Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[taks 10]

no not that I know of, like I say the engines running sweat , but due to our roads in Guernsey I cannot drive it like I stole it , I value my license , our max limit sadly is 35mph!! so I cant really give it a proper drive but the engine pulls very strong from 1st 2nd and 3rd!! and gives me no indication that anything else is wrong, I will check in vcds but not really sure what im looking for , does the engine need to be running ? so basically I might have to hook up a mk4 clutch switch and mk4 brake switch and wire them as above? also if there was a problem with the lack of either clutch or brake switch wouldn't it log faults for these?

 

Hiya

The engine does not need to be running. When you look at block 66 there are a load of 00000000's

If running the clutch switch; when you press the pedal down you will see an output of 0000000100

When you press the brake (If the 4 wire brake switch was installed you would see 000000000011

 

Scenarios:

1. If you have 000000000000111 That means the ECU thinks you have the clutch and brake pedals engaged. If it does then there is definite improvements coming your way by rectifying this

2. If you have 000000000000's then pin 55,56,39 have been given 12v somewhere in you wiring or possibly as you say you don't need it (but I doubt it as the car I was in had both a clutch and a 4 post brake switch).

 

I am sorry I have not looked at the AUE, but I will google it when I get out of this meeting

 

---------- Post added at 11:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 AM ----------

 

Ok when I am doing a parts check i can find listing for the AUE clutch switch (same as the BDE and the BFH)

But someone else may need to confirm as I have not seen it with my own eyes......

 

Also thanks Kevin..... The plumbing in of the second oil pressure sensor got my buzzer to stay quiet

Temp sensor moved to a mocal inline adaptor after retapping to m10x1

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

Regarding the VSS and Accelerator pedal wires

The confusion comes with the reading of the colours of the wire(s)

The pedal wire is white/blue

the VSS wire is Blue/white

the first colour being the main (thick stripe)colour and the second colour being the stripe(thin stripe)

and yes 20vtvw did cut the pedal wire,

 

thanks for the confirmation on that, the only reason I was suspecting the vss was to blame with my pedal fault was because of his going dead.. are you saying that when you call out wiring colours that you should say the main colour first? followed by the thinner colour? I had no idea , to me blue/white is white/blue , I allways check where the wire actually goes, to confirm its the right one, never once relied on colour alone..

 

The ECU needs to see the brake pedal switch to disengage the Haldex but I don't know what your ECU man did to code this out. I believe the ME7 is as simple as changing a byte to tell it has the function or not, but in many cases the ECU still needs to 'see' a respective relay (across the trigger side) for the function or it doesn't like it. For instance, if you don't have the SAI relay connected, you don't get any long term lambda trims.

 

3.2s also need things like chassis angle sensors (Xenon alignment) and steering wheel angle (ESP) coding out.

 

ah right united motorsports might of allowed for the brake switch, ill check in vcds with what taks has written {thanks btw} and see what it says, im assumeing wiring in the brake and clutch switch is fairly straight forward, install switchs to pedal box , wire the pins to ecu as mentioned and hook up certain pins to earth and job done ?

[taks 10]

Clutch Switch

1 - to ECU Pin 39

2 - ignition live feed ( I used the yellow black wires that go behind the dash)

 

Brake switch:

1 - Permanent live (CE2 Block E pin 4)

2 - Ignition live (same as clutch)

3 - To ECU pin 55

4 - To ECU pin 56 and brake lights (CE2 Block E pin 3 (Red/Yellow))

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

cheers dude, I tried looking in vcds this after noon but the version I have doesn't allow me to do so :(

[J.C 10]

are you saying that when you call out wiring colours that you should say the main colour first? followed by the thinner colour? I had no idea , to me blue/white is white/blue , I allways check where the wire actually goes, to confirm its the right one, never once relied on colour alone..

