzy incorrectly. Make sure though that you mark the distributor with tippex or use a small chisel, simply mark on the top of the distributor where it meets against the cylinder head, or observe the bolt markings on the dizzy, as when their removed they leave a round clean circle mark, which can be used to help aline the dizzy. Take a look at this link I know it's not the same engine or vehcile as your's, but it will help / show you regarding the dizzy http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Volkswagen-Air-Cooled-1949-1969-Repair-Guide/Engine-Electrical/Distributor/_/P-0900c15280267517 If your not 100% sure then please don't remove your distributor, it might be best if you can do the hall sendor test with the dizzy still fitted. Yeah it does need to be connected the three pin plug for the hall sender, or you won't get a reading on your multimeter, if you can't get your test leads on the contacts then you may have to probe in to the wires using your pointed test leads. Have you 100% not got a spark from any of your plugs or HT leads, but have from your King HT lead from coil ?? Is this 100% correct ?? Si

Oh right ok so you've got the four wired plug to the tank lift pump, I think I gave you the early wire colours as the real early Corrado's had very similar fuel system to the MK2 Golf, which is red / yellow wire is (power) for both pumps and the violet / black wire is earth or is for the sender unit. I'm sure they share the same power wire as it's on the same circuit I think because both pumps should be running at the same time. I think then for the four pin plug that you have, this is. Right hang on a sec ? just trying to locate the wiring diagram. Will be back shortly. Si ---------- Post added at 11:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 PM ---------- Right here we go, I think red / yellow wire is (power) to pump (this wire is 1.5mm thick) brown wire is (earth) to pump (this wire is 1.5mm thick) brown / blue or brown / black is (earth) to sendor unit (this wire is 1mm thick) violet / white or violet / blue is (power / signal from sendor unit to fuel gauge) (this wire is 1mm thick) Yeah so if you put a power source directly as you did to the external pump under car, but this time to tank lift pump, you should hopefully hear it buzz. (take note of power & earth to tank lift pump) Hope this helps mate. Si :thumbleft:

As above please see links below: http://www.corrado.com.pl/elektryka/corrado92.pdf http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html Hope this helps with any electrical issues. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Tim, does it seem hesitent when engine is cold or when warm, or does it do it all the time on slight throttle ? A lot of VR6 owners on here have had similar issues with their cars, and yes it has been the coil as they've had cracks in the outer casing / insulation. Plus they've had problems with slight throttle when fuel is really low in tank i.e fuel pump playing up. Hope this helps. Si

Hello mate, both the fuel pumps have twin connector plugs. The fuel pump under car, brown wire is (earth) and the red / yellow wire is (power) Fuel pump in tank has violet / black is (earth) and the red / yellow is (power) If you disconect the plug off the pump under car and put a live directly on to the fuel pump, (take note of live and earth) it should fire up hopefully (this will confirm if pump / pumps are on their way out or not) Other than that it could be ignition switch playing up ? Have you got enough power in the battery ? Hope this helps. Si

It does sound as though you've got a exhaust blow from a gasket or from exhaust down pipe a little lower down. Did you use genuine manifold gaskets as they are a bit thicker than some of the after market ones. Check that you can't feel any exhaust fumes from both the down pipe jointings = (where down pipes bolt to manifolds) because it does sound like it's coming from that area. Si

