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I had something like this but on cylinders 1 & 2 on my Corrado, it was the spark plugs, the plugs were firing intermittently, as the centre of the two plugs was lose and was able to spin round inside the hex nut of the spark plug, also they were letting combustion fumes through the plugs, hence reducing the compression. The plugs in cylinders 3 & 4 were fine just faulty plugs in 1 & 2, these plugs were NGK only in the car for 4000 miles if that. Replaced my plugs with a fresh new set and it's been A1. Your issue sounds like faulty HT leads or head gasket gone between cylinders 2 & 3 Are you sure you have fuel to cylinders 2 & 3 as no fuel would course your issue as well. Could also be burnt out valves in cylinders 2 & 3 but I wouldn't of thought so, as VW's normally have the toughened valves & valve seats as standard. Si :thumbleft:

I think new the knock sensor is around £45.00 to £55.00 from VW. Or you might be able to get one off Ebay for £15.00 or £20.00 There is a company called VW Heritage (Tel: 08458 738328) they have the knock sensor in stock, for the G60 engine with engine code PG (their part number is 054905377) price is £12.10 (Blue plug 3 pin, knock sensor) You can rap tape around the base of the knock sensor but as Supercharged has said you really need a new one by the sounds of it. The knock sensor is designed to listen for pinking i.e pre-ignition and tell the ECU to retard the timing accordingly, if the outer plastic insulation is spitting and coming off then the sensor could get interference from damp or dirt or even other sounds ? The only part on the sensor that should be bare metal is on the base i.e the lower face that bolts against the engine block. If you have a slight misfire when driving which doesn't really go when engine is under load, then chances are the knock sensor is on the blink due to it's condition. The torque setting for the G60 knock sensor is 15 Ft Ib (20Nm) If you don't torque the sensor to the correct torque setting then it won't work correclty, as the sensor will be too tight against the engine block or it'll be lose in which case it will not be able to hear the pinking i.e pre-ignition. Si :thumbleft:

Hello RB, yes it could be your wiper motor that is not man enough as it's old and wearing out, you can get a similar symptom as that when the wiper stork is playing up. Have you tried to help the wipers a long with your hand when they become stuck in the centre of the windscreen, to see if there is any resistance from the motor it's self and not just from the dry screen you have. It does sound as though your motor is dying so to speak. I know the Golf MK3 shares a lot of bits with the later Corrados, like the wiper / indicator storks, I'm not sure if the motor is the same though on the Golf and Passat of that decade ? Si :thumbleft: ---------- Post added at 9:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:55 PM ---------- The wiper motor is available on Ebay from around £25.00 by the looks of it. Si

Hello LOVE VW, you can still purchase the metal water pipe that goes from the front of the engine over the top of the gearbox to the heater matrix, I believe VW still sell them or they are on Ebay as well. I've got one off a 1988 (E reg) MK2 Golf GTi 16v that had the KR engine in it in my garage if you want it for £10.00, it's secondhand meaning it has been used but it's in really good condition. Si :thumbleft:

I normally use a little EP grease on the caliper sliders I find this works really well and yes you can use oil as well, a part from on some of the Vauxhall's you do need then to use the correct silicone grease on those though, as they can have a rubber ring on the centre or on the end of the slider shaft, so if you use EP grease the sliders will be extremely tight as there is zero tolerance, and if you use oil on some of these Vauxhall brake sliders then it may make the rubber rings swell, which in time will course the sliders to seize up completely. You can remove the rubber ring but then the caliper won't be sitting straight on the carrier, as the sliders will be too lose as they will no longer have the rubber ring to align them. You normally get new rubber rings as a kit when replacing the pads on some of the Vauxhall's, Citroens and Renault cars. Remember that the silicone grease has a very low resistance drag so allows the slider to move freely in these zero tolerance sliders. I find when I use oil on the sliders they tend to still rattle on some cars, so that's why I use a very small bit of EP grease as it helps to take some of that play out, plus will go slightly oily once the brakes are up to temp but not as thin like oil. But as long as you don't use copper grease on the sliders, as this grease has a very high melting temp limit and so is a lot thicker, it will course the sliders to drag too much which will course uneven brake pad wear, or even completely seize up. As regards to your question I always regrease the caliper piston with silicone grease (for rubber seals), so it'll slide nice and free plus there will be less chance of the inner seal catching and tearing. Some people like to put the brake piston in dry but I always grease them up. It's like an engine or gearbox you would never rebuild one bone dry, you would oil every inner part and prime all the oil galleries that you could, so the same aplies I believe to brakes when rebuilding them or door catch or hinge. Si

