How Hot before you...?

[Yandards 0]

After setting off from work and flicking the MFA onto the oil temp setting, as usual, to see when the car is warmed up I got to thinking if I was being overly anal.

 

I try to keep the revs below 3k until the oil is over 80 degrees C and the throttle openings to less than half.

 

So what I would like to know is:

 

a. What temp do you let the oil/water get up to before you boot it? (If at all)

 

b. Do you use WoT (Wide open throttle) before you get the car up to temp?

 

Just a bit of fun be interesting to see what quirky habits we all have :lol:

[ZippyVR6 0]

i try to get the oil temp to up above 85 on the mfa before i give it any wiggins, which is a pain and tough to do sometimes as i work very close to my home and country roads are my stomping ground.

[HiAsAKite 0]

I wait for oil temp to go above 84 degrees before going above 3K or giving it any welly...

[randal 0]

Before the gauge hits 70+, I drive like Miss Daisy is in the back. After that, Daisy could be screaming blue bloody murder for all I care mwahahah

 

Normally let it get properly warmed up before doing the 4K and away valver thing though :roll:

[saysomestuff 0]

the 4K and away valver thing though :roll:

 

:lol: couldnt put it better!

[randal 0]

Can't take the credit on that one I'm afraid mate, someone had it in their sig and it's stuck in my mind ever since! Very true though!!

[Furkz 0]

80 degrees than after than the rev range doesnt drop under 4k till it goes to abt 140 degrees

[NickVR6 0]

Hi Yan. That engines coming out mate so what do you care!! Kill it while you can!!

 

I wait for the magic 80 everytime. Mine boggs down on full low rev throttle when cold so i have to use a gentle openning, oooo er missus

[Walesy 0]

why is it tho...that you always tend to get little chavs trying to race you when your oil temp hasnt risen enough.....it always happens to me...and while were on the subject.....is there a way of changing the MFA so that it automaticaly shows oil temp instead of time....twood save the 5 presses of the button every time i get in!.

[mrbeige 0]

75-80 degrees before going over 3k, thats what I do!

 

Most damage is done to the engine when you start it and stop it anyway! No matter how you drive it!

[Neil VR6 0]

why is it tho...that you always tend to get little chavs trying to race you when your oil temp hasnt risen enough.....it always happens to me...and while were on the subject.....is there a way of changing the MFA so that it automaticaly shows oil temp instead of time....twood save the 5 presses of the button every time i get in!.

 

Soooo true!!

 

I keep it below 3K and don't show any boost until 80 degrees oil temp. Then let it rip! :twisted:

[Dr Forinor 0]

75-80 degrees before going over 3k, thats what I do!

 

Most damage is done to the engine when you start it and stop it anyway! No matter how you drive it!

 

Why is there engine damage when you stop? Someone educate me....

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Most damage is done to the engine when you start it and stop it anyway! No matter how you drive it!

 

Exactly! All this waiting to 80 degrees is a personal saftey net for most people, but it really isn't necessary.

 

During the first 2 minutes after startup from stone cold, the lamba is off and fuelling is over rich and acidity levels are high. It's during this period that you need to avoid thrashing.

 

It's common sense really, the engine is unresponsive when cold and only takes a few mins to become responsive, so boot it. Waiting until the oil gets to 80 achieves nothing. Modern oils are designed to cope with all driving circumstances. I used to thrash my Golf 16Vs from stone cold straight onto a motorway everyday, I had no choice, and that never did them any harm.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Why is there engine damage when you stop? Someone educate me....

 

There isn't, the cams and piston rings will have been soaked with oil when it was running. It's starting from stone cold that's the problem as the oil needs to be pumped up to the cams and pistons....but both are moving in the meantime and 'grinding' on other metal surfaces.

 

It is critical on some engines. For example on Subarus, if you don't prime the engine first after an oil change and fill the filter with oil first, before running it....you can cause some damage.

[Neil VR6 0]

But the oil that most of us use in our Corrado's is only semi-synth Syna stuff though?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Semi synth is fine.

 

It was the old cars our parents used to drive, Morris Marinas, Cortinas, Mk2 escorts etc etc that would suffer major wear if they weren't gently warmed like an old B&W wooden cased TV. VW engines are made of stern stuff and can take hard revs from cold. My mum had a 1.6 Golf CL from new and gave it to me after 6 years use....she used to redline it every morning joining the motorway from stone cold. I did the head on it after 158K and the bores were still new looking and barely worn at all....and that was with mineral oil.

 

I'm not saying waiting to 80 is wrong, just saying it's not really necessary as VW engines are not that fragile but if folk feel happier doing that, then fairy nuff....

[corradophil 3]

But the oil that most of us use in our Corrado's is only semi-synth Syna stuff though?

 

Only! it's better than what alot people would use in their older cars :wink:

 

I just don't hammer mine until up to normal water temp.

[Neil VR6 0]

I quite agree but it was probably developed 15 years ago wasn't it so might benefit from being nicely warmed up before you give the car any beans. However, just reading kev's mail has made me think that perhaps it's more critical to warm up G60's to 80 as whilst the engine may be hard as nails, the G-lader certainly isn't.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I'm not sure about the G-lader..... they seem to last 100K on average, which isn't too bad imo....that's about the same life expentancy of a Vortech blower too. I think a relatively small number of them popping is giving them a bad press....usually because the belt snaps, but the charger itself is pretty robust I'd say, given it's complex design and ultra tight tolerances.

[Neil VR6 0]

Yup, unless you have it rebuilt at Jabba :mad: I just had mine rebuilt at 116K for the second time. JMR did it this time but when Jabba had done it first at about 90K they didn't bother to replace the OE oil seals. Great. The charger will last longer than 100K providing it's properly serviced.

[davidwort 0]

why is it tho...that you always tend to get little chavs trying to race you when your oil temp hasnt risen enough.....it always happens to me...and while were on the subject.....is there a way of changing the MFA so that it automaticaly shows oil temp instead of time....twood save the 5 presses of the button every time i get in!.

 

Soooo true!!

 

I keep it below 3K and don't show any boost until 80 degrees oil temp. Then let it rip! :twisted:

 

It seems sensible to let the water warm up most of the way too, as the thermostat starts to open at around 80 degs? if the thermostat is shut and you cane it, wouldn't the engine be cooled less effectively than when the radiator is being used fully? Don't forget the oil relies on the water system for cooling through the heat exchanger.

 

David.

[2cc 0]

Well I'm an advocate of doing what it says in the handbook (must be my RAF training lol).

Quote Do not overrev or use full throttle until the engine has reached the normal operating temperature Unquote.

 

For me that's 80 degrees.

 

I also let them tick over for a few mins before switch off after driving hard (if I haven't eased off for the last few miles).

 

And yes, it really hacks me off too having the chav in my boot when the engine's cold.