How do I remove Scorpion Alarm & immobilser?

[jimborae 0]

Guys I need to remove the factory fitted Scorpion alarm from my 16valver. The battery had been disconnected for ages 7 now the alarm doesn't work. It arms but wont de arm I've tried resetting it but I think the back up battery is dead.

 

Therefore I want to remove the alarm so I can at least start the car. How do I do it??

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Easy. Drop the driver's side shelf and steering cowling and you'll soon see where the fitters spliced into....the aim is to reconnect the original wiring. I removed a Clifford from my MK2 Golf and took half about 4 hours, including the time to resolder and heatshring the OE wires back together.

 

If it's got an immobiliser, then it's usually tapped into the starter and fuel circuits. If not, it's even easier to remove. Check the hazard light wiring aswell as they tap into that aswell.

[h100vw 0]

A factory fit alarm should need no repair work if you are careful. I took one off my MK3. All the connections just plug in or you can remove the wires from teh plugs and reinstate the original wires.

 

The battery back up will have no bearing on the working of the immobiliser.

 

Gavin

[jimborae 0]

The battery back up will have no bearing on the working of the immobiliser.

 

Hi Gav,

 

I'm not sure I understand that comment. Are you saying that the alarm & immobilisor are to seperate components?

 

If so why will the car not turn over when the alarm is going off. Also when it stops going off the car will turn over but not start & the red alarm light flashes.???

 

Please help I'm confused & I need to get the car started. :(

[jimborae 0]

The battery back up will have no bearing on the working of the immobiliser.

 

Hi Gav,

 

I'm not sure I understand that comment. Are you saying that the alarm & immobilisor are two seperate components?

 

If so why will the car not turn over when the alarm is going off. Also when it stops going off the car will turn over but not start & the red alarm light flashes.???

 

Please help I'm confused & I need to get the car started. :(

[ollster 0]

ring scorpoion, my alarm buggered up after a flat battery the battery requiring me to send it off to them, but I didn’t fancy having to bypass the immobiliser circuit only to have to re-connect it when I get my alarm back. Luckily there is a way of bridging the immobiliser at the alarm multi plug; i will obviously not post up how on a public forum but if you ring scorpion they should be able to help. It is as simple as getting one piece of wire and connecting two pins at the multiplug!!!

[h100vw 0]

The battery back up will have no bearing on the working of the immobiliser.

 

Hi Gav,

 

I'm not sure I understand that comment. Are you saying that the alarm & immobilisor are two seperate components?

 

If so why will the car not turn over when the alarm is going off. Also when it stops going off the car will turn over but not start & the red alarm light flashes.???

 

Please help I'm confused & I need to get the car started. :(

 

 

 

The battery back up is for the siren only.

 

 

You say it arms but doesn't disarm. Does that mean the doors lock but don't unlock?

 

Once the alarm is set, nothing but the fob can unset it. The car won't start if the alarm is wailing because it thinks it is being done over.

 

If the car turns over but doesn't start then there is a good chance that the immobiliser isn't in the start circuit OR the relay in the alarm which cuts the fuel pump is bad.

 

 

Are you getting a spark when the engine is cranked?

 

For Thatcham approval 2 circuits need to be cut. Traditionally the starter feed and the fuel pump.

 

Some fitters may cut the ign live line which will stop power to the ECU and hence the fuel pump.

 

Do you hear the fuel pump prime when the ign is turnded on?

 

You could jump the fuel pump relay with a piece of wire to see if the wires to the pump are being cut or not. No noise but the car cranks would point my finger at the immob relay for the pump. If the pump does work then maybe the fuel pump relay is duff.

 

It's really difficult to write down everythung that is going through my mind from a troubleshooting point of view, as the next step is decided by the results.

 

Gavin

[jimborae 0]

Hi Gav,

 

Sorry I'm incorrect when I say the alarm arms when the battery is connnected. The doors don't lock, the alarm merely goes off & I can't stop it using the fob, only by disconnecting the battery again or by leaving it a while.

 

I can hear the fuel pump prime but I haven't got as far as seeing if there is a spark when I crank the engine although I suspect there isn't as normally it fires first time.

 

 

Cheers

 

James

[dazzyvr6 0]

i had that problem with mine,i had to dissconect the wires from the alarm unit then reconnect after a minute or so,then it would reset itself

[h100vw 0]

If the pump primes then the immob must be disarmed. You need to confirm the sparks.

 

Disconnecting the battery should be enought to reset the alarm.

 

Still could be worth a call to http://www.electrosystems.co.uk/tour-home.htm

 

Gavin

[jimborae 0]

Update:

 

This morning after repeatedly connecting/disconnecting the battery I got the stage where th alarm light on the dash was on but alarm not going off. When it's been like this previously the car starts & yeh presto the car started 1st time. At all times the alarm fob was useless.

 

I then disconnected the battery again & when I reconnected the alarm didn't go off but the car wont start & fuel pump didn't priime either.

 

Has anybody got a guide on how to remove the alarm & imobiliser system. I presume it's not the black box/siren in the engine bay. There's two further boxes behind the glove box & an extra fuse block by the main fuse box on the drivers side.

[dazzyvr6 0]

i had that problem with mine,i had to dissconect the wires from the alarm unit then reconnect after a minute or so,then it would reset itself

 

as i said before..my alarm wouldnt reset no matter how many times i dissconnected the battery,and at the time i was on top of the horse show pass broken down,so i called out the breakdown service,he tried the same as me,he then dissconected the main alarm unit behind the glove box,then hey presto the alarm reset it self,it may work :wink:

[jimborae 0]

i had that problem with mine,i had to dissconect the wires from the alarm unit then reconnect after a minute or so,then it would reset itself

 

as i said before..my alarm wouldnt reset no matter how many times i dissconnected the battery,and at the time i was on top of the horse show pass broken down,so i called out the breakdown service,he tried the same as me,he then dissconected the main alarm unit behind the glove box,then hey presto the alarm reset it self,it may work :wink:

 

Did he leave it disconnected or or disconnect & plug back again?? I think I've tried both though. :(

[h100vw 0]

The immobiliser will be on the thick red/black from the ign switch, probably behind the fuse box. The fuel pump will be a red/yellow wire again behind the fuse box. If you sort them so they don't go through the alarm any more that'll allow you to run the car. Don't leave it like that as it give the insurance the perfect excuse to decline a claim for theft.

 

Gavin

[jimborae 0]

The immobiliser will be on the thick red/black from the ign switch, probably behind the fuse box. The fuel pump will be a red/yellow wire again behind the fuse box. If you sort them so they don't go through the alarm any more that'll allow you to run the car. Don't leave it like that as it give the insurance the perfect excuse to decline a claim for theft.

 

Gavin

 

Thanks Gav, I'll try & find it tomorrow. Doesn't matter about the insurance as it ain't insured, it's off the road at present. :(

[lukeage 0]

jimborae, where abouts in berkshire are you?

[jimborae 0]

Sunny Newbury mate :)

[Bush 10]

Sorry to bring up an old thread.

 

The original alarm/imob has died on my 95 vr6. Had the battery disconnected for the last few months, as I wasn't using the car. Went to move it the other day and the remote won't disarm the immobiliser. Tried umpteen different resets and pulling fuses with no joy.

 

Spoke to a fellow at Scorpion, who confirmed it would be completely dead, so needs ripping out.

 

Does anybody have any wiring diagrams or pin outs for the scorpion 5000 (918 / 998).

 

Read lots about it being straight forward, but not any pointers on what wires go where. I've located the box under the glove box, and what looks to be wires from it going to fuse box.

 

Any help with this would be great. By PM if it's maybe not suitable to be put on the internet for obvious reasons...

[fendervg 32]

If you are removing it completely you just need to trace all the (usually) black wires from the alarm box back to where they are spliced into the OEM loom and then reconnect where that's been cut - often as simple as reconnecting two wires of the same colour.

 

Your car is a 95 though, so it would have had a factory immobiliser fitted that works off the ECU and key. That would be different. I have a Toad immobiliser and a Meta alarm fitted, and they both just come back alive after fitting a charged battery after the car has been sitting for a while. Is the fob you are using passive or does it have a battery?

[Bush 10]

The key doesn't appear to have a chip in it, possibly an older car that wasn't registered until 95...

 

Key fob has battery, I've just nipped into Argos for new batteries as a last effort before starting to trace wires.

 

Initial investigation it is mainly connected into the fuse box, with a large harness running from the 998 box under the glove box. I believe this is a scorpion 918 alarm, or 5000, not sure what the difference is between the different models.

[fendervg 32]

Ok - makes sense. As said above, if you are taking it out entirely you just need to disconnect all the wires, and re-join and repair any cuts and splices. Most of these just sit in between the ignition on live feed to the starter and power to the fuel pump relay - that's 4 wires, and the other ones will likely be sensors and LEDs and siren, maybe a wire for remote locking.

[Bush 10]

Got it working!!!!

 

New battery in key fob, even though the led was still working. Made no difference.

 

Found another 3 fuses behind fuse box, pulled these, and car turned over and ran for a couple of seconds.

 

Left ignition on, replaced fuses. Ignition off and held down disarm button for 10 seconds. Car fired up.

 

Not sure what to do now. Leave it alone, or carry on and remove alarm....

[fendervg 32]

Good news - maybe get an auto electrician or alarm installer to give the once over?

[Bush 10]

That would be my best bet, but there isn't anyone local to me. I think I'll look into the wiring a bit more when I get time, and remove it completely if I can get my head round it. Don't think I'll trust it not to play up again.

 

At least I can move it around the garage easily now.

[fla 9]

the batteries in the siren (which is most of the 'brain') will have leaked onto the circuit board. Common problem with these if they're let for too long. The replacement batteries are about £50! Better to pull it out and reinstall a new one. You can probably sell your fobs to recoup some money - they're still required by a lot of systems and are actually worth more than the alarm, surprisingly.

 

I would replace but get a good installer to fit yours, unless you're quite good with tracing circuits.