Hello Sam, sounds like your Idle Control Valve could be playing up if the engine stalls and the idle is fluctuating now again, you might be able to clean it out, but in doing so it will only last short term before it's stalling the engine again. Check all your vacuum hoses and the by pass breather hoses that fit on to the Idle Control Valve, just in case they are warn because that would give the same symptom. Regarding the lack of power you have this could be a faulty hall sensor in side the distributor, the distributor will still work but when you put your foot down you'll find it hard to get above 45 to 50 MPH. Is that the symptom you have Sam ? When your driving it down the road and it seems ok is it running on all cylinders ?? When you say you have a lack of power is it misfiring as well or is it just down on power ?? Plus does it smell rich of fuel or not ?? Si ---------- Post added at 3:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 3:40 AM ---------- Hello Sam, sounds like your Idle Control Valve could be playing up if the engine stalls and the idle is fluctuating now again, you might be able to clean it out, but in doing so it will only last short term before it's stalling the engine again. Check all your vacuum hoses and the by pass breather hoses that fit on to the Idle Control Valve, just in case they are warn because that would give the same symptom. Regarding the lack of power you have this could be a faulty hall sensor in side the distributor, the distributor will still work but when you put your foot down you'll find it hard to get above 45 to 50 MPH. Is that the symptom you have Sam ? When your driving it down the road and it seems ok is it running on all cylinders ?? When you say you have a lack of power is it misfiring as well or is it just down on power ?? Plus does it smell rich of fuel or not ?? Si

Hello Dan I think theres a thread already on this ? The thread is called: best gear ratios for g60 gearbox Sounds like your own gear box has thrown a syncro or selector as that's why it's jumping out of gear ? I think like you say the Mk2 Golf gear box was used on the very early Corrado's, I know they fitted it to the 1.8 16v for the first year or two, and then moved on to the passat gear box on all the Corrado's after that, but I think with slightly different gear ratios, due to the different BHP in the various engines. The MK2 Golf gear box is a short shift ratio so would be crap in the 2.0 16v and the VR6 Corrado's, as you would be changing gear all the time, yes you would get off the line quite quick as 1st and 2nd gear are really close, but the top end speed would be crap. I think also the 2nd and 3rd gear range is too close on this box. The MK2 1.8 16v Golf GTi was 996 KG in weight and the 1.8 8V GTi was even less so they didn't need the long ratio shift that the Passat gear box has, where as the Corrado's are a lot heaver the G60 is 1115 KG, (1.8 & 2.0 16V are 1190 KG) the (8V is 1097 KG) and the (VR6 is 1240 KG) The Passat gear box they put in to the Corrado is a longer ratio shift so is slightly slower off the mark, but has better cruising range and you can use the 3rd and 5th gears better you'll have a better top end speed too, I feel this gear box matches these engines better. Infect I think they put the Passat gear box in to the G60 Corrado but again with a slightly different gear ratio. The Golf Rallye gear box I think is set up for 4 wheel drive, it has the same engine of course as the G60 Corrado 160BHP as standard, 0 to 60 MPH is 8.6 sec where as the Corrado is 7.8 sec. Plus the Corrado G60 is slightly lighter than the Golf Rallye (Golf Rallye is 1196 KG) and the Corrado G60 is (1115 KG) this is due to the Golf Rallye having 4 Wheel drive, it's the extra weight of the transfer box unit on the main gear box, and the prop shaft plus the rear diff and the two extra drive shafts at the rear. I believe this Golf Rallye box is a similar ratio to that of the MK2 16v Golf, very short quick shift range, the Passat gear box I feel is more suited to the bigger engines in the Corrado like the G60 but mainly the VR6. Like I say if you also look at that old thread there might be some more detailed info there as well. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

