vw rule

No worries mate :) Si :thumbleft:

Oh cool yeah that's it mate you should be all sorted now. Si :thumbleft:

The supper charger is oil fed and so has oil seals in side it, so if these oil seals rupture then you'll get oil in to the inter cooler, plus when oil delivery is reduced to the inner working of the G-charger i.e the bearings as well, it can over heat or seiz as there is a very small tollerence in the clearances between the inner workings, (meaning the G-charger will smash to bits in side) even though the ribbed power belt is ok. So you really need to check the air intake for signs of oil. Plus has the supper charger got the standard pulley on it, as a lot of people put on a smaller sized pulley to make the G-Charger spin faster to try and gain more B H P (Brake Horse Power) which can give the supper charger a shorter life as it's having to work harder. Standard G60 B H P is 158 to 160 ish with standard pulley, with smaller pulley you can have power gains up to 200 to 220 ish B H P. Si :thumbleft:

Yeah it looks like quite a nice one, it may well sell for £950.00 or £1200.00 I'd give it a test drive as well though just before purchasing it just in case, I'm sure it would be ok though. Anyone wanting there first Corrado or a Corrado project then go for it. There is just one thing though, the advert states that it's a 2.0 16v, well all the 2.0 16v normally have chrome 16 valve badges on the front grill and on the back below the Corrado badge, this Corrado in the advert has the red 16 valve badges which is the 1.8 16v engine normally. I could be wrong it could well be a very very early 2.0 16v G60 Corrado 1988 to 1992 1.8 16v Corrado 1989 to 1992 2.0 16v Corrado 1992 to 1996 VR6 Corrado 1992 to 1996 2.0 8V Corrado 1995 to 1996 Si :thumbleft:

Yeah that's right mate, that's the vacuum hose you need, 3.5mm should be ok and if it's got a wall thickness of 2mm, then great :thumbleft: After you've fitted the new vacuum hose if you remove all the spark plugs and then crank her over to get rid of all the moisture in the cylinders, then refit your spark plugs and try starting her again, you never know it might work :) (Remember that you might have to disconect the coil pack connector plug as you don't want the HT leads to be firing, when you crank her over with the spark plugs removed, AS THERE COULD BE FUEL VAPOR COMING OUT THE CYLINDERS) If you need any more help, then just give me a shout. Si :thumbleft:

The fuel pressure regulators have been known to be stuck open and so can let more fuel through than is needed. But yeah if the vacuum hose was split then yes you would lose fuel pressure (hence car not starting) You say your car is over fueling then it could be something different. But if you read the other sections of this thread I've already listed the possible courses: Spark plugs not firing. Coolant temp switch not working (faulty switch or no power to switch) Cam shaft position switch not working (faulty switch or no power to switch) Lambda sensor not working (but your car should really still start up) Fault with in ECU it's self (meaning it's just poring fuel in) No compression in cylinders (meaning the air & fuel mixture won't be compressed and car won't start) You need to do your self a list of items to check / replace, then tick them off one by one, so that your not going in circles. I take it your battery is ok, because even though your car cranks over, if the battery is low then your car my not start as the electrics need as certain amount of power. I think your going to have to start changing bits over. The only other thing with your VR6, is it a manual or auto gearbox ?? It's just that with the auto boxes they normally only start up with the gear shift stick in the park position, as the gear stick has to press against a switch, but yours cranks over doesn't it. This is hard for me as I'm not there looking at the car so I'm not able to hear / see / smell things. I hope you get her going as the VR6 is a great car. Si :thumbleft:

You've normally got four positions on the ignition switch, 0) ignition switched off (everything is off now (accept for the radio and ECU plus clock memory) 1) is the auxiliary (powers the radio with ignition off) 2) is ignition switched on (everything has power now) 3) is the cranking position (supplies power to the starter so to start vehicle) Lights on the Corrado or any vehicle may flicker if there on as the starter motor is quite a large drain on the electrical system i.e battery, same for the radio it may flick off for a second when cranking over the engine until it starts up, then the ignition switch goes back to position 2 What I'm saying is you should be able to get power from the auxiliary wire from the ignition switch, then you should be all sorted. Or you could get power directly from the fuse box i.e the main battery feed. You say the satnav turns off when you crank the engine, why not just start the car up and then turn on your satnav, job done. Hope this helps Si :thumbleft:

You could try and purchase a new wiring loom as most of them are still available at WV main dealers, I bought a new loom for my Corrado, the head light switch loom as the wires had burnt due to a short, it cost me around £80.00 for the new loom from VW. But yeah I'd say your best bet is to get a second hand loom or connector plug and do it that way as Jim has said, a lot of the wiring looms are on Ebay. Si :thumbleft:

Hello mate sorry to hear you fell down the stairs. Oh I see are you practicing then for the long jump :bonk: I think you can get vacuum hose that is oil & fuel resistant, but to be honest you should be ok with ordinary vacuum hose, if you take the old vacuum hose with you say to Motorbitz or Halfords you should be able to match it up & purchase some from there, if not may be off Ebay or you could try your local back street garage i.e vehicle repair shop. New vacuum hose should only be £3.50 to £12.00 tops, you might have to buy it in half meter or one meter lengths ? The cost might be a little higher if you purchase some off Ebay or Amazon as you may well have to pay for carriage as well ? I think the diameter of the vacuum hose you need is around 3.5mm (that's the ID = inner diameter) Take it easy mate, hope you get her going soon. Si :thumbleft:

Yeah that vacuum hose really needs replacing it's seen better days by the looks of it, if you say you can smell fuel in that old vacuum hose then the fuel regulator might be weak. I'd replace the vacuum hose with a new one and try starting the car again. After that if she still doesn't want to start then your going to have to start changing parts over, may be starting with the fuel regulator ? The fuel regulator keeps the fuel system pressurised in the return fuel line back to the fuel tank, so after cranking the engine over you should really have pressure in the fuel lines, like I say if you remove the feed fuel line it should spray out for a few seconds, and that goes for the return fuel line as well. But you'll have to crank the engine over twice, once to check the fuel feed line, and then again to check the return line both should be on or around the fuel rail. (because when you remove a fuel line the pressure drops and so you need to crank over the engine again to build the pressure back up) Hope this helps mate. Si :thumbleft:

No worries dude the more info the better :D

Hello there, I've got 17" rims on my Corrado. Tyres are 205/40 R17 95v I just wacked on some budget tyres as they were only about £40.00 a tyre, plus there of a medium compound and so won't wear out too quickly these were Wanglee's, bought them from Tyreland about a year ago and still going strong now. Regarding tyres the 205 is the tyre width, 205/40 R17 95V the 40 is the profile the hight of the tyre wall, 205/40 R17 95V and the 17" is the size of the tyre 205/40 R17 95V plus the 95v is the speed rating 205/40 R17 95V So the lower profile tyre you fit the less movement and flex you'll have in the tyre when fitted to your rims. Pirelli tyres are normally soft and do wear out quite quickly, £86.00 Continental tyres are of a soft to medium compound, £110.00 Goodyear tyres are normally quite good £100.83 Yokohama tyres are made of butter will wear out in now time, £72.00 Firestone tyres these are good but are of a soft compound. £95.00 Autogrip tyres are like a budgit tyre medium compound £40.00 Event tyres again are a budgit tyre £39.25 Sunew tyres are quite cheap to buy and aren't bad £39.17 All are plus VAT as well Hope this helps mate.

Yes it would contribute to the exhaust blow / noise you have, but only if that mount was able to pull apart and move so much that it was coursing stress on the exhaust it's self, when you throttle off and on or change gear. Yes these mountings can be filled with oil or they can just be solid rubber that brakes up. At the top of the mounting you will see the large thick steel washer plate with a female thread in the centre of it, what can happen is where this female thread goes down in to like a cup and is bonded to the rubber with in the mount, this cup can lift up out of the mounting coursing movement and knocking, so even though the engine or gearbox alloy bracket mount is bolted down to the mounting the whole thing can lift up, or if the oil has leaked out of the mounting then again it can course knocking and the mounting no longer has the support, of the oil with in it which will course knocking. When you have the gearbox mount replaced with a new one, I suspect that you'll still be able to hear the exhaust blow. The video clip that you put on hear was of a exhaust blow and of a slight knocking noise, the knocking noise was possibly this gearbox mount and the other noise I believe to be the exhaust blowing, I've only heard the noise from in side your VR6 when you were driving down the road in the video clip, but I'd say it's 100% blowing. I would imagine that you need to replace your exhaust manifold or gaskets or your down pipe or gasket, to rid your self of the exhaust blow noise you have from your VR6. When the exhaust has gone and is blowing you normally lose fuel economy and back pressure and can some times smell the exhaust fumes in side the car, what you can do is start up your VR6 and put your hand down near the exhaust manifold area and down pipe area, (but only from when the engine is cold and only for about 10 minutes) and you should be able to hear and feel the exhaust gases escaping as you throttle on & off, (you might want someone to sit in the car to operate the throttle for you) I hope this helps mate Si :thumbleft:

Hello mate, right ok the plugs will only get wet if the spark is weak or you have too much fuel delivery. The coolant temp switch tells the ECU how much fuel to pump in when the engine is cold, and once the engine is warm the temp switch should tell the ECU then to reduce the fuel mixture. This you've already replaced, but still have a good look at the connector plug and wiring. The only other sensor that can course this symptom as well is the lambda sensor (also known as the oxygen sensor) this measurers the exhaust waste mixture just before it enters the catalytic converter, and if it detects too much fuel deposits with in the exhaust waste gas it should then tell the ECU to reduce the fuel mixture, due to the extreme heat in the exhaust these lambda sensors can become heat damaged over time, and give false readings or in some cases they can short out and the sensor end tip that's in the exhaust can melt or drop off, coursing the ECU to dump loads of fuel in to the cylinders via injectors as it can't measure the exhaust waste gas anymore. You normally get a engine light which is coloured orange come on when these lambda sensors fail. Which can course the car not to start at all or if it does it will have a slight misfire and be a little under power. What you need to do is to check and make sure there are 4 wirers still connected to the lambda sensor it's self, plus also check that the connector plug is still plugged in together, this lambda sensor plug / wiring is normally down the back of the engine near to the rear engine mount drivers side, the wire then goes up behind the large heat shield to protect if from the heat of the 6 port exhaust manifold, so you may have to get behind the heat shield slightly to check it. Also you may want to get your Corrado up in the air, i.e jack it up on to some axle stands, so you can have a look at the lambda sensor, and have a wiggle of the exhaust catalytic converter, as there is a honey cone mesh like filter inside and some times these break away from there fixings, and then are able to float around which will rattle and some times can lodge in the exhaust coursing the car not to rev up, or on some rare occasions they won't let the car star up. The lambda sensor you can test these with a multi meter, you need to set your meter to ohms say about 200 ohms and check across the two white wires at the lambda sensor plug (have it unplugged) you should have a reading of around 1 to 8 ohms, if you have nothing then the lambda senor has burnt out. Also check you have power to the lambda sensor. Similar ohms test can be carried out on the coolant temp switch, if you unplug the coolant temp switch plug and connect up the multimeter to the temp switch then you can test the resistance, the resistance should be high as the coolant in the Corrado is cold as it won't start up. You simply connect the black multimeter cable to an earth on the car somewhere like a bolt, or something metal on the engine earthed to the body of the car, then connect the red multimeter cable to the contact on the coolant temp switch, remember to have the coolant temp switch unplugged. (resistance should drop down when a sensor can read a hot temperature and be a bit higher when the temperature is cold) The ohms should be around 200 or more if you get no reading or it's not up to 200 ohms then the sensor could be duff, Also check you have power to the coolant temp switch and an earth from the loom as this would course it not to work. If you say you've only checked the one spark plug, and it had quite a good spark, then I would say that the crank sensor is working ok, but you need to really check the rest of the plugs just in case it is something as simple as a few plugs gone down. One or two spark plugs not working in a VR6 and it should still start up but it would be missing and spluttering a lot, but if you have got 4 or 5 plugs not working then she WOULDN'T START UP AT ALL, but you may still hear her just trying to start, just ? You could try a new or decent second hand coil pack ? But like I say you've got to check all the spark plugs and HT leads to totally rule out the coil pack issue. You could try a decent second hand fuel pressure regulator ? When you remove the vacuum hose if there is no sign of fuel in it, and you remove the fuel feed hose as mentioned above to check the pressure, then chances are the fuel regulator will be ok. Just bare in mind that the inner diaphragm can still be ripped or pitted and no fuel will enter in to vacuum hose. Fuel in the vacuum hose is normally the first sign that the fuel regulator is going to fail. The other thing is the air flow meter. You can test these as well with a multimeter, again set the meter to ohms and test across the terminals, you should have a reading of 1 or 0 ( one or zero) ohms, if you don't then the air flow meter is duff. Or switch the ignition on and set the multimeter to volts, (never turn on ignition when testing ohms only for volts) and connect up the red and black multimeter leads to the air flow meter connector (wiring loom must be plugged in to air flow meter for this) You may have to remove the air filter and the plastic air in take hose, (this is the plastic hose from the air filter box to the throttle body as it houses the air flow meter) With the plastic air intake hose disconnected and the air flow meter plug still connected, and with the multimeter connected to the air flow meter sensor if you blow in to the hose on the airflow meter, you should see the volts reading change on the multimeter if it does not then this confirms that the air flow meter is dead. There might be a cam shaft position sensor and when these play up the car sometimes will not start, I can't remember if there is one on the VR6, there might be ? These sensors normally tell the injectors when to fire and so if it was faulty could course a none starting issue. I believe you can set your multimeter to volts and with the ignition on you should have around 5 to 6 volts, at the cam shaft position sensor with the loom plug still attached. Now if you get someone to crank over the engine you should see the volts change between 0.5 volts up to 1.5 volts, if it's not then the sensor could be dead. I hope this helps dude. I can't really think of anything else :scratch: You could have it towed to a garage to have it put on to a diagnostic scanner, but most scanners really need the car to be running for the scanner to be able to go through the ECU correctly, unless they've got one of the more expensive ones where it's able to see the stored fault codes in the ECU memory chip. I hope you get her running soon. Si :thumbleft:

Hello there, I believe the G60, 16 valvers and 8 valver Corrado's hold 6.5 liters of coolant. The VR6 holds 6.5 to 6.7 liters of coolant. You should really have between 2-1/2 to 3 liters of antifreeze and then the rest to be plain water, to make up the full 6.5 ish liters, if you have a too high mix content of antifreeze i.e if it's too rich then the car could over heat plus may not protect against freezing weather. You should always dilute the antifreeze so it works correctly with in the cooling system. The average mix of antifreeze in summer or winter is around 2.7 liters to 3 liters of antifreeze by 3.3 to 3 liters of water in a VR6 Corrado, anymore then that, like I say it would be too high and wouldn't be safe :nono: Remember that antifreeze also protects against corrosion and so will make your core plugs and engine last longer, might even be a good idea to replace your thermostat at the same time, and check the water pump for leaks, as again these could be replaced if your changing the coolant anyway :D Also I believe there are two water pumps on the VR6 the belt driven one plus the electric auxiliary one as well. On the earlier Corrado's the heater matrix is prone to leaking. Remember to check that your radiator cooling fan cuts in at the right temp, when you are bleeding the cooling system and running the car up to temp. Hope this helps Si :thumbleft:

Right ok mate the later coil pack then confirmed :salute: Have you tried cranking the engine over with your foot full down on the throttle pedal, and then with your foot completly off the pedal ? (with the pedal down you should here more of a drown noise from the engine as it's cranking, this means you have good compression, if there is now noise difference then there could be a problem) If you have got 100% a spark and fuel then you should be able to start the car by pumping the throttle pedal as you crank it over, to get your VR6 started. Have you completly checked for a spark from all 6 HT leads ? Have you checked all 6 spark plugs ? Have you taken off the fuel feed pipe where it goes to the fuel rail ? (should be fuel pressure here, as soon as you take that feed pipe off it should pray out for a few seconds, if it does pray then you've got half decent pressure, if it doesn't pray then it could be the fuel regulator has failed ? I take it you can smell fuel after you've been cracking your VR6 over ?? Please let me know what you have checked so I can help you more. Si :thumbleft:

Oh cool, make sure you replace the steering rack retaining clamps as they corrode some times, and regrease the shoulder on the bolts with EP grease and use thread / lock tight on the threads of the bolts as it keeps dirt & moisture out, and there will be less chance of them working loose. This will make it a lot easier to undo next time. Si :thumbleft:

Might be some on Ebay look at item number 130856603259 There contact number is: 07985 143401 Based in Derby Hope this helps Si :thumbleft:

Hello mate yes that is the correct bush for the VR6 as they have a 19mm front anti roll bar, the G60, 16 valvers and the 8 valver Corrado's have a 17 to 18mm front anti roll bar. The only one question I will ask is have you lowered the car at all, as the standard bushes aren't as good when they have more pressure put on them from lowered suspension. You can obtain heavy duty bushes if you require them in the future, I replaced mine with SuperPro Polyurethane bushes which are harder and can take the extra pressure, from having the car suspension lowered. The company I bought them from was C&R Enterprises Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

I believe the very early Corrado VR6 had a coil pack and distributor, which of course had a distributor cap and rotor arm fitted, this was from 1992 to around late 1993 (I have seen a very early 1994 VR6 Corrado with a distributor - but these are rare) The coil pack on this VR6 has just the one HT lead (the king lead) going to the distributor cap, which then powers all the 6 HT leads from the distributor cap, to the spark plugs. The distributor cap is fitted to the distributor it's self by two curved clips, these clips are fixed permanently to the distributor via hinges and clip over the side of the distributor cap to retain it in place, you simply just flick off the clips off the cap using a small to medium size screw driver, them remove the cap and you'll see the rotor arm in side. Normally the rotor arm and the distributor cap contacts bur up which affects the power of the spark (this should be checked on a service) All the later Corrado's mainly from late 1993 or early 1994 up to 1996 didn't have the distributor or the coil pack with just the King HT lead powering the distributor cap, they changed to a larger more powerful coil pack which powered all the 6 HT leads directly to the spark plugs. So if you've got the early type engine you'll be able to check the distributor cap, if not then you'll just have the more powerful coil pack on it's own. Don't forget that the crank sensor tells the coil pack when to fire so if you have no spark, check this sensor for cracks. Most or all sensors are magnetic as they pulsate off a metal toothed ring and so can have small metal filings sticking to them, which can make contact between the sensor and the metal toothed ring coursing it not to work correctly. There are really two main reasons why a petrol vehicle won't start: NO SPARK NO FUEL Or if you've got too much fuel going in to the engine this wil course the car not to start, it might be worth checking the fuel pressure regulator, when these go wrong they can course the car to : NOT TO START UP A MISFIRE (poping slightly out the exhaust) BLACK SMOKE OUT THE EXHAUST ( which means it's running far too rich) FUEL IN THE VACUUM HOSE (this means the inner seal /daiphragm is leaking fuel, when the engine is switched off, if you remove the regulator vacuum hose and you find fuel in there then replace the regulator, as this vacuum hose should always be dry. Check your engine oil level and coolant level, most VR6 engines do use more oil than the 16 valvers as the pistons are at a 15 degree angel, like most V6 or V8 engines they mostly do burn more oil than a straight 4 or straight 6 engine. The only other thing that could course the engine not to fire up is very low compression, but it would have to be really low though, petrol cars that have low compression say around 50 to 70 PSI should still start up but will misfire. Good compression on a petrol engine should really be between 150 and 250 PSI I hope this helps Si :thumbleft:

Are you getting a bit of black smoke out the exhaust like it's over fueling, if you are then switch the engine off and remove the vacuum hose that's on the fuel regulator, when you remove this vacuum hose no fuel should come out, if it does then that's a sign that the fuel regulator is on the blink. It would mean that the inner seal / diaphragm has gone or is going. This can affect the fuel pressure i.e coursing rough running. Si :thumbleft:

Yes it would but you still need to check all of the spark plugs in turn, if you have no spark at all or if it's very weak then the plugs will be dripping wet with fuel (hence vehicle not starting) Have you checked all the plugs ?? You say you've spotted a crack in the coil pack, this crack is it in the insulation at the top where the HT leads plug in to ? Some coil packs fail when cracked but some still work as normal. I take it you've already checked the distributor cap and rotor arm for damp or for any wear as this will course similar simptoms. I would check these just before the purchase a new coil pack. One thing you can do just to make sure, is to disconnect the main feed coil plug so that the coil pack won't fire, remove all the spark plugs and then get someone to crank her over and see if fuel if poring in to the cylinders if it is then the ECU has blown, if there is just a fine pray mist in the cylinder and the top face of the piston is slightly damp then it is firing ok out of the injectors. The spark plugs when fitted in to the cylinder head complete the earth circuit, (they earth through the head and have live power running through them via HT leads) and so if you have a weak or no earth to the engine block or head then the plugs won't fire. I believe you said that you've already changed the coolant temp switch and there was no difference, so I'd say the fault lies with in the ignition system. One thing though if and when you replace the coil pack, if there is no difference then I'd check the immobiliser, just to make sure it is disarming as some immobilisers do cut the power to the ignition coil pack but not fully, and so let it work but not enough to start the car (which will give you the symptom you have now) Hope this helps Si :thumbleft:

Have you tried a speedo cable repair kit ? there's one on Ebay, item number 200891465971 Or there's a new 1.3 MK2 Golf cable on Ebay, item number 310580235515 it might fit the Corrado my be ??? as the MK2 Golf and Corrado use similar parts. Si ---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 AM ---------- Oh my god I think I've just found one ? type in Google search this - EVWPARTS.COM Part N.o: 535957803 Price: $79.95 works out at about £53.00 plus carriage Shipping Weight: 1.00 pounds 2 items ready to ship. Additional items will take 1-2 days to ship. This cable is from the USA main land. Give them an email they could help their email is: [email protected] or their Customer Service phone is 410 544-0671 These guys are based in the USA. Hope this helps dude. Si :thumbleft:

Have a look on Ebay this is the item number 260702620389 Various idle control valves for Corrado VR6 all new ranging from £30.00 up to £70.00 I thought you could get one for around £50.00 ish, have a look mate Si :thumbleft:

Yeah looks like a nice example, one of the last ones as well. But be careful as it's a trader sale, I'm not saying it has but it could have been clocked, as these Corrado's were the Audi TT of the 1990s The steering wheel is a bit shiny and the drivers seat has a little wear on the raised shoulder lips around the leg & back side support area, the seats tend to sink down in these areas on high mileage vehicles, there's bound to be some wear as it's done 55,000 miles. If you go and look at it look down at the lower outer sill lips these should be smooth and be painted same colour as the car, if you see any like vice grip patterns at the front under the door just behind the wing, and at the back under the rear wheel arch where it joins to the side panel on the sill lips, then it could have been put on to a jig to straighten the car after a impact i.e crash. Also check the A pillars as these should feel smooth and be straight, if you feel any bumps / lumps then the car could have been in a crash in it's past. Check as well for any scratch marks on the interior trim where it's screwed to the doors or body work and the instrument cluster as well (signs of repair or clocking) When you check the history look at the old MOT certificates, these were always had written with a water mark in the centre of the certificate, if there is no water mark on the certificate chances are it's fake, this type of hand written certificate was used right up until around 2003 / 2004 The later MOT certificates are A4 size as the MOT today is computer logged. This may cost you £30.00 or £45.00 but it is worth doing, get a HPI check carried out, this will show if the car has been: Stolen, written off, outstanding finance on it, plus they may show some light on the 55,000 miles This is the info from the add below: 1995 (M reg) Coupe 55,000 miles Manual 2.0L Petrol 3 Doors, Manual, Coupe, Petrol, 55,000 miles, Metallic Blue, MOT-02-2014, 2 Owners. PROBABLY THE UKs BEST PRESENTED CARS, Alloy wheels, Active Rear Spoiler, Sports seats, Sunroof, Electric mirrors, Electric windows, Remote central locking, Sports Steering Wheel, Power assisted steering, Anti theft system, Alarm, Foglights, Head restraints, Radio, Tinted glass, 2 Keys, Recent Cam Belt, """FULL SERVICE HISTORY""". Insurance Group:17, GENUINE P/X VEHICLE, THIS VW CORRADO 2.0 16V COUPE CAN ONLY BE DESCRIBED AS SHOWROOM CONDITION, IT HAS COVERED ONLY 55,000 MILES FROM NEW, JUST 2 PRIVATE OWNERS, THE SERVICE HISTORY IS FULL AND COMPLETE WITH NO LESS THAN 10 SERVICE STAMPS IN BOOK 5,685, 10,878, 17,652, 24,489, 29,879, 35,686, 37,032, 40,671 INC CAM BELT, AND 47,094. BRAND NEW MOT WITH NO ADVISORYS. THIS CAR IS MINT MINT MINT., (T) AUTOCHOICE Tel: 01179 778844. £3,949 p/x welcome Hope this helps Si :thumbleft: