Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[borachris 0]

The rest is pretty easy, spanner engine out, spanner engine in.

 

Yeah it all sounds fairly straight forward but no doubt I'll have a few dumb questions lol

 

Me and a mate were going to have a go at the wiring ourselves but once I'd paid for the ECU immo and coding work and then a remap it seemed silly to give myself the headache when Mark gave such a fair price!

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

The wiring isn't that hard, but it took me about 15 hours to figure out, confirm and make the loom. I learnt a lot in the process, but wouldn't rush into doing it again!

[borachris 0]

It was more the trouble shooting afterwords that was making me have doubts about attempting it, if its not done right the first time a few of the guys seem like they've had a hard time getting things sorted, knowing my luck I would've ended up in the same boat!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

its been more then a few days since I hooked up the clutch switch and brake switch,1st into 2nd gear does feel slightly smoother, other then that it kind feels the same as it did before which is a good thing,

going to scan it when I get a chance and hopefully its fault free :)

[borachris 0]

I've been reading quicky's PDF guide and in there it says I should use the 12v crack pipe, i'm sure i've seen people in this thread say they've used the 24v crack pipe?

 

I'm going to order a metal one so which one should I use? If they can both be used does one have benefits over the other?

 

Also going to be getting a new thermostat housing, I was going to get a 12v one but if i'm using the 24v pipe do I need a 24v one?

 

Sorry for the mundane questions but with the conflicting info I just wanted to be sure.

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

I used the 24v pipe, it's a few mm longer than the 12v item. I matched that to the 12v thermostat housing as the 24v has a slightly different output for the pipework. Basically, plug the front of the engine where the 24v normally takes it's aux water feed from and then use a 24v crack pipe and use the original 12v cooling system. Relocate the aux pump to the stock 12v position and you're done!

 

Virtually plugs straight in apart from having to shorten the length of the pipework going to the throttle body as the 12v and 24v throttles are on different sides.

[borachris 0]

I used the 24v pipe, it's a few mm longer than the 12v item. I matched that to the 12v thermostat housing as the 24v has a slightly different output for the pipework. Basically, plug the front of the engine where the 24v normally takes it's aux water feed from and then use a 24v crack pipe and use the original 12v cooling system. Relocate the aux pump to the stock 12v position and you're done!

 

Virtually plugs straight in apart from having to shorten the length of the pipework going to the throttle body as the 12v and 24v throttles are on different sides.

 

That'll do for me, Cheers Sean :cheers:

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

No probs, anything, give me a shout!

[coullstar 0]

Okay Im considering going this route with my Corrado and have the perfect donor car - my daily 2001 V6 Golf 4mo.

 

Other than the engine, some ancillaries, loom and ECU is there anything else required?

 

Reason being I would probably break the donor car to get some money back, I could even keep the box & haldex system if I wanted to go all out and turbo the thing. In fact it might be a good chance to do a 2.8 24v turbo or supercharged on the car when doing the engine swap.

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Throttle pedal, bigger brakes if you don't already have them, the 24v powersteering pump with the 12v pulley and the cooling system a few posts up should be enough to get you on your feet.

[coullstar 0]

Cool, Im game I think. The more I think about it the more I want to go for it. Always promised myself a proper project and I think this could be it. If its relatively feasible it will have FI of some sorts.

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

The 24v turbo stuff is pretty expensive compared to the 12v stuff, but not as expensive as the r32 taxed stuff!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Cool, Im game I think. The more I think about it the more I want to go for it. Always promised myself a proper project and I think this could be it. If its relatively feasible it will have FI of some sorts.

 

Depends what you want to achieve. You can't get cams or ARP / Raceware headbolts for AUE engines. America never got it so no one bothered making aftermarket parts for it.

 

The R32 tax is for the ignorant. There's no REAL reason why it should be any more money to boost than a 12V, it's just that 98% of R32 owners buy the silly priced kits instead of building it themselves.

 

Get the HPA turbo manifold as it's the best by miles, a spacer, some ARPs, then do the rest yourself. Only fools pay £10K+ to turbo an R32!

[borachris 0]

Throttle pedal, bigger brakes if you don't already have them, the 24v powersteering pump with the 12v pulley and the cooling system a few posts up should be enough to get you on your feet.

 

Do you mean the 12v powersteering pump with the 24v pulley??

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Yeah, my bad!

[borachris 0]

Yeah, my bad!

 

Hahaha, you had me panicking i'd bought the wrong bits lol

 

My BDB had electric steering so I've bought the Aux bracket and a pulley from a 4mo.

 

Just need to sort out a non AC belt for it.

 

Does anyone know if my fuel rail setup will be the same as a BUB or BHF? Will i need the fuel filter with the built in regulator?

[J.C 10]

its been more then a few days since I hooked up the clutch switch and brake switch,1st into 2nd gear does feel slightly smoother, other then that it kind feels the same as it did before which is a good thing,

going to scan it when I get a chance and hopefully its fault free :)

 

I've done some investigation regarding the clutch switch,

with the clutch pedal depressed, it speeds up the closing (definatley) and opening (not obvious but I believe this is true)of the throttle body,

with the clutch up it gives a smoother transition between open and closed throttle positions, hence why a lot of people reports revs rising between gear changes.

I have problems with a "lazy" left foot so quite often have it resting on the clutch pedal, on a normal cable opperated system that's not a problem but was getting funny jerking issues where (with hindsight) the switch was opening and closing as my foot depressed the pedal to the switching point

anyway I'd read that if you open circuit "clutch down" the circuit, it will reset to "clutch up" within a certain time, after some testing (and funny looks from passengers and pedesrians) I believe after about 8 seconds of seeing "clutch down" the ECU will default to "clutch up", so that ruined my idea of pulsing a signal to the ECU using a cheap timer kit,

anyway after testing the driving experience in regards to aceelerating/ decelerating with the ECU seeing a "clutch down" signal, I can say it's very jerky and NOT smooth at all,

 

so

to recap

Clutch swith IS important,

I adjusted mine so it activates just before the clutch starts to slip, this way I can rest my foot on the pedal and not activate the switch

I hope this makes sense,

any questions just ask

[borachris 0]

Ok I found my answer about the fuel rail in Kevs thread, hadn't realised his was a BDB engine, Cheers Kev, some very nice touches, single fuel line into the bay tidied it up nicely!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

good info J.C , Yea its deffinatley a smoother gear change changing up, before it wasn't to noticeable but it was a tiny bit {wouldn't say jerky as such} pokey! in up to 2nd , up to 3rd ,4th was normal though, still need to scan it for faults but iv been driving it everyday and its still sweet, no throttle pedal problems or anything , Im hopeing now its 100% fault free , the only thing i want to sort out soon is the PAS fluid, my pump whines like mad once its warmed up, it was 100% sound before i drained it for the conversion, replaced it for genuine vw/audi stuff , iv looked at the fluid and it had red stuff in it originally, but looking at the fluid now its nether green nor red lol,

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Ok I found my answer about the fuel rail in Kevs thread, hadn't realised his was a BDB engine, Cheers Kev, some very nice touches, single fuel line into the bay tidied it up nicely!

 

Any time chap :)

 

Yeah I liked that fuel line method and it also ensures the engine is always fed with cold fuel!

 

My BDB always had a rock solid totally smooth idle, which I think was partly down to the constant pressure and cool fuel.

 

My BFH can get a little lumpy when it's hot so I might retro fit some MK5 bits!

[borachris 0]

Any time chap :)

 

Yeah I liked that fuel line method and it also ensures the engine is always fed with cold fuel!

 

My BDB always had a rock solid totally smooth idle, which I think was partly down to the constant pressure and cool fuel.

 

My BFH can get a little lumpy when it's hot so I might retro fit some MK5 bits!

 

Got to say its an awesome thread mate, every other page I read I find ideas I want to steal lol

 

I'm really starting to get into some of the build threads, some awesome corrado's on here and some equally great owners!

 

I'm just trying to decide what side to put my intake on!

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

I'm going to roll with Kev's idea of stock location myself! Looks great and gets the intake out of the hot air coming through the radiator on the right hand side of the engine.

[borachris 0]

Yeah I know what you mean about the air on the passenger side, I guess I just need to get it in the bay, even though i've seen pictures i'm finding it hard to believe I will have enough room to have it going around the back to the drivers side lol

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

You'll be surprised!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yep, 80mm silicon pipe fits back there easily :D

 

Using the stock corrado airbox with paper filter, it made 267hp, so that intake path wasn't as restrictive as I thought it would be. Maybe if you use a BMC CDA (the bigger one for 2.7 RS4s or MK1 TT 3.2) instead of a corrado airbox, you'll probably free off another 10 ponies.

 

Another method I wanted to try was an intake with the throttle on the opposite side. Rumour has it one of the VAG group soft roaders with the 3.2 engine in it has just such an intake, but I never confirmed it. That would be very OEM indeed!!