If you see that guy driving down your local street then run for your life, lol. I think he was the original character of the computer game, Grand Theft Auto Brake Brake Brake Brake Part 1 :lol: I think there's a sequel to it called, I Stacked The Car :lol:

Jim you could remove the thermostat as it does tend to restrict the water flow a little, this is how the thermostat keeps the engine at a constant temperature, which could also give you more pressure in the cooling system if the stat isn't working correctly, which may lead to various hot spots around the engine or even air locks like Robo22sri has said. So like I say with the stat removed the engine will run a lot cooler plus there will be a lot less pressure in the cooling system, but you may find that you're burning a little more fuel as it's running that bit cooler. But if there's still excessive pressure in the cooling system with the stat removed, then you've 100% got a internal engine problem. I would only run the engine short term with the stat removed, as the engine won't be running really efficiently. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Jim, if you are loosing coolant after only 200 or 300 miles and there are no signs of any leaks what so ever, then yes it is possible that your engine is burning coolant. But like Renson has said you should still check to see if the heater matrix is leaking, as these normally only leak in side the car, normally on the front passenger side under the dash. Plus Renson is correct regarding the engine block test procedure where a blue fluid is used, if it changes from blue to yellow then that is normally means you've got a head gasket issue. When using the block tester you may have to remove a little coolant so that the tester doesn't suck any coolant up, like Renson has already kind of said, plus there is a max line on the tester that you fill the blue fluid to, other wise you'll just get a false reading from the tester. The block tester is designed to sniff, smell for engine cylinder combustion fumes, and changes colour from blue to yellow. The head gasket can blow in some places where it doesn't course the engine to misfire much or at all, the gasket can blow between one or two water ports and so can seep in one or more of the cylinders, as most of the water ports on the engine block & cylinder head are very close to the cylinders. You could have a cracked cylinder liner or a crack in the cylinder head it's self, this is how you could be loosing your coolant over 300 miles or so. Also once the engine is up to running temp go to the back of the car and look at what is coming out of the exhaust tail pipe, as there should be no black, grey or white smoke vapor, if you put your hand over the tail pipe for a second or two, and then have a look at your hand there should only be very slight black soot, if you see water droplets or water moisture on your hand or coming out of the tail pipe, then again this is a sign that something could be wrong. You've said that you can't see any water in the oil i.e (on the dip stick & oil filler cap) and no oil in the coolant expansion tank, but have you sniffed, smelt the coolant in the expansion tank, as it could smell of oil or fuel which again is a sign that you could be getting cylinder combustion fumes in the coolant, which is how you get excessive pressure in the cooling system, leading to over heating issues and issues with loosing coolant with no visible leaks. With your engine running on your drive if you let the car run up to temp, this may take around 15 to 20 mins from cold, your coolant temp gauge should read around 90 degrees C, then your radiator cooling fan should cut in normally around 87 to 90C Your temp gauge if it is reading 105 or 110 degrees C then you may have a problem with your cooling system, as it shouldn't go up that high if your car is just running in your drive way, it should go to 90 to 95C max. The temp gauge should drop down to around 78 to 84 degrees C once you are driving the car down the road, if the gauge is still reading 90 or above then this means your cooling system is over heating. Your coolant hoses from cold should feel soft you should be able to depress the hoses very easily, once the cooling system is up to running temp you should still be able to depress the hoses slightly, there should be some pressure in the hoses though once hot, but if there's too much pressure this you will know as the hoses will feel almost rock hard, this is the sign that the cooling system is over heating, meaning that the water flow has stopped or the thermostat is still closed even though the coolant is at 87 to 90 degrees C, or as mentioned above that you may have a cylinder head / gasket issue. But like I say if you can't find any leaks anywhere from the cooling system, then I'd say you may well have a internal engine issue. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Haven't you done that job yet, I'm only kidding mate. Yeah it does seem a strange one this :scratch: Every thing does seem to be pointing to the valve timing, if the car doesn't run at all or not for long with the distributor in the correct place. But then you say once the distributor has been advanced up a lot fervor than where it should be it runs fine. Unless it's a faulty distributor ? But these normally don't work at all when they die. There are two knock sensors on the 16 valvers that check for pre-ignition, but I can't see that would course the error you have if they were not working, they normally course a very slight misfire when they blow, as they are unable to communicate with the ignition control unit / ECU. You mentioned that you weren't sure if your car has had up graded cams fitted in the past, I think a longer lobe on the cams may course a little rough running at idle but then should run fine once your driving. Unless they are up graded cams and the slot on the back of the exhaust cam where the distributor fits in to is out, as it could be different from that of a standard cam, which would course you to advance the timing round, so to speak, but then you have said it was running fine before the work was carried out, so don't know :scratch: Yeah don't know it's a real strange one this. Yeah there's something out somewhere, it just seems so strange that you've god the engine timed up correctly but you've got to advance the dizzy round so much more, for it to be running fine. Is there anyone on this Corrado Forum living not far from you, who my be could pop round and just check everything you've done so far, as I think someone has already mentioned, as two minds are better then one or try your local workshop garage ? If I think of anything else I'll let you know. Sorry I can't be of more help. Si :thumbleft:

