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Corrado Buying Guide PART 2 The important thing with any engine is regular oil changes with decent oil. Also Check: Oil cap(mayo) Water (mayo) Oil filter (should be VW or Bosch) Timing belt (all belts when serviced) has been changed. (Excludes VR6's as these have timing chains) Check oil level & colour Engine noise (tappets and knocking) Smoke from exhaust Oil leaks – after a drive, check for any signs of oil leaks. Listen out for noisy fuel pumps Gearbox Difficulty engaging gears - mainly 2nd and 1st when cold Exhaust As with any car, check for any signs of the exhaust knocking/rubbing against the underside of the car or listen for any signs of the exhaust blowing (hole in the exhaust) The standard exhaust is heavy and runs close to the rear axle and so a knocking from the rear on dips/bumps might be fixed with new rubbers Electrics Lights – Corrado lights are poor. An uprated headlight loom (can be made for £10 or bought for £50) would be a bonus Heater – does it function on all settings? Heated windows/mirrors/washer jets MFA computer (check mileage), and that all functions work: Time, Miles traveled, Time elapsed, Average speed, Average MPG, Oil temp, Outside Temp Also check that the MFA is not flashing or that it doesn't rest itself once the ignition is turned off. Both are signs of clocking. Electric windows Electric Mirrors Rear spoiler – Does it work when standing and automatically when moving (45mph is the most common ‘raise' speed (should lower at under 10mph)) Alarm/immobilizer Does the stereo automatically switch on and off with the ignition Driving Make sure: Doesn't pull to the side when driving or breaking. Engine performs as it should (G60 – low down pull, VR6 are better pull at higher revs) Any knocking, droning, clunking or any other noises Squeaks from belts such as power steering belt Check documentation Log book (No. of owners) Service receipts Dealer stamps in service book Check that the History corresponds with/backs up the mileage VR6 specific checks Listen for any noise from the timing chain. Slight noise (rattle) can be acceptable. The guides and tensioner can need replacing once mileage approaches 80k+. £200 for parts alone and it's quite labour intensive as it can be worth doing the clutch whilst you're at it. VR6's generally have a rough idle. Check that the idle isn't overly erratic. Puffs of blue smoke on start-up (especially from cold) and over run. It could mean it has bore wear (time for a new block!), but it does mean you need the rings checking out. UK and Euro VR6 engines should have the ABV engine code which is the 2.9 litre engine. Golfs and USA VR6's (SLC for USA Corrado) AAA engine code are fitted with 2.8 litre version G60 specific checks Has charger been rebuilt? This can be one of the most important (read: expensive) things to make sure has been done properly. Remove the big charger outlet pipe and check for oil. G60 boost check Do you know how to test your boost levels? Start Motor Move the MFA selector to "2" Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) Stop motor Start Motor Release the MFA end button. Press the MFA End button one time. For UK cars, you should now see 450-470 (warm engine) fluctuating with idle. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! I hope this helps :thumbleft:

How long has the car been stud for, and which Corrado is it ? I believe the USA only had the two types the G60 and then the VR6. The G60 is supercharged with 160 BHP, and the VR6 has 6 cylinders but only has the one cylinder head with 178 BHP. Corrado Buying Guide PART 1 Body & External Check for accident damage around inner wings and the boot floor, including seams. The rear panel (above the spare wheel as you look in the boot) has a VAG sticker which gives all model information, if this has gone, the car may have had rear end damage and been rebuilt/resprayed. Rusty creases in the inner part of the front wings may mean the car has had some front end damage/repair. Above rear bumper - check that the two vertical 'seams' at each side of the rear panel are perfect, straight and even, with no bubbling/rust coming through (possible evidence of poor rear end damage repair). Also look for rust on the chassis and under the bonnet and door sills and check the valance under/behind the front bumper/lower spoiler for rust. Check body for: Scratches Dents Rust Misaligned panels (inc doors, bonnet, boot) Door handles are stiff. Can be replaced with Passat rear handles (de-locked) for around £10 each or genuine Corrado handles for approx £55 each! Stone chips on the bonnet are quite common. Although this can just be an indication of motorway driving. For info:- Bonnet cross sections: Early style ------______------ Late Style ____----------____ Lights for cracks including spots. Headlights for early models are £60+vat and £99+vat for later complete units. Headlight glass is 22.50+VAT from Euro Parts for both early and late models Fogs from GPC will cost approx £50 for early style and approx £75 for later style Indicators are about £50 new from VW, but can be had from scrap yards more commonly than "good" fog lamps. 2nd hand they seem to fetch about £25 the pair. More details on the differences between early and late specs can be found at the bottom of this page Chassis plates - check the VIN plate on the cross member at the back of the engine bay matches the log book and the sticker inside the boot Colour code ("mailshot" size sticker on the inside of the rear panel with the relative colour code or an orange-red smallish sticker on the inside of the o/s/f wing) & also a sticker insider the drivers side door pillar. Wipers are notoriously poor – possible remedies include modding the existing setup or using Lupo wipers, which would be a bonus if already done Colours/Codes See the list at the bottom of this page for colour codes and details VW's (amongst others) reds are quite infamous for fading/going pink. A good check to see if the colour can be recovered is to rub a wet finger on the paint – if it regains some of it's colour, the odds are that it can be recovered with cutting compound treatment Interior Look out for ripped/worn/saggy seat bolsters Sunroof – does it tilt and slide. Any scratching to the paint on the external side of the sunroof Passat glass sunroof can be used as a direct replacement Check for damp carpets in the footwells – could be due to heater matrix or could need new inner door membranes If its passenger side check that leaves, pine needles etc have not blocked the drains by the bulkhead, as in hard rain the bulkhead area can fill up and overflow into the ventilation intake. Cheap fix! Leather is a sought after extra. Available in Black, Cream, Grey [any more?] and on the Campaign model, Brick-Red (but you'll be lucky to find one of the 6 available Campaign interiors or cars. Check the headlight switch action is smooth and accurate - they run warm and this can make the plastic brittle. If its notchy or wobbly, it could be about to snap inside and a new one is expensive. Used one, less so, but rare. Alternative is a bottle of superglue and a quiet night in. First aid kit in centre arm-rest (if applicable) - can be replaced with other first aid kits for around £30 Warning triangle in rear seat back (zipper at top) - can be bough from dealers for around £20 Check that the ventilation control panel functions competely. The fan should work in all four positions and the "direction" dial should also work. For later (dial type panel) a replacement is over £200 and slider type panel used on early cars is no longer available from VW Wheels & tyres Kerbed alloys Worn tyres (especially uneven wear) Missing centre caps Signs that the wheels are fouling the arches Check the condition of the spare wheel, and more importantly, that it has one! Also check that the jack, wheel-brace, spanner and screwdriver are present All 4 cylinder (1.8 G60) models have 4-stud hubs and all VR6's have 5-stud hubs. Suspension Listen for any knocking sounds from the suspension and check to see if there is any leakage from the dampers. Under rear wheel arches - look at shock absorber top spring plate, check for corrosion and ensure there is a gap between the plate the top of the strut spring sits in, and bodywork. A decent set of coilovers can be a plus point because if you intend to add them yourself, you will need to budget approx £500 for an average (price-wise) setup. VW did spend a lot of money developing the suspension, however, so finding a good standard setup is preferable (might be a sign of less 'spirited' driving as well). Brakes Check handbrake. Lots of ‘clicks' to engage? Condition of disks Warped disks (brake judder) ABS – Should be included on all VR6 and 2.0 16V's (should also have traction control as well). Some later G60's had ABS. It was also an option on the other models as well. There should be an orange ABS light in the dash to the left of the driver (It has been known for cars with faulty ABS for the warning light to just be removed!! Start the car with your foot on the brake pedal – you should feel a pulse and the light should go out. If the light is permanently on, it could mean: ABS sensors might need cleaning ABS sensors might need replacing Brake fluid level is low ABS control unit might need replacing Brake pedal sensor might need replacing In general, if the light is on and it isn't one of the top 3 faults above, it could be an expensive thing to fix. An abs light that refuses to go out may also be due to a faulty ignition switch, or, heaven forbid, a faulty abs pump (expect to pay £750 for a reconditioned one - a new one is over a grand from the stealers) Check for seized rear brake calipers as this is a common fault (although easily rectified) Hope this helps :thumbleft:

No worries :thumbleft:

Yeah the NGK plugs have a solid rear tip on the plug which can't unscrew. May be you can get some though that have the unscrewed rear tip , you might be able to get some Bosch plugs but they won't have the 4 electrodes, I think they'll just have 2 or 3 on each plugs.

Hello mate, yeah it does sound like the idle control valve is playing up, these tend to give up the ghost when there old and can have heat damage from being too near the cylinder head for 80.000 miles or more, which can course the inner valve to become stuck open or closed, which in turn will course cutting out or erratic idling. You can clean out the inside of the ilde control valve but it may only last a wile before it's coursing the idle problem again. Best bet is to replace with new, I think they are around the £50.00 mark ? Have you checked to see / hear if the fuel pump is working when ever your VR6 doesn't start up ? (There should be a light buzz from under the car as soon as you turn the ignition on the fuel pump should prime the system up ready, this you should hear) Have you got an alarm / immobilizer ? Not so much the alarm but the immobilizer normally cuts power to the starter motor, fuel pump, and on some the ignition coil pack as well, and is armed / disarmed by the alarm key fob. If you've got a after market security system which has been on the car for some years the alarm control unit can sometimes burn out, on the circuit to the fuel relay or ignition coil pack which can course the car not to start sometimes or not start at all. I had this on my Corrado where it would start up some days then it wouldn't, on the days when it didn't start I tried to hear for the buzz from the fuel pump but heard no noise, I found the alarm control unit under the dash drivers side, and traced it's wiring to the fuel relay, tested it for power and there was none, so cut the wiring out and connected it back up to the relay as it was before the alarm was fitted and the car started up fine. I'm not saying this is the fault on yours but don't rule it out. You mentioned the crank sendor these work off the crack shaft pulley or flywheel it's self, the crank sendor is like the ABS speed sensor it measurers / pulsates off a set of teeth so it's able to communicate with the ECU, and tell the spark plugs / HT leads when to fire, if the crank sendor is not working at all then your car WILL NOT START. But you said you've got no fault codes stored in the ECU memory as you say you've carried out a scan, so not sure. I know on some vehicles when the crank sendor is on the blink they can course the rev counter needle to move slightly, when you turn the ignition on and so don't store a fault code. Coolant temp switch can play up but your car should still start up though and it would run rough. Check the main wirring loom as you could have a broken wire some where, what I mean is wiggle the loom around in case it courses the car to cut out, mainly the loom in the engine bay. I hope this helps, hope you get her running spot on again :salute: Si :thumbleft:

No sorry mate, the only other thing you could try is to get the newer style cluster and the speedo sensor, out of a later gearbox and adapt them to fit, it might just work at least then you wouldn't need a speedo cable ever again :idea: You may need though some of the wirring loom off a later Corrado, say 1993 onwards. :thumbleft:

I'd do the basic things first mate like check the ignition timing and valve timing, from there I'd replace the distributor cap and rotor arm as they are only a few quid to buy. You can have a hair line fracture in the distributor cap & on the rotor arm even if they do look like they are in good condition, they can still be at fault. If your Corrado is over fueling you'll be able to smell the fuel (it will stink of petral plus the spark plugs will be soaking wet if you check them) If it is under fueling it will pop and bang out the back of the exhaust, similar to having the ignition timing out. I had what you are talking about on a mercedes some years back with the similar injection system as what's on the 16v Corrado, the fuel metering head unit had packed up, i,e the air flow meter, and it had the similar simptoms to what you have now, that the engine would only rev up at soft throttle & at full throttle it would die. I traced a decent second hand metering head unit as a new one is over £500.00 and this did the trick for me :cheers: The only over thing I've had is a complete short in the ECU which kept on blowing the air flow meter, so replaced the ECU and this fixed the fault on my mates car years ago. I hope you get it sorted mate :thumbleft:

Yeah I used to get people coming up like that when I had my old MK2 scirocco back in the late 90s, still get it now from time to time with my Corrado 16 valver :sunny: ---------- Post added at 12:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:30 AM ---------- Yeah I used to get people coming up like that when I had my old MK2 scirocco back in the late 90s, still get it now from time to time with my Corrado 16 valver :sunny:

No way really :shock:

No worries dude :D Hope you get your brakes sorted :thumbleft:

Yeah I've seen a few around, there's a really nice early 16 valver going around in Bournemouth in dark blue lowered with BBS wheels, lush car :shock: I'm tempted to put BBS on mine, not sure :shrug:

There you go mate these pictures show you most of the workings in the rear calipers. Si :thumbleft:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72443[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72444[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72445[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72446[/ATTACH] Right just tried it again.

Yeah next time you guys have a meet post it dude, and I'll try and make it :thumbleft: Cool photo's

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72429[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72430[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72431[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72432[/ATTACH] Hello Chris, I've just attached a few pictures for your attention regarding the rear brakes. Chris the rear brakes on the Corrado's are about the same as the MK2 Golf / Passat, I think some of the later Corrado's may have the MK3 Golf brakes. The rear caliper piston these normally unscrew outward when removing them, you do this by using the caliper removing tool, if you look at the outer head of the piston you will see two or four rounded slots, well the caliper removing tool has some raised studs on the face of a disc, and this disc fits over the front outer edge of the piston so you'll be able to remove or install the piston. You can remove the piston by operating the handbrake lever but you should really use the caliper removal tool. The rear brake caliper piston moves on a central shaft with a spiral like thread, so if you don't have this tool it could be a bit of a swine to unscrew it. You have to use this tool when ever you replace the rear brake pads, so as to adjust the piston. Remember to use copper grease on the back plate on the pads and runners, and EP grease on the caliper guides. The tool if you need one can be purchased off Ebay or Amazon for around £20.00 Unlike the front brakes these just have a piston that slides in & out and is very easy to remove & install. THE DUST BOOT SEAL All calipers have a dust boot seal that stop water, dirt, brake dust from entering in to the cylinder, and getting between the piston & cylinder. This dust boot fits in to a ridge in the outer edge of the caliper cylinder wall, and is held in place by a circlip, this circlip can be removed & installed by using a small flat headed long stem screw driver, once the circlip is removed the dust boot seal will then come out, followed by the piston. INNER SEAL The inner piston seal you remove these by using a very small flat headed long stem screw driver, these seals fit in to a ridge in the inner cylinder wall of the caliper, but be very careful because if you scratch / scrape deeply in to the cylinder wall it can course a poor seal surface between the cylinder wall & the piston, if this happens you can use fine sand paper to smooth the caliper cylinder wall, but it only really works when the scratch is shallow if it's deep then it could be a git to smooth out. Never reuse a piston if it's pitted badly around the lower to mid surface edges where it slides in the caliper, as it may not seal and could be dangerous, :shocked!: and the same goes for the calipers if the cylinder wall is badly pitted and won't smooth out using fine sand paper, throw it out and get a replacement caliper, it's just not worth taking the risk :nurse: Always use the correct brake piston caliper grease this is normally red or orange in colour, this grease is silicone based & heat resistant plus keeps moisture out and helps to keep the inner seal in place. NEVER USE EP grease which you use on bearings as this is too oily and piston won't slide as well. Chris I believe you can remove the handbrake lever on the rear brake caliper, but you need to get the overhaul kit that has all the new seals and bits with in that kit. This can be a bit of a fiddly job. Chris I'm not sure about the plastic stopper I don't think you can buy them separately. I hope this helps, good luck mate :salute: Cheers Si :thumbleft:

Oh my god it's the land of the gimp shakers :crazyeyes: what the :shrug: that is one mad video :shocked!:

Lush cars dudes :notworthy:

No worries mate anytime. Si :thumbleft:

Yeah I would say the switch is ok if you can hear the control unit clicking with the switch pressed & tried in both positions. Have you checked to see if you have power to the window regulator it's self ? If you have try tapping with a hammer lightly on the window motor in case it's sticking in the up position which they do now & again. On the drivers window switch you've got one main power sourse and an earth, and then I think there are several earth returns to the window control unit and the passenger window switch. Have you got a power probe if not I would get one as they are great at finding electrical faults, the power probe has two LEDs red & green (red shows active power) and the (green shows active earth) it connects straight on to your car battery and you'll be able to power things up and test for power and earths, you'll be able to trace faults alot quicker. You can use a multi meter but these aren't always as good, there good for testing for continuity, and resistance and showing if you have a drain somewhere. I might have a wirring diagram to help may be, I'll have a look. :scratch:

Hello there, I had this problem on my Corrado as well the passenger window would only open some times plus it was creaking when going up & down, the creaking noise was from the cable as it was wearing through the cable guide and fraying, the cable guide has a nylon inner linning and once the cable wears through that it'll be metal on metal, the cable is similar to that on a mountain bike which can fray and snap. :( I knew I had to purchase a new window regulator unit and because you can no longer buy the motor or regulator separately, I would have to obtain the complete unit which was around £300.00 from VW main dealer complete with the 3 stainless steel rivets. But before buying the unit I thought I would just check the wirring as the window didn't always work, the fault I found was with the drivers side window switch i.e (the governor switch) one of the wires had come out of place but not right out and so was coursing a intermittent fault i.e (window only working some times) all the wires in the connecting blocks are of a female spade type and are held in place with in these connecting blacks by two raised spike arms, which are on each side of each female spade wire, a bit like a arrow head, so just had to adjust the spike arms out ward a bit more and push the wire back in, which when done you should hear a click as the wire spade head clips back in place. I've since replaced the whole passenger window regulator as stated above as the cable was warn, and this window now works perfectly. :dance: When pressing the electric window switch if the window doesn't work but you can hear the electric window control unit clicking, then chances are the control unit is ok and the fault is with in the wirring from switch to regulator somewhere, or the wondow motor has burn out or seized up. Check to make sure you have continuity through the wires where they go through the door hinge area, and make sure the wirring in the bottom of the door is clipped in correctly in the plastic clips, as the wirring down here is for the window regulator and the door locking motor, if the wirring isn't clipped in correctly then it can catch and rub on the window glass as it moves up and down, and if the wires wear through they can short out on the inside of the door coursing a similar fault. It might also be a good idea to check that all the wires are in correctly in the electric window control unit connector plug, what I mean is make sure the wires are in nice and tight i.e (held in place with in these connecting blacks by two raised spike arms, which are on each side of each female spade wire, a bit like a arrow head) I hope this helps, :salute: Cheers Si :thumbleft:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72388[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]72389[/ATTACH] Hello mate, please see attached pictures for detail reference. Right I've just heard / seen your video clip and I'd say it's 100% the exhaust that is blowing, I'd say it's coming from the exhaust manifold area as that's the sound you get when there blowing, plus have the exhaust down pipe flexi joint checked as these can blow as well and you get a similar noise from them when there gone. The down pipe flexi joint is designed to move & flex same as the engine / gear box do which are bolted directly to the front subframe, via mountings these engine mountings do move and flex as well, so when you use soft throttle you may not hear much of a noise, but when you apply hard / full throttle the whole running gear i.e (engine & gear box) will lift and tilt slightly which in turn will move the down pipe flexi joint and open up the split / crack more that is in the flexi joint coursing the exhaust blow to be much loader. This also applies to the running gear mountings which could be the knocking noise you have as well when you throttle off & on or change gear. I'd get your gear box mounting replaced and get the exhaust manifold gaskets replaced (these are the gaskets between the manifold & cylinder head) Plus at the same time replace the exhaust down pipe gasket (this is the gasket between the down pipe & exhaust manifold, then you should be all sorted then. Oh yeah before I forget only use genuine gaskets as they are much thicker they are better made, as most of the none genuine ones are thinnner and don't last very long at all. PLEASE NOTE: there are TWO manifold gaskets on the VR6, unlike the G60 & 16 valvers they only have the one between the manifold & cylinder head. Cheers. Si :D

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72388[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]72389[/ATTACH] Hello mate, please see attached pictures for detail reference. Right I've just heard / seen your video clip and I'd say it's 100% the exhaust that is blowing, I'd say it's coming from the exhaust manifold area as that's the sound you get when there blowing, plus have the exhaust down pipe flexi joint checked as these can blow as well and you get a similar noise from them when there gone. The down pipe flexi joint is designed to move & flex same as the engine / gear box do which are bolted directly to the front subframe, via mountings these engine mountings do move and flex as well, so when you use soft throttle you may not hear much of a noise, but when you apply hard / full throttle the whole running gear i.e (engine & gear box) will lift and tilt slightly which in turn will move the down pipe flexi joint and open up the split / crack more that is in the flexi joint coursing the exhaust blow to be much loader. This also applies to the running gear mountings which could be the knocking noise you have as well when you throttle off & on or change gear. I'd get your gear box mounting replaced and get the exhaust manifold gaskets replaced (these are the gaskets between the manifold & cylinder head) Plus at the same time replace the exhaust down pipe gasket (this is the gasket between the down pipe & exhaust manifold, then you should be all sorted then. Oh yeah before I forget only use genuine gaskets as they are much thicker they are better made, as most of the none genuine ones are thinnner and don't last very long at all. PLEASE NOTE: there are TWO manifold gaskets on the VR6, unlike the G60 & 16 valvers they only have the one between the manifold & cylinder head. Cheers. Si :D

Hello there, courses of misfire are: spark plugs HT leads rotor arm distributor cap distributor it's self (there is a hall sensor in side the distributor, symptom is the vehicle won't be able to get above 50 ish when driving, or sometimes the engine won't rev up. ignition timing knock sensors (when these play up they can be similar to the hall sensor or you can just get a slight misfire) vacuum hoses (including brake servo hose as this is connected to the inlet manifold air leak from a inlet manifold (but this would have to be quite a bad leak though) fuel filter (mainly when it's old and hasn't been changed in ages and has become blocked) fuel pressure (when fuel pressure is low some cars won't start at all or some just have a very bad misfire) fuel injectors main fuel pump in tank secondary fuel pump under Corrado next to fuel filter. fuel accumulator again next to fuel filter (when these play up your car won't rev well when cold) but tend to be a little better once engine has warmed up air flow meter (can have symptom of engine not reving or on some cars they won't start up at all if the air flow meter is totally dead) fuel distributor (these are normally working or not working, but can be similar to air flow meter) coolant temp switch (when these are warn they course the ECU to dump loads of fuel via injecters, and can be a real git to start up even when the engine is warm. cold start injector (but this is governed by the coolant temp switch, but the cold start injector can play up) exhaust lamda senda (when these don't work the ECU goes in to safety mode and can dump loads of fuel in coursing a misfire) exhaust catalytic converter (these have a honey cone inside and can break up and lodge in the exhaust system) you may not even hear the damaged honey cone rattle around if it has lodged tightly. valve timimg (the timing belt has jumped a few teech, which it can on the 16v & 8v golf / corrado heads) which will course a misfire and engine my not like reving up. the cam belt tensioners on the 16v & 8v engines are well know for seizing up or becoming notchy, always replace the tensioner when you do the cam belt to be safe. Cam belt should be changed about every 70 to 80.000 miles or 5 years whichever accurs first, any longer on these engines and the tensioner or cam belt will let go. blown head gasket (this can have a misfire symptom but engine should still rev up though) cracked cylinder liner (same as above really) when a head gasket / cracked cylinder head / cracked cylinder liner, happens you usally get water in the engine oil, simptom is white deposits on dip stick, oil filler cap, or you can have oil / fuel deposits in the coolant this will show as a rainbow colour in the water, or you'll be able to smell oil / fuel in the coolant, another sign is the engine will run very hot or you can be losing water and there are no visable leaks anywhere, this is where the engine is burning the coolant. Or there can be excessive pressure in the coolant system where the hoses become rock hard, and in some cases can blow the coolant hoses off. When there are no visable signs of a head gasket blown you can have a block test carriered out, this is where they use a blue liquid which sniffes for oil / fuel / combustion fumes, when the blue liquid does so it will change colour from blue to yellow in no time at all. This test can be carriered out at a back street garage or main dealer. Just one more thing always use the black steel head gasket for the 16v golf / corrado heads, as it's a lot stronger than the cheaper ones, as the 16v engine has got quite high compression, I believe it's around 280 psi well I know it is on the 2.0 16v engine. And that goes for the exhaust manifold gaskets as well, always go for the genuine ones they are made so much better and will last for years. I hope this helps good luck mate, I hope you sort it. Cheers Si :thumbleft:

Hello there, courses of misfire are: spark plugs HT leads rotor arm distributor cap distributor it's self (there is a hall sensor in side the distributor, symptom is the vehicle won't be able to get above 50 ish when driving, or sometimes the engine won't rev up. ignition timing knock sensors (when these play up they can be similar to the hall sensor or you can just get a slight misfire) vacuum hoses (including brake servo hose as this is connected to the inlet manifold air leak from a inlet manifold (but this would have to be quite a bad leak though) fuel filter (mainly when it's old and hasn't been changed in ages and has become blocked) fuel pressure (when fuel pressure is low some cars won't start at all or some just have a very bad misfire) fuel injectors main fuel pump in tank secondary fuel pump under Corrado next to fuel filter. fuel accumulator again next to fuel filter (when these play up your car won't rev well when cold) but tend to be a little better once engine has warmed up air flow meter (can have symptom of engine not reving or on some cars they won't start up at all if the air flow meter is totally dead) fuel distributor (these are normally working or not working, but can be similar to air flow meter) coolant temp switch (when these are warn they course the ECU to dump loads of fuel via injecters, and can be a real git to start up even when the engine is warm. cold start injector (but this is governed by the coolant temp switch, but the cold start injector can play up) exhaust lamda senda (when these don't work the ECU goes in to safety mode and can dump loads of fuel in coursing a misfire) exhaust catalytic converter (these have a honey cone inside and can break up and lodge in the exhaust system) you may not even hear the damaged honey cone rattle around if it has lodged tightly. valve timimg (the timing belt has jumped a few teech, which it can on the 16v & 8v golf / corrado heads) which will course a misfire and engine my not like reving up. the cam belt tensioners on the 16v & 8v engines are well know for seizing up or becoming notchy, always replace the tensioner when you do the cam belt to be safe. Cam belt should be changed about every 70 to 80.000 miles or 5 years whichever accurs first, any longer on these engines and the tensioner or cam belt will let go. blown head gasket (this can have a misfire symptom but engine should still rev up though) cracked cylinder liner (same as above really) when a head gasket / cracked cylinder head / cracked cylinder liner, happens you usally get water in the engine oil, simptom is white deposits on dip stick, oil filler cap, or you can have oil / fuel deposits in the coolant this will show as a rainbow colour in the water, or you'll be able to smell oil / fuel in the coolant, another sign is the engine will run very hot or you can be losing water and there are no visable leaks anywhere, this is where the engine is burning the coolant. Or there can be excessive pressure in the coolant system where the hoses become rock hard, and in some cases can blow the coolant hoses off. When there are no visable signs of a head gasket blown you can have a block test carriered out, this is where they use a blue liquid which sniffes for oil / fuel / combustion fumes, when the blue liquid does so it will change colour from blue to yellow in no time at all. This test can be carriered out at a back street garage or main dealer. Just one more thing always use the black steel head gasket for the 16v golf / corrado heads, as it's a lot stronger than the cheaper ones, as the 16v engine has got quite high compression, I believe it's around 280 psi well I know it is on the 2.0 16v engine. And that goes for the exhaust manifold gaskets as well, always go for the genuine ones they are made so much better and will last for years. I hope this helps good luck mate, I hope you sort it. Cheers Si :thumbleft:

Hello there, sounds like you could have one or two hydraulic lifters worn, these can course the engine to misfire slightly if there worn enough, which then don't open the valve correctly and the noise they make when warn is like a clicking sound, or it could be the exhaust manifold / down pipe gasket worn, when these go you can hear a clicking / ticking noise, plus you'll be able to smell the exhaust fumes some times in the car. You don't really have a smell from an engine when it's pinking you just hear a clicking / ticking sound which means the timing is slightly advanced, this can be cured by retarding the timing by using a timing light, but only as long as the knock sensors are working correctly which I believe are fitted to the VR6 and 16 valvers. As KIPVW has said I'd 100% get the gear box mount replaced ASAP. The only other part I've had play up in the past is on the 16 valver Corrado which had a clicking sound now and again, which turned out to be a faulty throttle stepper motor switch, replaced that and the noise went for me. But yeah I would check the engine oil level in case it's low because this can course the hydraulic lifters to be noisey sometimes, plus the timing chain tensioner is oil fed and if the oil pressure is low which it can be when the oil level is quite low the timing chain may rattle ? Plus get the CO checked and have the ignition timing checked and adjusted if needed, it's well worth doing. I hope this helps, cheers Si :)