 

 

 

Yes, That way there are twice as many different wires, but you're right, with electrics it's always best to check, double check and check again,

once the smoke is out, it's very hard to put it back in

[aminder 0]

Clutch Switch

1 - to ECU Pin 39

2 - ignition live feed ( I used the yellow black wires that go behind the dash)

 

Brake switch:

1 - Permanent live (CE2 Block E pin 4)

2 - Ignition live (same as clutch)

3 - To ECU pin 55

4 - To ECU pin 56 and brake lights (CE2 Block E pin 3 (Red/Yellow))

 

Great info on this thread - I'm going to be wiring in my R32 once I've mounted up my DBW pedal and this thread is really going to come in handy.

[J.C 10]

Great news, I think I've found why my oil was overheating,,,, It wasn't,

I stuck a thermo probe down the dipstick til it got in the oil, idled the engine until fan cycled on/off a good half dozen times, oil must have been cycled around the block a few times, MFA display read 100 degrees, my multimeter with the probe read 75 degrees, I'm presuming that there would not be a 25 degree difference between the locations, given 20vtvw didn't get over 102degrees with the SAME sensor there must be a difference with our wiring/earth/power supply or MFA compatibility problem,

Oh and I boiled the temp sensor in water and it read 97 degrees (so a few degrees out)

Might just check the wiring and if it turns out to be a compatibilty problem, I'll just rig up a calibration pot in line.

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Glad you kind of solved the problem. I would have been surprised if the oil was actually that hot! The 12v oil coolers have been known to fail but i've not yet heard of a 24v cooler failing.

[Dox 22]

I fitted a gauge sender in the sump plug in one of my previous cars for comparrison purposes.

[J.C 10]

Regarding the clutch and brake pedal inputs,

I found this http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?255211-Clutch-pedal-switch-in-engine-conversions

interesting read as I've got mine performing quite well but it "hangs" onto the revs when changing gear

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

got myself a clutch switch, the exact same as this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-Seat-MK4-Golf-clutch-pedal-switch-1J0-927-189-1J0927189-/271231019665?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+IV&hash=item3f26a0ea91

 

it looks like it has 4 pins but only the two middles ones are there to use {they must use the same body as the brake switch}, the pins are still numbered 1-4 though, so basically the 2 pins I have are 2 and 3 {not 1 and 2} , im guessing it doesn't matter which pin I put ign live and ecu pin 39 too as its just a switch right?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

My clutch switch is a 2 pin job removed from my '00 donor 4mo. You're right, it's just a switch so wire it up how you like!

[J.C 10]

Wired up the clutch and brake switches and what a difference, only took it around the block but no more reving between gears, Can't wait to drive it tomorroew

nearly ready for a remap

For the brake lights ant terminal 56 on ECU, there is a spare connector on the end of a black/red wire connected to fusebox (E/3)

took ignition live from (2 pin) connector with black/yellow wire connected to A1/7

if you havent got the 4 pin brake switch connector, you can use 2x standard speaker connectors, just shave off a tiny amount of a lip by the wires and super gglue them togetther, then super glue thin strips of plastic to the side of the (new) 4 pin plug to act as locators, so the plug only goes in one way

[taks 10]

Wired up the clutch and brake switches and what a difference, only took it around the block but no more reving between gears, Can't wait to drive it tomorroew

nearly ready for a remap

For the brake lights ant terminal 56 on ECU, there is a spare connector on the end of a black/red wire connected to fusebox (E/3)

took ignition live from (2 pin) connector with black/yellow wire connected to A1/7

if you havent got the 4 pin brake switch connector, you can use 2x standard speaker connectors, just shave off a tiny amount of a lip by the wires and super gglue them togetther, then super glue thin strips of plastic to the side of the (new) 4 pin plug to act as locators, so the plug only goes in one way

 

 

Nice! did you ever get the vagcom to read block 66?

[J.C 10]

Nice! did you ever get the vagcom to read block 66?

