Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

cheers but sadly its not my problem, I double checked the wires today and I made no mistakes with the pedal wire or vss wire, although that would explain how 20vtvw lost his pedal as the blue/white pedal wire is directly above the blue/white vss wire so could be easily mistaken, only thing different is the vss has a slightly thicker blue strip, so my problem is either a duff pedal or the wiring from ecu to pedal has been crossed at some point, I would like to remove my harness and run through the pedal wires but I think to save time its easier to identify them at the T121 ecu plug and then chop them there and rejoin them routing them through the old accelerator cable hole, that way I know wire for wire is 100% sound even though I was sure they were in the first place, thanks guys

 

 

looking through etka on the dbw pedals the difference between the mk4 models seems to be automatic,diesel and petrol,

 

the pedal for manual petrol is 1J2 721 503 J

Edited June 26, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[taks 10]

Kevin thanks

 

It is a BFH

 

I checked my engine timing by going to block 91 on check it was at 0.0 degrees

http://audisrs.com/archive/cam-timing-checking-with-vag-com__o_t__t_21169.html

 

 

Clutch switch operation: Block 66

On:100

Brake switch operation: Block 66

On:011

Timing chain stretch: 208 and 209: Although my chains are spanking new it is showing -1 and -4, within in tolerance but was hoping for a 0.0

 

And VSS going from the gearbox to pin 54 then to the clocks works fine.

 

New issue I have corrado clocks and and a golf vr6 low pressure sender connected and it is triggering the buzzer. I turn the ignition into position 2 and the light is flashing, start the the car and the light extinguishes. Lightly rev and its ok, but when I boot it- It triggers. Do you think there is a compatibility issue between the corrado vr6 clocks and the golf vr6 sensor. I have screwed it into the top of the r32 BFH oil filter housing.

Also I have a mocal oil cooler..... any ideas?

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

I used vr6 oil pressure sensors, not sure if theres a compatability problem, good to hear your vss is ok,

 

just pulled the dbw pedal out and now noticed that the number from etka doesn't match the pedal I was given!

I specifically told the breakers that I brought my BDE wiring harness from that I want the same pedal from the same car as my wiring harness! the number I have on this dbw is 1J27 215 03C ,I cannot find this exact pedal on etka under golf4motion, its not listed here either

http://seekpart24.com/vw/golf-iv-variant-1j5-99/2-8-v6-4motion-10718/accelerator-pedal-102801

if anybody can confirm that theres a compatability issue please let me know, otherwise im going to assume its the pedal at fault all this time! strange why its taken so long to appear at fault though.

 

well according to one of the compatability drop down menus on an ebay listing for my pedal , it is not compatable with the 2.8 v6 4motion!!

Edited June 26, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[taks 10]

Hopefully I worked out the oil issue. I think when my oil stat opened it dropped the oil level hence the issues with pressure. Fingers crossed topping that above the max level ever so slightly will cure that.

 

From what I understand all petrol DBW pedals operate the same in the mk4.

I don't think matching pedal and ecu is really critical. I am using a mk4 r32 ecu (CP) with a BDE pedal loom, Then a pit of jiggery pokery into a mk5 throttle plug and it terminates on a mk5 dsg pedal. It works fine.

 

I should have noted the measuring block I used to check its operation going from 0-100% through the pedal motion

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You'll never get 0.0 cam timing in blocks 208 and 209. I've done the chains on 2 now and they both ended up at -3 and -1 with 100% c0ck on mechanical timing. 2 other people I know of got the same. The intake VVT is never fully off anyway, so being at 0.0 statically isn't critical.

 

Block 91 in that link is for the Audi V6 so I'm not sure how relevant that is to the R32 tbh.

 

Did you fit both oil pressure senders to the R32 filter housing?

 

With pedals, diesel has different pots in it and automatic has a kick down switch and yep, a 4Motion pedal will work with any MK4 engine and MK4 and MK5 throttles. A MK4 pedal doesn't work on a MK5 engine.

[taks 10]

Can't see why a mk4 pedal wouldn't work with a mk5. I have a mk5 pedal working with a mk4.

 

The dsg pedal switch on the mk5 pedal is a dumb plunger. There is no wiring into it. You get 100% whilst resting on it and nothing more when you depress it. I checked it also by sticking my head into the 2012 TT i have with dsg and it is the same.

 

Thank you for your info on the chains. It was the first I had done and I was very paranoid :-)

The block 91 I will research more to gauge it's relevance but I was so happy with everything working and when I got a desired output from it, it gave me the ability to keep my one man Mexican wave going for longer.

 

I only had two holes in the r32 oil housing (Unless there is another I have missed?) So I installed low pressure (brown sensor) and temp, leaving high pressure out. It's the only thing right now that is playing on my mind whilst stuck at the office

[Kevin Bacon 5]

MK5 pedal works with a MK4 but not the other way round. I know this because the MK5 ECU in my Corrado totally rejected the signal from my 4Motion pedal ;)

 

Good info on the DSG pedal.

 

The VR6 clocks need to see both pressure sensors. If there is a difference across the two sensors, it thinks the pressure has dropped and throws the buzzer into life. What I did was omit the temp sender (because I know R32 oil temp doesn't get hot enough to worry about from seeing it in a mate's MK5, sits at 95 most of the time) and used both ports in the filter housing for the pressure sensors.

 

But as I don't like functions that don't work, I did try a t piece for the oil temp sender and I was getting silly low readings, but at least the MFA didn't display --- :)

 

If I kept the car, I was going to shift the redundant oil condition sensor from the sump and replace it with a plate to house the oil temp sensor and get a more accurate reading.

Edited June 27, 2013 by Kevin Bacon

[taks 10]

Brilliant!

I will back the temp sender out and put the black high pressure sensor in attaching the yellow wire.

 

I bought a mocal inline connector (to or from the sandwich plate) which has a hole in it. I will just pop it in there. I just really want to keep an eye on the temps as this is to be a track car

 

Will the high pressure sensor be ok side on?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah it'll be fine side on. I had no problems with that on mine!

 

If it's a track car, then yeah it might be worth hooking up the temp sensor somewhere then!

 

Another idea I had was to tap another M10x1 hole in the filter housing for the temp sender. As it's such an old design of sensor (and very slow!), I think it being so far away from the housing in a t-peice skewed the readings too much.

[J.C 10]

I got the car back yesterday after 24v conversion

a couple of questions

previous owner (20vtvw) fitted the oil temp sensor and oil is running at 130 degrees after warming up engine then 10-15mins of spirited driving, my old vR6 never got that hot, is this normal

also, it's got a good amount of pull lower down the rev range(like I expected) compared to the VR6 but semms to hesitate a bit at around 4K and above, (doesn't pull like the vr6 used to)

I've checked that the intake flap opens, filming it, it seems to open at 3500-4000,

At the moment I've got no air filter (waiting for intake hose) so I know that may effect the hesitation but oil temp???

any ideas

any ideas

 

---------- Post added at 12:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:49 PM ----------

 

I got the car back yesterday after 24v conversion

a couple of questions

previous owner (20vtvw) fitted the oil temp sensor and oil is running at 130 degrees after warming up engine then 10-15mins of spirited driving, my old vR6 never got that hot, is this normal

also, it's got a good amount of pull lower down the rev range(like I expected) compared to the VR6 but semms to hesitate a bit at around 4K and above, (doesn't pull like the vr6 used to)

I've checked that the intake flap opens, filming it, it seems to open at 3500-4000,

At the moment I've got no air filter (waiting for intake hose) so I know that may effect the hesitation but oil temp???

any ideas

any ideas

[taks 10]

130 degrees!! too hot especially for 24v

What engine code is the 24v?

 

What oil cooler system has been installed?

 

Where is the temp sensor located?

 

Have you vagcom? if so what were the faults?

[J.C 10]

it's an AUE

Don't know what cooler system, My mate put in what I bought off 20vtvw

he's put the temp sensor in the same place as the 12V VR6

Havent vagcom

130 degrees!! too hot especially for 24v

What engine code is the 24v?

 

What oil cooler system has been installed?

 

Where is the temp sensor located?

 

Have you vagcom? if so what were the faults?

[taks 10]

have they used the 12v oil filter housing? and 12v oil to water cooling exchange unit?

[J.C 10]

to be honest, I don't know

have they used the 12v oil filter housing? and 12v oil to water cooling exchange unit?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Should be no need to swap over the oil cooling system, the AUE oil cooler fits happily. The only time you have issues are when you use the R32 oil cooler. I'd suggest you change the temp sensors. It is probably working well, your sensor may just be past it's best.

 

To tell the difference, the 24v cooler sticks out of the engine above right of the filter housing, the 12v sits directly on the engine.

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

possibly the oil temp sender is telling porky pies , either that or its wired up wrong, hesitation could be coil pack? also what was it like starting from cold or hot? possibly coolant temp sender for ecu causing a running issue? get vcds from ebay and your be able to scan for logged faults from your laptop and your also see what temp reading the ecu is receiving in relation to what your temp gauge is saying,

[taks 10]

Maybe 20vtvw can answer a few of the questions.....

New oil sensor from GSF- they got them in stock. VAG do not have them at the moment

Edited June 28, 2013 by taks

[J.C 10]

Should be no need to swap over the oil cooling system, the AUE oil cooler fits happily. The only time you have issues are when you use the R32 oil cooler. I'd suggest you change the temp sensors. It is probably working well, your sensor may just be past it's best.

 

To tell the difference, the 24v cooler sticks out of the engine above right of the filter housing, the 12v sits directly on the engine.

 

The cooler is a little square box with 2 hoses going to it?

if so this is on the rigth hnd side of the filter

the hoses go into the block

certainly feels hot in there

[J.C 10]

New oil sensor from GSF- they got them in stock.

I've looked, have you a link?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

The cooler is a little square box with 2 hoses going to it?

if so this is on the rigth hnd side of the filter

the hoses go into the block

certainly feels hot in there

 

Spot on mate! The coolers are normally pretty efficient.

[J.C 10]

Spot on mate! The coolers are normally pretty efficient.

 

seems like this one isn't

I might take the oil temp sensor off my old engine, at least that will give me a reference point

 

---------- Post added at 10:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:35 PM ----------

 

On another issue(if you don't mind)

the engine mounts which came with the engine put it on a slant, my mate decided to cut the mounts down even more than 20vtvw did but I can feel every vibration of the engine,

I checked the gap and there seems to be at least an inch (25mm for the youngsters) between the oil cap and the bonnet bracing

 

I'm not going to run the big square cover and don't want to hack the bonnet about, so if I get new mounts, does anyone know how much (if any) to take off each mount

I'm old and not getting any younger and want a nice smooth ride

Thanks in advance

STeve

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

You don't need to hack anything from the front or gearbox mounts and 15mm from the rear engine mount should be plenty!

[taks 10]

I've looked, have you a link?

They don't have them listed. But if quote them this part number they can find you one: 1H0 919 563

[J.C 10]

Thanks Taks, Sean and vw owner85

gives me things to play with next week,

[taks 10]

Cool we will pick this up then. Have you any one near you with a copy of VAGCOM to help? The output(s) from that will really help to troubleshoot the lack of power at the top end (if it's not the high temps and no air filter like you say)