Hi Pete how have you got on, any joy with opening your bonnet.

Hello mate, Yes you could use a longer 8mm bolt but you've still got the risk of the bolt pulling too much on the thread and stripping them completely. I've had something like that before, what I did was drill out the thread then retap and fit a helicoil which is a stainless new spiral replacement thread, which will when fitted correctly still allow the original bolt to fit in, plus the helicoil is normally a stronger thread than the original. I've got to fit a helicoil to the O/S/F inner anti roll bar bolt hole, as the threads in that have gone coursing the anit roll bar to move and knock slightly, I'm going to do that one weekend when the sun comes back out. You might be able to fit a helicoil to the thread that has gone on yours, you normally fit them with a little of thread lock so the helicoil shouldn't come out once it's fitted in. That's the only thing with alloy threads they do tend to strip if tightened too much. You can buy the helicoil kits for around £15.00 to £30.00 on Ebay, but you need to know what pitch the thread is on the bolt to match it, if it's a 8mm bolt on a VW it should be a 1mm pitch or 1.25mm pitch thread. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Pete, yeah I've had that problem before where my bonnet cable snapped off in side the car behind the fude box. I did what you've done by taking out the front grill and had to open both catches with a screw driver & pliers. I think I even had to cut through the cable guide which runs between both catches, to expose the cable to be able to pull on it to open the N/S catch, which is what you may have to do if your N/S catch won't open, sounds like yours is seized slightly. I think theres two bonnet cables on the Corrado, one from the bonnet lever to the O/S catch, and then another cable between the catches, I think that's right. In which case I don't think you'll be able to apply enough pulling power to open the catch, unless you expose that centre cable which runs under the slam panel. You could try jacking the car up you might be able to reach the catch lever with a very long screw driver ?? May be ?? This is only as a last resort if any of the above don't work for you. You could remove the N/S/F head light but in doing so this would mean the head light would be come damaged, as you'll have to rip it out to gain access to the N/S bonnet catch. Or may be you could cut some of the air flow guide away (this is the plastic side surround on the sides of the radiator, which directs all the air from the front grill in to the radiator) So again you'll be able to gain access to that catch. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

The Thermal Transmitter (Coolant Temp Switch) governs the cold start injector. (The coolant temp switch tells the ECU when the coolant is cold and so tells the cold start injector to fire on start up, which should fire more fuel in to the inlet for around 3 to 5 mins which will course the engine to rev at around 1100 RPM, and then should shut off once the coolant has warmed up and RPM will drop down to a normal 800 to 850 RPM) Sounds like your cold start injector is getting false readings and is not shutting off, could be a faulty warn cold start injector but these normally last for ages before they die, the coolant temp switch on the other hand is in contact with 87 - 90 degrees C coolant almost everyday, these are one of the most common sensors to fail and course the error you have. Si :thumbleft:

Hello there, a complete working Corrado will sell for £950.00 to £1200.00 for a early one, and around £2000.00 to £3500.00 for a decent later Corrado. So I would of thought you should be able to purchase a Corrado bare shell for £350.00 to £750.00 depending on year and condition. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

All temp switches should read around 200 ohms or above when there cold, if you have no reading at all or if it reads very low when cold then the switch is duff. When measuring resistance on a temp switch, the resistance should be high 200 ohms or above when the coolant is cold, and then once the engine has been running for a bit and the coolant is warm / hot you should see the resistance drop down to a very low reading, if the reading is still high when the coolant is hot, then the Thermal Transmitter (Coolant Temp Switch) is duff. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Steve, have a look at this thread Coolant choices for VR6 all the info you need is there. I think the VR6 holds around 6.7 litres of coolant. Before you drain out your old coolant check for any signs of leaks from your, RADIATOR COOLANT HOSES (top & bottom radiator hoses, heater hoses from engine to bulkhead) if any of the hoses are splitting or are rock hard then replace them A S A P THERMOSTATE HOUSING (as this is plastic and they can leak on high mileage cars) HEARTER MATRIX (check for any signs of dampness on the carpet under the dash front passenger side, as most early Corrado's suffered with faulty / leaking heater matrix, check for antifreeze smell or slight steam coming from heater vents with blower on full) RADIATOR COOLING FAN (check that the fan spins freely and cuts in at the right temp when engine has been running for 20 mins or more) Also check that your temp gauge is working. As long as you do these pre-checks before you drain out your old coolant, then you should be fine. Like I say also have a look at that thread Coolant choices for VR6 Hope this helps mate. Si :thumbleft:

I'd be very careful if I was this fake guy, because what goes around comes around :tumbleweed: Not everyone will take a scam well if they've been had :rambo: He could end up losing something :nurse: Not everyone calls the :lcop: It's a very clever thing the world wide web, everyone can be traced, tracked, and found :infinity: Who's that person walking past you, who's is that vechicle parked over there, who is who :turn-l: Wouldn't want to be in his shoes :shrug: :shrug:

Oh my god that is one bad looking coil pack, and you've been getting some kind of a spark from that :shocked!: Hopefully you've got it all sorted now. Si :thumbleft:

Yeah that would course your exhaust blow 100% :) You need to check your exhaust manifold as well for any cracks just in case, and make sure it fitts flat against the head as the manifold gets very hot and can distort. Si :thumbleft:

The timimg marks on the Corrado and Golf MK2 four cylinder engines are all the same, you've got the mark on the top on the front of the cam pulley which lines up with the notch in the cam cover, and there's a second mark on the back of the cam pulley which lines up with the top of the head (so you can't really get these wrong) There should be a timing mark on the side face of the flywheel you can only see this mark through the small inspection window, the inspection window is a small hole at the top front of the bell housing on the gearbox (which SAM2.0 has already told you about) If you say you've got no TDC mark on the flywheel side face, then the flywheel may have been fitted wrong by someone else ?? Or the flywheel is just coked up with dirt and oil which is coving over the TDC mark ?? (THERE IS ALWAYS A TDC MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL SIDE FACE, ALWAYS) There is also a auxiliary shaft which drives the distributor on the 8 valve engines, theres a pulley on this shaft as well which will need to be timed up. (BUT LIKE I SAY THIS IS ONLY FOR THE 8 VALVE ENGINES FOR THIS PULLEY TO BE ALIGNED UP CORRECTLY) If yours is the 16 valve engine then you don't have to worry about timing this auxiliary shaft pulley mark, up with the crank shaft pulley as the auxiliary shaft is only driving the oil pump. Are you sure you haven't put the can shaft pulley on back to front which you can on the 8v & 16v heads, because if you have it can course the engine to rev or idle erratically, plus also it will make the cam belt catch on the cam belt cover and back plate, (THIS COULD WELL BE THE NOISE YOU HAVE) Yeah that's what it sounds like to me you've got the cam shaft pulley on back to front, which will also break off the woodruff key which is made into the pulley it's self. I thought you said you had already broken off a woodruff key on the original pulley ?? I'd recheck your valve timing if I were you. The cam belt when fitting these you should always have the slack on the tensioner side, if you haven't then your trying to fit the belt incorrectly, plus the cam shaft pulley should be the last pulley to fit the cam belt on to, always. (START FITTING THE CAM BELT TO THE CRANK PULL, AUXILIARY PULLEY, TENSIONER AND LAST OF ALL THE CAM SHAFT PULLY) Plus also you can get a noise from the tensioners as they rib on the lower cam belt cover, because if you don't have the correct twin pin tensioner adjusting tool you won't be able to pull the tensioner up enough, away from the lower cover. You have to be very careful as these engines can smash to bits, (MEANING THERE IS A HIGH RISK CHANCE OF BENT VALVES, IF YOU'VE GOT THE TIMING OUT TOO FAR) Hope this helps mate. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Oz, I've recently replaced my fuel accumulator and the two fuel pipes on my Corrado 2.0 16v as they where badly rusted, I purchased them from VW main dealer. The Accumulator is still available at VW is around £117.32 VW PART N.O ( V447 133 441 ) The fuel pipes are no longer made by VW main dealers but some still have old stock at their warehouses (this is how I got them) These are the two fuel pipes from the fuel pump to Accumulator, and then from Accumulator to fuel filter. Fuel pipe from Fuel pump to Accumulator VW PART N.O ( V535 201 218A ) £44.10 You might need the two washers as well, VW PART N.O ( VN 013 812 8 ) £0.31p each Fuel pipe from Accumulator to fuel filter VW PART N.O ( V191 201 373 ) £35.92 These items should also be the same for the Corrado 1.8 16 valver. Hope this helps mate. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Rob, A good spark plug should be slightly tanned on the electrode as this shows the engine is running correctly, (meaning it's running at the correct temperature & is burning a good fuel mixture) yeah those spark plugs of yours were a bit coked up with oil & fuel deposits (looks like it is running a bit rich) You might be burning some oil as well Rob. Those spark plugs you normally change them every 15,000 to 20,000 miles with the 2, 3 or with the 4 electrodes as they've got a longer life span. I'm not too sure if you can adjust the electrode gaps on these plugs (I don't think you can) as there normally set up when made. The centre contact should be round if it's oval at all then you should really replace them with new. Si :thumbleft:

Hello mate, with out really seeing your car up close I can't be sure. But if the exhaust heat sheld was loose it would normally course a rattle, not really a knock. I'd have a look at your drive shafts mainly the inner joints that bolt to the gearbox, as they can somtimes have that knocking noise when driving. Plus check that the front subframe bolts are tight, as that noise you have sounds a bit like something is moving / sliding across a bolt thread ? I'll have another look at your video. Si :thumbleft: