borachris 0 Posted October 20, 2013 I know when I connected my fuel lines (to the fuel rail) they naturally connect the wrong way round, the right way round they cross over each other hope this helps Cheers mate but I'm using the mk5 fuel rail and filter so I've only got one fuel line to the engine bay the rest is done in the filter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted October 20, 2013 Cheers mate but I'm using the mk5 fuel rail and filter so I've only got one fuel line to the engine bay the rest is done in the filter no worries, you learn a new thing everyday Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borachris 0 Posted October 20, 2013 no worries, you learn a new thing everyday I learn a new thing that's wrong with my corrado everyday lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted October 20, 2013 i learn a new thing that's wrong with my corrado everyday lol lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted October 20, 2013 I'm using the mk5 fuel rail and filter so I've only got one fuel line to the engine bay the rest is done in the filter ah I had a feeling that was like a 2 into 1 jobby wasn't sure though, didn't realise the mk5's only have one pipe, have you tried getting fuel with pipes not attached to this filter? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borachris 0 Posted October 21, 2013 Well it's been pointed out to me that I'm using the wrong one for the feed and return As can be seen here in another one of kev's pics the one I was using as a return is clearly stamped 'in' :epicfail: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hofmiester 10 Posted October 21, 2013 I learn a new thing that's wrong with my corrado everyday lol Haha, welcome to the last year of my life. My kids don't know who I am any more......just that oily man that lives in the garage and occasionally comes in the house to wash his hands :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted October 21, 2013 Well it's been pointed out to me that I'm using the wrong one for the feed and return As can be seen here in another one of kev's pics the one I was using as a return is clearly stamped 'in' :epicfail: I bet your excited to get your baby fired up It's got to work as it's basically all new!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted October 21, 2013 (edited) Chris, maybe you could advise me on this. How easy was the swap for you to that fuel filter/regulator setup? I'm still running standard fuel filter to an aftermarket regulator up front. Edited October 21, 2013 by Fanjita Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted October 21, 2013 Yeah the timing does move around a lot at idle. The ECU will try to maintain idle speed with timing before it will move the throttle as it's less aggressive. The lumpiness will be down to a vac leak I suspect. They can be hard to trace on 24Vs as there are many places unmetered air can leak in. Blowing cigar smoke into the intake is an old favourite. Where there's smoke, there's a leak :D What are you idle and part throttle trims in VCDS? Measuring block 32 IIRC. +1-2% is one happy engine. Greather than +5% could be air leaks or a duff MAF. Have a look at the misfire detection measuring blocks too, although I can't remember what number it is. If it's zero, it thinks everything is rosey. Having had 12V, 2.8 24v, MK4 3.2 and MK5 3.2, none of them have ever been 100% dead smooth at idle. The MK5 one was with my standalone idling at 800rpm though. On ME7, yup, rough idle! Got full VCDS lite today, checked idle trims were 0.6% and 0.8% Partial trims were 0.0% but I havent run it much since last battery disconnection Missfire count was zero all round BUT the end box says it's "disabled" do I need to "enable" this and if so how? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borachris 0 Posted October 21, 2013 Chris, maybe you could advise me on this. How easy was the swap for you to that fuel filter/regulator setup? I'm still running standard fuel filter to an aftermarket regulator up front. My engine came with the rail already fitted with it being mk5 engine so all I have done is remove the old filter and put the new mk5 filter in its place, then I have just cut the blue return pipe and attached it to the return on the filter with a bit of spare fuel hose. I'm going to replace all the lines with new hose and clips once I'm happy with the location of it, its not currently fixed in place yet I bet your excited to get your baby fired up It's got to work as it's basically all new!!! Thats for sure lol Going to be Thursday before I get any time to try again though :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 21, 2013 Good news! So is it up and running now then?! J.C, good question. Have a read of this thread - http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?3014162-Misfire-Detection-How-do-I-turn-on Otherwise those fuel trims are very low indeed, which is a good sign. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted October 21, 2013 My engine came with the rail already fitted with it being mk5 engine so all I have done is remove the old filter and put the new mk5 filter in its place, then I have just cut the blue return pipe and attached it to the return on the filter with a bit of spare fuel hose. Yeah I have a mk5 engine with a single fuel rail too mate. Had to mount a regulator to the side of the engine as a temporary measure. Will get a filter and have a go at modifying it then! Bit reluctant to chop the blue pipe if I ever want to go back though... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 21, 2013 Just keep the bit of blue pipe you cut off and rejoin it at a later date it if need be. Can you see yourself going back to a 12V though? :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matty golf 0 Posted October 22, 2013 quick question as i cant seem to find it im putting the 24 v in my vr6 but cant get the rev counter working. i think i read summat a while ago about there different modules could any body please advise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted October 22, 2013 Depends on the Ecu/engine combination. On mine the revs are delivered via the canbus (digital information carrying system). So I had to use a can converter to transform this into an analogue signal my clocks can use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted October 22, 2013 Just keep the bit of blue pipe you cut off and rejoin it at a later date it if need be. Can you see yourself going back to a 12V though? :) I guess you're right. Not from a personal point but was thinking of resale value and being original. Although 24v rados do fetch good money! I'll hack it up then, but I'll be wincing when I do and maybe with a tear running down my cheek... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted October 22, 2013 quick question as i cant seem to find it im putting the 24 v in my vr6 but cant get the rev counter working. i think i read summat a while ago about there different modules could any body please advise Got the same problem..... I've not got around to sorting it after 3 years! :lol: It's either a direct feed or canbus converter. I'm going to get someone who knows more about these things than I to sort mine as I'm rubbish with wiring... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 22, 2013 Put "Tacho signal converter" into Google, loads of them about. It's what I used on mine. It just takes a signal from one of the coil trigger wires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted November 1, 2013 (edited) Is it bad forum etiquette to ask another question without waiting for an answer to a previous question? If it is then forget the previous questions and somebody please tell me where the hell this little fella goes? It's in the loom coming from the engine bay along with G1 G2 etc I think that yellow plug is attached to main beam, it can be plugged into the alarm etc to make the lights flash. Edited December 19, 2013 by KipVR Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
k4na.x 0 Posted January 16, 2014 After a bit of help in regards to the input shaft on the VR box and that on the R32 box. Is it exactly the same length and fitment i.e. the input shaft on the VR box will fit straight into the r32 block when mounting? Thanks!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted January 16, 2014 After a bit of help in regards to the input shaft on the VR box and that on the R32 box. Is it exactly the same length and fitment i.e. the input shaft on the VR box will fit straight into the r32 block when mounting? Thanks!!! to mount vr6 02A gearbox onto r32 engine you use the vr6 clutch and flywheel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
k4na.x 0 Posted January 16, 2014 to mount vr6 02A gearbox onto r32 engine you use the vr6 clutch and flywheel. I have the VR clutch and flywheel. I just wanted to know if the VR input shaft on the gearbox when fitted to the r32 engine will fit exactly the same as the input shaft on the r32 gearbox. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 16, 2014 It will. If you had a dsg r32 lump, there is sometimes an adapter on the r32 crank. It looks like a small additional bearing, it should pull of and then you can bolt on the 02a box. I think it's possible to fit the box over this bearing without any side effects but don't quote me! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matty golf 0 Posted January 26, 2014 Fitted a 2.8 24 v how do I go about getting the rev counter to work do I need a resistor or something Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites