Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[1990 0]

Ok I'll mail you it when I get home mate.

 

Got that now, cheers James!!

 

I've just listed all the T121 pin outs from the Mk4 BFH wiring diagram and the BUB one so I can now see whats different. I wondered if I could put it onto a spread sheet on the forum so you could search for wire colours or sensor numbers rather than flicking through the wiring diagrams, I have no idea if that would be useful or how to do it but i'll have a good try.

 

What Lambda probes do you have? I have Mk5 ones x 4 but they look to be wired different to the mk4 ones so i'm looking to swap with someone.

 

I've been routing the wiring on my car today, I had to cut a 45mm hole in the bulkhead so I could have the ECU in the factory position, that was a bit harsh because its recently been painted but the guy's at the garage had a cutter that tightened with a 19mm spanner and it cut the hole very very neat.

 

Can anyone tell me which sensor is which on the side of the head? I think they are :

 

G40 - Hall Sender

G163 - Hall Sender 2

N205 - Inlet Cam Control Valve 1

N318 - Exhaust Cam Control Valve 1

[1990 0]

I have a set of MK4 injectors and they are exactly the same as my BDB Audi injectors. I don't the think the injectors changed until the run out engines, which got an EV14 Bosch injector IIRC. MK4/Early MK5 use an EV12 injector and are pale blue in colour.

 

I swapped my mk5 injectors for mk4 ones, aparently the mk4 ones flow about 4% more fuel.

[Fanjita 1]

What Lambda probes do you have? I have Mk5 ones x 4 but they look to be wired different to the mk4 ones so i'm looking to swap with someone.

 

As it happens the fella i bought the setup from has just found the lambda sensors he was including. They're being sent to me. It's likely these are mk4 as the wiring was stripped from one. If these are I'll be happy to swap them with you as i need the mk5s!

 

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[1990 0]

Looking at the diagrams again it looks like any lambda's can be used but a couple of the pins need swapping over. I think i'll buy some blank plugs and make a small 'mk4 loom to mk5 lambda' conversion loom, it would save me trying to find mk5 ones if I end up needing the mk5 looms and ECU.

 

 

The extra plug under the alternator you mention on page 113 is for the air con, it joins the alternator plug and the 4 wires run to . connector near the starter.

[Fanjita 1]

Oh yeah i should have said this! I realised when i started looking at what was over that side. Luckily i was left with an aircon pump.

 

Careful with the lambdas i swear some guys said they were different between mk4 and 5 the wires could still be similar though.

 

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[Kevin Bacon 5]

I swapped my mk5 injectors for mk4 ones, aparently the mk4 ones flow about 4% more fuel.

 

Interesting the MK5s use a shorter nozzle. They must atomise off the tip sooner. Makes sense they flow less as the MK5 cams are milder. Part and parcel of making it more emissions friendly I guess.

[1990 0]

Could anyone tell me which is which on these 4 sensors?:

[quicky1980 0]

ab are cam sensors, CD are the solenoids that control the variable cam

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Or more specifically:

 

A - Inlet cam position sensor

B - Exhaust cam position sensor

C - Inlet cam variator solenoid

D - Exhaust cam variator solenoid

[1990 0]

Excellent, thanks for that. I'll see if I can find C&D on my wiring diagram.

 

Would anyone with a mk5 engine be able to do me a favour and look at the part numbers for the plugs which go onto each of those sensors?

 

I'm also still unsure about Relay 100 for the SAI, if I leave it there do I still need to connect the main power and eart wires that run to it or are they just for the pump? At the minute my battery only had the main power from the starter/alternator and the power to the fuse box on one side, and on the other the main earth to the engine/box, fuse box earth and one from the loom.

[Fanjita 1]

You want the part numbers for all the sensor plugs mate?

 

I've just got this mk5 loom (built 2005 so early mk5) so I could read them off there for you?

 

Guys, for the record I've been doing a lot of learning in this. It would appear although Vince is saying stick with the CD and CE ecu, if an ecu has run a BUB engine, it will run it. The fact I was finding part numbers for ECUs and a restriction to their years was just confusing me, even though they were for a BUB engine. The year restriction is down to differences with the car not the engine. We won't be using these bits so it should be ok.

[1990 0]

Or more specifically:

 

A - Inlet cam position sensor

B - Exhaust cam position sensor

C - Inlet cam variator solenoid

D - Exhaust cam variator solenoid

 

I've sussed those now thanks

 

A - G40 Hall Sener 1

B - G163 Hall Sender 2

C - N205 Inlet cam control valve 1

D - N318 Exhaust cam control valve 1

 

James, i've got the numbers nd ordered the plugs now but thanks for the offer

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

still need to source an oil sump , seems like some of the yanks on vortex use the steel 12v sump , apparentley it holds less oil and you need to make a cover for the flywheel, so im considering useing a 12v one but not sure about the oil level sender? does the ecu need it? or would it be fine with out it?

[1990 0]

I don't think the ECU needs it, its just to give a warning that your service is due.

 

Has anyone got a pic of how they put they 12v oil pressure senders onto the R32's oil filter housing? Does eash one need to be in a certain position and is the existing sensor in there for the MFA?

[Fanjita 1]

Suggestions are a T piece mate, it's quite high pressure by the housing anyway, but I'd be tempted to give the vital one a direct connection and the other two on a t piece. The most vital in my mind is the low pressure switch, the high pressure switch should be fine on the t piece along with the temp sender.

 

HTH

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The steel sump holds more oil. 6 litres vs 5.7 for the R32 sump. I have no idea why the yanks use a steel sump. Why don't these people just use the parts that came with the engine? :shrug: Don't follow their lead. Stick to the R32 sump mate.

 

As for the pressure senders and filter housing, you just screw the VR6 ones into the 2 ports available. It doesn't appear to matter which one goes where. The VR6 clocks are just interested in the pressure differential across the two senders.

[Fanjita 1]

That's without an mfa temp then kev ?

 

To get it to work you need to include the temp sensor in the filter housing, right?

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[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yup, without MFA temp.

 

I've been thinking about that. I think the reason mine reads so low is because the Tee peice is quite big and heatsinking the temperature away, especially as the air through the radiator cools it down too. I've been thinking about getting an ally plate made in the same shape as the OE sump sender, and tap the VR6 oil temp sender into that. Then it will actually measure what's in the sump, and it also saves the faff of a tee peice!

 

Although having said that, what I've seen on the MFA (~ 70 ish on the motorway) seems to match the sump temperature with a laser thermometer. Maybe they do run that cool?!!

[Fanjita 1]

Could well be kev, a good idea though but ill just get hold of a T for now! Any idea what they cost and where from?

 

I would also hazard a guess the sump helps. Its got a lot of surface area what with the fins hasn't it! Does sound very cool though, i used to see 110 above 70 mph on the 12v!

 

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[Kevin Bacon 5]

This is the tee you need mate. 3 x M10x1 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Pressure-Gauge-T-Piece-M10x1-050-M-/280770440398

 

The R32 sump is flat after a couple of hours driving I would expect the sump case temp to mirror it's contents. I left it idling in the garage for ages before checking and the MFA matched the laser thermometer!

[quicky1980 0]

Any one else showing a lower coolant temp on the instrument cluster than what it should be? My obd signal tells me something like 20-30deg higher than the gauge. Any thoughts on how I can fix that?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Probably the yellow temp sender. They seem to 'go off' with age. My R32 is up to 82 ish water temp after about 5 mins of driving, but the dash gauge is still at 70. Takes AAAAAAAGGES to catch up, but does eventually.

[mat-mk3 0]

I had to put a resistor in for mine to read correctly. Will post up the size when I find it.

 

Fishwick, is your MFA working? Where did you connect it up?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I had to put a resistor in for mine to read correctly. Will post up the size when I find it.

 

Fishwick, is your MFA working? Where did you connect it up?

 

Are you talking about the oil or water temp there fella?

 

Yep, the oil temp is working on my MFA. I just plumbed in the standard VR6 temp sender and used the standard corrado loom for it.

[mat-mk3 0]

Sorry, coolant temp I was talking about but just remembered I'm using MK3 vr6 clocks but I can't see them being much different. I have read some 1.8T people needing the resistor for the gauge to read correct but some don't also.

 

I thought the Vr6 MFA came from the ECU? I have mine unplugged as obviously there is no where to plug it in now.