vw rule

Hello Jon_VR6, that's great if they can produce that item. But if not I've found a few bits that may or may not be of use. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ONE-WIPER-WORKING-WINDSCREEN-WIPER-MOTOR-LINKAGE-LINK-REPAIR-CLIP-KIT-/321230813858?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4acad93aa2 Or may be to make something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDSCREEN-WIPER-MOTOR-LINKAGE-REPAIR-PLATE-FORD-GALAXY-VW-SHARAN-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-/261293847987?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item3cd653b5b3 I can only really find these rubber grommets, can't find any that are nylon, which I think would be close to the original ones ?? http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/171529/heli-canopy-rubber-grommet-small-10pcs I will have a look around at a few places close to me, as I've got a few days off now. Other then that it's to drill through the ball joint part, and use a small bolt, washers and a nut to keep it attached ?? Or it's to purchase the longer arm from VW Heritage part n.o 535955326A £28.30 and bend it into the correct shape or cut it and weld it to the correct shape of the shorter arm, this way it's a new arm with new bushes at both ends, and will be the correct replacement after a little fabrication ?? What do you guys think. Si

No worries mate. Si

I belive you can purchase both sides through VW Heritage, this includes the outer black scraper seal and the plastic inner seal. The only one I can't see / find on their site is the O/S/F inner seal ?? a part from that these parts you can get hold of NEW. N/S/F outer scraper seal £41.36 part n.o 535837473A 01C (in stock) O/S/F outer scraper seal £53.13 part n.o 535837474A 01C (in stock) N/S/F inner plastic seal £26.67 part n.o 535837475 01C (in stock) O/S/F inner plastic seal £ ?? part n.o 535837476 01C ???? Not sure about this one I ordered some bits from them takes about 3 weeks to get to your door. Hope this helps. Si

Oh yeah that will look amazing when she's finished. Si

Hello mate, I normally use Brake Cleaner or Carb Cleaner as it's very similar to petrol, and it really does help to dissolve the carbon and dirt off from pistons and most other engine parts. Or yes you could use Redex it is ment to be really good as well. It really depends on how much and how thick the carbon is, I've also used WD40 as well but only when there's small traces of carbon, and it's really easy to remove. I wouldn't use a steel scraper as it could dig into the aluminum piston face. You can use fine sandpaper and spray it with WD40 or brake cleaner, but you'll have to be careful because if you use the sandpaper for too long, it can produce a grindy past so you'll have to keep cleaning the surface off, mainly by wiping the area and allowing the tissue or cloth to soak up the grindy past, then using an air line and blow the area clean. Or the other way I've done it when the carbon is on quite thick and rock hard, is by using wire wool or a brillo pad, as this helps to cut through the carbon and remove it, this is quite soft on the pistons and won't damage them, but you'll have to check for small wire pieces that have broken off from the wire wool / brillo pad. Here is a video of someone using some wire wool and a small air compressor and an air drill, with a small wire wheel fitted in the drill, if you go for this only use it at a slow speed and don't stay in one area for too long, or you'll wear the surface away unevenly. I think it's a good idea what they've said in that VWVORTEX forum, about using tape and attaching it over the oil and water ports to stop crap from getting in. I would use duct tape as it's water prove and has a very strong bond, so won't come off if it's spilt on with water, oil or brake cleaner. You can turn the engine over by hand with the cylinder head removed, but make sure you observe where TDC is, as you'll need the engine to be timed up ready for the refit of the head. Simply use your index and second finger on your right hand to hold up the timing chain slightly, this will keep the chain tort and so it shouldn't jump, when you turn the engine over. It helps as well to have some oil on your fingers. This way you'll be able to have each piston in turn at TD to clean them. The timing marks on the VR6 are normally on the side of the flywheel, you can see them through the small window at the top of the bell housing, plus there can be a mark on the crank shaft pulley. Once engine is at TDC you should have pistons 1 and 6 up flush with the block. Hope that helps. Si

Topman you've found what it was then :thumbleft: Hope the rest of the build goes alright. Si

Hello there, I think a few people off this Forum have tried the single wiper, some liked it and others didn't. Most have gone for the VW Lupo upgrade. Here are a few links for you to look at and read through, regarding the Lupo upgrade and the single wiper option. http://www.matey-matey.com/corrado_wiper_upgrade.shtml http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=2573&highlight=corrado+single+wiper http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=69&highlight=corrado+single+wiper http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=3003&highlight=corrado+single+wiper http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=77167&highlight=corrado+single+wiper http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=17361&highlight=corrado+single+wiper http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9257 I'm not saying for you to purchase these off Ebay, it's really to show you how they look fitted. A lot of the MK2 Golf is very similar to that of the Corrado. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vw-Golf-Gti-Mk2-8v-16v-G60-Single-Wiper-Conversion-Complete-everything-u-need/390683271438?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D2150097111279793594%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D150640667062%26 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mk2-golf-single-wiper-conversion-kit-BONRATH-storm-motor-1-8t-vr6-g60-16v-show/221301042478?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D2150097111279793594%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D150640667062%26 I think this kit new is around £85.00 to £95.00 new http://www.venommotorsport.com/storm-single-wiper-kits.html Hope this helps. Si

Ok Rob, thanks that's cool. Thanks again :thumbleft: Si

Hello Rob, have you got the vehicle speedo sensor (V S S) it should be attached to the speedo gear, screws on top of the gearbox, it should have 3 connectors in the speedo sensor socket. If you've got it please could you let me know how much. And the same for the fuel surge tank unit please. This is the black unit that holds the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel accumulator. Sorry Rob just one more thing have you got at all the black plastic blank, that fits in to the dash left of the head light switch. Many thanks. Si

I just use a solar panel stripe charger which just lies on top of the dash, and trickle chargers the battery during daylight hours. Only cost me £9.99 and never had a flat battery in the last two years since having the solar stripe, so weather I'm at home, work or out and about the battery can always be topped up. It's no good if you are going to store your car over winter in the garage, not unless you've got a window or have a skylight in the roof. But for out door storage it works great.

Have a look at this thread, it will show you in detail the sensor in question that normally fits over HT lead number 1 or 4 http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=76195 This is normally on the 2.0 16v 9a engines, but cam be on some of the very later KR engines as well in the MK2 Golf. Yes the blue HT leads will fit your 2.0 16v Corrado, but like Davidwort has told you, you may have to swop the pickup / impulse sensor over on to your replacement leads. But like I say have a look / read of the thread that I've attached above for you, it should help. Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, I'm sure the MK2 Golf fuel tank will not fit the Corrado, I think it's a slightly different shape but only just, the real difference is the fuel neck area, it's too long or too short to that of the Corrado's 55 ltr tank, and I think the same for the 70 ltr one as well. Well the 70ltr is a much bigger tank any way. The front end on the MK2 Golf is very close to the Corrado and so is the floor pan, but the rear is slightly different as it has a slightly wider track as the Corrado's have the Passat rear beam axle, to that of the MK2 Golf. Corrado fuel tank. http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=742669 A MK3 Golf fuel tank will or should fit a MK2 Golf, as the floor / boot panels are very similar. but they don't fit the Corrado as the Corrado has a much more rigid shell and so feels differ on the road. MK2 and MK3 Golf fuel tanks. Hope this helps, Si

Hello Geoff, I believe they are the same, as the 1.8 16v and 2.0 16v heads have the same spark plug tube depths in them. Plus the leads are the same in looks. Hope that helps. Si

Biting the hand I ment to say, :lol:

Yeah I know what you mean about old Roy he was a good lad. And Bluebear was always biting the head that feeds him, lol. Working there would of been fun but they always did really long hours to get the car completed in 6 weeks or less. Si

As above, cheers. Good old Roy :salute: Tony :( Boyd and Bluebear :brickwall: Si :thumbleft:

Yeah that's a really nice tool box, really reminds me of that American Hot Rod series with Boyd Coddington and gang. Si

Hello there, When was your Golf last serviced ?? I'd check dash for any orange engine warning light, this means you have an error (ECU has stored a fault code) So you'll need to have the ECU's chip scanned to see if it's one of the sensors. The ECU will only store a fault code if the error it picks up is always there, if it's an intermittent fault it may not store a fault code. If the fuel pump is not priming as it should once the ignition is switched on, then it could be one of the above as Jon_VR6 has said. Ignition switch: (Switch could be warn or faulty) Check how the key slides in and out of the barrel, plus how the switch turns. Check for slack movement / play in ignition switch and the barrel, that's normally a clear sign that the switch is on the way out. If the barrel is really lose and warn and catchy to turn, then this can course the key not to always fit into the switch. the barrel is fitted in the steering column lock casing, and the ignition switch is on the back of the barrel, normally. Fuel pump relay (Faulty relay and or Bad connection) - (immobilizer staying on or playing up) Check to see how the alarm / immobilizer are working, do they always arm and disarm every time. Fuel pump: This should always prime the fuel system once the ignition is turned on, you should be able to here a slight buzz from the pump for around 6 to 8 seconds. And once the engine catches and starts up the fuel pump should be working then full time, until the ignition is switched off. fuel pressure regulator: (But remember this is vacuum operated, normally) The pressure regulator is normally vacuum operated so isn't electrically connected in to the ECU. The regulator is just to maintain fuel pressure from the injector rail to tank (in the return line) I think the fuel pressure regulator maintains pressure in the return fuel line back to the fuel tank, so if it was weak the fuel pump should still prime the system once ignition is turned on via the key. But if the pressure regulator has packed up completely then it may not allow the excess fuel, to return under pressure back to the fuel tank and so coursing a back lash fuel blockage, in other words the fuel pump may only come on just and cuts out too soon on start up, as it's finding it difficult to pump through to injector rail, because the fuel in the return line isn't moving through and so not allowing the car to start up. Regarding your spark plugs and HT coil packs or HT leads, these would course a misfire or lumpy running all of the time under load. Really you would have to check your spark plugs too be sure. HT coil packs these are the ones that bolt individually on to each spark plug, normally when these are worn you can smell the carbon burnt smell from them when they're removed. I've replaced loads of these off Renaults and Peugeots and Fords over the years. HT leads these can show signs of wear i.e cracking in the outer silicone skin, and by lifting off one lead at a time to see if it makes a difference or not to the rough running, if it makes a difference then you know that lead and plug are working ok, but if there is no difference and the misfire is still there then you know then that lead or plug aren't working correctly. There are other sensors that can course similar symptoms, but these do not course the fuel pump not to run. The fuel pump obtains it's power from the fuse box through the fuel relay. Coolant temp switch: A warn switch will course the ECU to dump in extra fuel as the ECU can no longer read the coolant temp, the car can be a real swine to start up from cold or even when hot. This sensor is also known as the thermal transmitter. 7/10 car won't start. 3/10 car will start but run really rough. Cam shaft position sensor: These I think control the injectors (Tells them when to fire) So if it is faulty it can course the injectors not to fire quick enough, so at idle it may seem ok but once under load i.e at 1500 RPM or above can course running issues. Fuel injectors: these are governed by the cam sensor and crank sensor, to ensure that the injectors fire at the correct time. These injectors can play up as they've normally got a needle valve in side them, which operates via an electronic pulse, which makes the needle valve open and close, the needle valves can wear uneven coursing injector spray to be too thick or thin, or the injectors can drip fuel even though the needle valve is closed, coursing fuel to go in to cylinder when it shouldn't be coursing black grey smoke from exhaust and rough running under load. Crank sensor: This tells the spark plugs when to fire. So this is normally working or not working. 8/10 will course the vehicle not to start. 2/10 the vehicle will start but with running issues or can start up one day then not another. The crank sensor communicates with the knock sensor as well. Knock sensor: This sensor measures the timing angle with in small tolerances. It detects pinking and so keeps the timing on it's advanced limit for good performance. It can course a misfire when they pack up. Air flow sensor: This measures the amount of air entering in the inlet via air filter, this communicates with both the cam sensor and crank sensor, and so if it dies it can course the car not to start or if it does it will run rough, as it's no longer able to measure the fuel to air ratio together. Lambda sensor: This measures unburnt fuel deposits with in the exhaust fumes just before the cat, it acts as a final check to make sure the engine is at it's top performance, plus communicates with the cam sensor and air flow sensor. When this sensor dies it courses the ECU to go in to limp mode and so there will be a reduction in performance. Most of these fuel sensors get a signal from the coolant temp switch regarding rich mixture at cold and lean mixture when hot. But like I say I would get it scanned first, i.e diagnostic scanner, as this should find the error straight away if it's a sensor. You might be able to found the fault with one of the sensors, but unless the ECU fault recorder chip is cleared clean the engine may still run a little rough, as it'll thick the fault is still there. Hope this helps. Si

Have a look at these below, it might help. http://reviews.cnet.co.uk/digital-slrs/best-digital-slr-for-beginners-49286113/ How to focus tips (with digital camera) Cleaning tips Si

Thanks Clumpy1 that's great I'll give 8vMatt a shout. Thanks again :salute: Si :thumbleft:

Hello Red, 100% as Dave has said above. Each head light unit has 3 bulbs in them (1, H4) (1, 233) (1, H3) H4 = dip & main (twin element) Plus 233 = side light (single element) One H4 is fitted in to each head light unit and the same with the 233 sidelight bulb. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-90-Osram-H4-Night-Breaker-Plus-High-Low-Headlight-Bulbs-472-P43T-/300824848808?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item460a8ee9a8 H3 = Front main spots and front fogs (single element) One H3 is fitted in to each head light unit and each front fog light unit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-VOLKSWAGEN-Corrado-88-95-Xenon-55w-Fog-Light-Bulbs-/190447356959?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c578c0c1f Front indicator bulb (chrome plated inner coat) 382 (21 watt) (single element) This bulb shines a bright orange / amber so can only be fitted to the front or rear indicators only. One bulb per indicator unit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHROME-FRONT-INDICATOR-BULB-TO-FIT-VW-Corrado-MODELS-382-P21W-/130975816780?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item1e7ec45c4c Each front indicator unit has one 382 bulb, (21 watt) and the same for the rear indicator (single element) One bulb per side This bulb is also fitted in the reverse lights (again one each side) Plus one 382 is fitted to the rear fog light (one only) just the drivers side = O/S/R http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-Corrado-Front-Indicator-Bulbs-89-95-FI382-/400170200910?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2c00af4e Each rear stop & side light has a 380 bulb (twin element) (21/5 watts) one is fitted to each rear light unit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-New-Genuine-Osram-Ultra-Life-Stop-Tail-Light-BAY15D-P21-5W-Car-Bulbs-/350888559129?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item51b2968219 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-VW-CORRADO-1987-1995-BRAKE-STOP-LIGHT-TAIL-CAR-BULBS-380-/221276117084?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338515985c Two 501 bulbs are fitted in the number plate light unit = each bulb is (single element) And one 501 are fitted in to the wing indicator each side, one on each wing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Osram-Original-Standard-Number-Plate-Light-501-W5W-T10-Bulbs-/350888556305?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item51b2967711 Hope this helps. Si

Am I correct in saying there's someone on here who bought a batch of up rated head light switches, which don't break so easily as they're heavy duty so have stronger inners and don't course the wiring to burn away. I'm sure it was someone off here. I'll have a look in the search menu tomorrow or later on today should I say, lol. Si

Yeah cheers Dave I might purchase the after market wiring loom which ups the voltage slightly, but thought I'd try the bulbs first which I did years ago, and they seem to be bright enough as they are. I've got a new head light wiring loom and switch both from VW, the loom I think is still available from VW I've got the part number somewhere for it, if anyone needs it. I had the same set up on my old MK2 Scirocco years ago with those bulbs in the head lights, never had a problem with them. As long as you keep the standard wattage in the head lights i.e 60/55 watts you'll be fine. But don't put 100 watts in to head lights as they'll be too bright and will dazzle on coming vehicles, plus they may fail the MOT for being too bright. And as Dave has said they could weaken the contact in the head light switch, and melt the wiring loom (the head light loom) That's why I've kept the original wattage 55/60 in head lights. My 100 watt bulbs are only fitted to the main spots and front fogs, both of which are single element bulbs, plus these only come on when the main beam is operated, so there is no chance of blinding on coming vehicles. Plus they pass the MOT as well. And there's less chance of the switch contact melting as the main beam is only on for short bursts. The reflectors in the main spots & front fogs are heat resistant so should be ok. You never know there might be premature ware to them by using the 100 watt bulbs, but like I say I've had these bulbs fitted to most of my cars over the years, one of which was my Scirocco which I had for years, and they were all fine. Cheers Si :salute:

Hello there, I think the 9a and KR block are very similar, the 9a block flairs out a little more then on the KR lower down, as it has to hold the 2.0 crank shaft. Your block could be a early 9a block that hasn't been bored out to a 2.0 ?? Or the old owner before you had the car changed the engine from 1.8 over to the 2.0 ?? But yes the answer to your question is that you do have a 9a block in your car as that is the number 053 103 021B for the 2.0 (9a) engine block. I think the 1.8 (KR) block number is 027 100 101B Engine block number is on the front of engine just behind the dip stick tube. Late 1991 and early 1992 was the change over years from 1.8 16v over to 2.0 16v The 2.0 16v (9a) cylinder head part number is: 051 103 373 The 1.8 16v (KR) cylinder head part number is: 027 103 373 Cylinder head number is on the front of head slightly to the left near the top close to the top gasket lip, i.e where the valve cover gasket sits. I think that's correct. Hope this helps. Si

Could be the fuel distributor like you say sticking slightly. The fuel distributor is what all four fuel pipes bolt in to on top of the air box / metering head. It might also have a regulator on the engine block like some of the early Audi's had, some of the KR blocks had them as well, but only on the early KR block I think. I take it you have got power to the fuel distributor and fuel governor and air flow sensor, which are on the metering head all three of them, as Aide has already said. Hope you get her going very soon. Si