boost monkey 0 Posted March 3, 2009 Updating BOTH your project threads is making the rest of us look bad! :confused: :lol: I'm guessing you've heard of the autotech cams for FI 16v, some people swear by them but it could all be hearsay. Not heard of their use with a G60, perhaps they're better suited to turbos (or is that a retarded thing to say?) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted March 3, 2009 Updating BOTH your project threads is making the rest of us look bad! :confused: :lol: I'm guessing you've heard of the autotech cams for FI 16v, some people swear by them but it could all be hearsay. Not heard of their use with a G60, perhaps they're better suited to turbos (or is that a retarded thing to say?) No,not at all. Cam considerations for a blown engine is different than for a turbo. vr6 throttle cable. you would have had to mod it at the driver end then?! Hats off. I'm going to use a golf driver one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 3, 2009 Updating BOTH your project threads is making the rest of us look bad! :confused: :lol: I'm guessing you've heard of the autotech cams for FI 16v, some people swear by them but it could all be hearsay. Not heard of their use with a G60, perhaps they're better suited to turbos (or is that a retarded thing to say?) No,not at all. Cam considerations for a blown engine is different than for a turbo. vr6 throttle cable. you would have had to mod it at the driver end then?! Hats off. I'm going to use a golf driver one. Nope, its a straight fit off the shelf, makes things nice and easy, trying to keep the fabrication and custom parts list as small as possible to keep it easy to maintain. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted March 3, 2009 Updating BOTH your project threads is making the rest of us look bad! :confused: :lol: I'm guessing you've heard of the autotech cams for FI 16v, some people swear by them but it could all be hearsay. Not heard of their use with a G60, perhaps they're better suited to turbos (or is that a retarded thing to say?) No,not at all. Cam considerations for a blown engine is different than for a turbo. vr6 throttle cable. you would have had to mod it at the driver end then?! Hats off. I'm going to use a golf driver one. Nope, its a straight fit off the shelf, makes things nice and easy, trying to keep the fabrication and custom parts list as small as possible to keep it easy to maintain. I thought the pedal end of the VR and 16v cables was different, the VR using a spring loaded ball which locates in the shaped end of the pedal and the 16v using a cranked end which fits through a hole in the pedal end. Or at least that's what I've seen when fiddling with my 16v and Dom's VR. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted March 3, 2009 I thought the pedal end of the VR and 16v cables was different, the VR using a spring loaded ball which locates in the shaped end of the pedal and the 16v using a cranked end which fits through a hole in the pedal end. Or at least that's what I've seen when fiddling with my 16v and Dom's VR. Ah, but isn't Yan using a VR throttle? :confused4: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted March 3, 2009 I thought the pedal end of the VR and 16v cables was different, the VR using a spring loaded ball which locates in the shaped end of the pedal and the 16v using a cranked end which fits through a hole in the pedal end. Or at least that's what I've seen when fiddling with my 16v and Dom's VR. Ah, but isn't Yan using a VR throttle? :confused4: the g60's/16v have a simple hook that has a reciprocating hole kinda behind the clocks. I looked into the Vr cable.I attained from from Toad farm and i couldn't see how it would fit,although the end of it didn't exactly encourage close scrutiny. I think toad found it in the cow shed. :gag: Not that i wasn't grateful. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 4, 2009 I thought the pedal end of the VR and 16v cables was different, the VR using a spring loaded ball which locates in the shaped end of the pedal and the 16v using a cranked end which fits through a hole in the pedal end. Or at least that's what I've seen when fiddling with my 16v and Dom's VR. Ah, but isn't Yan using a VR throttle? :confused4: the g60's/16v have a simple hook that has a reciprocating hole kinda behind the clocks. I looked into the Vr cable.I attained from from Toad farm and i couldn't see how it would fit,although the end of it didn't exactly encourage close scrutiny. I think toad found it in the cow shed. :gag: Not that i wasn't grateful. :) Just had a WTF? moment with this throttle cable conversation! Dirty, Toady and Stu no basically, no VR throttle pedal although as far as I can tell they are the same thing anyway. Just compared the 2 pedal ends of the 16v cable and the VR6 cable I have, they are the same fitting so as such as interchangable. Just to back this up a little furthur, ETKA no longer lists any other pedal assembly for RHD manual cars until after chassis number R-011001 (so very late) but the retaining bush that sits in the top of the accelerator pedal (and this is for LHD cars too and they do have a more extensive listing) is the same item regardless of pedal type for manuals - its also an original part number and has not been ammended or superseeded, which suggests any revisions to the pedals did not involve the throttle cable attachment point. The VR cable I do have is the earlier one, 536 723 555 A. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 4, 2009 It's only very late VR6 cables that are different and have a spring like end. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 4, 2009 Just been trial fitting the boost return set-up so I could work out where the ISV was going to live, need to change the connection on the inlet manifold for a larger bore one (got one in front of me as I type this) and order a black samco as the blue one looks silly. Just waiting for my drill battery to finish charging so I can complete the drilling (19mm hole!!) and then tap the manifold for the servo vacuum hose. Waiting on a new RSR outlet (used the other one on the nugget), need to order a brake servo hose and tidy the wiring loom, then its onto wiring up the new slimline fan, make the PAS fit and finally refit the driveshafts. Oh and I need the bloody housing for the fuel pressure after run sensor :censored: Some pics of the large amount of pipework that is accumulating at the front of my engine bay.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted March 4, 2009 looks like a neat version of mine. Looks really good yan. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted March 4, 2009 Ditto what rob said, looks like a really tidy job. Yan, do you reckon there's room for improvement on the boost piping layout? Obviously it depends largely on which IC you're using, but is there room to take out some of the nasty bends and keep the internal energy of the air (i.e. boost pressure here) up a little bit? I did a report on the flow loss of fluids through seven different types of bends on a flow bench last year, and it's suprising how much energy is lost just by making the air change direction. Ideally, a to-scale CAD mockup of the engine bay with engine/box etc in place to see how much room there is to work with would be ideal, but I just don't have the time at the mo. It stil plays on my mind though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted March 5, 2009 how come you don't want to feed the breather into return a-la 8v ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 5, 2009 how come you don't want to feed the breather into return a-la 8v ? Because after talking to some people (aposgil and John)about this ages ago I am not sure if this engine will just end up flooding the charger with engine oil! So it's better to route it via a catch tank and back to the sump, will obviously have to squirt some lube into the charger to compensate but that's better than it trying to compress 1/2 a litre of 5w/30. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 5, 2009 More progress today, got the boost return bits I ordered yesterday so that's now all plumbed in, finished tapping the inlet manifold so that has been refitted along with the fuel rail. Been trial fitting the intercooler plumbing and trying to get the front end back on, cut quite a bit off the centre support for the slam panel but ran out of cutting discs for my dremmel so its game over for today. Its starting to look like a nearly finshed job, as soon as I get the missing fuel part I am probably going to do a test start and then tidy up the wiring loom, no point wrapping the loom up only to discover I need to repair a bit of it! Have to finish the front end work first though as the rad will have to stay on once the coolant goes in. Waiting on wiring tools, an RSR outlet, a servo vac hose from VAG and the ebay auction to end for the fuel pressure after run sensor housing so that should give me enough time to finish mucking around with the oil cooler pipework, intercooler pipework and the slam panel. :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted March 6, 2009 got your skates on i c. Going back to the breather thing. :) While u were chewing the fat on it did u consider a one way valve? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 6, 2009 got your skates on i c. Going back to the breather thing. :) While u were chewing the fat on it did u consider a one way valve? Yes but you still get the same problem, oil blowthrough will occur regardless of the fitment of a non-return valve, not sure I want to be fitting NRVs in a sytem intended for both over and possible under pressure either :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Cleaned up my headlights prior to them going back onto the car, really pleased with the results and I have compared them to a new unit and they look the same in terms of lense clarity and reflectors. Well worth stripping your own headlights down and just cleaning both side of the lense given the state of mine! It is worth noting these are 20 year old headlights although the car has been garaged all its life and has only done 90k.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Wow......what a difference. Think I'll go and do mine now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vwdeviant 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Begging for some Smoked Lens protectors Yan! :nuts: Did that to mine last Winter (07-08) and was amazed at just how much more of the yellow reflector I could see too! :lol: Regularly claying the outside of the lenses (and windows too.. use an old-ish claybar) makes a big difference too! Amazed how much rubbish sticks to lights and windows even after a month! :shock: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Begging for some Smoked Lens protectors Yan! :nuts: Did that to mine last Winter (07-08) and was amazed at just how much more of the yellow reflector I could see too! :lol: Regularly claying the outside of the lenses (and windows too.. use an old-ish claybar) makes a big difference too! Amazed how much rubbish sticks to lights and windows even after a month! :shock: Got some non-smoked ones waiting to go on or I could opt for the genuine VAG ones I have too, not worth driving around without lens protectors on despite lenses being available from Germany for the moment. Front end of the car is still mostly in the roof until I finish the engine install so they are not going to be used for a bit longer! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philuk 0 Posted March 11, 2009 wow thats hell of a difference, might have to give it a whirl! are the lenses just glued on? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted March 11, 2009 wow thats hell of a difference, might have to give it a whirl! are the lenses just glued on? just a bunch of metal clips, can be carefully levered off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 12, 2009 wow thats hell of a difference, might have to give it a whirl! are the lenses just glued on? Some pictures here of me stripping those lights down: link Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weetos 0 Posted March 12, 2009 wow thats hell of a difference, might have to give it a whirl! are the lenses just glued on? one could say hella a diffrence :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted March 29, 2009 Well after a weekend of it I finally reached a point where I could crank the car over. First few cranks have been with the plugs out to help get the oil circulating (its been a dry engine for nearly 3 years) then it was plugs in and some cranking. Had no joy and had to call it a day last night as it was getting late and I only have an exhaust system that goes as far as the CAT bypass pipe right now (very loud) Back out onto it again this morning, checked for a spark first but I suspected the timing was off so using some guesswork I tweaked the dizzy around to roughly where a 16v dizzy normally sits and tried again. Starter was really struggling to crank it over but that's not suprising given its all new internals to turn over, it gradually picked up but would not run at all; so I reset the idle screw on the throttle body to a middle setting and tried again. This time it ran for long enough for me to get to the front of the car and give it a bit of throttle, it soon picked up and after the oil had got around was idling very nicely indeed. Had to turn it off fairly sharpish as I had a slight oil seep from the back of the cylinder head from the 'T' piece that holds the oil temp sensor and the charger oil feed hose. That was quickly sorted with a quick tweak of the spanner but the rad neck is leaking from the seal so I need to get another one fitted. Have to get an exhaust on pretty quickly as it was very very loud, got one waiting to go on but ran out of time. Still need to tidy up the wiring loom, wire up the front fan, make a couple of mounting brackets, refit the front end and put some oil in the gearbox. Couple of pics below and I have a crud video being uploading on you tube of it cranking (but not running) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites