Dax Rush Cosworth

[rolex 0]

any updates scruffythefirst ?

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Not a lot really. Been caning the arse out of it and I fitted a new gearnob made out of solid stainless. There has been a loud top end ticking noise which was traced to a leaking turbo - fixed under warrenty by essex turbo's - top service. Also changed the hydraulic lifters which didn't make an difference but several of the studs holding the cams in stripped their threads in the head so had to helicoil them, fortunately it didn't involve taking the head off. Theres still a ticking noise so might have to change oil brands as its possbile thats causing it. Still haven't washed it or polished all the build scratches out.

 

Over the winter plans are for new vented front "wings", good clean and polish, make some doors and have a tonneau made and find someone who can bend 3" stainless pipe and make a new exhaust. Oh and a remap to take it to 280-300 bhp and the same torque. If emerald get the new software out I should then have dashboard switchable maps, full throttle shifting, mild antilag :D

[rolex 0]

Not a lot really. Been caning the arse out of it

good lad!!! :twisted:

 

 

 

 

find someone who can bend 3" stainless pipe and make a new exhaust.

 

i sort of know some one who builds an services these little beautys, (located in newmarket) do you want me to get there no.? hes a friend of a freind, but think he knows his stuff,

[Scruffythefirst 0]

sort of know some one who builds an services these little beautys, (located in newmarket) do you want me to get there no.? hes a friend of a freind, but think he knows his stuff,

 

 

If he's got a 3" mandrel bender then yes please :D

[rolex 0]

i'll ask, if he does tho i want a blast in this bad boy!! :D

 

 

btw, is that the correct term?(dont wanna look like a tw#t) :lol:)

[Louie Lungbubble 0]

Scruffythefirst, May be a bit far for you, but just rang a place in Liverpool we use for all our tube bending. One-offs ltd 0151 922 7171

They can do 75mm dia s/s, but wall thickness is an issue.

 

If they bend it, they can get the minimum radius down to approx 350mm, but the tube wall thickness would have to be about 4mm.

If they roll it, minimum radius is about 500mm but wall thickness can reduce down to about 2mm.

 

Might be worth bearing in mind mate.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

sort of know some one who builds an services these little beautys, (located in newmarket) do you want me to get there no.? hes a friend of a freind, but think he knows his stuff,

 

 

If he's got a 3" mandrel bender then yes please :D

 

And that's another yes please from me too!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Louie Lungbubble, cheers for that. I'm in the same boat.....

 

I need a very tight 90 degree coming off the V band, I think exhaust places call it a '1D section', which sounds like it's beyond the scope of mandrel bending :-( Still, there's a lot to be said for quality seam welding though!

[mrbeige 0]

You could try Fabricage in Harston on the A10 (I think)? They make roll cages, so I should think they've got means to bend 3" pipes

[rolex 0]

sort of know some one who builds an services these little beautys, (located in newmarket) do you want me to get there no.? hes a friend of a freind, but think he knows his stuff,

 

 

If he's got a 3" mandrel bender then yes please :D

 

And that's another yes please from me too!

 

 

bloody hell!!! i hope he has!!! for my sake!! you know the price a blast in the vrT :lol:

[Henny 0]

I always thought that mandrel bending tight turns actually restricted air flow more than cutting and welding sections of pipe to make the bend? :|

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Mandrel bends keep the diameter the same all the way through the bend, they don't squash the pipe (which increases the surface are to volume ratio) which improves flow and looks a dam sight better.

 

The old skool way of doing it is with acetalene and packing the tube full of sand.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Cool!

 

Yeah, Mandrelling is the strongest, neatest way to make a bent pipe.....but it's expensive and the bend angle is somewhat limited!

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Woohooo I can Heel n Toe again 8) I'm now on my 3rd itteration of the throttle pedal and spent all afternoon upside down with my head in the footwell and the seats digging into my back but it was worth it 8)

 

Just need to loose a big chunk of inertia from the engine now, wonder if i can afford a skeleton flywheel, 5 1/2 inch clutch, billet crank and rods? Bugger, thought not :oops:

[rolex 0]

Woohooo I can Heel n Toe again 8)

 

 

8) how an when is this done?

 

 

(i havn't forget bout 'mandrel' bit hard getting hold of him, few more days)

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Cool how an when is this done?

 

 

When you change down a gear during breaking the revs need to rise, to match the road speed in the lower gear. Normally as you bring the clutch up the synchro's act to accelerate the engine to the new revs. The acceleration from the synchros on the engine is also acting as a brake on the wheels, which is fine if you drive a FWD car.

 

If you change down early or too quickly on a RWD car under heavy braking the braking effect on the wheels can cause them to lock. This is the worst thing you can have in a light RWD car, especially if your braking hard or just about to turn in. Theres no real need for it on a FWD car as the synchro's do all the work, and the weight transfer is forward increasing grip to the driven wheels (the opposite of the rwd car). Its good for your box though as it reduces wear and makes the gearchange down the box quicker and smoother. In the days before synchro's you had to use heel and toe and double declutch to change down.

 

Its pretty easy to learn, start off parked with the engine running in neutral. Put your foot on the brake and press it to the point where you would for medium heavy braking. Now roll the outside of your foot onto the accelerator while keeping the same pressure on the brake and prod the accelerator. The revs should "blip" to 3k or so. Practice this for quite a long time before you try it moving.

 

Once moving, whilst braking get ready to change down. As you dip the clutch roll your foot over and blip the acc and slot the gear home and release the clutch all in one fluid movement. How much you blip the accelerator depends on how quickly you want to change gear, where in the rev range you are changing, how the gears are spaced and how quickly the engine picks up and looses revs under no load. Make sure the first time you try this moving you don't have anything you can hit in front of you.

 

Of course I take no responsibility if you crash your car, break it or doom everyone to a firey death - yada yada etc etc.

[rolex 0]

 

 

If he's got a 3" mandrel bender then yes please :D

 

 

 

still havn't heard anything, so im guessing he aint. sorry.

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Bugger, a bit too Icy still even on the M11.

 

[chrishill 0]

ohh flaps, that looks a bit bent mate, much structural damage?

[s.g 0]

holy crap, hope your ok and not to much damage done :shock:

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Front left corner took most of it, it looks worse than it is but couple of chassis tubes are bent.

[biggerbigben 0]

Front left corner took most of it, it looks worse than it is but couple of chassis tubes are bent.

 

Sorry to hear this mate.

 

But what the hell are you doing driving that sort of car in this temp ? .. Brave sole..

 

Hope you get it fixed chap. Ben

 

Ben

[Supercharged 2]

Hugh - jesus mate, I hope your ok!

 

Sorry about the car obviously but being a kit car i'm sure it will be rebuilt to a better spec than before - main thing is that you are ok as vitually anything could have happened there!

[Scruffythefirst 0]

But what the hell are you doing driving that sort of car in this temp ?

 

Embarrasingly enough I was on my way to a high performance driver training day, probably the reason I wasn't driving it like I stole it.

[Supercharged 2]

Embarrasingly enough I was on my way to a high performance driver training day, probably the reason I wasn't driving it like I stole it.

There is a term to describe this sort of thing - Dinkus