Alright I see so not really a spark or not for very long from spark plug it's self, could be a faulty hall sensor like you say in the distributor. Three wires to the hall sensor (brown = earth) (red = power) (green = I think is the hall sensor signal transmitter wire) Switch ignition on you should have a good earth on the brown wire, if using a power probe the LED will go green to confirm this, and red if put on to power wire. Or if using a multimeter set it to 20 volts DC, right if you put red test lead on to red wire, and black test lead on to the brown wire this should say 12v to confirm good power & earth, then to check operation of the hall sensor you might want to unbolt the distributor, so you'll be able to rotate the rotor arm (to spin it) or crank engine over via key but you might need another pair of heads to help. To test it leave the black test lead on the brown wire (earth) and move the red test lead off the red wire & put on to the green wire, now if you rotate (spin) the rotor arm you should see the voltage go up and down, as the trigger plate / wheel passes the hall sensor, You should see the two or four cut outs in the sides of the trigger wheel, this makes the hall sensor switch off & on. If you get no readings on your multimeter then it could be duff. This sensor acts like a magnet because it pulsates off a steel object that is passing over it (hence the trigger wheel) The crank sensor, cam sensor and ABS sensors are similar as they all pulsate off a steel wheel / plate with cut outs or teeth. Yeah the flash shield won't stay on unless the distributor cap is clipped on. It is best to refit the shield though. Sorry mate what do you mean by = ( The Haynes manual says you need to crush it and glue the new one on - is that correct? ) You don't normally glue anything on or crush the old one, lol You just have to clean / wipe the distributor shaft (make sure the groove / slot is clean and clear, or the new rotor arm could be a bit tight to fit on. Look at the bottom of the rotor arm that fits on the shaft and you'll see a tooth inside which slides in to the shaft, this is the reason why you should clean / wipe the shaft, plus put a very small bit of EP grease or oil in the bottom of the new rotor arm or old one if you're still going to use it. This just makes it a lot easier to get off at a later date. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Main power supply should be around 12 volts DC to fuel tank lift pump, you should be able to hear it working a long with the main fuel pump which is next to the fuel filter under the car. Like you say you may need to charge your battery up a little. The fuel pumps should prime up the fuel system for around 4 to 6 seconds once ignition is switched on, if the car won't start then you may need to reprime the system plus pressing on and off throttle peddle, or keeping the throttle peddle down a little can help to get her going, but you shouldn't have to do that really, the system should be enough to start the engine. The things that give the fuel system it's pressure is the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel accumulator, the pressure regulator is attached to the metering head on the 2.0 16v, and the same for the 1.8 16v, although some 1.8 16v's do have the pressure regulator attached to engine block, very similar to that on the Audi 80 (1988 to 1990) Looks like you've got this type attached to your engine block in your photo (it has the red fuel pipes fixed to it) The accumulator is next to the main pump under car (external fuel pump) if pressure regulator is weak it can let too much fuel through which can course slight misfire or slight black smoke from exhaust, or if it completely fails then car won't start as there will be no pressure in the return fuel line back to tank. Fuel accumulator when they are weak will course bad or rough starting (engine may turn over for longer until it catches) You can have a similar issue even when the engine is warm. I had this issue with mine so replaced it late last year in 2012 VW Part number I think is ( V447 133 441 ) £117.32 price from 2012 (this was for 2.0 16v) but might be the same as 1.8 16v depends on what pressure it runs at as I think there is a slight difference in pressure rating between the 1.8 & 2.0 Been looking at a wiring diagram for the 1.8 16v and I believe the wire to the temp gauge is the (yellow / red) wire, the one that has broken. (I think on the 2.0 16v's it's the yellow wire) If you earth that wire on to the engine you should see the temp gauge go up. The other two wires go to the coolant / fuel control unit on your 1.8, I think as they're the coolant temp sendors, on the 2.0 16v it only has the two coolant temp sendors, one for the temp gauge & the other for the fuel delivery when cold / hot i.e (thermal transmitter) You should get a spark from the spark plug when you earth it straight to the engine, you need to earth it to a bolt or they can spark off the valve cover. The king HT lead should always earth out and spark easily but only if the ignition coil is working of course. Yeah your rotor arm looks alright but can't see it from the top only the front shot that you've taken, any cracks in rotor arm or distributor cap no matter how small then replace with new, as it can weaken the spark, that can course bad starting issues with or with out condensation / damp in the distributor cap. They are only a few pounds new. Looks like you've got the flash shield missing as well which sits under the rotor arm, it's not a major issue but it does help to keep the spark or flash and dirt out of the distributor housing where the hall sendor is. Not sure about the metal ring i.e (hall sendor trigger wheel) it may have been removed & refitted at some point, as there are a few marks and dents on it. Hope this helps. Si

Hello mate, VW Corrado G60 (6 bolt flywheel) face diameter 228mm 1989-1992 same as VR6 (but VR6 has 10 bolt flywheel) for 02A gearbox. Corrado G60 gearbox code ATA 02A (1989 to 1990) Corrado G60 gearbox code AYL 02A (1990 to 1992) 0.5mm run out limit I think is the most common for these flywheels, as anymore could course clutch judder / vibration. Not to sure what the wear limit is on these flywheels i.e thickness limit. Check that flywheel face is flat and smooth and has no cracks or pitting in it (friction & heat damage) Have a look at this link, loads of info on it http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/clutch-kit-FAQ-VW-Audi.htm#flywheel Hope this helps. Si

Regarding your link to GSF CAR PARTS. The top sendor is for the coolant temp gauge Part No : 929VG0090 These are normally in the cylinder head just under the distributor and have one male flat circler spade connector. The lower sensor is the coolant temp sendor (Thermal Transmitter) Part No : 929VG0110 (this is for the 8v not 16v) These are normally blue or white in colour and have a twin spade connection, they fit in the cylinder head almost next to the temp sendor above or can be in one of the black plastic coolant housings if it's a 8v engine. This one for sale at GSF (Part No : 929VG0110) I think is for the 8v as it is held in by a metal retaining clip, normally the 16v's have the coolant temp switch that screws in to the cylinder head almost next to the temp gauge sendor. Yeah on most temp sendors the resistance should be fairly high when cold 200 ohms or 300 ohms or above is normally fine, and once the engine is running and the coolant starts to heat up you should see the readings come down way below 100 ohms. As long as the resistance drops down when the coolant heats up then that is a good sign that the coolant sensor / sensors are working fine, if not then they need eplacing. Hope this helps. Si

By the sounds of it mate it must be seized in the retaining arm if you've tried big time to remove it. Please have a look at this video it's of a Audi A4 / VW Passat having handbrake cables removed, look at 3 mins & 40 seconds (3:40) and you will see him remove the retaining clip, and then he just pulls the large outer casing down out of the retaining arm, that's all you need to do to get yours out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25e19UFrEts But like I say yours by the sound of it is seized in the retaining arm, you can put some heat on it but be careful if you've been using lubricating fluid (WD40) on it as it could catch fire, plus you could melt the inner nylon lining in side the cable casing, which would then need the cable to be replaced. The inner steel cable runs through this nylon lining. How different are the cable retaining arms as you're going to be fitting the MK4 Golf calipers aren't you ? So if the Corrado arm is seized to your handbrake cable you could just cut through the retaining arm but only if it's the same kind of style. Other then that if it still won't come off you might as well just buy a new handbrake cable ? They are quite cheap to purchase. Si

Oh brill nice one mate she runs again. Might be spark or fuel delivery becoming a little weak some where ? Yeah the spark plugs on the 16 valves have double or triple electrodes, these plugs should really last for around 15,000 to 20,000 miles before they need replacing, on these plugs you can not adjust the clearance gap because it's set when there made from new. The centre contact on these plugs should be round but over time after 12,000 miles or more the contact will become oval which is normally when you replace them. I believe you can purchase the single electrode spark plugs for the 16 valves, but these don't normally last as long, and again you shouldn't really adjust the clearance gap on these either, the gap on these is set to 0.9mm or max 1.0mm from new, it should say that on the box. If you haven't replaced your plugs in a wile then it might be a good idea to get some just in case, a good set will cost you £12.00 to £20.00 Bosch plugs are single or double electrode. NGK plugs are normally double or triple electrode. Yeah thinking about it I don't think the early 16 valves mainly the MK2 Golfs had the pick up / knock control reference sensor on HT lead 1 or 4, a lot of the later MK2 Golfs did though as that was the KR engine with 139 BHP, I think the earlier engines were engine codes PL or PU which had 130 BHP, don't think they used these engines in the early Corrado from 1989 to 1992, believe they used the KR engine on the 1.8 16v Corrado. Here are some photo's just for future reference in case anyone needs them. [ATTACH]74832[/ATTACH][ATTACH]74833[/ATTACH][ATTACH]74834[/ATTACH][ATTACH]74835[/ATTACH][ATTACH]74836[/ATTACH][ATTACH]74837[/ATTACH] Si