 

No, My VAGcom doesn't work,

I just made the system as VW engineered it,

re did my rear mount,

I think the mechanic got one of te pulleys hung up on the chassis, and kept on cutting down the mount until there was no rubber between top and bottom plates, now it's nice and smooth,

next is the gearbox, got to decide between the (installed) V5 (3.938 FDR) or the original VR6 (3.389 FDR) and then install the .717 5th gear

[Fanjita 1]

Ok guys, got a problem

 

Lambdas are working now, looks to be fully adaptive (finally). Engine works really well, apart from when slowing down on the overrun. As it drops below 2000 rpm and down to about 1800, there is a juddering felt almost like a hiccup. It's not massive but enough to annoy me, it feels less like mechanical and more like fuelling. Can't work out what though!

 

Fuel pressure is set to 4 bar with no vacuum feed, and it's confirmed at that.

 

Any ideas where to start?

James

Edited July 9, 2013 by Fanjita

[J.C 10]

I Vagcom'd my C today, there was a lot of codes asscociated with the swap except for one,

got a code for Knock sensor 2 signal too low, looked into it and the knock sensor wiring was wired into the Blue coolant sensor????????????

Just got to sort that out ,

booked into AMD in Essex next Tuesday for a remap,

Off to the breakers tommorrow to raid semi modern VAG cars

One other point, is it critical to have both solenoids for the variable intake flap connected as there seems to be wiring missing from the solenoid nearest the alterator, I have also relocated the solenoid to beside the fuel pressure regulator

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

The solenoid closest to the alternator is for the SAI. Ignore it.

[J.C 10]

The solenoid closest to the alternator is for the SAI. Ignore it.

 

so just to confirm,

the vacuum comes from the intake, goes to the fuel regulator, T's off to the vacuum check valve, then onto the vacuum resevoir and solenoid which controls the variable flap,

I hope this makes sense??/

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

No vacuum reservoir on my AUE.

 

Goes from rear of intake manifold, along to the fuel regulator tee off and then down to the solenoid which then controls the variable flap.

 

---------- Post added at 11:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:58 PM ----------

 

No check valve from memory but I'll check tomorrow.

[taks 10]

Ok guys, got a problem

 

Lambdas are working now, looks to be fully adaptive (finally). Engine works really well, apart from when slowing down on the overrun. As it drops below 2000 rpm and down to about 1800, there is a juddering felt almost like a hiccup. It's not massive but enough to annoy me, it feels less like mechanical and more like fuelling. Can't work out what though!

 

Fuel pressure is set to 4 bar with no vacuum feed, and it's confirmed at that.

 

Any ideas where to start?

James

 

Just between those rpm's in any gear?

 

Or just whilst coasting down?

 

---------- Post added at 12:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 AM ----------

 

so just to confirm,

the vacuum comes from the intake, goes to the fuel regulator, T's off to the vacuum check valve, then onto the vacuum resevoir and solenoid which controls the variable flap,

I hope this makes sense??/

 

Sounds correct, front ends on now so cant take a snap. Is your plunger doing it's thing?

[J.C 10]

No vacuum reservoir on my AUE.

 

Goes from rear of intake manifold, along to the fuel regulator tee off and then down to the solenoid which then controls the variable flap.

 

---------- Post added at 11:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:58 PM ----------

 

 

No check valve from memory but I'll check tomorrow.

 

On mine there is a black and white check valve connected to a "T" piece, tucked under the intake manifold, one branch of the "T" piece goes to the solenoid, the other goes in the direction of the block to what I presumed to be the resevoir.

 

---------- Post added at 6:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 6:30 AM ----------

 

 

[/color]

 

Sounds correct, front ends on now so cant take a snap. Is your plunger doing it's thing?

Yes it was until I broke the solenoid mounting tabs trying to disconnect the plugs, so hence why I've mounted it by the fuel regulator, plus I kinda like easy access to important parts

[Fanjita 1]

Just between those rpm's in any gear?

 

Or just whilst coasting down?

 

Just between those RPMs and only whilst in gear using the engine to slow down (overrun). Any gear does it.

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Just checked mine, that check valve is indeed there!

[J.C 10]

WHAT A DIFFERENCE

IT'S AWSOME!!!!

Went to the breakers and got a connector for the knock sensor,

fitted it and it now goes like a dream(a real smooooth one at that!!!!)

remap on Tuesday,

Bug Jam next weekend,